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Blind Ali (Read 22324 times)

dave

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#25 Re: Blind Ali
December 03, 2008, 04:12:27 pm
mike lea once told me he matched the undercut - MONSTA!

T_B

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#26 Re: Blind Ali
December 03, 2008, 04:14:37 pm
Everyone I've seen do or try Blind Ali has not reached back to the Submergance starting jug.
You can reach the Blind Date rail by either crossing under from the lip to the undercut then out to the rail, or by holding the lip with your left and flicking out to the rail from there. (a lush move).

Cool, understood. Funny that I've never seen anyone do this problem despite spending far too much time on this chunk of rock  :-[

Johnny Brown

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#27 Re: Blind Ali
December 03, 2008, 07:11:00 pm
Ditto. I've never even tried it. Could it be because traversing is log?

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#28 Re: Blind Ali
December 03, 2008, 07:29:02 pm
Ditto. I've never even tried it. Could it be because traversing is log?
You sound like Dense. You miss out on some of the best holds and moves on grit by not going sideways. Try it, you might like it.

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#29 Re: Blind Ali
December 03, 2008, 07:32:00 pm
Ditto. I've never even tried it. Could it be because traversing is log?

Could it be because you're log at traversing?

No-one ever became king of remergence by NOT doing this problem.

Johnny Brown

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#30 Re: Blind Ali
December 03, 2008, 08:37:44 pm
Who the fuck would want to be King of Remergence? What a hollow crown that would be.

nik at work

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#31 Re: Blind Ali
December 03, 2008, 08:39:49 pm
Aren't all crowns hollow? Otherwise they wouldn't sit on the head properly...

Johnny Brown

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#32 Re: Blind Ali
December 03, 2008, 09:06:20 pm
Of course. But the Remergence crown would be hollow inside as well.

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#33 Re: Blind Ali
December 03, 2008, 09:11:04 pm
it would be like wearing a dog-egg omelette.

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#34 Re: Blind Ali
December 03, 2008, 09:52:08 pm
certainly a fair bit harder then either blind date or submergence.

I would concur.

I day we replace it with a grade which reflects how far from the cafe you are, and how many apples you should bring

 :-\ having had no apples with me, my opinions on the grade probably aren't really that valid.. Must go back and try the apple beta.

dave

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#35 Re: Blind Ali
December 03, 2008, 10:03:30 pm
no tick unless you're packing a cox and a pink lady.

Bonjoy

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#36 Re: Blind Ali
December 03, 2008, 10:17:05 pm
it would be like wearing a dog-egg omelette.
You made me spit on my screen

Andy B

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#37 Re: Blind Ali
December 03, 2008, 10:19:02 pm
Who the fuck would want to be King of Remergence?

Me.

Remergence is one of the best bouldering buttresses in the peak. It's even better than minus ten!

dave

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#38 Re: Blind Ali
December 03, 2008, 10:23:43 pm
its certainly the best in yorkshire.

andy popp

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#39 Re: Blind Ali
December 04, 2008, 08:21:20 am
the Remergence crown would be hollow inside as well.

I'd like to see something that was hollow on the outside

dave

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#40 Re: Blind Ali
December 04, 2008, 09:23:55 am
maybe JB is operating in some kinda curved spacetime shit.

Nigel

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#41 Re: Blind Ali
December 04, 2008, 02:19:17 pm
Who the fuck would want to be King of Remergence? What a hollow crown that would be.

Ooops sorry I forgot, can't have anyone seeing the bald patch!

"Fully covered crown for Mr Brown please!"

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#42 Re: Blind Ali
January 26, 2009, 09:14:52 am
What's the dealio with the last move folks? I have read all the above replies but when I was trying it for the first time yesterday, I couldn't seem to put together a workable sequence to reach right for the big sidepull for the RH under Blind Date. The choices for this last bit seemed to be:

1. Reach down to Submergence starting jug with RH then reach for Blind Date/Fig foothold with LH, snatch in to the razor undercut with RH then get RH onto big ledge and fling for the above mentioned sidepull.

2. Instead of the Blind Date foothold, hold the poorer sloper to its right with LH instead, thereby lessening the reach (didn't work for me).

