[Sasquatch]

2017 Goal - 14? of 40 Ticked (FYI - goal is to tick 40 7C+ or harder boulder problems that I've not done before - I turn 40 in June...)

M-Work/Travel
T-Work AM, then quick drive to Leavenworth, tick #'s 13 and 14, drive back to Seattle and fly home. 
W-
T-Hard MB Session
F-
S-Short gym session with Nephew - his first time.  Ticked a 7C in 2 goes
S-Hike 2hrs

Another good week.  Two more on the goal for the year.  At this rate, it looks like it'll go down pretty easy, which is massively unexpected considering my entire climbing career I've only done 50-60ish in that range...

[Murph]

What does everyone else do for max hangs ? Middle bottom hold on BM 10 seconds each hand then 3 minutes rest x 9 . Webb Parsons style ??

I'm similar to Sasquatch, two hands, added weight, reps of 10 seconds. I have a timer running under the telly and hang on the 1,4,7 etc minute mark.

Thoughts:
I don't see how anyone could really use the CWP protocol of feathering a bit of strong, just not scientific enough to me - I'd need to grab very hard to get to 10 or even 5 seconds on one arm. Just 10 kilos of asssistance is still quite a lot.

But the half crimp hang CWP advocates - I understand that is supposed to be what you use. I just get lazy though and go open. I know I'm supposed to hold it more at 90 degrees but I can't hang as big a number. Does anyone else get lazy and just hang open with more weight? Or are folk really strict with using the right grip type?

[gme]

I am totally strict. Have my thumb on the side of my index and as soon as it slips I drop off.

I think it's imperative that you keep form.

You seem to me to be fitting the exact stereotype of who I thought was into deadhanging rather than bouldering. I.e doing it as it's a bit easy and doesn't physically or mentally tax you too much.

 Mine are done to max I have never once been able to complete my sets and always fail to do the last few 10 sec hangs. My max is only 6-7kg less than the load I am training with.
My fingers are worked the next day and there is no way I could climb.

[TobyD]

2017 Goal - 8a; a sportive (any)
M- foundry
T- yoga, dog walking
W- yoga, couple of short runs mainly testing out strava on a smart watch
T- foundry routes, right ring finger felt pretty odd at the end of the session...
F- finger not painful, but pins and needles intermittently made it really hard to climb - easy aerocap mostly c.25 routes
S- harder aerocap, finger feeling better but still some p+n, think its more to do with wrist, as also some in first and index.
S- yoga; 25 miles on bike, lovely day; lots of shit drivers out.

[Nibile]

What does everyone else do for max hangs ? Middle bottom hold on BM 10 seconds each hand then 3 minutes rest x 9 . Webb Parsons style ??

I do back3 and front3, one max hang followed by one sub max hang, x 5 x each prehension.

[Murph]

Gme - also it's convenient. With a 1 year old and a 3 year old and all that entails I just wasn't having time in my life for 3x2hr wall sessions a week.

Bouldering on rock is my most favourite thing. Bouldering inside on plastic, I am far less taken by. As you were questioning the carry over from FB to climbing last week, so I question whether, for me, the carryover from indoor-style climbing to outside-style is also pretty poor.

Never been called a stereotype before, I'm not sure how to take it tbh.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[petejh]

STG: Send existing projs at Crag X (NI), Mega Crag X (NI), G.Orme and Gideon.
MTG: first 8b+ (Mecca), spring. Continue bolting/sending new routes at Mega Crag X (spring-summer). Explore more of Ireland. Send 2 projs on L.Orme (late summer)
LTG: 8c, by June 2018

Week 8 / 10 before starting trying Mecca.

