[Rice Boy]

I can get into the standing start set-up from sitting but the issue is I've yet to do the stand up version, last moves the stopper.

Best idea I had was going with left hand to the top hold in the crack but I felt a more technical/stylish way was at hand. Any help appreciated.

No idea why this doesn't get more attention. It's the one of only a few purely independant lines at Brownstones and quality problem as well.

[andy_e]

Great problem but sharp as knives, lots of them. Get a heel around the corner and go for the crimp in the crack on the left, then slap with your right for the ledge. Good effort getting the sitter moves.

[Rice Boy]

Thanks, thought as much. Guppying the arete was going nowhere. Your not wrong the sharpness is bitter especially on that left hand.

[r-man]

Tricky problem this. There are various methods. Mine involves using the good right hand hold on right side of arete (sort of a sidepull), and the good straight crimp on the left. Ignore the higher crap crimp on the right. Get a heel high out right on the obvious placement and smear left foot high on the left side of the arete. Throw/lever left hand upwards for the crack. Once you catch this, the moves to the finish aren't hard.

Careful though, there's a large block behind you can fall backwards onto if you don't have a spotter!

It's the one of only a few purely independant lines at Brownstones and quality problem as well.

I'm guessing you haven't done much on the long back wall then? 

How about these (all independant lines, all on the LBW):

V5 Rusty Wall
V6 Grand Theft
V7 Big Muff
V7 Ninja Fingers
V7/8 Lifeline sitter
V8 Thunder
V9 (?) Colt

Details all here:
http://brownstones.wetpaint.com/page/Graded+list

[Rice Boy]

Heel out right?? Take it you end up rocking weight onto the right heel ending up almost rotated over / wrapped round arete? It sounds crazy but may just work! Ta.

May be jumping to conclusions as that was my 2nd visit but the Himalayan Balsam had properly taken over and I couldn't be arsed fighting it down.

[andy_e]

I might try and get this done before I go back to Leeds, as long as it's dry tomorrow...

[clm]

im a bit diffrent - or taller

get pair of crimps - is one either side of arete?  smear left on arete put right toe on big hold out right - high rock/throw with right hand for big hold on ledge.

im guessing you are smaller than me as the sitter to me is the most bunched up position ive ever been in.  feels like the footholds are higher than the handholds.

[Jim]

most people are smaller than you Clm, only in arm length and height tho

[clm]

and most people are smaller than you but only in gut.

[Rice Boy]

I'm 6'2" and didn't find the sitter too bunched, then again it did feel pretty 'floaty' for a sitter. Somewhere between sitting and squating.

[GCW]

I'm 6'2" and didn't find the sitter too bunched, then again it did feel pretty 'floaty' for a sitter. Somewhere between sitting and squating.

From sitting on the floor I think it's hard.  Squatting makes it fairly Ok in my opinion, but I usually sit grunting and sweating in a desperate attempt to haul my ass off the floor.... and failing.

Top bit.  As clm says, you can LANK it.  I'm 6'3" and can reach the ledge with a slight udge.
The crimp in the crack is the technician's way and more satisfying.

Good luck, and don't forget to video it and link it to the wiki!!!

[GCW]

Here ya go:

[mini]

What does the sitter go at? Remember doing the stand up a while back while visiting family up Chorley, never looked at the sitter so may go back next time I'm up.

[account_inactive]

7bish

[GCW]

Some say 7b+, I can't comment as I haven't done it.  I find the pull from the ground very powerful i.e. I'm too weak.  From a French start it's about 7a+.

[mini]

Does it top out, or finish as per the vid? If not then I'm sure the top would go, though a little highball (and sandy, and loose?).

[Houdini]

French start 7a+.

Chinny reckon I'll be taking a sit rather than leaping for holds you do too

[GCW]

Chinny reckon I'll be taking a sit rather than leaping for holds you do too

What are you on about?  French start as in Squat, not jumping.  Crazy foo'.

Mini, have a look at the wiki- it may be of some use next time you're up (give me a PM if you're around).

[nik at work]

Wha' d'you talkin' 'bou Wallis?

Everybody knows that FRENCH START means standing start with a cheating LEAP.
What, you off ill that day at school boy?

It takes different strokes to run the world, oh yeah, it takes different strokes......

[GCW]

Ok, OK.  Squat start.  We used to use "French" for any method of cheating, Francophobic it may be.
Jennings- another one that doesn't answer PMs/ e-mails   We didn't do Foreign shit at my Grammar School, just proper British etiquette etcetera, don'tyaknow.

Mini:  The 7a finishes as per video, but it can be topped out at E-something, I'm not sure how many people bother.

[nik at work]

Cast a slur on my name would you sir?

Perhaps one would feel inclined to indulge in a spot of inbox ferreting. If I may be so bold as to suggest that perhaps your monitoring of electronic comunication was in some aspect remiss on or around the 19th of December this previous year. I am aquiver in anticipation of your grovelling apology, lest the gods of the interweb have sacrificed my comunique for some higher purpose we could never concieve....

[GCW]

Eh?  Never got one, unless Hotmail filtered you out as undesirable.  Can you re-send it?  Cheers.  Grovelling apology

Back on topic, Mini:  It's a good problem.  Get to it.  R-man's sitters for Var (Big Muff) and Lifeline are good at 7a+ and 7b, then there's the other classics (Hank's etc) but I expect you did most of those before.

[mini]

Ye, have done most of the classics around the Hnaks Area, Hank itself was a bit of an epic to be fair, but nothing on the long wall. Will PM ya next time I'm up and you can show me around some of the new stuff.

[GCW]

Yeah, I'll give a tour of the classics.  Won't take long
Hank's is a funny one.  R-man does laps on it but I always find it a bit weird.  If I don't get it first go I leave it for the day.  Too harsh on the left index skin.  And I still haven't managed the 3 Hold Version or RHH 

[nik at work]

Oh and having read through the thread and looked at the vid I'm pretty sure that I did it the same way as CLM by the sounds of things. I.e. Both hands on the lower holds and go up with the right for the ledge. Fuck knows what I did with my feet, but I'm sure I went up right hand. Don't even remember seeing the hold on the left of the arete that GCW uses.
However the suggestion is that CLM is one tall mo-fo whereas I am only barred from entering the local Midget 5-A-Side league due to a technicality (my hair is too tall). This suggests that my mental condition is such that I will soon be found in the local old folks home dribbling soup and talking about the war.

As such please ignore me.

Anyone got anything useful to add?

[andy_e]

Anyone got anything useful to add?

No, only that I can't touch it.

Neither can I touch Hank's, I'm too weak for both.

 

[Serpico]

I could walk to Brownstones from my house (it'd take for fuckin' ever mind..) and I've never tried that problem. Maybe I should make this years resolution to rediscover Brownstones.

[andy_e]

I used to walk to Brownstones/the Wiltons from my school on Chorley new road every summer wednesday & friday evening! Only used to take 45 mins.

[account_inactive]

Primary or secondary

[andy_e]

secondary, then sixth form

[dave k]

Did the crouch start tonight- agree with 7a+. Started with left hand on undercling on LHS of arete and right hand on the reasonable hold lowish on the right. From full sitting for me seemed v hard. Taller types are likely to be able to start with the same hand holds as me and have atleast one bum cheek on the floor.

So what is the propper SS sequence? - there are a few very small crimps on the right, but I couldn`t work out how to get feet on.

The top section is cool.

A video of the SS would be useful if one exists

[GCW]

The squat start from the big jug on the right?  Yeah, pushes 7a+, but the last bit is still the crux
The sitter goes from a sidepull/undercut round left and some poorness out right.  Use the dink on the arete for feet and go for the good hold.  As far as I can tell.  Not done it as it's very bunched for me, and isn't that enjoyable.  No video that I know of.

Drop me a line if you're going again.

[r-man]

Did this today, adds a good move. Fingery. Failed to pull on for ten minutes, then played on something else and when I came back to it, I did it quite fast. The crux is pulling on - once you've done that, reaching the good hold is steady.

Beta: Start left hand on the undercut, right on crimp with pointy teeth. Right foot on protruding smear on arete - it's the obvious sticky out bit. Crimp hard and pull on. Then casually reach the jug with right and carry on as usual.

Grade - 7b/7b+. The first move is solid 7a+ on it's own, and it tires your fingers a little for the tricky 7a move higher up. Probably go with soft 7b+ - I've certainly done a lot of 7b+´s where you don't have to pull as hard. Also, it's probably a little harder than any of the 7b's at Brownstones: Lifeline sitter (soft), ridiculous eliminate (middling), Hank's sitter (tough), dezertion elim (soft).

So there you go. I'll post a video at some point in the next few days.

[GCW]

Nice one.  Sounds like you try it the same method as I do, but have shorter legs pull harder.
I would say Ridiculous Eliminate is fairly soft too, but I find Dezertion Eliminate quite tough.  But it's a very body position related move and you always seem to find it OK and I don't

[r-man]

Here it be.



And here's a photo of the arete. I did think it looked possible to traverse into groundhog from the crack on the left. Like this: Crack for hands, toejam left foot. Left hand to undercling/sidepull, right hand drop/throw to very small crimp 1m left of arete (chalked in photo). Then adjust feet and do a wild crossover throw to the good crimp with left hand, swing and catch hold round other side with right hand. Probably an 8...

[dave k]

You made the first move look piss. Cheers for the inspiration. i will be back soon to give it a pop. Might leave the traverse in for you to unlock.

[GCW]

Probably an 8...

....and a bit rubbish?
Nice video though- have you invested ina camcorder?

[r-man]

No, this traverse would be an amazing bit of climbing, with wild moves. Definitely not rubbish.

No camcorder for me, but I have got a new phone, which has pretty good quality.

Good luck with the sitter, Dave. It's a satisfying move when you get it.

[GCW]

I must admit I have previously looked at that wall for a traverse line, but the holds are chronic.
I can see there's going to be a queue for the sitter to Groundhog

[r-man]

I looked at the up problem on that wall too. In fact, that's what warmed my fingers up for the Groundhog sitter. I could pull on briefly - right hand crimp, left undercling/sidepull. Then I started visualising. Left hand throw for the small crimp. Foot up, right hand to undercling (the crack used on groundhog). Feet up. Gaston left hand high. Right foot to crack. Rockover, throw for maybe-a-hold higher...

Yeah, I still couldn't quite make the top even with concept-power. It got scary up there, and after fumbling the maybe-a-hold, I didn't want to imagine the fall again.

[GCW]

It got scary up there, and after fumbling the maybe-a-hold, I didn't want to imagine the fall again.

That's why you didn't do it- imagining failure isn't constructive.

[nik at work]

This coming from Mr "There's no holds that I can pull on there".

PMA

POSITIVE
MENTAL
ATTITUDE

Just imagine Linfords happy sack swaying rythmically left and right as he powers his drug fueled way down the track....

[andy_e]

Potential for a huge move on the left side of the arete- two obvious crimps to the crimp in the crack high on groundhog, swing round the arete and get the jug as for goundhog.

[GCW]

PMA

POSITIVE
MENTAL
ATTITUDE

PPP

Piss
Poor
Performance

[nik at work]

Amen to that.

[andy_e]

I thought GCW was more likely to have a Positive Mental State...

[Probes]

Rman.. is your arse on the floor or a matt, and what are the exact dimensions of your matt if so, i suggest a sliding scale for the sitter on this problem, 100mm V7, 80mm V7-V8, 60mm V8, anything less than 60mm that includes carpets, door matts, towels and thickness of shorts.. V8+.  Traverse in idea looks cool.
A friendly word o warning, if anyone thinking of doing the slanter etc on the backwall, beware the top holds are in a bit o a state, either caked in mud, or in the case of a lot of the slots, completely full. i nearly come a cropper the other night.

[r-man]

On a mat. But 60mm? That's over 2 inches right? My mat is thinner than that. Pensionable Metolius with knackered foam. Fairly certain I could do it without a mat. I'll have a look-see next time I'm up.

I can see how this move would be very size dependant though. Easier for short people and harder for tall people.

[GCW]

Yeah, it's nails if you're tall because it's super bunched.  Similar to the Lifeline SDS.

[Probes did Lifeline from both hands on the undercuts btw.  I now think 7a+ for the sit start with a hand on the first crimp: Lanky way]