[dave]

which fin?

[Graeme]

I believe they mean the keel.

[dave]

ah

[jonP]

Speaking of OTE, I seem to remember dire predictions from some people that the problems featured in their 'classic problems' series would receive a huge amount of traffic and get trashed quickly.  Demon Wall Roof & Ben's Groove at Caley don't seem to have suffered yet - how about the other problems that have been featured?

[Big Frank]

Speaking of OTE, I seem to remember dire predictions from some people that the problems featured in their 'classic problems' series would receive a huge amount of traffic and get trashed quickly.  Demon Wall Roof & Ben's Groove at Caley don't seem to have suffered yet - how about the other problems that have been featured?

I suspect that is mainly due to the fact that OTE is the monthly tome of the clang and dangle brigade.

[Jim]

My subscription must have run out ages ago, but lo and behold another copy turns up through the letterbox t'other day. Recon they will keep sending them to me for free (prob the only way to keep the reader numbers up)

[Nigel]

Demon Wall Roof & Ben's Groove at Caley don't seem to have suffered yet - how about the other problems that have been featured?

Well Angel Deelite hasn't got trashed yet.

[dave]

i doubt tierdrop or crescent arete have a sheen of pollish yet.

[Scouse D]

crescent arete was already polished especially on the lower section but it aint bad.

[dave]

its not pollished at all, just well used. pollished holds look glassy, like crack n corner.

[Scouse D]

The first low smears are polished and that's FACT

[dave]

you spent like a year climbing on the roadside face, and you're telling me crescent arete is polished? i recon you need to get out the sheet music and start playing the real waltz. :321:

[Stubbs]

Its nice to see that the Fin is included in the OTE 'How to climb rock if you are stupid' series.

V8+ eh?  Stupid ole me had been using my right hand in the chip.  That must be worth more surely :roll:

Other comments on the beta for the Keel in OTE?

i thought it was rather an example of strong people doing easier problems not in the easiest manner (as mentioned before re: pebble wall). i think that left hand on fin, right hand on chip and match is the easiest. now if i could only do all the  moves one after another........

[Teaboy]

I believe they mean the keel.

i was wondering about this, have they just got the name wrong or has it been changed? Also did Andy Swan do the FA as at the time I remeber the mags reporting it as Olly Wright.

[dave]

didn't john dunne have a claim in as the FA of t'keel?

P.S. is the chip in the keel anchient, or from a more recent era?

[Stubbs]

Looks ancient - think it was to aid easy ascent of the front of the virgin - think the ground in front was probably a lot higher when it was done. what about the beta?

[dave]

the beta was bollocks. no-one doing it for the first time would do it like that. It'd be like me writing beta for the buckstone dyno and making out that going with your left hand is easiest.

beta for keel is always get chip wi righthand, right toe in roof slot, left heel on keel, match chip, get little crimpable slope up right for righthand, then sap R for pocket.

[Stubbs]

Why publish such bollocks beta then? Surely someone checked it and found it to be incorrect, assuming that someone at OTE has done The Keel?

[dave]

dunno - i mean of course that beta probably does work, its just not going to be the way that most people are going to find best when they've never done it before. remember that steve D is quite tall isn't he, so that might account for some of it. similarly the dalvinder beta for DWR looked very specific to a short person. i suppose its 6 of one and half a dozen of the other.

[Fingers of a Martyr]

similarly the dalvinder beta for DWR looked very specific to a short person. i suppose its 6 of one and half a dozen of the other.

quite a few problems in that series had both 'short person' and 'tall person' beta.

[Ste]

Andy named the problem 'the fin' after making the first ascent.

[Dutch Master Killa]

Dave's beta is def the way although i've not done it yet.  Going for the record of hitting the pocket most times without actually doing the problem   However i hook my toe under the keel not my heel- dunt think it makes any difference though.

[Johnny Brown]

Dave is right on the money with that beta. Everyone I've seen does it that way. What you do after matching the chip can vary though - I go right to the bulb hold, then bring the feet out, then slap the pocket.

However do seem to remember the goosecreature telling me that it was originally done going right hand keel then left hand chip. I guess its fairly usual for easier sequences to be found as time goes on...

[account_inactive]

Whats all this girly intermediate stuff before the pocket :D

[Bonjoy]

Surely a Goosecreature such as this

would employ the power of flight to overide any roof based technical difficulties?! :roll: