S - Tor. Fairly goppy. Still, managed to (finally) do Undercut-Sloper with Dave's foot beta. Felt significantly stronger than in May. Then did Cave Problem in a few goes (always stayed away from this in the past as convinced it was dodgy for your knee.. it's not, but you need a very good spot). So not a bad session all things considered.
Sorry for the stalking - what's the magic foot beta for Undercut-crimp/sloper? I can get close, but I feel a mile off holding it
I hadn't been using the high right foothold that you can drop knee off. The thing is, you kind of use it to push you leftwards but then you also drive the left toe down onto obvs triangle foothold and turn left hip in to reach the jug less dynamically. It's then easier to hold the swing. All a bit tricky to describe. Dave can literally get the jug static like this, even though he's shorter than me (of course, he crimps the sloper...).
Tall people describing beta to each other
Quote from: shark on September 26, 2017, 08:04:27 pmTall people describing beta to each other Climb faster...
Quote from: tomtom on September 26, 2017, 08:44:31 pmQuote from: shark on September 26, 2017, 08:04:27 pmTall people describing beta to each other Climb faster...Is it blind date season again... about time we got that done...
Then ditching you the moment Mina snapped her fingers iirc.
Mon - Tue - Wed - fingerboard '6c'Thu - fingerboard '6c'
I’ve also been doing “pick-ups” with DIY rock rings. Don’t know how transferable this will be, but I’ve built up to ~25kg with my left and ~40kg with my right arm on a ~22mm edge.
Quote from: duncan on September 27, 2017, 11:55:01 am I’ve also been doing “pick-ups” with DIY rock rings. Don’t know how transferable this will be, but I’ve built up to ~25kg with my left and ~40kg with my right arm on a ~22mm edge.are you adding weight to these much in the same way as with pinch blocks? curious as to how effective this would be!
Quote from: Muenchener on September 27, 2017, 07:34:24 amThen ditching you the moment Mina snapped her fingers iirc.It still burns...
Are you malhaming at the moment or leaving it for this season?
Quote from: tomtom on September 27, 2017, 07:36:47 amQuote from: Muenchener on September 27, 2017, 07:34:24 amThen ditching you the moment Mina snapped her fingers iirc.It still burns...Just had a textQuoteAre you malhaming at the moment or leaving it for this season?What do I do?
Quote from: shark on September 27, 2017, 05:48:16 pmQuote from: tomtom on September 27, 2017, 07:36:47 amQuote from: Muenchener on September 27, 2017, 07:34:24 amThen ditching you the moment Mina snapped her fingers iirc.It still burns...Just had a textQuoteAre you malhaming at the moment or leaving it for this season?What do I do?Worth a trip just to see how your recent bouldering exploits have helped
Worth a trip just to see how your recent bouldering exploits have helped