UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: Greg C on August 18, 2012, 03:57:06 pm
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Despite being massively out of date, the EliteUKBouldering Inventory blog/site still gets quite a bit of traffic, thus I presume people liked the idea(?). As I should of just kept on top of it in the first place I'm going to reboot the concept.
I'm in the process of backfilling/dating news (2009-2012) reports into the archive, is there any chance the UKB collective could give me some assistance in updating the old tick lists?
All below...
http://www.lakesbloc.com/EUKBI_Lists/peakdistrict.pdf (http://www.lakesbloc.com/EUKBI_Lists/peakdistrict.pdf)
http://www.lakesbloc.com/EUKBI_Lists/yorkshire.pdf (http://www.lakesbloc.com/EUKBI_Lists/yorkshire.pdf)
http://www.lakesbloc.com/EUKBI_Lists/wales.pdf (http://www.lakesbloc.com/EUKBI_Lists/wales.pdf)
http://www.lakesbloc.com/EUKBI_Lists/northumberland.pdf (http://www.lakesbloc.com/EUKBI_Lists/northumberland.pdf)
http://www.lakesbloc.com/EUKBI_Lists/lakedistrict.pdf (http://www.lakesbloc.com/EUKBI_Lists/lakedistrict.pdf)
http://www.lakesbloc.com/EUKBI_Lists/scotland.pdf (http://www.lakesbloc.com/EUKBI_Lists/scotland.pdf)
http://www.lakesbloc.com/EUKBI_Lists/southwest.pdf (http://www.lakesbloc.com/EUKBI_Lists/southwest.pdf)
Also be keen on a list of the 8As in Ireland and anything that has happened in the South East...
Thanks in advance.
(The site is down for the time being, while I update it.)
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will give u a hand with wales, problems under 2 ft do count don't they?
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Thanks Doylo. Yeah one mover arse-dragers are welcome... this is Britain ;)
I'll get the lists put onto Google Docs, rather than PDFs - they'll be easier to keep up to date.
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Keelhaul is in twice in Yorkshire...
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I think this is a great idea. I'll do up the Irish list when I get a few mins
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Keelhaul is in twice in Yorkshire...
Could do with someone actually doing the Yorkshire list properly - I can email an excel/Google Docs link file to make things easier. Any takers?
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I think this is a great idea. I'll do up the Irish list when I get a few mins
Thanks that would be great, PM me if you want me to email you the Excel version...
I've got someone helping me with the Peak (Bonjoy/ and hopefully Mike Adams), Southwest (Tackleberry) and Wales (Doylo).
I'm going to email the Higlander about Scotland, hopefully he'll help out, and Mr. V about Northumberland.
So help with Yorkshire and the South East would be useful...
Thanks.
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PM me if you want me to email you the Excel version...
Will do. In the meantime, here's (https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AkB6hVzYcLDndFNlbzRJb25NeTN5bHdCNFdHQkZvR1E) a google docs I put together.
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PM me if you want me to email you the Excel version...
Will do. In the meantime, here's (https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AkB6hVzYcLDndFNlbzRJb25NeTN5bHdCNFdHQkZvR1E) a google docs I put together.
Cool thanks.
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As far as scottish stuff goes.
Sabotage is 8a now.
Sabotaged is 8a. Fa will atkinson
Le saboteur is 8a/+ Fa malc smith
Chahala ss is 8a+
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I'm far from an expert so don't reaally want to take on the full task, but I know there are some new things at Torridon Jumble by Dan V;
Stokes Croft 8a
Roof of the Brave 8a
I'm sure richieb or dan V can supply details of anything else
and Tim Rankin did
Devistator 8a at Cammachmore Bay in Jan 2011
Dave Mac did At Eternity's Gate at the Arisaig cave - V13??
and Triangulation which he gave "8a Ballpark"
Then there's the Screapadal Prow he did on Raasay and gave 7c+ but it looks harder.
I'm sure there is loads of other stuff.
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Good to see this up and running again Greg. I'm sure Doylo will give you all the relevant info (particularly on the limestone stuff) ,but glancing at the Welsh mountain crag list there are lots of new additions and lots of grade changes (some because of downgrades from repeaters, some because of broken holds).
For example:
New Noise re-climbed with new lower start
Roadside arete in Diesel Power is arbitrary - not really any harder than original
Mr Fantastic is 8A or perhaps even easier now
Subversion and Sub Society 7C+
Compact Culture split grade FA and repeater thought different: 8A+/B
What it is to burn is very minor - I would leave it out
Cross therapy probably 7C+
New stuff in mountains/down Lleyn:
Isles of Wonder 8B - Ogwen - Carreg Mianog - Pete Robins 2012 (unrepeated)
Go Motion 8A Crafnant - Pete Robins 2012 (unrepeated)
Worzel Gunnage 8A/+ - Llanberis Pass - Cromlech Boulders Richard Ames 2011 (repeated by Dave Noden)
My Own Private Idaho 8B - Crafnant - Chris Davies 2011 (unrepeated)
Corridors of Power 7C+/8A - Llanberis Pass - Cwm Glas Bach Dave Noden 2010 (given 8A, but Pete Robins thought 7C+)
The Tracks 8A+ - Llanberis Pass - The Barrel Dave Noden 2010 (repeated by Pete Robins)
Stoned Temple Pilots 8A/+ - Llanberis Pass - The Barrel Chris Davies 2010 (given 8A+, but Pete Robins thought 8A)
Danny LaRue 7C+/8A! - Ogwen Valley, Lily Savage Area Mike Adams 2010 (unrepeated)
Dolly Rocker 8A - Lleyn - Porth Ysgo - Dave Noden 2010 (repeated by Mike Adams)
The Crest sds 8A+ - Bethesda Wave - Ogwen Dave Noden 2010 (repeated by Pete Robins)
Left Said Fred 8A - Lleyn - Porth Ysgo - Mike Adams 2010 (unrepeated)
A Life Aesthetic 8B - Tremadog - Moel y Gest - Chris Davies 2009 (unrepeated)
Light Weight 8A - Dolwyddelan - Craig Pont y Pant (aka: Rhiw Goch) Chris Davies 2009 (repeated by Pete Robins)
Jerry’s Left Hand 8A - Ogwen - Sheep Pen Boulders Adam Hocking 2008 (unrepeated)
Kingdom of Fear 8A - Ogwen - Sheep Pen Boulders Adam Hocking 2007 (unrepeated)
Kingdom of Pain 8A - Ogwen - Sheep Pen Boulders Adam Hocking 2007 (repeated by Pete Robins)
Still quite a few unrepeated grade 8s in the mountains - if any strong types fancy popping over to Wales and giving them a go this autumn I'd appreciate any feedback for the new guide, even if you don't get up them any opinion on the grades is better than nothing. Otherwise we just have to rely upon the fa's suggestion and/or Pete Robins.
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Forgot to say but other unrepeated stuff in the mountains include:
Hippocampus 8A/+
New Noise low start 8A+
This Parade 8A+
(http://news.v12outdoor.com/wp-content/uploads/Neon-Handshake-1-600_1524.jpg)
Neon Handshake 8A+ (this looks really good and has a better landing now)
Poppy's Reach 8A+
Full Punks Trav 8A (suspect this is easier, but could be wrong?)
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...and apologies to Greg for the slight hijack of the thread. I just got carried away... :oops:
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As far as scottish stuff goes.
Sabotage is 8a now.
Sabotaged is 8a. Fa will atkinson
Le saboteur is 8a/+ Fa malc smith
Chahala ss is 8a+
Spam Dagger 7C+/8A
Mr Tickle 8A
Mr Tickle Extension 8A+ (maybe 8B) ;)
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Another Welsh mountain one that I forgot:
Beatitude Kiss 8A - Tremadog - Moel y Gest Dave Noden 2009 (unrepeated? This may have been chipped after Dave's ascent)
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...and apologies to Greg for the slight hijack of the thread. I just got carried away... :oops:
No worries good to see some good psyche! Thanks to everyone for the feedback.
Site's back live: http://www.eliteukbinventory.blogspot.co.uk/ (http://www.eliteukbinventory.blogspot.co.uk/)
I've updated the layout and added quite a bit of backdated news (although will be adding more as the lists are updated) and re-booted the lists into dynamic Google Docs - so they should be easier to keep up to date. Many of the lists are yet to be updated but they are live so people can view them as they progress and suggest additions/amendments.
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Also Dave Mac has done 7 of 9 in Glen Nevis @ 8b+ in April 2011
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word up - don't forget about all the south yorks limestone (roche abbey, conisborough, sprotborough, anston etc), plenty of 8s there, and no doubt all mick's secret crags down newark way or wherever they are.
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Ta.
Aslo the post labels now have a proper format - grade, climber, crag, area - so you can view info based on one these labels, eg:
http://www.eliteukbinventory.blogspot.co.uk/search/label/Dan%20Varian (http://www.eliteukbinventory.blogspot.co.uk/search/label/Dan%20Varian)
http://eliteukbinventory.blogspot.co.uk/search/label/8B (http://eliteukbinventory.blogspot.co.uk/search/label/8B)
http://eliteukbinventory.blogspot.co.uk/search/label/Wales (http://eliteukbinventory.blogspot.co.uk/search/label/Wales)
http://eliteukbinventory.blogspot.co.uk/search/label/Parisellas%20Cave (http://eliteukbinventory.blogspot.co.uk/search/label/Parisellas%20Cave)
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word up - don't forget about all the south yorks limestone (roche abbey, conisborough, sprotborough, anston etc), plenty of 8s there, and no doubt all mick's secret crags down newark way or wherever they are.
I emailed Mick yesterday, hopefully he will give me the relevant info to stick on a list.
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looking at the northumberland list i am guessing that
the crack standing has been downgraded from 8a to ? (7c) (never was given it until the 1st guide decided to publish it at that)
Prep H standing is no longer 8a (sit start in at 8a ???)
The magician no longer 8a?
Purely belter (no longer 8a (7c))
Time and punishment (no longer 8a or missed)
Scar tissue (ditto)
Antihydral (ditto)
The Young down from 8a+ to ???. (not a boulder problem in my mind)
And do you include for link ups ie cubbys in to yman (8a?)
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looking at the northumberland list i am guessing that
the crack standing has been downgraded from 8a to ? (7c) (never was given it until the 1st guide decided to publish it at that)
Prep H standing is no longer 8a (sit start in at 8a ???)
The magician no longer 8a?
Purely belter (no longer 8a (7c))
Time and punishment (no longer 8a or missed)
Scar tissue (ditto)
Antihydral (ditto)
The Young down from 8a+ to ???. (not a boulder problem in my mind)
And do you include for link ups ie cubbys in to yman (8a?)
Dan did this list.
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Cue Gav "I was climbing soft 8as in the county before he was born" :P
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Dont want any soft grades up here, couldnt do 8a then, hence why the crack was never that grade, and even less likely now. Just wouldnt want any of you southerners coming up here for an easy time.
I had noticed a bit of upward creep in the last two guides, hopefully this will be addressed in the next one, if not by the time i am 60 i will have climbed two grades harder than in my 20s.
Luckily Dan appears to be in charge of grades now so its likely to stay the same way as it was originally intended to be, sandbag heaven.
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Good to see this up and running again Greg. I'm sure Doylo will give you all the relevant info (particularly on the limestone stuff) ,but glancing at the Welsh mountain crag list there are lots of new additions and lots of grade changes (some because of downgrades from repeaters, some because of broken holds).
For example:
New Noise re-climbed with new lower start
Roadside arete in Diesel Power is arbitrary - not really any harder than original
Mr Fantastic is 8A or perhaps even easier now
Subversion and Sub Society 7C+
Compact Culture split grade FA and repeater thought different: 8A+/B
What it is to burn is very minor - I would leave it out
Cross therapy probably 7C+
New stuff in mountains/down Lleyn:
Isles of Wonder 8B - Ogwen - Carreg Mianog - Pete Robins 2012 (unrepeated)
Go Motion 8A Crafnant - Pete Robins 2012 (unrepeated)
Worzel Gunnage 8A/+ - Llanberis Pass - Cromlech Boulders Richard Ames 2011 (repeated by Dave Noden)
My Own Private Idaho 8B - Crafnant - Chris Davies 2011 (unrepeated)
Corridors of Power 7C+/8A - Llanberis Pass - Cwm Glas Bach Dave Noden 2010 (given 8A, but Pete Robins thought 7C+)
The Tracks 8A+ - Llanberis Pass - The Barrel Dave Noden 2010 (repeated by Pete Robins)
Stoned Temple Pilots 8A/+ - Llanberis Pass - The Barrel Chris Davies 2010 (given 8A+, but Pete Robins thought 8A)
Danny LaRue 7C+/8A! - Ogwen Valley, Lily Savage Area Mike Adams 2010 (unrepeated)
Dolly Rocker 8A - Lleyn - Porth Ysgo - Dave Noden 2010 (repeated by Mike Adams)
The Crest sds 8A+ - Bethesda Wave - Ogwen Dave Noden 2010 (repeated by Pete Robins)
Left Said Fred 8A - Lleyn - Porth Ysgo - Mike Adams 2010 (unrepeated)
A Life Aesthetic 8B - Tremadog - Moel y Gest - Chris Davies 2009 (unrepeated)
Light Weight 8A - Dolwyddelan - Craig Pont y Pant (aka: Rhiw Goch) Chris Davies 2009 (repeated by Pete Robins)
Jerry’s Left Hand 8A - Ogwen - Sheep Pen Boulders Adam Hocking 2008 (unrepeated)
Kingdom of Fear 8A - Ogwen - Sheep Pen Boulders Adam Hocking 2007 (unrepeated)
Kingdom of Pain 8A - Ogwen - Sheep Pen Boulders Adam Hocking 2007 (repeated by Pete Robins)
Still quite a few unrepeated grade 8s in the mountains - if any strong types fancy popping over to Wales and giving them a go this autumn I'd appreciate any feedback for the new guide, even if you don't get up them any opinion on the grades is better than nothing. Otherwise we just have to rely upon the fa's suggestion and/or Pete Robins.
These should all be added all now.
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I've updated the North West list. Is there anything in the Cheshire area?
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Fantastic effort Greg. How are you splitting North West and Lake District? Would they do better being stuck together?
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Fantastic effort Greg. How are you splitting North West and Lake District? Would they do better being stuck together?
Thanks.
The lists for both are roughly up to date:
NW: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0AoSRjxmc-dJsdEhaZlJvUTJXbzZGX3c4SzRYNzJXYVE&output=html
Lakes: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0AoSRjxmc-dJsdEFZa01aSHNWYjNkNVZfcjloYUtRVkE&output=html
I've put Thorn Crag into the North West list, as in the real (non LakesBloc) world it makes more sense. Thus Thorn down to Cheshire I guess would be classed as 'North West' in this context.
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Think Scotland looks pretty close now:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0AoSRjxmc-dJsdGRqZUtOd3RVeUQtMzBMMW4yeE90Z2c&output=html
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Another Welsh mountain one that I forgot:
Beatitude Kiss 8A - Tremadog - Moel y Gest Dave Noden 2009 (unrepeated? This may have been chipped after Dave's ascent)
Did Pete actually finish Lightweight? Thought Jordan did Beatitude?
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Think Scotland looks pretty close now:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0AoSRjxmc-dJsdGRqZUtOd3RVeUQtMzBMMW4yeE90Z2c&output=html
One more for Dumby.....
Hokku, 8a/+, Dumbarton. Dave Macleod (maybe 2006?) second half of Sosho....
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Think Scotland looks pretty close now:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0AoSRjxmc-dJsdGRqZUtOd3RVeUQtMzBMMW4yeE90Z2c&output=html
chahala still showing as 8a. Pretty sure its thought to be 8a+
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8A-! Sweet.
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Think Scotland looks pretty close now:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0AoSRjxmc-dJsdGRqZUtOd3RVeUQtMzBMMW4yeE90Z2c&output=html
I know Mike Adams did some “repeats” of SiO probs on Skye this summer. I’m sure at least one was an 8.
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I hope there are some black and white photos of Mike climbing these problems 300ft above a raging sea.
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Think Scotland looks pretty close now:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0AoSRjxmc-dJsdGRqZUtOd3RVeUQtMzBMMW4yeE90Z2c&output=html
For the sake of Accuracy, it's Cammachmore Bay for Devistator, and I think there's Stoke's Croft @ Torridon I mentioned earlier that Dan did.
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8A-! Sweet.
Just to be clear, I'm not advocating this as a real grade, it's simply for highlighting that the line has possibly been given 7C+/8A at some point.
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Think Scotland looks pretty close now:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0AoSRjxmc-dJsdGRqZUtOd3RVeUQtMzBMMW4yeE90Z2c&output=html
For the sake of Accuracy, it's Cammachmore Bay for Devistator, and I think there's Stoke's Croft @ Torridon I mentioned earlier that Dan did.
I'll sort the Cammachmorre Bay thing.
Stokes Croft: Dan (and Dave) reckon 7C+ for Dave's beta.
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I'll make the other Scots amendments.
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Any interest in adding South Wales problems to the list?
Namely Wife of Fyfe and Body Wisdom.
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Any interest in adding South Wales problems to the list?
Namely Wife of Fyfe and Body Wisdom.
Yeah of course, are they at Dinas Rock? What's the full details - crag, grades, FA info?
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Another Welsh mountain one that I forgot:
Beatitude Kiss 8A - Tremadog - Moel y Gest Dave Noden 2009 (unrepeated? This may have been chipped after Dave's ascent)
Did Pete actually finish Lightweight? Thought Jordan did Beatitude?
My mistake - Pete very nearly did it and on the basis of his attempt confirmed the 8A grade.
Not sure about Jordan?
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Jordan's done it, it's on his 8a.nu ticklist.
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Ok North Wales lime:
Parisellas:
The Last stand 8a+ , Chris davies 2012
Bonatrocity 8b., Ben Bransby 2012
Broken Trigger 8a (with knees) dave Noden 2012
Dorsal Stream 8b Pete Robins 2011
The Incredible Bulk 8b Pete Robins 2010
Broken Sam 8a me 2010
The Incredible Bulk (part II) 8a 2009 Pete Robins
The Wire 8a+ Pete Robins 2009
Grimage 8a+ ? ?
Broken Direct 8a/+ dave noden 2008
Tremeirchion:
36 Chambers SDS 8a Danny Cattell 2009
Angel bay:
Serpentine Pad 8a Chris Davies 2010
Manchester Dogs has been destroyed by the sea
Pill Box:
Last Drink 8a+ me 2012
Jack The Drunk 8a+ me 2009
West Shore (Chinatown):
The Spray 8a Sam Cattell 2011
Little Orme:
Batman 8a Sam Cattell 2011
Pantymwyn:
Spinal Tap 8a Sam cattell
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also at Pantymywn
Pantymywn Traverse 8a Holger Moeller 2008
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Any interest in adding South Wales problems to the list?
Namely Wife of Fyfe and Body Wisdom.
Added.
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Ok North Wales lime:
Parisellas:
The Last stand 8a+ , Chris davies 2012
Bonatrocity 8b., Ben Bransby 2012
Broken Trigger 8a (with knees) dave Noden 2012
Dorsal Stream 8b Pete Robins 2011
The Incredible Bulk 8b Pete Robins 2010
Broken Sam 8a me 2010
The Incredible Bulk (part II) 8a 2009 Pete Robins
The Wire 8a+ Pete Robins 2009
Grimage 8a+ ? ?
Broken Direct 8a/+ dave noden 2008
Tremeirchion:
36 Chambers SDS 8a Danny Cattell 2009
Angel bay:
Serpentine Pad 8a Chris Davies 2010
Manchester Dogs has been destroyed by the sea
Pill Box:
Last Drink 8a+ me 2012
Jack The Drunk 8a+ me 2009
West Shore (Chinatown):
The Spray 8a Sam Cattell 2011
Little Orme:
Batman 8a Sam Cattell 2011
Pantymwyn:
Spinal Tap 8a Sam cattell
also at Pantymywn
Pantymywn Traverse 8a Holger Moeller 2008
Added:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0AoSRjxmc-dJsdFdKMGZKakxmbEh2ZU1RYzlMb0Y4ZGc&output=html
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Anyone know about anything in the Bristol area other than this?
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=230634 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=230634)
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Any interest in adding South Wales problems to the list?
Namely Wife of Fyfe and Body Wisdom.
Wife of Fyfe is 8A, not 8A+? At least, that's what it says on Dave Macleod's blog.
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Alright Greg Luv, how's it going?
Just to put forward a view (and that's all it is). Both Neon Handshake and Poppy's Move are 8b, and unrepeated. That's a fact - I know, I've climbed them, and lots more 8b's like them which where easier.
Compact Culture had a foothold break which makes the standard sequence harder (apparently). I didn't use it in the first place, so probably 8b. Grumble grumble :).
Well done on the psyche for this list - brilliant.
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Dave is slightly sleep deprived and annoyed at present so maybe should be ignored...
Dolly Rocker FA is Me
Halfway House Was Malcolm
Trigger cut cant get 8a as the knees make it easy (again I keep getting told about 7b+ so they must be right)
Therefore Halfway must be at most 8a, therefore the link into uppercut must be 8a+ at a push, according to Dyer "not sure the uppercut links actually make a difference to the grade of anything because if you cant do the finish you will have already have fallen off going for the end move on directors" or words to that effect.
Therefore Directors must be at most 8a+. (Its just waiting for someone to climb it with the kneebars, me I aint going to bother as limestone seems to bring out the worst in people. It must be like dawes said climbing on dead sea creatures is bad for your chi)
Daisy from concrete is easier than Broken trigger so 8a (Doylo says, and i think hes probably right)
Mr Fantastic was apparently 8a before the hold grew and is now way easier so 7c+
Cross therapy is similar so 7c+
Broken heart is not 8a with new betas
I thought Beatitudes Kiss was quite hard at 8a (pinch), dont know if Jordan said 7c+? but it has the new version of the v8+ grade attached!
As with the kneebars on trigger that annoyed everyone so much, greenheart Dans finish ect can be done bypassing the crux undercut move therefore they must be 8a at most.
The wire is a very similar grade to them so 8a for that as well.
Full circle I think Settled at 8a in the end. Me and CJD had half the sequence each his hands my feet = 1 semi decent boulderer.
You should include Lou Ferrino chipless its ace and roughly 8a.
broken sam and the highlife are both 7c+ now I think?
Liam Desroy Linked Rockattrocity to Clyde in 2008ish? 8a+.
So there we go.
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Mr Fantastic was apparently 8a before the hold grew and is now way easier so 7c+
Which hold, has the broken foothold grown again? Its hard to keep up with ever evolving problems and their respective grades!
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The start hold of bus stop that you get the heel hook in.
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Another one for Yorkshire.
Almscliff
Hymen Traverse - 8A - I did it in 2011 and I think it was the first ascent?
Great way to finish the Virgin Traverse.
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Updated! Anyone think of any more Yorkshire knowledge?
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0AoSRjxmc-dJsdEVMS2RodGJXY3pFSEoyVXVndFQzQWc&output=html
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What about the North York Moors stuff? Can't see that anywhere, or have I missed something?
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Any interest in adding South Wales problems to the list?
Namely Wife of Fyfe and Body Wisdom.
Wife of Fyfe is 8A, not 8A+? At least, that's what it says on Dave Macleod's blog.
I was going off the UKC logbook, but will change.
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Alright Greg Luv, how's it going?
Just to put forward a view (and that's all it is). Both Neon Handshake and Poppy's Move are 8b, and unrepeated. That's a fact - I know, I've climbed them, and lots more 8b's like them which where easier.
Compact Culture had a foothold break which makes the standard sequence harder (apparently). I didn't use it in the first place, so probably 8b. Grumble grumble :).
Well done on the psyche for this list - brilliant.
Changed 'Neon Handshake'. Is 'Poppy's Move' the same problem as 'Poppy's Reach' and if so what name do you want to use in the list?
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Dave is slightly sleep deprived and annoyed at present so maybe should be ignored...
Dolly Rocker FA is Me
Halfway House Was Malcolm
Trigger cut cant get 8a as the knees make it easy (again I keep getting told about 7b+ so they must be right)
Therefore Halfway must be at most 8a, therefore the link into uppercut must be 8a+ at a push, according to Dyer "not sure the uppercut links actually make a difference to the grade of anything because if you cant do the finish you will have already have fallen off going for the end move on directors" or words to that effect.
Therefore Directors must be at most 8a+. (Its just waiting for someone to climb it with the kneebars, me I aint going to bother as limestone seems to bring out the worst in people. It must be like dawes said climbing on dead sea creatures is bad for your chi)
Daisy from concrete is easier than Broken trigger so 8a (Doylo says, and i think hes probably right)
Mr Fantastic was apparently 8a before the hold grew and is now way easier so 7c+
Cross therapy is similar so 7c+
Broken heart is not 8a with new betas
I thought Beatitudes Kiss was quite hard at 8a (pinch), dont know if Jordan said 7c+? but it has the new version of the v8+ grade attached!
As with the kneebars on trigger that annoyed everyone so much, greenheart Dans finish ect can be done bypassing the crux undercut move therefore they must be 8a at most.
The wire is a very similar grade to them so 8a for that as well.
Full circle I think Settled at 8a in the end. Me and CJD had half the sequence each his hands my feet = 1 semi decent boulderer.
You should include Lou Ferrino chipless its ace and roughly 8a.
broken sam and the highlife are both 7c+ now I think?
Liam Desroy Linked Rockattrocity to Clyde in 2008ish? 8a+.
So there we go.
Think I've attended to this as best I can.
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What about the North York Moors stuff? Can't see that anywhere, or have I missed something?
Asked Lee for help with this but he was a bit reticent to give me the info: something to do with not wanting to attract people to the crags without the relevant access information.
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What about the North York Moors stuff? Can't see that anywhere, or have I missed something?
Asked Lee for help with this but he was a bit reticent to give me the info: something to do with not wanting to attract people to the crags without the relevant access information.
I've added the 5 I could fathom from web videos, blogs etc.
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Dave is slightly sleep deprived and annoyed at present so maybe should be ignored...
Dolly Rocker FA is Me
Halfway House Was Malcolm
Trigger cut cant get 8a as the knees make it easy (again I keep getting told about 7b+ so they must be right)
Therefore Halfway must be at most 8a, therefore the link into uppercut must be 8a+ at a push, according to Dyer "not sure the uppercut links actually make a difference to the grade of anything because if you cant do the finish you will have already have fallen off going for the end move on directors" or words to that effect.
Therefore Directors must be at most 8a+. (Its just waiting for someone to climb it with the kneebars, me I aint going to bother as limestone seems to bring out the worst in people. It must be like dawes said climbing on dead sea creatures is bad for your chi)
Daisy from concrete is easier than Broken trigger so 8a (Doylo says, and i think hes probably right)
Mr Fantastic was apparently 8a before the hold grew and is now way easier so 7c+
Cross therapy is similar so 7c+
Broken heart is not 8a with new betas
I thought Beatitudes Kiss was quite hard at 8a (pinch), dont know if Jordan said 7c+? but it has the new version of the v8+ grade attached!
As with the kneebars on trigger that annoyed everyone so much, greenheart Dans finish ect can be done bypassing the crux undercut move therefore they must be 8a at most.
