If there is no swelling and it doesn't hurt could it simply have been your knuckles cracking as its the joint that feels stiff?
I believe it depends on how it feels when pulling in certain grip types. If it hurts full crimp, I'm pretty sure it's the pulley. Don't try dead hanging though. Normally just crimping the edge of a table, and gently pulling against it should show the problem.
Quote from: Drew on June 01, 2012, 10:01:56 amIf it hurts full crimp, I'm pretty sure it's the pulley. Just tried this and yes, there is definate pain in the joint and in the portion after the joint extending to the next joint at end of the finger!
If it hurts full crimp, I'm pretty sure it's the pulley.
Quote from: gremlin on June 01, 2012, 10:13:31 amQuote from: Drew on June 01, 2012, 10:01:56 amIf it hurts full crimp, I'm pretty sure it's the pulley. Just tried this and yes, there is definate pain in the joint and in the portion after the joint extending to the next joint at end of the finger! it could also be collateral ligaments. Or several other things, but essentially: ice it, rest for a week minimum, possibly longer, than if you are a restrained person start VERY easy climbing. indoor jugs usually work for me. <6a first session, NOT steep type of thing. ice it after, and take it steady.
Annoying thing is, I was starting to see improvements in my climbing before this happened. I'd got my weight down and my strength up
Quote from: gremlin on June 01, 2012, 01:57:39 pmAnnoying thing is, I was starting to see improvements in my climbing before this happened. I'd got my weight down and my strength up Exactly the same as me! Had just done 1 month of a 3 month training prog, felt stronger than ever, pushed it a bit too much and BOOM! If it is a pulley it will eventually heal up though but just play it cool for a while. Good luck!
Come clean, was this totally out of the blue, or where there telltale warning signs you chose to ignore?
Indeed, I've just bought this on exactly that topic. It's an interesting read from someone who obviously knows his stuff (Matt Fitzgerald, though Dave Mac is obviously pretty clued up) and the premise is exactly what you've said there my friend.
You've just highlighted the telltale signs, getting stronger and pulling on smaller holds. Almost everyone magically expects to be able to place increased load through their fingers without any consequences and no-one seems prepared to take it easy with their newly acquired strength.Good luck with the recovery.