[jonP]

What are the consensus grades for the various Demon Wall Roof Problems - Stu's Roof, Demon Wall Roof, the DWR eliminate, Exorcist (short & long)?  Are there any other worthwhile eliminates/variations on this bit of rock?

[hongkongstuey]

the normal way feels about V6 - it's certainly a bit of a gift at V7

the others are all too damn hard for a punter like me

[account_inactive]

Demon Roof is probs V7 for the 1st time you do it, but only V6 afterwards
Dolphin Belly ting is harder I think :roll:
Stu's roof is probably more like V10
The Keel is probs V9 to do and then V8 to repeat
Jess's roof is probs V9 an all

[dave]

for me they felt like maybe DWR V6 DBS V4/5. long time since i did em though.

thats going on the basis we're often reminded that B6=V4. Thus hot tip for you guys visitin  the peak is rollin pat, eagle tor, V4.

[a dense loner]

yeah right

[squeek]

Are there any other worthwhile eliminates/variations on this bit of rock?

I was told DBS without the arete is very good.

[Graeme]

I think saying DBS is V4/5 is a bit unfair, certainly no more than V5, not done DWr but doesn't feel too hard, when I've been on it prob V6?

[jonP]

Demon Wall Roof seems a lot harder than the other V6's at Almscliff, but maybe they're V5.

Anybody done the harder problems?

[Ru]

Demon wall roof easiest way - 6c+
Demon wall roof missing out break and going for big ear up right, 7b/7b+
Demon wall roof missing break and going up left 7c

Stu's Roof the proper way from the back 7c+
Stu's Roof the easy way from the undercut dish under the roof  to the left, 7b+
Demon wall roof linked to stu's roof, 7b+

Dolphin Belly slap 6c+

The Exorcist short (Dolphin belly slap,  trav lip left into Demon wall roof left hand exit, easy 8a.

The exorcist long (as above into stu's roof) hard 8a, but this is the only one I've not done.

[jonP]

Very comprehensive - thanks!  6c+ seems a bit harsh for the normal DWR though!

[Pantontino]

I think the problem is that DWR is very height dependant (okay, I realise that Ru is not exactly a yard dog, but he is very strong). For someone my height (6 ft) it feels around V5/6. I certainly find it a lot easier to do than the nearby Si's Arete, even since this got easier when the left foothold changed.

I would put DWR in as a V6 and DBS as top end V5.

[webbo]

i feel the problem is that you've got v10 climbers grading what is a warm up for them. :wink:

[Jim]

thats going on the basis we're often reminded that B6=V4. Thus hot tip for you guys visitin  the peak is rollin pat, eagle tor, V4.

off topic but rollin pat is a lot harder than V4 for me, felt like at least 7b when I did it.
not done any of these problems at almsclif although I would have thought DWR would be easier for shorties when putting the heel in the roof

[dave]

off topic but rollin pat is a lot harder than V4 for me, felt like at least 7b when I did it.

I'm-a hearin' you on FM.

[webbo]

i reckon that finding the heel hook in the roof is a similar task to finding noah's ark

[Bonjoy]

thats going on the basis we're often reminded that B6=V4. Thus hot tip for you guys visitin  the peak is rollin pat, eagle tor, V4.

off topic but rollin pat is a lot harder than V4 for me, felt like at least 7b when I did it.
not done any of these problems at almsclif although I would have thought DWR would be easier for shorties when putting the heel in the roof

 The medium to tall can do it using a right foot toehook which is much easier than having to use the painfull heel-toe thing. I'd say DWR was low V6/7a and DBS was standard V5/6c+ and as for Rollin pat solid V6/7a maybe V7 at a push.

[fingermouse]

Demon wall roof easiest way - 6c+.

Seems fair.  This didn't feel harder than say 'le toit de cul de chien'.  I always thought that V7 was way too high for this problem.  But then I can use the toe hook to gain the holds on the lip.

[jonP]

This didn't feel harder than say 'le toit de cul de chien'.

To me it felt harder than any 7a I've done in Font (which to be fair isn't that many), and a lot harder than any V6 I've done in Bishop (again, not many!).    I don't think people will ever agree on the grade of DWR.

[Kim]

I'd go V5 for dolphin belly slap which i find ok and V7 for demon wall roof which i can't do for love nor money...

[webbo]

i reckon v6 for dbs and v7 for dr however i'm a bit of a short arse.5'8" so i can't reach with the toe hook and as i might have mentioned earlier i can't find the heel hook.

[Stu Littlefair]

How gutted am I that I missed this thread. I've been waiting for someone to ask me about pointless eliminates on DWR since I was 11.

Ru's got the grades mostly sorted. However....

The left-hand finish to DWR doesn't allow the big sloper which is sort-of part of the break. The little sloper right of the ear is in. I also think this is hard (read 7c+). It's probably 7b+ with the big sloper in. Also, I think the long version of the exorcist is the easier of the two, because it avoids this finish. And it's the best problem here. DWR is a funny problem, because if you're short and have fat feet it's desperate. Otherwise it's OK.

Of course, all these problems are eliminate, but there are eliminate variations on them as well (god - I love almscliffe!). The best amongst these are:

a) DBS without the arete, at around 7c+.
b) Using the roof hold on DBS to press into DWR, finishing up eliminate of your choice.
c) DWR, left hand finish, but without the long flat, big crimp round the lip. Use myriad tinies
     instead. F7c+/8a
d) As above, but swing left into stu's roof finish. Keep off that big hold now! 7c
e) DWR into finish of DBS (reversing exorcist). 7b
f) The traverse of the break, at the same height as the little ear on DWR. Start in DBS, finish
    up birds nest eliminate... old skool 6c
g) from the lip holds on DWR to the break 7a+

have fun!!!

[BoulderHog]

DBS about Font 6C+. DWR is 7a+, easy once you have a technique down. Stu's roof from the back, straight out over the lip to the rock over is 7c+, got 8a but it probably isn't that hard - not sure about the left finish, seemed a bit crap to me so didn't bother.  The left hand finish to DWR with or without the sloper at the left of the break is on the easy end of 7C, that sloper's so polished I find it easier to skip it and just use the ear anyway. Quite height dependent though.


How hard do people think pebble wall is? I reckon 7a with the pebbles, 7a+ without (using a dyno type thing).

[jonP]

have fun!!!

There's enough there to keep most people going for a lifetime!

I used to hate this bit of rock, until I got the DWR heel/toe to work, and I realised I could actually pull on the crimps above the roof.  Now it feels like there's a wealth of possibilites.

How hard do people think pebble wall is?

That's another tricky one to grade.  Given V5 in the guide, most people to seem to think it's desperate for the grade, but I bet most people don't know the trick. Might be worth V6 though.

[Fiend]

How hard do people think pebble wall is?


That's another tricky one to grade. Given V5 in the guide, most people to seem to think it's desperate for the grade, but I bet most people don't know the trick. Might be worth V6 though.

It's one of those that brings in the full weight of the "grade is for the easiest sequence" concept, isn't it. I.e. really tricky to figure out and really easy once you know how. In my limited experience (which admittedly does include a fair amount of failing on V5s), I'd say, errr, V5.

[account_inactive]

Its nice to see that the Fin is included in the OTE 'How to climb rock if you are stupid' series.

V8+ eh?  Stupid ole me had been using my right hand in the chip.  That must be worth more surely :roll: