Groundhog - Brownstones (Read 13077 times)

Rice Boy · August 30, 2007, 10:56:30 am

I can get into the standing start set-up from sitting but the issue is I've yet to do the stand up version, last moves the stopper.

Best idea I had was going with left hand to the top hold in the crack but I felt a more technical/stylish way was at hand. Any help appreciated.

No idea why this doesn't get more attention. It's the one of only a few purely independant lines at Brownstones and quality problem as well.

andy_e · August 30, 2007, 11:10:26 am

Great problem but sharp as knives, lots of them. Get a heel around the corner and go for the crimp in the crack on the left, then slap with your right for the ledge. Good effort getting the sitter moves.

Rice Boy · August 30, 2007, 11:40:10 am

Thanks, thought as much. Guppying the arete was going nowhere. Your not wrong the sharpness is bitter especially on that left hand.

r-man · August 30, 2007, 12:26:13 pm

Tricky problem this. There are various methods. Mine involves using the good right hand hold on right side of arete (sort of a sidepull), and the good straight crimp on the left. Ignore the higher crap crimp on the right. Get a heel high out right on the obvious placement and smear left foot high on the left side of the arete. Throw/lever left hand upwards for the crack. Once you catch this, the moves to the finish aren't hard.

Careful though, there's a large block behind you can fall backwards onto if you don't have a spotter!

Quote from: Rice Boy on August 30, 2007, 10:56:30 am

It's the one of only a few purely independant lines at Brownstones and quality problem as well.

I'm guessing you haven't done much on the long back wall then?

How about these (all independant lines, all on the LBW):

V5 Rusty Wall
V6 Grand Theft
V7 Big Muff
V7 Ninja Fingers
V7/8 Lifeline sitter
V8 Thunder
V9 (?) Colt

Details all here:
http://brownstones.wetpaint.com/page/Graded+list

Rice Boy · August 30, 2007, 01:53:03 pm

Heel out right?? Take it you end up rocking weight onto the right heel ending up almost rotated over / wrapped round arete? It sounds crazy but may just work! Ta.

May be jumping to conclusions as that was my 2nd visit but the Himalayan Balsam had properly taken over and I couldn't be arsed fighting it down.

andy_e · August 31, 2007, 05:18:58 pm

I might try and get this done before I go back to Leeds, as long as it's dry tomorrow...

clm · August 31, 2007, 05:59:30 pm

im a bit diffrent - or taller

get pair of crimps - is one either side of arete? smear left on arete put right toe on big hold out right - high rock/throw with right hand for big hold on ledge.

im guessing you are smaller than me as the sitter to me is the most bunched up position ive ever been in. feels like the footholds are higher than the handholds.

Jim · August 31, 2007, 06:01:38 pm

most people are smaller than you Clm, only in arm length and height tho

clm · August 31, 2007, 06:03:46 pm

and most people are smaller than you but only in gut.

Rice Boy · August 31, 2007, 08:45:26 pm

I'm 6'2" and didn't find the sitter too bunched, then again it did feel pretty 'floaty' for a sitter. Somewhere between sitting and squating.

GCW · September 02, 2007, 08:25:36 pm

Quote from: Rice Boy on August 31, 2007, 08:45:26 pm

I'm 6'2" and didn't find the sitter too bunched, then again it did feel pretty 'floaty' for a sitter. Somewhere between sitting and squating.

From sitting on the floor I think it's hard. Squatting makes it fairly Ok in my opinion, but I usually sit grunting and sweating in a desperate attempt to haul my ass off the floor.... and failing.

Top bit. As clm says, you can LANK it. I'm 6'3" and can reach the ledge with a slight udge.
The crimp in the crack is the technician's way and more satisfying.

Good luck, and don't forget to video it and link it to the wiki!!!

GCW · January 03, 2008, 07:20:41 pm

Here ya go:

mini · January 03, 2008, 08:14:08 pm

What does the sitter go at? Remember doing the stand up a while back while visiting family up Chorley, never looked at the sitter so may go back next time I'm up.

account_inactive · January 03, 2008, 08:18:47 pm

7bish

GCW · January 03, 2008, 08:26:55 pm

Some say 7b+, I can't comment as I haven't done it. I find the pull from the ground very powerful i.e. I'm too weak. From a French start it's about 7a+.

mini · January 03, 2008, 08:28:01 pm

Does it top out, or finish as per the vid? If not then I'm sure the top would go, though a little highball (and sandy, and loose?).

Houdini · January 03, 2008, 08:30:38 pm

Quote from: GCW on January 03, 2008, 08:26:55 pm

French start 7a+.

Chinny reckon I'll be taking a sit rather than leaping for holds you do too

GCW · January 03, 2008, 08:34:04 pm

Quote from: Houdini on January 03, 2008, 08:30:38 pm

Chinny reckon I'll be taking a sit rather than leaping for holds you do too

What are you on about? French start as in Squat, not jumping. Crazy foo'.

Mini, have a look at the wiki- it may be of some use next time you're up (give me a PM if you're around).

nik at work · January 03, 2008, 10:06:46 pm

Wha' d'you talkin' 'bou Wallis?

Everybody knows that FRENCH START means standing start with a cheating LEAP.
What, you off ill that day at school boy?

It takes different strokes to run the world, oh yeah, it takes different strokes......

GCW · January 03, 2008, 10:18:34 pm

Ok, OK. Squat start. We used to use "French" for any method of cheating, Francophobic it may be.
Jennings- another one that doesn't answer PMs/ e-mails

We didn't do Foreign shit at my Grammar School, just proper British etiquette etcetera, don'tyaknow.

Mini: The 7a finishes as per video, but it can be topped out at E-something, I'm not sure how many people bother.

nik at work · January 03, 2008, 10:34:38 pm

Cast a slur on my name would you sir?

Perhaps one would feel inclined to indulge in a spot of inbox ferreting. If I may be so bold as to suggest that perhaps your monitoring of electronic comunication was in some aspect remiss on or around the 19th of December this previous year. I am aquiver in anticipation of your grovelling apology, lest the gods of the interweb have sacrificed my comunique for some higher purpose we could never concieve....

GCW · January 04, 2008, 07:46:33 am

Eh? Never got one, unless Hotmail filtered you out as undesirable. Can you re-send it? Cheers. Grovelling apology

Back on topic, Mini: It's a good problem. Get to it. R-man's sitters for Var (Big Muff) and Lifeline are good at 7a+ and 7b, then there's the other classics (Hank's etc) but I expect you did most of those before.

mini · January 04, 2008, 07:52:45 am

Ye, have done most of the classics around the Hnaks Area, Hank itself was a bit of an epic to be fair, but nothing on the long wall. Will PM ya next time I'm up and you can show me around some of the new stuff.

GCW · January 04, 2008, 07:56:12 am

Yeah, I'll give a tour of the classics. Won't take long

Hank's is a funny one. R-man does laps on it but I always find it a bit weird. If I don't get it first go I leave it for the day. Too harsh on the left index skin. And I still haven't managed the 3 Hold Version or RHH

nik at work · January 04, 2008, 10:54:15 am

Oh and having read through the thread and looked at the vid I'm pretty sure that I did it the same way as CLM by the sounds of things. I.e. Both hands on the lower holds and go up with the right for the ledge. Fuck knows what I did with my feet, but I'm sure I went up right hand. Don't even remember seeing the hold on the left of the arete that GCW uses.
However the suggestion is that CLM is one tall mo-fo whereas I am only barred from entering the local Midget 5-A-Side league due to a technicality (my hair is too tall). This suggests that my mental condition is such that I will soon be found in the local old folks home dribbling soup and talking about the war.

As such please ignore me.

Anyone got anything useful to add?