[gremlin]

While climbing indoors last night and pulling on a crimpy side-pull my right index finger made a loud popping noise (or was it more like a cracking noise?) . I stopped climbing and went home.

Anyway, the finger seems not too bad this morning. I iced last night and there is no swelling but the joint feels a little stiff. There is almost no pain either but I've not tried to put any load on it.

Anyone got any ideas? Is it joint, tendon, pully? I'm a bit non plusssed!

[slackline]

If there is no swelling and it doesn't hurt could it simply have been your knuckles cracking as its the joint that feels stiff?

[Drew]

I believe it depends on how it feels when pulling in certain grip types. If it hurts full crimp, I'm pretty sure it's the pulley. Don't try dead hanging though. Normally just crimping the edge of a table, and gently pulling against it should show the problem.

[gremlin]

If there is no swelling and it doesn't hurt could it simply have been your knuckles cracking as its the joint that feels stiff?

Possibly. It was quite a loud crack though and did hurt a little immediately after the incident. I'm loathe to put any weight on it though and test it out. This is a new one for me and I want to do the right thing if at all possible and rest it if that's what you wise people think is required. 

[gremlin]

I believe it depends on how it feels when pulling in certain grip types. If it hurts full crimp, I'm pretty sure it's the pulley. Don't try dead hanging though. Normally just crimping the edge of a table, and gently pulling against it should show the problem.

Just tried this and yes, there is definate pain in the joint and in the portion after the joint extending to the next joint at end of the finger!  Shit!Shit!Shit!Shit!Shit!Shit!Shit!Shit! There goes my long weekend of climbing.

[Steamboat Stello]

Welcome to the club dude! Time to consult the multiple threads on here, look at Dave Mac's website, read the cadaver research and generally depress yourself! I'm just now getting fully back to full power after a nasty partial rupture on paint it black in early October. Ice-water, massage and open-handing everything for 3 months was the key for me.

[TobyD]

If it hurts full crimp, I'm pretty sure it's the pulley.

Just tried this and yes, there is definate pain in the joint and in the portion after the joint extending to the next joint at end of the finger! 

it could also be collateral ligaments. Or several other things, but essentially: ice it, rest for a week minimum, possibly longer, than if you are a restrained person start VERY easy climbing. indoor jugs usually work for me.  <6a first session, NOT steep type of thing. ice it after, and take it steady.

[Nibile]

Also, think about investing some money to get a perfect diagnosis and maybe also a specific treatment. Could be money very well spent.
Be patient and get well soon.

[rodma]

If it hurts full crimp, I'm pretty sure it's the pulley.

Just tried this and yes, there is definate pain in the joint and in the portion after the joint extending to the next joint at end of the finger! 

it could also be collateral ligaments. Or several other things, but essentially: ice it, rest for a week minimum, possibly longer, than if you are a restrained person start VERY easy climbing. indoor jugs usually work for me.  <6a first session, NOT steep type of thing. ice it after, and take it steady.

And remember, at least it's only a finger, if you had done similar damage to your shoulder you'd be doing f'all for the next few months, other than wincing every time you get out of bed/get dressed/take your jacket off etc.

[GCW]

I'll have to default to my usual position of:  rest + get it looked at.

[gremlin]

Thanks for the advice and best wishes one and all 

Anyone know a specialist in the Northwest who I can consult?

Annoying thing is, I was starting to see improvements in my climbing before this happened. I'd got my weight down and my strength up 

[Steamboat Stello]

Annoying thing is, I was starting to see improvements in my climbing before this happened. I'd got my weight down and my strength up 

Exactly the same as me! Had just done 1 month of a 3 month training prog, felt stronger than ever,  pushed it a bit too much and BOOM! If it is a pulley it will eventually heal up though but just play it cool for a while. Good luck!

[rodma]

Annoying thing is, I was starting to see improvements in my climbing before this happened. I'd got my weight down and my strength up 

Exactly the same as me! Had just done 1 month of a 3 month training prog, felt stronger than ever,  pushed it a bit too much and BOOM! If it is a pulley it will eventually heal up though but just play it cool for a while. Good luck!

When you look back on these events, you'll see the obvious correlation between them. It's desperately hard not to overuse newly acquired strengths, in fact it has been the limiting factor in my climbing to date (I don't think i can count being Scottish as a disability, although many do)

[SA Chris]

It's all part of the learning process. I don't know a climber who hasn't injured themselves overtraining and when they felt they were getting strong.

Come clean, was this totally out of the blue, or where there telltale warning signs you chose to ignore?

[rodma]

Come clean, was this totally out of the blue, or where there telltale warning signs you chose to ignore?

Annoying thing is, I was starting to see improvements in my climbing before this happened. I'd got my weight down and my strength up 

 

[Nibile]

I am no expert in this, but losing weight during a load cycle or a heavy training session is not a very good way to do it.
I've read that one should lose weight in a pre-training phase, in which the training is aimed to losing weight. then the "real" training with the "new" weight will start. I think that high intensity training does not go along well with the reduced caloric intake that's essential to lose weight.
anyway, off topic sorry.

[mrjonathanr]

Indeed, I've just bought this on exactly that topic.  It's an interesting read from someone who obviously knows his stuff (Matt Fitzgerald, though Dave Mac is obviously pretty clued up) and the premise is exactly what you've said there my friend.

Might be give you something to keep busy Gremlin, especially if that finger's going to need more than a couple of weeks of rest (and they usually do I'm afraid, but they also heal if you let them). Good luck.

[gremlin]

Just to clarfy: I wasn't following any particular training plan, just 2 to 3 times per week as usual (or weigh loss plan for that matter either). The weight has been slowly coming off and I've gone from nearly 13st to 12st in about twelve months (so no crash dieting).

As for any tell tale signs of pending injury, I can't think of any. I've got the usual bit of tendonitus in my left elbow but it's a finger on my right hand that's the issue.

I have been climbing on smaller holds lately as the grades go up but I always try to open hand them as opposed to crimp to try to prevent just this sort of thing! 

[Nibile]

Indeed, I've just bought this on exactly that topic.  It's an interesting read from someone who obviously knows his stuff (Matt Fitzgerald, though Dave Mac is obviously pretty clued up) and the premise is exactly what you've said there my friend.

That's probably 'cos I read it there!

[rodma]

You've just highlighted the telltale signs, getting stronger and pulling on smaller holds. Almost everyone magically expects to be able to place increased load through their fingers without any consequences and no-one seems prepared to take it easy with their newly acquired strength.

Good luck with the recovery.

[gremlin]

You've just highlighted the telltale signs, getting stronger and pulling on smaller holds. Almost everyone magically expects to be able to place increased load through their fingers without any consequences and no-one seems prepared to take it easy with their newly acquired strength.

Good luck with the recovery.

I guess it's just human nature to want to push the grade all the time. If I'm guilty of anything it's of being human!

Looking on the bright side I can still ride my motor bike so there's a small crunb of comfort. No climbing and no biking, now that would be depressing! 

[Nibile]

weights, weights and more weights.

[rodma]

That's the spirit, there's still tons you can do and like nibs said lift weights (assuming it doesn't load the damaged tissue too much)

The more general stuff you can do, the quicker you are likely to recover, assuming that you have sufficient self control.

[gremlin]

Don't think weights are going to be possible as the finger is a bit tender, but I guess I could work on getting the left side of my upper body as strong as my right?

[Nibile]

You can do loads without stressing your finger. A good stiff taping and mostly pushing exercises would do!!! Also, working your weak arm is always a good idea. And most gyms have a special wrist band with a hook attached, that some of the big guys use to do long sets of leg raises from the pull up bar: you could use them to do pull ups and other pulling exercises with the right side also.
You can do chest press, triceps, shoulders and biceps without stressing the finger, so...