[Greg C]

Below are all the none fictional V15/8c's in the world, and I have found how many moves are on three anyone else know the amount of moves on the others? So we can find out which problem is the hardest in the world in terms of oure difficulty of moves...

8C Zunami Saalachtal Austria - 12 moves  :!:
8C Byaku-dou Hourai Japan - 22 moves  :!:
8C Trip hop Fontainebleau France  Sebastien Frigault  - ? moves
8C l'anarchiste St Anne France  Philip Moser - ? moves
8C New base line Magic Wood Switzerland  Bernd Zangerl - ? moves
8C Transdendenz Sachsen Germany  Thomas Willenberg - ? moves
8C Walk away sd Fairy steps United Kingdom  John Gaskins  - 6 moves  :!:
8C Viva la evolution Flirsch Austria  Bernd Zangerl  - ? moves
8C Black eagle SD Rocklands South Africa  Frederic Nicole  - ? moves
8C Amazonia Fontainebleau France  Francis Hélias - ? moves
8C Gossip DEU: Frankenjura Germany  Markus Bock - ? moves
8C Banshousha Ogawayama Crystal Slab Japan  Tokio Muroi  - ? moves
8C Dreamtime Cresciano Switzerland  Frederic Nicole - ? moves

Greg  :

[ian h]

dreamtime is 20+ moves.

did black eagle not drop to 8b+

wot about that new shwaiger thing :?:

[ian h]

oh that zunami is the shwaiger one is it

new base line is 11 moves

and looking at the bleau info site amazonia and trip hop are traverses.

[Doylo]

Gossip is probably about 6 moves. I think Amazonia is probably a traverse and therefore gets a font traverse grade and therefore doesn't count.  I reckon theres a couple of dodgy ones on that list. I've seen Gossip, New Base Line and Walk Away which are all in the lower move category and i reckon walk away looked the hardest but what the hell do i know! :?

[Doylo]

Trip Hop isn't really a traverse. It traverses a couple of moves into hip hop sit start, 8b+.

[ian h]

trip hop thats the one traverses into the straight up hip hop

zangerl rekons viva la ........ is harder than dream time.

[Percy B]

A crucial hold (as in the only thing you could call a hold!) on Black Eagle at Rocklands has broken, so I don't know if its still possible. Looked friggin' nails even with holds on, so may now be a bit harder!

[dobbin]

Think Dreamtime is 22 moves from the sitter.

[squeek]

22 moves is longer than most of the routes I do.
A lot of these really hard climbs just seem to be
a steep bit of rock with loads of moves, apart from
walk away.  What is "Monk's life" like, is that a straight
up problem?  how many moves?

[dave]

i think the tendancy when pushing the limits os for the hardest problems to be long.
say you get to the stage of bouldering a certain standard, (problems with hard 1 move at your limit), well then often the easiest way to get the next degree of difficulty is to do a problem with 2 moves at your limit, rather then trying to break the treashold of doing 1 even harder move.

it like if you look at the graded list in the peak boldering guide, up to 6a/6b theres loads of straight up problems, but then almost every other B7 and B8 as a traverse. i thnk thats cos people could get up to 6b standard ok and the next step was doing sustained 6b cis 6c might have been unobtainable.

does that make sense?

[Bubba]

does that make sense?

Nailhead, meet hammer.

[Adam Lincoln]

22 moves is longer than most of the routes I do.
A lot of these really hard climbs just seem to be
a steep bit of rock with loads of moves, apart from
walk away.  What is "Monk's life" like, is that a straight
up problem?  how many moves?

Monks Life is 4 or 5 moves. Though its V14 not V15...

Andy Earl was very close to getting the first ascent, so should get the 2nd soon

[Greg C]

I suspect that Monk Life has probably got harder moves on it than quite few of these foreign V15's and would probably get V15 in Switzerland or Japan... come on the Brits

[Greg C]

How many moves does Si O'Connors thing on Alpha Centauri have?  :wink:

[AndyR]

I suspect that Monk Life has probably got harder moves on it than quite few of these foreign V15's and would probably get V15 in Switzerland or Japan... come on the Brits

Yeah, disapointing lack of UK stuff and a lot of teutonic activity.  Is there really nothing in the US??

[dave]

now i don't know kyloe-up-the-bum very well, but would it theoretically be possible for some powerhouse to do one of malcs 8b traverses into monks life for a potential font 9a linkup? anyone?

[Greg C]

Don`t know about Kyloe thing, but you could climb Cloning Tech into Kaizan at Woodwell that might give you a V16, if you fancy?  :shock: Be a rubbish problem mind!

I like shooting all these grades about, it makes me feel both big and clever!!  :

[ian h]

bit dodgy comparing these probs as on the list there is a spread of roof,slab,wall and traverses. :?

did nadiras say if dreamtime were in font it would struggle to get 8b+. ang that his chaos was harder than d t :roll:

[Greg C]

Surely it does not matter, as a single English 7b move is still 7b as the angle is merely factor in the logistics of pulling off and grading the move, and we are just trying to see which problem has the least moves ergo the hardest individual moves to obtain its tag of V15.

Jesus that nearly makes sense... nearly?

There I go again throwing all those big grades around, boy do I feel good about myself  :wink:

[ian h]

point taken.

loskot never graded emotional landscapes did he.

so what we got so far

walk away 6
gossip 6?
new base line 11
zunami 12
byaku dou 22
dream time 22

viva la .......... harder than dream time?
black eagle unrepeated since hold went?
amazonia traverse disqualified?
are we counting s o'c extradition?

so that leaves

l'anarchiste
transdendenz
banshousha
trip hop

[dave]

from the photos of banshousha i imagine its around the 10 move mark. maybe.

[squeek]

Not to stop you from feeling so good, but just as a little point, the
news update e-mail you've just sent out is linked to lakesbloc.com which doesn't work.    :wink:

But thanks for the news.   :D

I was asking about Monks life because it was thrown about by a few people that it could have been given 8c/V15, as he's been trying it for
10 years, and he's done 8bs and stuff whilst he's been on holiday in a
few days.

V15 is all just silly talk to me anyway. C'mon V5

[Greg C]

Cheers for that, not much hope for me I don`t even know my own site address.

This is all getting very interesting and dull at the same time, amazing!
By the way what exactly counts as a move? Is it just a hand movement (Ohhh matron!) or does moving feet count as well?  :?

[ian h]

good question.

i personally measure by hand moves.

[a dense loner]

this is ok for probs that are graded v15. for every 5 overgraders there is one undergrader. not sayin any of these probs r overgraded but u get my gist.  :? i know that jeffries problem in joes valley hasn't been repeated from standup, never mind sitdown. now he's not claimin his problem is v15 but the standup is v12/13, n the sitdowns the crux. along the same lines as walk away. fred, klem et al have all tried it. he doesn't want to go grade chasin, normally the way when u can do most of them anyway . there must be more people like this who aren't givin the big grades but r certainly doin them.
but this has nothin to do with how many moves r on probs, sorry.