[BoulderHog]

That's pretty funny, but surely he got to a decent, respectable level? He can't have been all shit, why would he train so hard if he was inherently crap at climbing. Obsessive and blind is probably the answer. Just goes to show that not everyone who trains hard, methodically and constantly, turns into Malcolm Smith. Be warned kids. Still, when you quit you might make lots of money? So it's not all bad.

[Fingers of a Martyr]

maybe he just had a shit genetic makeup.

[account_inactive]

Maybe he would have been even shitter without the training

[Bubba]

If he was trying to onsight 7c a few years back, then he must have been pretty good...

I've known people who are more into training than actually climbing. To me that's missing the point but if they enjoy it then good luck to them, it's not hurting anyone else, is it?

I've also known a lot of people who get good then burn out, or just get bored of climbing and move on to do other things. I gave up for 8 years, which is why I'm so shit and fat nowdays - well that's my excuse anyway

[Fingers of a Martyr]

well yeah, exactly.

thats in reply to dylan not to u bubba. phew, that could have looked bad.

[Fingers of a Martyr]

another thing perhaps he didn't start young enough? just a thought. doylo posted once sayin that malc reckoned startin young was wot go him so strong.

[Fiend]

There ya go Foam, your future mapped out - wife, kids big belly but you're happy

my future or your reality fiend? :wink:

Ha! Not my reality, I only train a little (and that's for routes...) and am still fat and weak....

[Teaboy]

In fairness to Smythe he did once get up an 8b (Transform? at Volx) but it was only once and he was more famous for his repeated failure to get up Bad, Bad Boy, which was a shame really because he only went on it so that he knew the top section for when he did Meloncholie!  

He may well have been very strong but his plyometric training didn't really translate to routes.

As for the other questions, I don't really know but I've failed on more problems due to lack of strength than technique, you can get someone to show you the technique.

[BoulderHog]

It sounds like he'd have made a much better boulderer, but I guess it wasn't the style at the time, shame for him.

Bouldering suits the power based person much better than the endurance freaks, and I think it's perfectly ok to split people up like this, because everyone leans towards one more than the other, and tends to focus on their stronger area (all rounders like sharma and graham etc but these are the exception rather than the norm). So maybe if he started climbing today he would have become an awesome boulderer eventually?

[Fingers of a Martyr]

and plyometric training implies fast explosive movements but usually on okaysish holds, i.e small rungs on a campus board. sounds nothing like his project at kilnsley. sounds like he was just doing the wrong sort of training.

[webbo]

proir to moving to sheffield smyth did a fair few e4's and e5's in the lakes.
the point that was being made was that he went down the indoor training route to the almost total exclusion of outdoor climbing except for target routes.
the conclusion being training indoors is fine as long as you get outside to climb on a regular basis.

[fatboySlimfast]

It sounds like he'd have made a much better boulderer, but I guess it wasn't the style at the time, shame for him.

i have to say it was the non commercial way to go at the time, these boys were looking at comps and redpointing as the be all...some of us were preaching the faith but not many were listening

[andy bowie]

When I was younger i was totally of Fingers mindset. I preferred 'training' to climbing on the shitstone. Fcuk i even got quite obsessed, writing the guidebook to the school room, climbing font8a+ what ever that is up there. It was more instant, just about fighting to do moves which felt at my physical limit. Shitstone meant smearing and balancing and all that nonsence! And it was awesome fun - climbing with like minded weird obsessed people that liked hanging out in a dusty flea bitten room. I was 'training' every day. And i remember having these exact conversations with the usual suspects - but it was a very personal thing for me. I just enjoyed it.

Now? climb maybe 3 times a week, mostly outdoors, am piss weak but enjoy climbing outdoors more. I'm not sure of exactly why - just evolved really. Anyway, not dissing either point of view, just demonstrating that Fingers is not alone in his desire for 'training' without perhaps a definitive goal.

Bowie.

[Fingers of a Martyr]

i suppose i shud add that i do really have 'definite goals' but they're not the sort of things u go spraying about on climbing forums cos u just get laffed at. ultimatley all my training is a means to an end but the end is a very, very long way away hence the not really bothered about side stuff at the moment. once i've completed my goals inside then i'll pursue my goals outside.

[Fiend]

i suppose i shud add that i do really have 'definite goals' but they're not the sort of things u go spraying about on climbing forums cos u just get laffed at.  ultimatley all my training is a means to an end but the end is a very, very long way away hence the not really bothered about side stuff at the moment. once i've completed my goals inside then i'll pursue my goals outside.

I kinda respect that. I feel the same about my routing although I am doing the longer term thing with a vast amount of normal bumbling experience already.


I also understand about the "spraying on" thing, but I think on here you'd get a calmer and more....respectful response.

[webbo]

i see you've taken note of everybody's advice then. :?

[dave]

i suppose i shud add that i do really have 'definite goals' but they're not the sort of things u go spraying about on climbing forums cos u just get laffed at. .

perish the thought.

[Fingers of a Martyr]

i've always had really long term goals in my mind but they're long as in probably take 4-5 years to ahcieve if i'm really lucky, don't get any heavier, don't get injured etc u know so they're always there in the back of my mind but when i'm actually trainin i don't think about them.

[webbo]

did you miss spontaneous combustion of the list of things that might happen if you continue with your current training regime. :wink:

[Fiend]

did you miss spontaneous combustion of the list of things that might happen if you continue with your current training regime. :wink:

I'll put my money on that =).

[SA Chris]

and plyometric training implies fast explosive movements but usually on okaysish holds, i.e small rungs on a campus board. sounds nothing like his project at kilnsley. sounds like he was just doing the wrong sort of training.

Thus spake our resident training expert.

[Ru]

Fingers of a Martyr wrote:

maybe in a few years bonjoy. after i've moved to sheff.  
anyone offered a prospective grade? how long is it?
hangars = bolts?

Very short and steep, very few holds 8c at least, doesn't look great hence the lack of attempts

I thought that Smyth's '8c' project was turned into Tony Mitchell's 8b Brief Encounter, after very little effort.

[Nigel]

Wouldn't surprise anyone would it! Tony Mitchell = LEGEND.  :worthy:

[Bonjoy]

Fingers of a Martyr wrote:

maybe in a few years bonjoy. after i've moved to sheff.  
anyone offered a prospective grade? how long is it?
hangars = bolts?

Very short and steep, very few holds 8c at least, doesn't look great hence the lack of attempts

I thought that Smyth's '8c' project was turned into Tony Mitchell's 8b Brief Encounter, after very little effort.

Aaaah right. I was looking at the abandoned project left of Smooth Torque about 5m to the right of Brief Encounter, I remembered him sticking bolts in somewhere round there.