[finbarrr]

Yep, I'm as convinced rouhling pulled it off as the guys from climbing magazine.

As for Fernandez, I believe he could have.
But he had some issues with his other routes as well, seem to remember.
Anyhow, Chilean balsam story here
http://novebi.ning.com/group/villanuevadelrosario/forum/topics/chilam-balam

[rodma]

It's videos like this that made me doubt some claims.
It shows only the end of pierre philosophale (just over half way through the video ) from after where even I have managed it from, which is well past the crux

[finbarrr]

I hope that that video wasn't intended as proof of anything

Yep, I'm as convinced rouhling pulled it off as the guys from climbing magazine.

As for Fernandez, I believe he could have.
But he had some issues with his other routes as well, seem to remember.
Anyhow, Chilean balsam story here
http://novebi.ning.com/group/villanuevadelrosario/forum/topics/chilam-balam

Just saw what my awesome automatic-iPad-spellcheck-and-improvement software made of chilam balam 

[rodma]

It used to be here, but only showed from the same point as the other video, so only showed the linkup into the 6a exit.

I was trying it a few years ago so was looking for beta for the crux and only found this video (other than the arty footage of the first ascent). Don't know why the video isn't playable anymore unless it's because it only shows the exit.

[finbarrr]

 Why does that line see so few repeats?
Seems like a workable classic pure line.
I'd try it if I were into that kinda thing

as it is, I really enjoyed the stand

[jwi]

« Plus un fait est extraordinaire, plus il a besoin d'être appuyé de fortes preuves », and every clip I've seen of FR on hard stuff makes me more sceptical...

[abarro81]

Not a repeat, but Klemen Becan might have onsighted 8c+ in Chulilla. Was a project so just a guessed grade by locals who'd been on it apparently. If it is 8c+, is that the 5th person to do so (Ondra, Megos, Patxi, Ramon) or did I miss anyone?

[jwi]

Magnus Midtbø? Or is Cosi fan tutte 8c these days?

[abarro81]

Oh yeah, forgot about that. No-one's downgraded that I know of. So 5 plus maybe Kleman. Any more I've forgotten?

[Doylo]

Shark

[abarro81]

Hamish Potokar (sp?) did voyager today

[andy popp]

Fantastic effort - I'd heard he got quite close last weekend (spelling is right).

[monkey boy]

Billy Ridal did Careless Torque too.

[Duma]

Hamish Potokar (sp?) did voyager today

Brilliant effort, just saw his dad at the wall, really chuffed. Two sessions, a quick one last week and then today. Top effort driving up from Bristol at 630 this morning too!

[Will Hunt]

Billy Ridal did Careless Torque too.

Is Billy a yoof or is Careless Torque still considered a significant repeat? Its becoming a bit of a trade route with the highball approach.

Out of interest, if the start is 8A how hard is the finish up the arete after you've got stood up?

[cha1n]

Is Billy a yoof or is Careless Torque still considered a significant repeat? Its becoming a bit of a trade route with the highball approach.

Out of interest, if the start is 8A how hard is the finish up the arete after you've got stood up?

The yoof who did Careless Torque today was fairly young I think. I'm not good at guessing ages but he was there with his dad, maybe 16 as complete guess? Very humble lad though, very polite. Was easily doing the start and dropped the top part a few times whilst I was there.

There was so many pads I thought it'd be rude not to jump on, checked when I got back and there's a wild country vid that states that the bottom section is 8A and the top is 7B+ arete, a lad trying it today said the bottom was 7C+ though.

Great effort from Hamish too, another down to earth yoof from the Bristol scene!

[monkey boy]

Billy is 17 I think, same age as Alex.

I thought Careless was 7C/+ into 7B+/C but I could be making that up.

[Doylo]

The start always used to be called 8A but might have come down now kids and women are doing it  .

[Johnny Brown]

It always felt like 8a to me, though folks use a slightly different foothold now. It is significantly harder if you're short (shorter than me - eg 5'6" like Caff).

[cha1n]

It always felt like 8a to me, though folks use a slightly different foothold now. It is significantly harder if you're short (shorter than me - eg 5'6" like Caff).

Interesting as I thought getting the high foot would have been easier for the short as you're less bunched.

[a dense loner]

Do people still jump from the boulder or does everyone do it from stacked pads now so you miss out the first move?

[cha1n]

I was jumping from the boulder, some other yoof was trying it off of a pad or two using a sidepull lower than the one you jump to. Personally, it seemed harder off of the stacked pads. Obviously if you stack pads so you could reach the good hold then that'd be cheating!

I didn't see how billy started it.

[dave]

It always felt like 8a to me, though folks use a slightly different foothold now. It is significantly harder if you're short (shorter than me - eg 5'6" like Caff).

Interesting as I thought getting the high foot would have been easier for the short as you're less bunched.

Every time I've tried it its felt ultra bunched. And obviously I usually expect to give Stanage 8a fairly short shrift.

[dave]

It always felt like 8a to me, though folks use a slightly different foothold now. It is significantly harder if you're short (shorter than me - eg 5'6" like Caff).

Interesting as I thought getting the high foot would have been easier for the short as you're less bunched.

Every time I've tried it its felt ultra bunched. And obviously I usually expect to give Stanage 8a fairly short shrift.

[monkey boy]

It always felt like 8a to me, though folks use a slightly different foothold now. It is significantly harder if you're short (shorter than me - eg 5'6" like Caff).

Interesting as I thought getting the high foot would have been easier for the short as you're less bunched.

Every time I've tried it its felt ultra bunched. And obviously I usually expect to give Stanage 8a fairly short shrift.

Agreed! I have tried it very little but most people seem to say the bottom is easier for the short and the top easier for the tall.