The wire is a very similar grade to them so 8a for that as well.
Full circle I think Settled at 8a in the end. Me and CJD had half the sequence each his hands my feet = 1 semi decent boulderer.
You should include Lou Ferrino chipless its ace and roughly 8a.
broken sam and the highlife are both 7c+ now I think?
Liam Desroy Linked Rockattrocity to Clyde in 2008ish? 8a+.
So there we go.
Think I've attended to this as best I can.
Welcome to my world Greg - less a guidebook writer, more an argument referee! :boxing: ;D :boxing:
Poppy's Move and Neon Handshake were both given 8A+ by Chris originally... ::)
Compact Culture was graded 8B by Chris, but Tyler thought 8A+ when he repeated it (thus the split grade, as is normal procedure). - not sure about this broken foothold?
I'm sure there'll be more :worms: along the way. That's fine, just as long as we all stay friends at the end, right? ;)
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... and I didn't even mention kneebars. :ang:
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That's fine, just as long as we all stay friends at the end, right?
There's no such thing as friends when it comes to lists - cold, hard, completely ambiguous facts ;)
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ambiguous facts
Sweet! I love ambiguous facts.
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Back on track: Dave MacLeod has has given me his feedback on the Scots list and I have updated it accordingly.
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There is no arguing with facts, and the fact is that grades don't work! If they cant deal with morphology i.e Trigger and the knees, keen and the reach, finger size in slots on Downset, then grades are too narrow. Furthermore if as a group we cant decide on benchmarks for grades, which we almost did but everyone got bored of before we did, then there is no frame of reference to even bother trying.
Different body types are here to stay. As are different styles I find 7c+ in Le foret easier than in Cymru, but apparently every one drives "west out of Sheffield for a easy day" I apologise for the arsey nature of my conversations about grades but when you have all sorted them out let me know and I will try to use them again. Till then its 5, 5+,6,6+,7,7+,8 and 8+ (I wish) for me. Because if any of you are sure that the 7b+ wasn't a 7b on a weak day or a 7c on a strong day or whatever then yes I am pretty sure you have at best a 50/50 chance of being right.
Anyway did you not see the interview with Tyson Gay where he was complaining about Usain Bolt getting his "big legs out"?
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There is no arguing with facts, and the fact is that grades don't work!
Agreed although they don't really matter either :devangel:
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Agreed although they don't really matter either
Believe me I try to believe this. I really really do. Unfortunately the one above whatever I have done always seems so appealing. But that's because I am a competitive egotistical fool. Still you must know yourself to change yourself.
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Ha ha now the world knows what's been going round North Waleans inbox's for the last 4 months :smart:
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You be quiet Doylo, I still have the message where you told me you thought I should grade Broken trigger 8a+. Turncoat.
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If I wasn't using Tapatalk I'd post the can of worms smiley.
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You be quiet Doylo, I still have the message where you told me you thought I should grade Broken trigger 8a+. Turncoat.
Only so you'd look like a fool when it got downgraded ;)
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So is it ::) 3 or 4 years of trying it now?
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So is it ::) 3 or 4 years of trying it now?
Probably about 13 sessions which is about normal to be getting close on a 8a for me.
What percentage of your problems did we work out have been downgraded? Was it 60%? :whistle:
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Well when you climb so many good FA's people try to repeat them...
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Fuck you doylo I have had enough of your fucking stirring, youve got a small cock and from what I heard you cant even use that right
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Fuck you doylo I have had enough of your fucking stirring, youve got a small cock and from what I heard you cant even use that right
Get back to ur shitty job hoovering up peoples chalk and selling mars bars you taffy cunt
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Get back to ur shitty job hoovering up peoples chalk and selling mars bars you taffy cunt
well if i was off work sponging the dole for 2 years I would do more than nearly climb hard.
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Panton says he's defo putting Robins on the cover now as: "i won't sell fuck all with that ugly cunt dressed up as a tramp".
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and? guess you have to stir others up when all you've done is add different 7a finishes to a traverse to build up your fuking ego.
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Don't worry, i'm sure you'll find a way out of Floppys shadow before you're 40 (you might only overgrade by 1 by then!)
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cant think of anything else
love you really
:wub:
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cant think of anything else
love you really
:wub:
And you (when you wash). p.s. you'll get Mr whippy soon
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:clap2:
cant believe i didn't see it coming.
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Is it over already? :2thumbsup:
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Quality abuse gents - I salute you! :clap2:
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Brilliant!
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At the risk of venturing back on topic...
A few things from some of the older Yorkshire stuff:
Gaskins problem at Almscliff turned out not to be a Gaskins problem after all. Renamed Identity Crisis - FA Tim Clifford (2002), still only had one repeat I think from Stew Watson? Think both thought more 8A than 8A+ (but it's a bit reach dependent).
The problem John Gaskins climbed back in 1993 was actually "Cherry Falls Right" - ie: get the Cherry Falls crimp with LH, match as best as possible with R and go again with R straight for break. Dunno if it's been repeated. Probably somewhere in the 8A - 8A+ ish range.
Keelhaul, All Natural, Lip Service, Reel Keelhaul, Bulbhaul all in list. Quite how anyone decides which of these out of the ridiculous number of possible variations on these traverses are actually "problems" and which are eliminates I haven't got a clue... (Up till now it seems to just be the ones which someone has bothered to name?) But perhaps the "obvious" link of C+A into the Keel into the extension traverse isn't in... Also the grades of the problems which use the back wall are pretty much dependent on how long you milk the rests.
