UKBouldering.com

UKB Power Club 395 18th - 24th September 2017 (Read 13473 times)

Ally Smith

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 331
  • Karma: +16/-0

S - Tor. Fairly goppy. Still, managed to (finally) do Undercut-Sloper with Dave's foot beta. Felt significantly stronger than in May. Then did Cave Problem in a few goes (always stayed away from this in the past as convinced it was dodgy for your knee.. it's not, but you need a very good spot). So not a bad session all things considered.


Sorry for the stalking - what's the magic foot beta for Undercut-crimp/sloper? I can get close, but I feel a mile off holding it

T_B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3108
  • Karma: +151/-5

Sorry for the stalking - what's the magic foot beta for Undercut-crimp/sloper? I can get close, but I feel a mile off holding it

I hadn't been using the high right foothold that you can drop knee off. The thing is, you kind of use it to push you leftwards but then you also drive the left toe down onto obvs triangle foothold and turn left hip in to reach the jug less dynamically. It's then easier to hold the swing. All a bit tricky to describe. Dave can literally get the jug static like this, even though he's shorter than me (of course, he crimps the sloper...).

Ally Smith

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 331
  • Karma: +16/-0

I hadn't been using the high right foothold that you can drop knee off. The thing is, you kind of use it to push you leftwards but then you also drive the left toe down onto obvs triangle foothold and turn left hip in to reach the jug less dynamically. It's then easier to hold the swing. All a bit tricky to describe. Dave can literally get the jug static like this, even though he's shorter than me (of course, he crimps the sloper...).

Cheers, I'll have another go

shark

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8790
  • Karma: +651/-18
  • insect overlord #1
Tall people describing beta to each other  :sick:

tomtom

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 20325
  • Karma: +647/-11
Tall people describing beta to each other  :sick:

Climb faster...

tomtom

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 20325
  • Karma: +647/-11
Tall people describing beta to each other  :sick:

Climb faster...

Is it blind date season again... about time we got that done...

shark

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8790
  • Karma: +651/-18
  • insect overlord #1
Tall people describing beta to each other  :sick:

Climb faster...

Is it blind date season again... about time we got that done...

Booked out on the lime till mid November - we can have a date after that. Maybe a couple of you play yours right  :-*

tomtom

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 20325
  • Karma: +647/-11
That’s what you said last year - before bombarding me with 10 texts a day....

Muenchener

Offline
  • *****
  • Trusted Users
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2716
  • Karma: +119/-0
Then ditching you the moment Mina snapped her fingers iirc.

tomtom

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 20325
  • Karma: +647/-11
Then ditching you the moment Mina snapped her fingers iirc.

It still burns...

Wood FT

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2964
  • Karma: +164/-8
Mon -
Tue -
Wed - fingerboard '6c'
Thu - fingerboard '6c'
Fri - Threadbare, knackered, no progress
Sat - drove to north, lack lustre go up tin of and quick bolt to bolt on call of nature, still hard but still good. Drinks in evening
Sun - hungover at two tier, finally climbed open gate 7a+, a multi year effort.

T_B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3108
  • Karma: +151/-5
Mon -
Tue -
Wed - fingerboard '6c'
Thu - fingerboard '6c'

Woah steady on, training logged!

Wood FT

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2964
  • Karma: +164/-8
Set of bar stewards, the lot of ya

duncan

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3062
  • Karma: +354/-2
Hello again!

STG - 165 degree shoulder flexion in two weeks
MTG - climbing by mid-November
LTG - tbc

M-S: left shoulder: stretches, theraband work.
M, F: left and right fingerboard “pick-ups”
S: right shoulder: stability stuff

7 weeks post-shoulder dislocation. First three weeks were too sore to do much beyond trying to maintain range and hoping that the axillary nerve paralysis would show signs of recovery. This started with flickers in the deltoid, to my great relief, at the end of last month. Have been working to rebuild deltoid and the surrounding muscles since then. The last four weeks have been mainly about regaining lost flexibility, currently up to 150 degrees elevation. I’ve also been doing “pick-ups” with DIY rock rings. Don’t know how transferable this will be, but I’ve built up to ~25kg with my left and ~40kg with my right arm on a ~22mm edge. Always taking 2 or 3 days complete rest between sessions and, so far, good gains and no tweaks. Allowing proper recovery is something to consider when I’m able to use a real fingerboard again.