3. Match the grim razor undercut and reach rightwards to sidepull (also didn't work for me, bit of a left wrist tweaker so keen to avoid this way).

Do you use a left heel/toe cam on the submergence jug to make the reach? If so I am f*cked as I am supposed to be avoiding these moves due to left hamstring issues.

Cheers

T_B

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#43 Re: Blind Ali
January 26, 2009, 09:31:33 am
This advice is by no means definitive as I haven't done this problem but have been watching Rach try it a bit.

You should basically reverse the moves on the pinchy slopers of submergence right of the initial polished crimp, stretching out to use a heel toe with your right foot in the sub jug, allowing you to reach the sharp undercut with your r hand. i think you then sort your feet out and most likely get your left foot on the starting jug of submergence to then get facing the right way and be able to slap your left hand along and thence to the blind date foothold.

reaching the big jug with your hand is a defo no no.

Kingy

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#44 Re: Blind Ali
January 26, 2009, 09:40:31 am
Nice one cheers. Interesting about reaching down to the jug being a faux pas. Does this mean that the guide is not correct in saying that the holds under the roof are in?

Getting the Blind Date foothold with my LH is no problem, its the next move to the Blind Date starting sidepull which has got me stumped.

dobbin

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#45 Re: Blind Ali
January 26, 2009, 10:10:52 am
I went down to the big jug with my hand, claimed the problem but made the mistake of explaining what I did. Only to be shot down in flames for my sequence. Me and my big mouth. Anyway, suffice to say - the jug is not in for hands.

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#46 Re: Blind Ali
January 26, 2009, 10:18:59 am
By 'holds under the roof' I think it means the crimps, undercut and rail but nothing on the back wall. We were trying(/doing, but not me) getting RH on lip or small crimp just under lip then RF toe lock out right on the flake on the back wall where BD starts, come to undercut with LH, bring RF out, drop knee on edge near where it was and then the reach to the rail is easy (cutting the undercut is the crux with this way)

Kingy

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#47 Re: Blind Ali
January 26, 2009, 10:31:46 am
Great thanks for the info guys. I will make sure I don't touch that jug with hands, shame its a bit eliminate.

We were trying(/doing, but not me) getting RH on lip or small crimp just under lip then RF toe lock out right on the flake on the back wall where BD starts, come to undercut with LH, bring RF out, drop knee on edge near where it was and then the reach to the rail is easy (cutting the undercut is the crux with this way)

This method sounds good but I am a little unclear on where toe lock for the RF is that you mention. I don't remember a toe lock possibility on the Blind Date flake, ie. the same hold that you are reaching for with the RH off the razor undercut? Do you mean a toe hook as opposed to a toe lock or possibly putting a toe lock in the submergence starting jug instead?

Also, where exactly in the drop knee? on the big ledge or some other foothold? Thanks again for the beta!

nik at work

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#48 Re: Blind Ali
January 26, 2009, 10:42:36 am
Just to add to the mix I think I got the BD rail with my RH with my LH on the sharp undercut. Had a RF far out right and twisted into it making the reach to the rail pretty easy. In fact re-reading sounds like I did it the same as Mr 81. So I'll shut up now. But agree that getting the undercut was the hard bit rather than reaching the rail.

abarro81

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#49 Re: Blind Ali
January 26, 2009, 10:44:22 am
sorry i mean - the RF is a heel-toe to come into the undercut with LH - rather than a toe lock.
If you look at the BD rail under the lip, on the back wall level with it (in horizontal terms) is all the stuff you use for feet on BD and BF.. the higher section of this (above the ledgy bit but still on the back wall) has a flake thingy (facing R and slightly down) which it's possible to get a bit of a heel-toe/toe hook thang with your RF (I had to put my LF on a little edge on the corner of this section of rock to get the toe to work).
Once you have LH undercut, take the RF out, swap to where my LF was and LF down low on ledgey stuff back further L, dropping R knee, thus enabling you to reach to the BD rail easy peasy.
(The bit you use to drop knee on is almost on the vague arete on the higher section of rock, furthest out from the back wall but quite high.. I use it on BD/BF to release the swing with as little momentum as possible (as it's further out) but i'm not sure how to explain better than that. There's a reason why I spend my day playing with numbers rather than explaining things!

 

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