Mr Fantastic was apparently 8a before the hold grew and is now way easier so 7c+
Quote from: standard on August 23, 2012, 01:21:13 pmAny interest in adding South Wales problems to the list?Namely Wife of Fyfe and Body Wisdom.Wife of Fyfe is 8A, not 8A+? At least, that's what it says on Dave Macleod's blog.
Any interest in adding South Wales problems to the list?Namely Wife of Fyfe and Body Wisdom.
Alright Greg Luv, how's it going?Just to put forward a view (and that's all it is). Both Neon Handshake and Poppy's Move are 8b, and unrepeated. That's a fact - I know, I've climbed them, and lots more 8b's like them which where easier.Compact Culture had a foothold break which makes the standard sequence harder (apparently). I didn't use it in the first place, so probably 8b. Grumble grumble .Well done on the psyche for this list - brilliant.
Dave is slightly sleep deprived and annoyed at present so maybe should be ignored...Dolly Rocker FA is MeHalfway House Was MalcolmTrigger cut cant get 8a as the knees make it easy (again I keep getting told about 7b+ so they must be right)Therefore Halfway must be at most 8a, therefore the link into uppercut must be 8a+ at a push, according to Dyer "not sure the uppercut links actually make a difference to the grade of anything because if you cant do the finish you will have already have fallen off going for the end move on directors" or words to that effect.Therefore Directors must be at most 8a+. (Its just waiting for someone to climb it with the kneebars, me I aint going to bother as limestone seems to bring out the worst in people. It must be like dawes said climbing on dead sea creatures is bad for your chi)Daisy from concrete is easier than Broken trigger so 8a (Doylo says, and i think hes probably right)Mr Fantastic was apparently 8a before the hold grew and is now way easier so 7c+Cross therapy is similar so 7c+ Broken heart is not 8a with new betasI thought Beatitudes Kiss was quite hard at 8a (pinch), dont know if Jordan said 7c+? but it has the new version of the v8+ grade attached!As with the kneebars on trigger that annoyed everyone so much, greenheart Dans finish ect can be done bypassing the crux undercut move therefore they must be 8a at most.The wire is a very similar grade to them so 8a for that as well.Full circle I think Settled at 8a in the end. Me and CJD had half the sequence each his hands my feet = 1 semi decent boulderer.You should include Lou Ferrino chipless its ace and roughly 8a.broken sam and the highlife are both 7c+ now I think?Liam Desroy Linked Rockattrocity to Clyde in 2008ish? 8a+.So there we go.
What about the North York Moors stuff? Can't see that anywhere, or have I missed something?
Quote from: r-man on August 24, 2012, 11:55:49 amWhat about the North York Moors stuff? Can't see that anywhere, or have I missed something?Asked Lee for help with this but he was a bit reticent to give me the info: something to do with not wanting to attract people to the crags without the relevant access information.
Quote from: nodder on August 24, 2012, 10:01:14 amDave is slightly sleep deprived and annoyed at present so maybe should be ignored...Dolly Rocker FA is MeHalfway House Was MalcolmTrigger cut cant get 8a as the knees make it easy (again I keep getting told about 7b+ so they must be right)Therefore Halfway must be at most 8a, therefore the link into uppercut must be 8a+ at a push, according to Dyer "not sure the uppercut links actually make a difference to the grade of anything because if you cant do the finish you will have already have fallen off going for the end move on directors" or words to that effect.Therefore Directors must be at most 8a+. (Its just waiting for someone to climb it with the kneebars, me I aint going to bother as limestone seems to bring out the worst in people. It must be like dawes said climbing on dead sea creatures is bad for your chi)Daisy from concrete is easier than Broken trigger so 8a (Doylo says, and i think hes probably right)Mr Fantastic was apparently 8a before the hold grew and is now way easier so 7c+Cross therapy is similar so 7c+ Broken heart is not 8a with new betasI thought Beatitudes Kiss was quite hard at 8a (pinch), dont know if Jordan said 7c+? but it has the new version of the v8+ grade attached!As with the kneebars on trigger that annoyed everyone so much, greenheart Dans finish ect can be done bypassing the crux undercut move therefore they must be 8a at most.The wire is a very similar grade to them so 8a for that as well.Full circle I think Settled at 8a in the end. Me and CJD had half the sequence each his hands my feet = 1 semi decent boulderer.You should include Lou Ferrino chipless its ace and roughly 8a.broken sam and the highlife are both 7c+ now I think?Liam Desroy Linked Rockattrocity to Clyde in 2008ish? 8a+.So there we go.Think I've attended to this as best I can.
That's fine, just as long as we all stay friends at the end, right?
ambiguous facts
There is no arguing with facts, and the fact is that grades don't work!
Agreed although they don't really matter either
You be quiet Doylo, I still have the message where you told me you thought I should grade Broken trigger 8a+. Turncoat.