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foundry vs the edge (Read 14350 times)

Fingers of a Martyr

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foundry vs the edge
September 11, 2004, 02:16:23 pm
which one is the better wall for bouldering as i might be in sheff for a night or 2 soon and want to do some climin while i'm down there.

cheerz

jonny

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#1 foundry vs the edge
September 11, 2004, 03:23:16 pm
The Foundry all the way between the 2.

What's wrong with the Grit?

Fingers of a Martyr

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#2 foundry vs the edge
September 11, 2004, 03:52:02 pm
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What's wrong with the Grit?


i take it there's shitloads of outside climbing round sheffield?
never the less i won't be able to get to any of it anyway hence need to get to the best wall possible. :roll:  :wink:

SA Chris

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#3 foundry vs the edge
September 11, 2004, 04:21:45 pm
Quote from: "Fingers of a Martyr"
is there shitloads of outside climbing round sheffield?
i won't be able to get to any of it anyway.


Just a bit! Have you had your head down a hole and never bothered looking at a guidebook or a map?  :sleeping: Try to organise a lift, hitch, use public transport. 10 mins on grit would be more enjoyable than a day down the wall, unless it is lashing with rain.

And even then it's a close call if you have never climbed in the Peak before.

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#4 foundry vs the edge
September 11, 2004, 04:25:25 pm
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Just a bit! Have you had your head down a hole and never bothered looking at a guidebook or a map?


well considering i live 3 hours away from sheffield...

i'm not really arsed about climin outside at the mo. i'd rather just train.

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#5 foundry vs the edge
September 11, 2004, 04:39:49 pm
Yeah right...

And if you get hit by a bus the day after, would you rather lie dying in the road thinking "Well at least I got to sample some of the second finest selection of gritstone bouldering in the country and climbed up some beautiful lines on technically stimulating rock in a great surrounding" or "Well at least I got to pay a fiver for the privilege of pulling on some sweaty plastic in a grimy indoor wall and got one step closer to crippling tendonitis"...??

 :roll:


P.S. But in case it rains, The Edge is better, better problem setting, more interesting problems, better all round challenge....the Foundry is good for training for raven tor / rubicon and that's about it...

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#6 foundry vs the edge
September 11, 2004, 04:49:21 pm
Quote from: "Fingers of a Martyr"

i'm not really arsed about climin outside at the mo. i'd rather just train.


Train for what? Are you the new Matt Smythe?

I'm tellin' ya that boy jus' aint right! :oldgit:

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#7 foundry vs the edge
September 11, 2004, 04:55:56 pm
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Train for what?


train to get strong as fuck :wink:

who's matt smythe?

oh and fiend, chances r i ain't gettin hit by no buses. so the day after when my skins fucked from climbing on gritstone all day and i can't train for the next 5 days i'll just be thinkin 'shit, shud have gone the edge/foundry' :wink:

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#8 foundry vs the edge
September 11, 2004, 05:48:04 pm
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oh and fiend, chances r i ain't gettin hit by no buses.


If you persist with this insistence on training first, climbing second, well....the bus thing might have to be arranged...

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#9 foundry vs the edge
September 11, 2004, 06:56:44 pm
Fair enough, if you want to be a very strong wall climber who is shit at real climbing go down the wall. If you aren't climbing outside 'at the moment' why do you need to save your skin? If skin is really a big issue then at least go bouldering at the tor or rubicon.
As far as which wall is better, it depends on what you are looking for. The edge is good for technical interesting probs on slopey and small holds, the wall is fairly good but the standard of problem setting is very good. The foundry is a better bouldering wall but the prob setting isn't quite as good. The foundry is good for steep and basic, slappy powerful stuff.

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#10 foundry vs the edge
September 11, 2004, 07:21:36 pm
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train to get strong as fuck  

who's matt smythe?


exactly blondie.

there are two kinds of people in this world. those with loaded guns n those who dig. you dig :wink:

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#11 foundry vs the edge
September 11, 2004, 08:20:16 pm
so what, i enjoy training more than actually climin outside at the mo.
whats wrong with that? i ain't telling u lot to stay in and fingerboard all night long instead of going outside to do routes or probs. everyone to their own. thanx for the advice on the walls. the foundry it is.

and everyone runs out of bullets eventually dense... :wink:

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#12 foundry vs the edge
September 11, 2004, 10:37:08 pm
thing is fingers, you can learn more about movement over rock and technique in an evening on the grit then you will in a month in the foundry, and probably be more beneficial than an evenings strength training. You've got to look at the big picture. There are pleanty of very strong yet still ultimatley shit climbers around, you needn't add to that number.

