What does everyone else do for max hangs ? Middle bottom hold on BM 10 seconds each hand then 3 minutes rest x 9 . Webb Parsons style ??
Quote from: psborland on April 03, 2017, 02:33:48 pmWhat does everyone else do for max hangs ? Middle bottom hold on BM 10 seconds each hand then 3 minutes rest x 9 . Webb Parsons style ??I'm similar to Sasquatch, two hands, added weight, reps of 10 seconds. I have a timer running under the telly and hang on the 1,4,7 etc minute mark. Thoughts:I don't see how anyone could really use the CWP protocol of feathering a bit of strong, just not scientific enough to me - I'd need to grab very hard to get to 10 or even 5 seconds on one arm. Just 10 kilos of asssistance is still quite a lot. But the half crimp hang CWP advocates - I understand that is supposed to be what you use. I just get lazy though and go open. I know I'm supposed to hold it more at 90 degrees but I can't hang as big a number. Does anyone else get lazy and just hang open with more weight? Or are folk really strict with using the right grip type?
I do back3 and front3, one max hang followed by one sub max hang, x 5 x each prehension.
Gme - also it's convenient. With a 1 year old and a 3 year old and all that entails I just wasn't having time in my life for 3x2hr wall sessions a week. Bouldering on rock is my most favourite thing. Bouldering inside on plastic, I am far less taken by. As you were questioning the carry over from FB to climbing last week, so I question whether, for me, the carryover from indoor-style climbing to outside-style is also pretty poor. Never been called a stereotype before, I'm not sure how to take it tbh. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Quote from: Nibile on April 03, 2017, 11:27:26 pmI do back3 and front3, one max hang followed by one sub max hang, x 5 x each prehension.Nibile, is that 2 (max & sub max) hangs close together then a longer rest, 5 times over then whole thing again in the other position ? ( I had to look up the meaning for prehension )
But the half crimp hang CWP advocates - I understand that is supposed to be what you use. I just get lazy though and go open. I know I'm supposed to hold it more at 90 degrees but I can't hang as big a number. Does anyone else get lazy and just hang open with more weight? Or are folk really strict with using the right grip type?
Mine are done to max I have never once been able to complete my sets and always fail to do the last few 10 sec hangs. My max is only 6-7kg less than the load I am training with. My fingers are worked the next day and there is no way I could climb.
Quote from: gme on April 03, 2017, 10:43:37 pmMine are done to max I have never once been able to complete my sets and always fail to do the last few 10 sec hangs. My max is only 6-7kg less than the load I am training with. My fingers are worked the next day and there is no way I could climb. I rarely go to failure. I typically have to try really hard and If I'm not there mentally, I sack off the session at 3 or 4 reps instead of 5. Lopez talks a bit about this, and there's a variety of literature about it as well. I think the bottom line is that by going to full failure, you require a longer recovery period before being able to re-engage at max. So by doing just a hair below max, I feel like I can push the frequency just a bit and get more return in the long run.
Quote from: Sasquatch on April 04, 2017, 06:49:07 pm Quote from: gme on April 03, 2017, 10:43:37 pmMine are done to max I have never once been able to complete my sets and always fail to do the last few 10 sec hangs. My max is only 6-7kg less than the load I am training with. My fingers are worked the next day and there is no way I could climb. I rarely go to failure. I typically have to try really hard and If I'm not there mentally, I sack off the session at 3 or 4 reps instead of 5. Lopez talks a bit about this, and there's a variety of literature about it as well. I think the bottom line is that by going to full failure, you require a longer recovery period before being able to re-engage at max. So by doing just a hair below max, I feel like I can push the frequency just a bit and get more return in the long run. How many sessions do you do a week. Ditto period.
I've probably missed something here - but if you can hold more on the lazy crimp - isn't it a better idea to use it rather than the half crimp?