Yep, I'm as convinced rouhling pulled it off as the guys from climbing magazine.As for Fernandez, I believe he could have.But he had some issues with his other routes as well, seem to remember.Anyhow, Chilean balsam story herehttp://novebi.ning.com/group/villanuevadelrosario/forum/topics/chilam-balam
Hamish Potokar (sp?) did voyager today
Billy Ridal did Careless Torque too.
Is Billy a yoof or is Careless Torque still considered a significant repeat? Its becoming a bit of a trade route with the highball approach.Out of interest, if the start is 8A how hard is the finish up the arete after you've got stood up?
It always felt like 8a to me, though folks use a slightly different foothold now. It is significantly harder if you're short (shorter than me - eg 5'6" like Caff).
Quote from: Johnny Brown on January 04, 2015, 07:37:49 pmIt always felt like 8a to me, though folks use a slightly different foothold now. It is significantly harder if you're short (shorter than me - eg 5'6" like Caff).Interesting as I thought getting the high foot would have been easier for the short as you're less bunched.
Quote from: cha1n on January 04, 2015, 07:54:22 pmQuote from: Johnny Brown on January 04, 2015, 07:37:49 pmIt always felt like 8a to me, though folks use a slightly different foothold now. It is significantly harder if you're short (shorter than me - eg 5'6" like Caff).Interesting as I thought getting the high foot would have been easier for the short as you're less bunched.Every time I've tried it its felt ultra bunched. And obviously I usually expect to give Stanage 8a fairly short shrift.