At the outset I estimated I’d need 3 months to get back onto rock and this still seems to be the case. Another 5 weeks or so with the present rate of progress.

Any suggestions on what else I could be doing during this time that would vaguely contribute to climbing?

yetix

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 662
  • Karma: +35/-0
I’ve also been doing “pick-ups” with DIY rock rings. Don’t know how transferable this will be, but I’ve built up to ~25kg with my left and ~40kg with my right arm on a ~22mm edge.

are you adding weight to these much in the same way as with pinch blocks? curious as to how effective this would be!

duncan

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3062
  • Karma: +354/-2
I’ve also been doing “pick-ups” with DIY rock rings. Don’t know how transferable this will be, but I’ve built up to ~25kg with my left and ~40kg with my right arm on a ~22mm edge.

are you adding weight to these much in the same way as with pinch blocks? curious as to how effective this would be!

There is some enthusiasm for it on r/ where they call it "no hanging". I have not much idea if it will have any effect. Better than finger rolls but not as good as a proper finger board? Potential issue could be strengthening the fingers but not the shoulders, leaving the latter more prone to injury?

Like this, but with smaller muscles and better posture:




shark

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8790
  • Karma: +651/-18
  • insect overlord #1
Then ditching you the moment Mina snapped her fingers iirc.

It still burns...

Just had a text

Quote
Are you malhaming at the moment or leaving it for this season?

What do I do?

Wood FT

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2964
  • Karma: +164/-8
Then ditching you the moment Mina snapped her fingers iirc.

It still burns...

Just had a text

Quote
Are you malhaming at the moment or leaving it for this season?

What do I do?

Worth a trip just to see how your recent bouldering exploits have helped

shark

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8790
  • Karma: +651/-18
  • insect overlord #1
Then ditching you the moment Mina snapped her fingers iirc.

It still burns...

Just had a text

Quote
Are you malhaming at the moment or leaving it for this season?

What do I do?

Worth a trip just to see how your recent bouldering exploits have helped



nai

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4009
  • Karma: +206/-1
  • In my dreams
Worth a trip just to see how your recent bouldering exploits have helped

Then he'll get the horn and get sucked in and waste the next month or so getting/not getting the horn etc. and all that time he could have been putting toward a Spring assault will be wasted and it won't happen then either because of lack of preperation and then we'll all be here doing it all over again this time next year.

Stay on Target.  The Foundry should be your default go-to.

Wood FT

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2964
  • Karma: +164/-8
Call me naive but I would have expected le shark to simply recce the route, to feel how stronger he is, then get psyched to continue this radical bouldering phenomenon until he's at ~7b+ / whatever grade the ukb hive has determined is required. You might know Simon's personality better than I but no harm in taking a positive take on a potential Malham trip


lagerstarfish

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Weapon Of Mass
  • Posts: 8861
  • Karma: +826/-10
  • "There's no cure for being a c#nt"
M - soloing easy routes at Burbage North
Tu - Burbage South with Nai, Tomtom and Dolly - they are all proper athletes, so climbed much better than me - top fun
W - building kites with Beavers
Th - easy gym session
F - Secret Garden and Mother Cap with Big Ed. Surprised myself getting to the top of Beachball in reasonable style - more surprised when my skin decided to leave my finger in slow motion
not really NSFW, but it's not a small picture
NSFW  :
Sa - my mate and I dug a 5m3 hole out of clay, rock and concrete using only shovels and a sledge hammer - rather tired - fun
Su - moved pile of earth and rock to it's new home and turned the hole into a pond - even more tired - big fun

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal