[andy_e]

Anyone got anything useful to add?

No, only that I can't touch it.

Neither can I touch Hank's, I'm too weak for both.

 

[Serpico]

I could walk to Brownstones from my house (it'd take for fuckin' ever mind..) and I've never tried that problem. Maybe I should make this years resolution to rediscover Brownstones.

[andy_e]

I used to walk to Brownstones/the Wiltons from my school on Chorley new road every summer wednesday & friday evening! Only used to take 45 mins.

[account_inactive]

Primary or secondary

[andy_e]

secondary, then sixth form

[dave k]

Did the crouch start tonight- agree with 7a+. Started with left hand on undercling on LHS of arete and right hand on the reasonable hold lowish on the right. From full sitting for me seemed v hard. Taller types are likely to be able to start with the same hand holds as me and have atleast one bum cheek on the floor.

So what is the propper SS sequence? - there are a few very small crimps on the right, but I couldn`t work out how to get feet on.

The top section is cool.

A video of the SS would be useful if one exists

[GCW]

The squat start from the big jug on the right?  Yeah, pushes 7a+, but the last bit is still the crux
The sitter goes from a sidepull/undercut round left and some poorness out right.  Use the dink on the arete for feet and go for the good hold.  As far as I can tell.  Not done it as it's very bunched for me, and isn't that enjoyable.  No video that I know of.

Drop me a line if you're going again.

[r-man]

Did this today, adds a good move. Fingery. Failed to pull on for ten minutes, then played on something else and when I came back to it, I did it quite fast. The crux is pulling on - once you've done that, reaching the good hold is steady.

Beta: Start left hand on the undercut, right on crimp with pointy teeth. Right foot on protruding smear on arete - it's the obvious sticky out bit. Crimp hard and pull on. Then casually reach the jug with right and carry on as usual.

Grade - 7b/7b+. The first move is solid 7a+ on it's own, and it tires your fingers a little for the tricky 7a move higher up. Probably go with soft 7b+ - I've certainly done a lot of 7b+´s where you don't have to pull as hard. Also, it's probably a little harder than any of the 7b's at Brownstones: Lifeline sitter (soft), ridiculous eliminate (middling), Hank's sitter (tough), dezertion elim (soft).

So there you go. I'll post a video at some point in the next few days.

[GCW]

Nice one.  Sounds like you try it the same method as I do, but have shorter legs pull harder.
I would say Ridiculous Eliminate is fairly soft too, but I find Dezertion Eliminate quite tough.  But it's a very body position related move and you always seem to find it OK and I don't

[r-man]

Here it be.



And here's a photo of the arete. I did think it looked possible to traverse into groundhog from the crack on the left. Like this: Crack for hands, toejam left foot. Left hand to undercling/sidepull, right hand drop/throw to very small crimp 1m left of arete (chalked in photo). Then adjust feet and do a wild crossover throw to the good crimp with left hand, swing and catch hold round other side with right hand. Probably an 8...

[dave k]

You made the first move look piss. Cheers for the inspiration. i will be back soon to give it a pop. Might leave the traverse in for you to unlock.

[GCW]

Probably an 8...

....and a bit rubbish?
Nice video though- have you invested ina camcorder?

[r-man]

No, this traverse would be an amazing bit of climbing, with wild moves. Definitely not rubbish.

No camcorder for me, but I have got a new phone, which has pretty good quality.

Good luck with the sitter, Dave. It's a satisfying move when you get it.

[GCW]

I must admit I have previously looked at that wall for a traverse line, but the holds are chronic.
I can see there's going to be a queue for the sitter to Groundhog

[r-man]

I looked at the up problem on that wall too. In fact, that's what warmed my fingers up for the Groundhog sitter. I could pull on briefly - right hand crimp, left undercling/sidepull. Then I started visualising. Left hand throw for the small crimp. Foot up, right hand to undercling (the crack used on groundhog). Feet up. Gaston left hand high. Right foot to crack. Rockover, throw for maybe-a-hold higher...

Yeah, I still couldn't quite make the top even with concept-power. It got scary up there, and after fumbling the maybe-a-hold, I didn't want to imagine the fall again.

[GCW]

It got scary up there, and after fumbling the maybe-a-hold, I didn't want to imagine the fall again.

That's why you didn't do it- imagining failure isn't constructive.

[nik at work]

This coming from Mr "There's no holds that I can pull on there".

PMA

POSITIVE
MENTAL
ATTITUDE

Just imagine Linfords happy sack swaying rythmically left and right as he powers his drug fueled way down the track....

[andy_e]

Potential for a huge move on the left side of the arete- two obvious crimps to the crimp in the crack high on groundhog, swing round the arete and get the jug as for goundhog.

[GCW]

PMA

POSITIVE
MENTAL
ATTITUDE

PPP

Piss
Poor
Performance

[nik at work]

Amen to that.

[andy_e]

I thought GCW was more likely to have a Positive Mental State...

[Probes]

Rman.. is your arse on the floor or a matt, and what are the exact dimensions of your matt if so, i suggest a sliding scale for the sitter on this problem, 100mm V7, 80mm V7-V8, 60mm V8, anything less than 60mm that includes carpets, door matts, towels and thickness of shorts.. V8+.  Traverse in idea looks cool.
A friendly word o warning, if anyone thinking of doing the slanter etc on the backwall, beware the top holds are in a bit o a state, either caked in mud, or in the case of a lot of the slots, completely full. i nearly come a cropper the other night.

[r-man]

On a mat. But 60mm? That's over 2 inches right? My mat is thinner than that. Pensionable Metolius with knackered foam. Fairly certain I could do it without a mat. I'll have a look-see next time I'm up.

I can see how this move would be very size dependant though. Easier for short people and harder for tall people.

[GCW]

Yeah, it's nails if you're tall because it's super bunched.  Similar to the Lifeline SDS.

[Probes did Lifeline from both hands on the undercuts btw.  I now think 7a+ for the sit start with a hand on the first crimp: Lanky way]