Not sure what Final Edition is at Caley - but unless it's something I use a different name for then I'm pretty sure Tim Clifford didn't do it... (Unless this is the unnamed dyno from the New Jerusalem crimp to the top which has acquired a name?, in which case he did...)
The RH sit start to New Jerusalem (ie: the obvious sit start rather than the one coming in from the left) maybe should be in, but I forget who did it and how hard. (Steve Dunning / Christian Durkin / Mike Gray come to mind but I might be talking nonsense?)
Has noone got round to doing Fred's Under Ten's or Upside Your Head since the holds broke around a decade ago? Tim Clifford reclimbed the moves in a few tries in the middle of summer years ago (it was too hot for the link on either) so they definitely still go unless there have been more recent changes?
Mistaken Identity - FA Tim Clifford (2003). Tim gave this 8A. Not sure who else has done it, but it went in guide at 7C+. At a guess Steve repeated it and it's easier with his height / armspan, but I'm pretty sure this will be at least 8A for almost everyone else?
Mistaken Identity Direct - I'm guessing Steve Dunning did this? Pretty sure it isn't going to happen for anyone other than the very tall (at least at around 8A...)???
Ralph LH Direct isn't a problem... (Ralph was the name given by Christian Durkin to one of the various versions of the problem which starts up The Pinch and traverses L (to various extents) before dynoing for the top. But different versions of this were older problems so think this went in the new guide without a name. (It was completely mis-described in the 2000 guide - hence Mistaken Identity...)
Missing Problems:
Ill Gotten Gains - Eastby - Steve Dunning gave this 8A+ I think. Heard a rumour of a repeat (or maybe repeats) with different sequence and easier grade but don't know for sure.
Does Mark Katz's direct version of Vicious Streak count as a separate problem?
Missing FA's:
Slim Shady - FA Dave Buchanan (2000)
Exocet - FA Steve Dunning (2000)
The Fonze - FA Andy Swann (2001)
Grades:
Take this with a pinch of salt - it's possible the following is well out of date (problems may have changed, grading standards shifted etc). But from the opinions I heard on this stuff years ago, I think maybe - Play Dead, To You Too, The Fonze, Sweet Dreams, Slim Shady, Exocet and probably a few more are more like 7C+ and Mr C more like 8A? Or if you want to keep them at the grade they are at, then some other things will probably need upgrading. Going the other way, this is wild speculation, but I suspect when they've had more ascents, No More Mr Next Try, Ranieri's Reach, Lanny Bassham and maybe a few others will be getting upgrades?
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Thanks Nemo, good to get some facts down. Ill Gotten Gains was reportedly repeated by Tom Newman who reckoned 7B+ but this info might be third hand. No-one's got close to Oo upside your head or Fred's under tens because they're brick hard and Bitcon is a mutant. Those things you suggested as 7C+ are all apparently borderline but I've heard evidence for them still being 8A. I'll leave them on for now. There's a few dynos knocking around which could be 8A but I've no idea.
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With regards to Scotland not sure it is worth having Chinese Democracy and My Evil Twin in there. Eliminate rules are crazy and unknown and not sure anyone has or will bother repeating with them. Both have been climbed at around 7c/+ with much more logical and obvious sequences...
Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2
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"No-one's got close to Oo upside your head or Fred's under tens because they're brick hard..." - andi_e
Backtracking rapidly ;) On re reading, what I said about those two problems came out way too definite and should have had disclaimers round it. Tim did try them - but thinking back, whether he did all the moves or whether there were bits missing I'm not at all sure. It was ages ago... I certainly got the impression they were both still doable (although the L one in particular looked v hard) - but if they've had attention and not been done since, that could easily have been the wrong impression. Hope they are still doable though because they look good.
Back at Almscliff, I was told Ian Bitcon did the full "Lip Trip" on Demon Wall Roof, starting along The Exorcist and continuing all the way along lip. Third hand info though.
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I'm pretty sure Peckitt and Dave Jones have had quick goes (if my memory serves me correctly) on Upside Your Head but on the day in question conditions weren't great and they were worried about firing off greasy things. I can't quite remember if this is the truth or if I've made it up. I'm also sure many other local heroes have had goes and there's definitely been a lot of chalk on it. Whether it's been done or not I've no idea but it's a big move to a small hold off a terrible side-pull and it's probably a one-move 8A, if not more. As for Fred's I'm not too sure, but I've hardly ever seen much chalk on it.
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Some fat punter pulled off the crimp (which was used on the FA) from Fred's under Tens, but it has been repeated at the same grade, albeit with a different and pretty awkward method. Another fat punter pulled off a crucial pebble (also used on the FA) from Upside Your Head which has made it well hard and I've no idea if anyone's done it since; pulling off the ground seems barely possible. Stack of good hard problems on this wall. Bitcon was on fire when he nailed these two problems.
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Apparently Bitcon could be pointed at anything back in the day and as long as he could span between the "holds", he could climb it, no matter how shit the holds were.
So is Fred's still 7C+? Any opinion on Slapstick (AKA Mike's Problem)? I seem to remember running into said Mike at Joker's Wall and he said it might by easier than 8A. But again, the guy's clearly a beast.
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Anyone know about anything in the Bristol area other than this?
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=230634 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=230634)
Not sure about anything else around here, but thumb wars extension is eliminate rubbish of training merit only, and doesn't deserve a name, let alone a place on this list, though it's certainly hard.
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Word up Greg. For the Yarkshire list there is quite a few hard links now at Whitehouses. I can't comment on Crome's stuff (other than they look nails and some incredible beta to turn the lip on the right hand ride) but check out http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=2772, (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=2772,) however Katzsy did a really cool 8a+/8b (v12/13) link called 'Yes we Can'.