M.
T. Llanymynych quarry. Aerocap on routes. Did 5 long routes, 6b+, 6c, 6c+, 7a, 7a+. Fell off the os of Nomad at the top when I got to the crux and it was soaking wet, hadn't realised from below. Good mileage venue.
W. Fingerboard max hangs. 5 reps of 10secs with 28kg on 20mm edge (BM slots with battery in).
T. Boardroom. Ancap on campus board. moved down to mid-size rungs. 4 reps of 1357,down ladder,1357. Rest between reps= 4xwork time. 2 sets with 10mins rest between sets. Completed first 4 reps, then 1st of the second set. Failed on last 3 reps on the way back up. Good. Aerocap - 1min on/off on the 7a+ circuit.
F. Core sesh.
S. Kettlebell workout.
S. Pilbox wall. Tried to get reacquainted with Millennium Drive but lacking any zip. Failing on the easy moves! Sacked it off and went for a walk. Not enough sleep in last few days and severely lacking oomph and co-ordination.

Transition to power and aeropow and power this week.

[psborland]

What does everyone else do for max hangs ? Middle bottom hold on BM 10 seconds each hand then 3 minutes rest x 9 . Webb Parsons style ??

I'm similar to Sasquatch, two hands, added weight, reps of 10 seconds. I have a timer running under the telly and hang on the 1,4,7 etc minute mark.

Thoughts:
I don't see how anyone could really use the CWP protocol of feathering a bit of strong, just not scientific enough to me - I'd need to grab very hard to get to 10 or even 5 seconds on one arm. Just 10 kilos of asssistance is still quite a lot.

But the half crimp hang CWP advocates - I understand that is supposed to be what you use. I just get lazy though and go open. I know I'm supposed to hold it more at 90 degrees but I can't hang as big a number. Does anyone else get lazy and just hang open with more weight? Or are folk really strict with using the right grip type?

I think I'm fairly good a being strict with the half crimp position but I know what you mean it's tempting to go into the open hand. I feel I'm disproportionately weak crimping so am trying hard to stay in position.
I felt exactly the same with the cwp protocol I'm pulling really hard with the assisting hand and even more so locked off and there is no way of quantifying how hard I'm pulling. I might try the same protocol with a pulley instead.

I do back3 and front3, one max hang followed by one sub max hang, x 5 x each prehension.

Nibile, is that 2 (max & sub max) hangs close together then a longer rest, 5 times over then whole thing again in the other position ?  ( I had to look up the meaning for prehension )

[gme]

Gme - also it's convenient. With a 1 year old and a 3 year old and all that entails I just wasn't having time in my life for 3x2hr wall sessions a week.

Bouldering on rock is my most favourite thing. Bouldering inside on plastic, I am far less taken by. As you were questioning the carry over from FB to climbing last week, so I question whether, for me, the carryover from indoor-style climbing to outside-style is also pretty poor.

Never been called a stereotype before, I'm not sure how to take it tbh.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sorry i never meant it it sound derogatory. I just have a feeling that there are a lot of people out there who are really into finger boards due to the fact they are a pretty mentally untaxing form of training in comparison to other methods. Its perceived as something thats quick and easy so is approached in that manner. The training you did last week seemed to fit that idea as in your own words you didnt push yourself, once due to the session being easy and once due to not having enough weight.

Dead hanging seems to fall right at the end of the effort scale in climbing training with some of the aeropower stuff (totally pumped, arms screaming in pain, mentally tortuous) is at the other and i do wonder if this is why its so popular.

I understand your in to it due to time restraints, i suffer from the same problem, but surely that makes it even more important to do each short session right and to its limit.

[Murph]

Nah you're probably right - I am doing it because it's easy. I've spent all year trying things that are hard - like trying to work out how to do the murples at the works. I just can't get my head round them and injuries and not trying hard etc.

The easy comments were personal notes really - last week trying 7 sets of 10s +33kgs and i only completed 4. This tuesday it was "easy!" to do all 7 and then on the Thursday when I played the up-the-weight game 6 sets were in excess of 40kgs and the last 45.5kg was all the weights I own but my notes said "fine!!?" - which is quite ridiculous if you saw the weight plates and kettlebells I have hanging off my belt.