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#13 foundry vs the edge
September 11, 2004, 10:43:49 pm
i won't have a mat with me either.

i understand that i would learn more on the grit for movement and that, but i'm gonna try and go camping or summit somewhere nice in winter (wales or skye) for a few weeks and get some real climbing done then.
so until then its just training.

unfortunatley i'm not strong and shit, just shit. :D

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#14 foundry vs the edge
September 11, 2004, 10:44:21 pm
I'm sure I had a thread talking about the school room and what you learn climbing outside :roll:

Anyway :troll:

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#15 foundry vs the edge
September 11, 2004, 10:48:42 pm
yeah its easy for u to say that dylan but u don't live in the middle of fuckin nowhere, with no public transport to climbing locations, not bein old enough to drive, no friends who have cars and a father who works full time so can't take u anywhere. but none of that bothers me i enjoy my training. i didn't want a fuckin arguement about the gains from climbing indoors or outside so just leave it out. like i said i'm not telling u to train instead of climb.

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#16 foundry vs the edge
September 11, 2004, 10:53:55 pm
I live in London

Fingers of a Martyr

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#17 foundry vs the edge
September 11, 2004, 10:56:55 pm
so perhaps u could understand where i'm coming from?
why'd u accuse me of lookin for an arguement when i wasn't?

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#18 foundry vs the edge
September 11, 2004, 10:58:49 pm
From Sheffield you can catch the train to Hathersausage and walk to Stanage.  Not sure if the bus is still running from Eccy road anymore.

Didn't think you were that stupid enough to prefer plastic over rock.  Sorry for giving you the benefit of the doubt

dave

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#19 foundry vs the edge
September 11, 2004, 11:01:43 pm
you can get the bus (272) from eccesall road easily to burbage, secret garden, mother cap, over owler, millstone.

times on http://www.ukbus.co.uk

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#20 foundry vs the edge
September 11, 2004, 11:03:15 pm
Get the bus, then hitch back.  

Bouldering mats are so 2000 anyway

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#21 foundry vs the edge
September 11, 2004, 11:22:49 pm
word. you could hicth both ways...one of my favorite days of climbing was on a sunday after a very messy sat night in sheffield, wandered up Eccy Rd and stuck my thunb out, just help up a sign saying "the Peak" and a copy of the PBG...got picked up in about 10 mins, and dropped off at Stanage!

I have such fond memeories of that day, spend the day wandering amonst the boulders (meeting SA Chris at one point!)..me mate sent NTBTA as the sun went down...proper flava.

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#22 foundry vs the edge
September 11, 2004, 11:41:31 pm
Quote from: "Fingers of a Martyr"
yeah its easy for u to say that dylan but u don't live in the middle of fuckin nowhere, with no public transport to climbing locations, not bein old enough to drive, no friends who have cars and a father who works full time so can't take u anywhere. but none of that bothers me i enjoy my training. i didn't want a fuckin arguement about the gains from climbing indoors or outside so just leave it out. like i said i'm not telling u to train instead of climb.

umm.
call me thick, but does the term 'train' not imply that you are seeking to achieve something? you must have some sort of target in your mind?

i live in deepest darkest sowf lundun. i know when i'm up in sheff (which is rare) unless it's pissing it down i'd rather be out in the peak doing stuff. first time i went up there i didn't have a mat, and there's a fair amount of stuff you can do without one...you inevitably end up hooking up with other bloddering types when you're out anyway, most don't mind if you ask to use their mat on a problem they're playing on (unless they're well 'ard, in which case i try to climb as far away as possible cos i'm crap :8))

tomorrow i shall be embarking on a 2 hour public transport journey (i don't drive) just to get on the sandstone for a few hours. where there's a will there's a way, yoof.  :poke:

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#23 foundry vs the edge
September 12, 2004, 12:59:51 pm
I suppose i better explain myself on this issue instead of just going off in a huff. I guess there are not very many people on here who would prefer to stay at home and train on a fingerboard/pull up bar instead of going for a session at the local crag.

I understand what dave is saying. I'm sure a day on the grit would teach me 20x more in terms of technique then a night at the foundry would do for me in terms of strength gains. But right now that doesn't bother me.

As for being 'stupid' just cos i prefer to stay indoors most of the time at the mo, well thats your opinion dylan. Fair enough i'm 'stupid'.

As for embarking on a two hour bus jurney for a few hours just to get on rock, i'm certainly not prepared to do that. I suppose i'm not really that bothered about 'real bouldering'. I love going outside on the rock every now and again to see how i'm improving but thats about it.

Targets? Well i'm just training up to the point where i can do 'hard' problems outside in short amounts of time. I'm not into having projects or ought. Apart from ones on my board.

All i wanted was to know which wall was better not to be told that outdoor climbing is better than indoor climbing and get embroiled in the subsequent arguement.

<in corny american accent> peace out dudes :wink:  <end of corny american accent>

 :hihi: Jonny :hihi:

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#24 foundry vs the edge
September 12, 2004, 01:24:25 pm
:poke:

 

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