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If Andy reads this, perhaps he can comment and/or draw a little topo?
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The Trial of slinky Bobs master has been repeated quite a few times since the hold broke. Don't really make any difference to the grade!
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As the 8's tick lists are all on Google Docs I've shared most of them with others (i.e. folk more in the know than me) so they can add/alter stuff when relevant.
At the moment I've got no 'direct collaborators' for Wales or Ireland? Does anyone fancy helping out? You just need a google account/gmail email address...
Thanks.
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I can do Wales
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You just need a google account/gmail email address...
If you don't have one then pass on your normal email address.
If Greg shares a document with that email address there should then be a link somewhere to sign up for an account to allow you to then edit the document.
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I can do Wales
I've put your hotmail address in, let me know if you get an email.
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Some from the peak that I can't see on the list.
Chris Webb Parsons did "Working 9-5" in Sean's Roof, 8A+
Also, Catch sds, Rowtor, 8A, Mike Adams
Dawid's Infinite Suspense at Tideswell Dale might also be 8A - so far I think unrepeated?
A few of Dawid's are missing - he sent me this list:
Influx, Raven Tor, 8a
If Detox (I think that it is 7c+) is there than La Musee Extension should be there for sure as it is harder
Hook RH, Raven Tor, 8a (no heel out to the side & takes tight line of holds)
Wild East, Raven Tor, 8a+
Andronicus is 8a+
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Nice one cheers Robin I'll get them added.
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I can do Wales
I've put your hotmail address in, let me know if you get an email.
got it
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Coming up for Air - Stanage - 8A? - (Me -2012)
Might not be 8A, I thought it was brick the day I did it and Stu Littlefair said I had to give it 8A ;)
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http://stonecountry.blogspot.co.uk/2005_12_01_archive.html (http://stonecountry.blogspot.co.uk/2005_12_01_archive.html)
I knew there was more at Thirlstane. - this mentions Shrinking Violet Sitter at V11.
And also Smokescreen at Dumby at V12???
Not sure if these grades or names have changed, it's pretty old info.
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Smokescreen 7C/+ I think so shouldn't be in.
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Ah OK. grade settled a bit?
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Some from the peak that I can't see on the list.
Chris Webb Parsons did "Working 9-5" in Sean's Roof, 8A+
Also, Catch sds, Rowtor, 8A, Mike Adams
Dawid's Infinite Suspense at Tideswell Dale might also be 8A - so far I think unrepeated?
A few of Dawid's are missing - he sent me this list:
Influx, Raven Tor, 8a
If Detox (I think that it is 7c+) is there than La Musee Extension should be there for sure as it is harder
Hook RH, Raven Tor, 8a (no heel out to the side & takes tight line of holds)
Wild East, Raven Tor, 8a+
Andronicus is 8a+
Added.
Still need to add the Mag Lime list from Mike Adams, which I have but just need to incorporate into the main list. Will do so this week.
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New beta. The original way he did it is nails. But people still think Pressure is 8B if you finish it with the new Smokescreen beta. Dave's an animal.
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What are 9-5 and Wild East r-man?
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Working 9-5 is the sitter to Dawid's Back to Black, but finishing leftwards up Paint it Black. The sitter adds a hard crimpy move to gain the wavy crimp.
Wild East is something above the Keen Roof lip, I think. I'll find out.
If any Tor addicts are interested, I could draw some lines on a photo of the Keen Roof/Weedkiller area - there are a few problems not in the guide (sympathy in choice, wild east, shades of grey, wee dimension). Don't have a photo though - so if someone wants to send me one, I'll do the deed.
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I was wrong about the Wild East location - here's the description:
Start on same holds as Dan's Pump up the Valium but dyno with your right to the right sika glued hold (one to the left of hooligan holds) and match it to finish. Could be climbed higher with not much difficulty from there, but it would be a highball/route.
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I've added Mike Adams' mag lime list to the main list as well as making the other suggested updates. Also, added a rock type column as I thought this maybe useful.
Peak 8's List in all it glory...
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0AoSRjxmc-dJsdEFfYmx6MlZ1cFYzbHhiTGNSYTAyQUE&output=html
Over 150 font8's!
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Amazing Effort Greg. I not you've kept the can of worms regarding repeats firmly closed!
Samson - should be marked as highball??
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Cheers Chris. Will amend 'Samson'.
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I've added Mike Adams' mag lime list to the main list as well as making the other suggested updates. Also, added a rock type column as I thought this maybe useful.
Peak 8's List in all it glory...
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0AoSRjxmc-dJsdEFfYmx6MlZ1cFYzbHhiTGNSYTAyQUE&output=html
Over 150 font8's!
The list looks great, stirling work
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Nice list. One thing: Steve said Boy band/stamina band was 8c+/9a route grade, making it the same as SB/PUTP but in that list they're down as 2 grades different (8A+ and 8B+). Don't think Steve ever gave a boulder grade for BB/SB but grade maths says they should both probably be 8B... At the least I suspect BB/SB needs notching up one.
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Dawid's Infinite Suspense at Tideswell Dale might also be 8A - so far I think unrepeated?
I obviously have no authority on that grade or the problem (Ive tried it for about 5 mins and loved the holds). But how nice would it be to have a pleasant lime 8a in the peak....
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In the words of Mr Pickford: "Give it 8a. Everyone likes an 8a."
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Think he would have given it 8A to start with if I hadn't suggested 7C+, just because I felt close to doing it. But I never did stick the crux, so he probably shouldn't have listened to me. ;)