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Blind Ali (Read 22243 times)

Steve R

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Blind Ali
December 02, 2008, 07:43:47 pm
What does the Rule Book say about starting this problem?  We were starting left hand on the polished crimp right hand on the sloper a little to the right, which felt potentially 1 move in to the problem if you're of a strict disposition.  Guess it would make little difference to overall difficulty?  Though could be wrong as none of us actually did that move!  Anyway, had some nice moves on it I thought and don't usually dig going sideways that much.  Whilst about it, what's the score number wise?  Think it's 7b+ in ru's but just seen it's given V10 in BMC definititve....?

uptown

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#1 Re: Blind Ali
December 02, 2008, 08:48:14 pm
What does the Rule Book say about starting this problem?  We were starting left hand on the polished crimp right hand on the sloper a little to the right, which felt potentially 1 move in to the problem if you're of a strict disposition.  Guess it would make little difference to overall difficulty?  Though could be wrong as none of us actually did that move!  Anyway, had some nice moves on it I thought and don't usually dig going sideways that much.  Whilst about it, what's the score number wise?  Think it's 7b+ in ru's but just seen it's given V10 in BMC definititve....?

Zaff started it on the last two submergence holds. I don't know how Jason did it. 7b+/7c seems thereabouts from what I remember. Good problem. More people should be going sideways.

Bonjoy

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#2 Re: Blind Ali
December 02, 2008, 08:56:28 pm
Zaff also stayed on the lip right to the end making the last move the (reachy)crux. The probably more sensible drop down to undercuts that most people do nowadays renderers it a bit easier than the original 7b+/7c

Steve R

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#3 Re: Blind Ali
December 02, 2008, 09:09:34 pm
Zaff started it on the last two submergence holds.

Cool, that's how we started so I guess I'll award myself a tick.  Just leaves more or less everything else on this block to do then!

abarro81

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#4 Re: Blind Ali
December 03, 2008, 12:17:37 am
Whilst we're on the topic (and everything else is covered n snow, and being inspired by Dan's talk of link-ups at the foundry)... How hard do peeps think blind ali into blind date would be? Long live link ups!

Drew

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#5 Re: Blind Ali
December 03, 2008, 12:29:04 am

uptown

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#6 Re: Blind Ali
December 03, 2008, 08:41:58 am
Whilst we're on the topic (and everything else is covered n snow, and being inspired by Dan's talk of link-ups at the foundry)... How hard do peeps think blind ali into blind date would be? Long live link ups!
I remember Iain doing this back in the day - 7c/7c+ maybe?
My old link-up project was Blind Ali - Blind fig - lip reverse - arete slopers finish. Anyone done this yet? 8a I reckoned.
Agree to disagree
At least you're a fan of sideways travel?
« Last Edit: December 03, 2008, 08:59:23 am by uptownguru »

uptown

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#7 Re: Blind Ali
December 03, 2008, 08:43:41 am
:thumbsdown: :wank: Link ups

Actually I can see your point looking at that - Rant on should know better.
« Last Edit: December 03, 2008, 08:54:37 am by uptownguru »

dave

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#8 Re: Blind Ali
December 03, 2008, 08:49:55 am
i had a go at the blind ali-date link a couple of years ago, fell off matching the slots on blind date. not had a go since but i rate it as good quality, probably 7c or 7c+ i thought.

Andy B

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#9 Re: Blind Ali
December 03, 2008, 09:17:09 am
Zaff also stayed on the lip right to the end making the last move the (reachy)crux. The probably more sensible drop down to undercuts that most people do nowadays renderers it a bit easier than the original 7b+/7c

I've done this both ways, and it doesn't make a great deal of difference. Staying on the lip isn't massively reachy, and would only make a significant difference if your arms are too short to be able to tuck in under the roof and get your weight over the big ledge at the back. You are virtually in the same body position either way. I've talked about this with you previously bonjoy, glad to see you were paying attention  ;)

Kingy

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#10 Re: Blind Ali
December 03, 2008, 09:23:59 am
I saw the mighty Garth Millar attempting to link Blind Ali into Blind Fig. Thankfully, he had the good grace to fail after the sloper match but looked pretty damn solid all the way along!

dave

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#11 Re: Blind Ali
December 03, 2008, 09:33:00 am
another good potential linkup would be reverse blind ali into submergence. would suit almscliff types too cos its mainly downhill.

uptown

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#12 Re: Blind Ali
December 03, 2008, 09:33:56 am
I'm on my way...

Kingy

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#13 Re: Blind Ali
December 03, 2008, 09:36:04 am
Or you could do Blind Ali into Blind Date and reverse Ron's Traverse  :thumbsup:

uptown

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#14 Re: Blind Ali
December 03, 2008, 09:37:41 am
I saw the mighty Garth Millar attempting to link Blind Ali into Blind Fig.

Can we call this "slaughtering the fig of ignorance"?

Kingy

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#15 Re: Blind Ali
December 03, 2008, 09:39:58 am
Can we call this "slaughtering the fig of ignorance"?

Sure, I don't see why not!

dave

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#16 Re: Blind Ali
December 03, 2008, 09:44:26 am
good name. i'd have been tempted by Figour Mortis.

Bonjoy

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#17 Re: Blind Ali
December 03, 2008, 01:09:08 pm
Zaff also stayed on the lip right to the end making the last move the (reachy)crux. The probably more sensible drop down to undercuts that most people do nowadays renderers it a bit easier than the original 7b+/7c

I've done this both ways, and it doesn't make a great deal of difference. Staying on the lip isn't massively reachy, and would only make a significant difference if your arms are too short to be able to tuck in under the roof and get your weight over the big ledge at the back. You are virtually in the same body position either way. I've talked about this with you previously bonjoy, glad to see you were paying attention  ;)
I only said a bit easier. For what it's worth it seems more soft 7b+ to me

dave

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#18 Re: Blind Ali
December 03, 2008, 01:26:24 pm
i thought bind ali one of the harder 7b+s going. certainly a fair bit harder then either blind date or submergence.

Stu Littlefair

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#19 Re: Blind Ali
December 03, 2008, 02:18:28 pm
Oh no! The font grade us clearly broken. I day we replace it with a grade which reflects how far from the cafe you are, and how many apples you should bring

dave

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#20 Re: Blind Ali
December 03, 2008, 02:49:01 pm
we should maybe give it a grade that indicates if it was rotated 90degrees to form an upright arete what E-grade it would get if it that arete formed the crux section of a route.. i'd give it E4 (+).

T_B

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#21 Re: Blind Ali
December 03, 2008, 03:52:02 pm
I'd never heard of Blind Ali until recently and couldn't work it out from the guidebook.

So just to confirm is it..

Start on the two polished crimps of Submergence
Use the open-handed sloper lip pinch to reach back to the jug at the start of Submergence
Use that dead sharp undercut and painful heelhook to reach the crimpy rail that you start Bling Date with your left hand on
Somehow get from here into the crack by midget-ledge shuffling?

I've done Blind Date from the Submergence jug which is a fab and logical problem, though I'm not sure it makes Blind Date that much harder?

cofe

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#22 Re: Blind Ali
December 03, 2008, 03:58:11 pm
i'd been told you don't reach back to the submergence jug, you just use it for feet. the idea being to keep your hands on and around the lip. feels hard for 7b+.

dave

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#23 Re: Blind Ali
December 03, 2008, 04:05:53 pm
it would be about 7b using the submergence jugs for hands - its essential to eliminate this cos otherwise you would also use all the big jugs down under blind date too, and then you're doing a 7a+. like tom says, doing blind date from the submergence jug doesn't add that much, so if you did the lip traverse into this you're doing 1 tricky move off the deck, easy moves with a heeltoe in, into a "doesn't add that much" part instead of the crux. I think you have to accept some eliminateness of these traverses, same on the slots traverse it'd be easier to use the remergence roof crimp or the lip holds but you're losing the line then.

Andy B

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#24 Re: Blind Ali
December 03, 2008, 04:08:26 pm
Everyone I've seen do or try Blind Ali has not reached back to the Submergance starting jug.
You can reach the Blind Date rail by either crossing under from the lip to the undercut then out to the rail, or by holding the lip with your left and flicking out to the rail from there. (a lush move).

 

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