I like climbing on crimps because I'm good at it, I therefore prefer walls that use crimps. When I go to walls where there are more pinches I get spanked, so I think these walls are rubbish.
All this does is make you good at big slopey pinches which you only find indoors and doesn't transfer well to outdoors where there are generally far fewer massive blobby pinchy slopers.
Quote from: andy_e on March 12, 2013, 09:40:03 am All this does is make you good at big slopey pinches which you only find indoors and doesn't transfer well to outdoors where there are generally far fewer massive blobby pinchy slopers.You should climb on tufas more.
ply walls are a blank canvas and it is down to the setters and the owners how good the problems end up being.
One advantage that the featured walls like the wave have, is that there is a number of possibilities for your feet. This means that the problems can work better for a large range of heights.
Decent ply walls often have a scattering of tiny screw-on foot jibs to suit a range of heights.
... It's great if that's all you are interested in climbing outdoors, but not everyone is. On the otherhand there are only about a dozen boulder problems in the entire gym above v3 which aren't on overhangs, and 4 of those are crap traverses.
Quote from: moose on March 12, 2013, 12:02:50 pmDecent ply walls often have a scattering of tiny screw-on foot jibs to suit a range of heights. This is why I like the Leeds Wall bouldering so much, there's always plenty of choice between the footholds on the problem and the green screw-ons for feet which allows all sorts of sequences to be concocted.
Since climbing in gyms abroad in the States (?) where setters use coloured tape to mark problems and routes, I have started to wonder why uk gyms insist on setting solely by hold colour.
Since climbing in gyms abroad where setters use coloured tape to mark problems and routes, I have started to wonder why uk gyms insist on setting solely by hold colour. This does tend to limit the types of hold available for a given route. This also works well with more densely set routes on ply, as setters can add more holds (preferably small feet etc.) to a given wall space, and then use tape marking to set multiple problems using the same holds.
Quote from: jmews on March 12, 2013, 02:03:08 pmSince climbing in gyms abroad where setters use coloured tape to mark problems and routes, I have started to wonder why uk gyms insist on setting solely by hold colour. This does tend to limit the types of hold available for a given route. This also works well with more densely set routes on ply, as setters can add more holds (preferably small feet etc.) to a given wall space, and then use tape marking to set multiple problems using the same holds.Just looking at pictures of these walls gives me a headache. I suspect setting like this is easier for the route setter.i.e they just shove a load of holds in a bag with a roll of tape, rather plan what they going to set.