especially it being summer and horrible and humid.
Could you share some info about how many sets of the 3 reps you do
Sasquatch I'm very interested in this training program, especially as the gains seem to be quite significant. Could you share some info about how many sets of the 3 reps you do and how many times per week do you do this session. Do you find you can do it on a day where you might also climb? Particularly interested to overcome skin issues especially it being summer and horrible and humid.Thanks
Quote from: rodma on June 28, 2012, 02:07:34 pmQuote from: Serpico on June 28, 2012, 10:18:40 amYou need to see the picture in the context of the blog it came from to understand the point it was illustrating.Fair dos, didn't really have the time. Edit: Not sorry, have now read article and i stand by my commmentsIt's just quite a common mistake to think that because you can open hand hang (albeit by the skin dragging) a very small edge that this will in some way translate to anything other than small holds that rely on this type of friction, utilising that exact griptype.If, on the otherhand you are half-crimping an 18mm edge to start with, then half crimping a 9mm edge (or smaller) will not be twice as hard as this.The point Eva was making that training on small holds has certain limitations because of skin and conditions and having the right shaped fingers.I'm not sure what point you are making but you don't seem to be disagreeing with that
Quote from: Serpico on June 28, 2012, 10:18:40 amYou need to see the picture in the context of the blog it came from to understand the point it was illustrating.Fair dos, didn't really have the time. Edit: Not sorry, have now read article and i stand by my commmentsIt's just quite a common mistake to think that because you can open hand hang (albeit by the skin dragging) a very small edge that this will in some way translate to anything other than small holds that rely on this type of friction, utilising that exact griptype.If, on the otherhand you are half-crimping an 18mm edge to start with, then half crimping a 9mm edge (or smaller) will not be twice as hard as this.
You need to see the picture in the context of the blog it came from to understand the point it was illustrating.
Correct
Quote from: Sasquatch on June 28, 2012, 04:25:24 pmCorrectAnd will you use added weight on the smaller hold? How smaller?
It may help so long as your half-crimping That looks nice, if a wee bit sharp
Each exercise and prehension trains mostly itself and is not highly transferrable to other exercises and prehensions.
Each exercise and prehension trains mostly itself and is not highly transferrable to other exercises and prehensions. I spent years crimping and also pulling very small hold with my fingers pointing down (almost with the fingernails), and I thought I was strong. And I was, but only on that specific grip (mostly was just pain toletance to be honest). One day I tried to half crimp, obviously without using the thumb, and my performance dropped by 2/3. Very frustrating and very crucial day. This is why I still prefer to train many different prehensions on the BM, even though I rarely climb on monos or the likes.
This sounds like an ideal training plan, i do less training and get more gains, sounds too good to be true.
Running is an interesting example. If you look at classic 5-10K training, you build easy/steady volume up until you're consistantly running 50-70 miles per week, then add a small amount of "fast running". But in a given week, your "high intensity running" only accounts for about 5% of your total running. How many climbers do you know who do that? A few of the pros, but that's about it.... As you get to shorter and shorter running distances, you see a higher percentage of "high intensity" at maybe 10-15%, but still nothing like what you see climbers doing.
Quote from: shark on June 28, 2012, 03:45:17 pmQuote from: rodma on June 28, 2012, 02:07:34 pmQuote from: Serpico on June 28, 2012, 10:18:40 amYou need to see the picture in the context of the blog it came from to understand the point it was illustrating.Fair dos, didn't really have the time. Edit: Not sorry, have now read article and i stand by my commmentsIt's just quite a common mistake to think that because you can open hand hang (albeit by the skin dragging) a very small edge that this will in some way translate to anything other than small holds that rely on this type of friction, utilising that exact griptype.If, on the otherhand you are half-crimping an 18mm edge to start with, then half crimping a 9mm edge (or smaller) will not be twice as hard as this.The point Eva was making that training on small holds has certain limitations because of skin and conditions and having the right shaped fingers.I'm not sure what point you are making but you don't seem to be disagreeing with that my non-point was that you can train on small holds if you're not attempting to drag them, which has very little to do with shape of fingers. if, for instance when you crimp, you can have all of your tips beautifully lined up on a small edge, that open-handed you could not, then the only reason that you would not be able to hold it half-crimped would be down to weakness, nothing else, just weakness, and that is easily addressed