Picking up from you and being reminded of the CWP half crimp protocol though - I should probably go back to 33kgs but push myself harder to maintain half crimp for ten. And when I next end up down the works I should probably man up and challenge myself to get to the top of the motherboard for the first time, even if the whole session is "a failure". It would be more efficient than trying to find a soft touch murple.

On reflection, thanks for the challenge.

[Nibile]

I do back3 and front3, one max hang followed by one sub max hang, x 5 x each prehension.

Nibile, is that 2 (max & sub max) hangs close together then a longer rest, 5 times over then whole thing again in the other position ?  ( I had to look up the meaning for prehension )

Sorry, I was a bit inaccurate.
I start with back3 and do 1 max, short rest, 1 sub max. Change arm, do the same. Good rest. Five times. Then the same for front3.
I prefer to complete the back3 hangs (1+1) x 5 per arm, before switching to front3, instead of alternating, because back3 is a lot harder for me, also because I have a short pinky that needs a lot of wrist twisting and lots of force applied to stay put.
Front3 is easier but I focus on keeping a good half crimp without dragging at all.

[the_dom]

Mon: A couple of hours at The Arch trying to climb as many problems as possible. Lots of walking.

Tues: 8-odd km run around London. More walking.

Wed: A couple of hours at Vauxwall in the morning. So much walking.

Thurs: 9-odd km run around London followed by LOTS of working. Met old friends for dinner and drinks. Lots of drinks.

Fri: Rest day. Hangover.

Sat: Dragged around Covent Garden and Regent Street by shopping wife but managed a few hours at The Arch. Run The Jewels live in the evening 

Sun: A quick 8-ish km run through London before wandering Shoreditch and then missioning to Heathrow and thence home.

A pretty good trip, all in all.

[Sasquatch]

But the half crimp hang CWP advocates - I understand that is supposed to be what you use. I just get lazy though and go open. I know I'm supposed to hold it more at 90 degrees but I can't hang as big a number. Does anyone else get lazy and just hang open with more weight? Or are folk really strict with using the right grip type?

I'm strict about form for whatever prehension I'm training.  I typically train 1/2 crimp, and am strict about 90 degree angles. 

Mine are done to max I have never once been able to complete my sets and always fail to do the last few 10 sec hangs. My max is only 6-7kg less than the load I am training with.
My fingers are worked the next day and there is no way I could climb.

I rarely go to failure.  I typically have to try really hard and If I'm not there mentally, I sack off the session at 3 or 4 reps instead of 5.  Lopez talks a bit about this, and there's a variety of literature about it as well.  I think the bottom line is that by going to full failure, you require a longer recovery period before being able to re-engage at max.  So by doing just a hair below max, I feel like I can push the frequency just a bit and get more return in the long run. 

[gme]

Mine are done to max I have never once been able to complete my sets and always fail to do the last few 10 sec hangs. My max is only 6-7kg less than the load I am training with.
My fingers are worked the next day and there is no way I could climb.

I rarely go to failure.  I typically have to try really hard and If I'm not there mentally, I sack off the session at 3 or 4 reps instead of 5.  Lopez talks a bit about this, and there's a variety of literature about it as well.  I think the bottom line is that by going to full failure, you require a longer recovery period before being able to re-engage at max.  So by doing just a hair below max, I feel like I can push the frequency just a bit and get more return in the long run.

How many sessions do you do a week. Ditto period.

[Murph]

Failure can mean different things too, no? My plan is currently to stop at ten but to go for at least five seconds. I am aiming for that sweet spot where even the last hang lasts for at least five but they aren't all ten - if they are then it's too easy and I know for next time to up my game.

Had a session with the new grip type today, here's a comparison.

Old, "lazy" hang, definitely not a half crimp and not a proper hang either. Transfers well on the smaller edge tho:



And the half crimp, I'm not used to training it, obvs, but it's nearly as strong as the lazy hang. Appreciate if any experts care to say it's right/wrong/index finger must be straighter etc. don't want to fool myself.

[Sasquatch]

Better, but get the thumb off the index.  Too close to closed crimp...

Mine are done to max I have never once been able to complete my sets and always fail to do the last few 10 sec hangs. My max is only 6-7kg less than the load I am training with.
My fingers are worked the next day and there is no way I could climb.

I rarely go to failure.  I typically have to try really hard and If I'm not there mentally, I sack off the session at 3 or 4 reps instead of 5.  Lopez talks a bit about this, and there's a variety of literature about it as well.  I think the bottom line is that by going to full failure, you require a longer recovery period before being able to re-engage at max.  So by doing just a hair below max, I feel like I can push the frequency just a bit and get more return in the long run.

How many sessions do you do a week. Ditto period.

When I'm doing a FB cycle, I try to do two FB sessions and one hard boulder session a week.  The FB sessions also have 3-4 supplemental strength exercises as well based on whatever I think needs work - core, shoulders, DL, etc. 

[tomtom]

Interesting Murph - your lazy hang feels perfect for me on the BM1K too.. I can't really get my fingers in right for the crimp.

I've probably missed something here - but if you can hold more on the lazy crimp - isn't it a better idea to use it rather than the half crimp?

[Murph]

Thanks Sasquatch really appreciate it.

Tom - apparently it's got the best carry over to other hang types, so 1/2 crimp helps full crimp and open but open doesn't help crimp and vice versa. Apparently, according to Neil Gresham at least.

[Nibile]

I've probably missed something here - but if you can hold more on the lazy crimp - isn't it a better idea to use it rather than the half crimp?

Nope. This is training, not climbing.

[webbo]

Mon. Nothing.
Tue. Went to Tranmaire on NYMoors. Usual spanking got up a couple of things and failed on many moor. Nice day out.
Wed. Nothing.
Thurs. Board did some system style problems. Bike out for 50 mins intervals.
Fri. Bike 40 mins just to loosen my legs.
Sat. Bike Vale Velo  98 miles 5 hrs 50 mins 50 secs. Riding time 5 hrs 38 mins but I had to stop to fix a puncture. Quite tired when I finished.
Sun. Nothing sore.

[nik at work]

A bit late this week but...

M-nowt
T-evening session on the traverse wall. 1x7b, 1x8a, 8x8a+, 1x8a, 1x7b
W-nowt
T-nowt
F-M - Roadtrip, 600 miles in three days round the North of England to see what a longer bike ride is like, meet friends and do some climbing. Success on the first two fromts but abject failure on the climbing. I hadn't realised just how draining several hours in the seat of a bike can be. So whilst I climbed Sat, Sun and Mon, it was only in the sense that I put on my climbing shoes and pulled myself up some rock to the bare minmum extent. Still had a great weekend meeting up with friends and a decent mileage for the first tour. (Bike = motorbike obvs, I'm not some pedal bike sicko). Highlight was the early Sunday morning ride across the Peak District.

Murph I deadhang like you lazy style, but that is also how I climb. I have never in my life crimped, though I may have occasionally cracked out a notional half crimp.

[36chambers]

Just got back from a 15 day trip to the forest.

2nd week highlights include: a week long heatwave, Le Lot de Boudins 7C, Iceberg Raccourci assis 7B+, splitting a tip, sunbathing, puntering off going for the finishing jug on Symbiose 7C, sunbathing, Berezina 7C utilising a pad in a tree and Welcome to Tijuana 7C.

As I said in last weeks Power Club my aim for the trip was a 7C (having previously only managed Carnage and a few 7B's). I somehow bagged 5 7C's and 2 7B+'s (and 10 other 7's). More importantly, with the exception of Berezina, everything went pretty quickly. Definitely feel like I have upped my game recently, completely made up .

[shark]

 

[Nibile]

 

[tomtom]

inspirational week 36C and Nik - so heartening that my evil non half crimp, easy crimp can be an effective weapon