I wouldn’t fancy full crimp max hangs myself. Would rather bone up on the board if needed to improve full crimp.
Or the 8 or 10mm micros might be ok. Certainly preferable to hanging a load of weight off you and boning.
Have personally always found half crimp and open hand the best means of training contact strength on things like a beast maker/small campus rung etc. Having some well crafted very thin holds allows you to train full crimp in a controlled fashion.
Strengthening that position in a controlled manner can only be good for it, rather than only unleashing it in extremis on a cold wet crag.
are there some problems where you have to crimp, is this something that really comes in at the higher grades?
Crimping allows you to move further up past the hold - as the focus of the pressure is at the very back of the hold rather than towards the lip.
Good thread this. Very useful. Personally I never train full crimp or even half crimp. Everything on the fingerboard is open. I try to do some of the easier hangs half crimp but am not very disciplined about it. Then when I’m outside I open hand everything still. Pretty much never crimp. Even the crimp on my project I open hand.