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Demon Wall Roof, Almscliff (Read 18577 times)

jonP

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#75 Demon Wall Roof, Almscliff
October 13, 2004, 09:37:28 am
Quote from: "Ru"
top it out.


What, you mean you have to top out?  Sounds more like mountaineering than bouldering to me.

dave

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#76 Demon Wall Roof, Almscliff
October 13, 2004, 09:38:22 am
couldn't the really short do a french start to the chip and then mantle it?

jonP

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#77 Demon Wall Roof, Almscliff
October 13, 2004, 09:39:49 am
Quote from: "Pantontino"
Just out of curiosity, what is the consensus modern grade for this? Presumably it has dropped to something ridiculous like V7 in these revisionist times.


Top-end V6, max.  It's nowhere near as hard as established V7s such as Lager Lager Lager at Earl or Jason's Roof at Crookrise.

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#78 Demon Wall Roof, Almscliff
October 13, 2004, 11:04:58 am
Quote from: "Ru"
Tiny mutant method (pretty obvious really):

Share break, right hand pocket, left hand keel, feet half way up arete, go right hand to lip below the chip, shuffle feet as high as possible on the back wall go again to the chip, right foot jam in pocket, match chip, take your right hand off, lock off chip, turn and wave at the crowd, one arm slowly to the pocket, one last wave, top it out.

 Or alternatively stand at the bottom waving a feather in the air until a gust of wind whips you off your feet and deposits you neatly onto the top of the boulder :wink: .

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#79 Demon Wall Roof, Almscliff
October 13, 2004, 11:33:43 am
i had a look in the yorkhamptonshire grittlestone blundering guide and the keel is V10. so there.

dave

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#80 Demon Wall Roof, Almscliff
October 13, 2004, 11:46:53 am
amazes me that most people are voting for V10 on yorks.com. Looks like me and cofe got our first 7c+ years ago, before we'd really done 7b+. wheres our medals?

jonP

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#81 Demon Wall Roof, Almscliff
October 13, 2004, 11:55:52 am
Quote from: "dave"
amazes me that most people are voting for V10 on yorks.com.


Actually most votes (21 out of 38) are for V8 or V9, with standard V9 as the consensus.  The comments seem to back this up.

AndyR

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#82 Demon Wall Roof, Almscliff
October 13, 2004, 11:59:43 am
Quote from: "jonP"
Quote from: "Pantontino"
Just out of curiosity, what is the consensus modern grade for this? Presumably it has dropped to something ridiculous like V7 in these revisionist times.


Top-end V6, max.  It's nowhere near as hard as established V7s such as Lager Lager Lager at Earl or Jason's Roof at Crookrise.


Jesus, getting soft in your old age P  :D

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#83 Demon Wall Roof, Almscliff
October 13, 2004, 12:01:50 pm
Quote from: "dave"
amazes me that most people are voting for V10 on yorks.com. Looks like me and cofe got our first 7c+ years ago, before we'd really done 7b+. wheres our medals?


But, by all accounts, you're quite lanky, so you can claim a V4 tick (and that's being generous).

dave

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#84 Demon Wall Roof, Almscliff
October 13, 2004, 12:04:36 pm
Quote from: "jonP"
Quote from: "dave"
amazes me that most people are voting for V10 on yorks.com.


Actually most votes (21 out of 38) are for V8 or V9, with standard V9 as the consensus.  The comments seem to back this up.


yeah but the biggest column is still saying V10.

I'm not argueing that its not V8 or owt, just amazed so many are saying V10  :shock:

cofe

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#85 Demon Wall Roof, Almscliff
October 13, 2004, 12:17:34 pm
its definitely v10.

dave

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#86 Demon Wall Roof, Almscliff
October 13, 2004, 12:20:28 pm
Quote from: "AndyR"
But, by all accounts, you're quite lanky, so you can claim a V4 tick (and that's being generous).


and a soft V4 at that.

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#87 Demon Wall Roof, Almscliff
October 13, 2004, 01:11:23 pm
I think most of those v10 votes are for a Yorkshire v10 - ie. Font 7C. There is no way anyone would suggest the Keel to be 7C+, that would be madness. I think it's a good 7B+, about as hard as Blockbuster at Caley or Magic Bus in Font, both pretty average 7B+'s

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#88 Demon Wall Roof, Almscliff
October 13, 2004, 01:17:05 pm
I'm with the 7b+ camp on this one.

jonP

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#89 Demon Wall Roof, Almscliff
October 13, 2004, 01:32:28 pm
Perhaps people just see the V10 grade in the guide and don't want to reduce it to a mere V9.  But the real question is: is it really British 6c or just sustained 6b?  I'm sure we're all fascinated by this question.

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#90 Demon Wall Roof, Almscliff
October 13, 2004, 01:54:32 pm
i reckon it's solid v10. mos def.

 

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