[ian h]

rekon we generally know about it if someone is out there doing problems of that difficulty.

[Adam Lincoln]

this is ok for probs that are graded v15. for every 5 overgraders there is one undergrader. not sayin any of these probs r overgraded but u get my gist.  :? i know that jeffries problem in joes valley hasn't been repeated from standup, never mind sitdown. now he's not claimin his problem is v15 but the standup is v12/13, n the sitdowns the crux. along the same lines as walk away. fred, klem et al have all tried it. he doesn't want to go grade chasin, normally the way when u can do most of them anyway . there must be more people like this who aren't givin the big grades but r certainly doin them.
but this has nothin to do with how many moves r on probs, sorry.

Is that  called No Additives? If so, then Monsieur Sharma has repeated it.

[Doylo]

Nadiras told me Dreamtime would defo only be 8b+ in font. Monks Life gotta be 8c really hasn't it! It took him ten years for gods sake :shock:

[Pantontino]

It may have taken 10 years, but he wasn't seiging it (only a couple of genuine attempts each year)and the crux is pretty inaccessible (i.e you can't top rope it experiment with sequences).

I think its cool if we have hard grades. Steve Gough made some comment on CT recently about everything being overgraded in the UK. I'd like to see Monk Life get down graded - no chance Johnny Euro fag!

[vivahate]

is there any footy of monk's life, i've only seen one pic of malc on the problem. Or any more pictures?

[Greg C]

Just on the point of cutting edge problems getting down graded and forgoten about as new harder things come along, didn`t "Slashface" at Heuco get V14 when was done but now gets V13 and you never hear much about it  :?

Off the point again, I noticed on CT yesterday in some hilarious thread about the grade of some B6 (Tiger) at Burbage, that there was some know-it-all banging on about how the same problem would be V0 in Yosemite because gradings way harder over there. That is bollocks the grading is the same as everywhere else in the world i.e. Problems in the classic areas such as Camp Four are way hard, but if you go to the other areas like Curry Village / Sentinal Rocks the problems are much easier for their given grades, its just a case everone wants to get the visitors spanked on the first outing. Which is how it should be  

[Doylo]

I thought Slashface was still regarded as V14, there's a cool video of Matt Birch doing it somewhere on the net

[Doylo]

I take it winter has brought an end to your explorations in the lakes Greg? What you bin up to conker?

[Greg C]

No not really its just I been out on the grit of late and I can't be in two places at once, unfortunately!

Not been fairing that well on the grit so I might head back to the source that is central Lakes bouldering...
Still got plenty to do at St. Bees and Tilberthwaite as well as some secret stuff I can`t go telling you about on the net.  :wink:
Also got to go and repaet a few of Gaskins's new problems at Warton as they sound really good, be some thing for Nigel to get his teeth into over xmas.

Have a good one if I don`t speak to you before.

[squeek]

Didn't a lot of the hard problems in america, V10 and above get put up by Jerry, moon, Nicole? (Vickers as well?) Hence they aren't going to be harder/easier than their problems in Europe?  This might just be a article about Bishop that I read, rather than west america, so I might be wrong (as of course could the article!)

[ian h]

was just looking at the video of anarchiste on zebloc.

anybody else think those pockets look a bit big for an 8c.

suppose its difficult to tell.

[Bubba]

I know what you mean, but I bet they're BIG moves between them on very steep ground. Like you say, hard to tell until you see it in the flesh, innit?

[vivahate]

i always find it dead weird seeing problems in the flesh after seeing them on video/in a picture. They never look the same at all. I always find with clubs that i have never been to i build up a mental picture of what its going to be like, but its NEVER anything like what i thought

[Bubba]

Absolutely - that video on this site of the big dyno at the Roaches makes it look ok, but when you get on it, it just looks enormous!

The weirdest one is meeting people that you've only known via forums/email/etc - they always turn out completely different to how you had them pictured.

Clubs can be entirely different just depending on the people there that night...

[dave]

The weirdest one is meeting people that you've only known via forums/email/etc - they always turn out completely different to how you had them pictured...

tell me about it - i had you down as a busty blonde chick. Talk about a dissapointment.

[Bubba]

I can wear a wig and some false tits if that'd help   :D

No, let's not go there  :D

[Greg C]

In reply to the Owen...
I`ll drop Angel Deelite down to V5 when you Welsh boyz drop "The Pinch" at the Sheep Pen boulders down like wise. At least AD never got V8, ha!

Greg

[Pantontino]

I thought AD was V6, but I did manage to get my left foot really high on the crux, and sort of rolled over the top, going again with my left hand. Awesome problem though.

I find the first move on the Pinch desperate - it feels solid V7 to me, but I've seen plenty people walk it.

[Greg C]

Yeah AD is generally regarded as V6 these days, and The Pinch probably is V7, I just get fed up with smart arses dissing AD because its one grade out, still an amazing problem as is The Pinch. People seem to forget grades are a lot to do with personal opinion, the fact is AD took me about five goes and I flashed The Pinch. Does this mean the grades are wrong? I don't think so.

[Doylo]

Plus you did do the first ascent of AD and were only one grade out, mind you it should have been downgraded when i flashed it last century. As for the pinch not exactly shite at dynos are u gregory :wink: Have a gud xmas

[Nigel]

Shag.

What everyone is forgetting is that Andy Earl didn't flash AD, despite flashing Art of Self Destruction half an hour earlier. Therefore the only logical explanation is that AD is V12, or at least hard V11.

More seriously, no-one really knows unless they've topped it out...

Btw back home now.

[Doylo]

Also Gaskins fell off it that time Greg was there, gaskins can't fall off anything easier than V10 being a V15 climber an all so you must be right, AD must be at least v11. However thst brings us to one small problem- Spideys done it :shock: Spideys a v11 beast!

[AndyR]

Also Gaskins fell off it that time Greg was there, gaskins can't fall off anything easier than V10 being a V15 climber an all so you must be right, AD must be at least v11. However thst brings us to one small problem- Spideys done it :shock: Spideys a v11 beast!

I know it's very small minded and everything, but the more mean spirited members of the irish bouldering community (well, me anyway!) did have a wry smile on their face when John Gaskins fell a good few times off a classic V4 up in glenmacnass - it gives us all hope  

[Rhys]

I was up at the Sheep Pen today- I had a couple of goes on The Pinch and it seemed quite hard, at least compared to Kingdom of Rain which I touched the top on my maiden go, gave it another quick go then went home. Both great problems.

[dave]

when i did them in '02 i got pinch in about a dozen goes (or so my menory flatters me) and kingdom took loads and loads, didn' think i was gonne do it - i know which one felt harder to me!