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Elite UKBouldering Inventory RE-BOOT (Read 39706 times)

Greg C

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Elite UKBouldering Inventory RE-BOOT
August 18, 2012, 03:57:06 pm
Despite being massively out of date, the EliteUKBouldering Inventory blog/site still gets quite a bit of traffic, thus I presume people liked the idea(?). As I should of just kept on top of it in the first place I'm going to reboot the concept.

I'm in the process of backfilling/dating news (2009-2012) reports into the archive, is there any chance the UKB collective could give me some assistance in updating the old tick lists?

All below...

http://www.lakesbloc.com/EUKBI_Lists/peakdistrict.pdf

http://www.lakesbloc.com/EUKBI_Lists/yorkshire.pdf

http://www.lakesbloc.com/EUKBI_Lists/wales.pdf

http://www.lakesbloc.com/EUKBI_Lists/northumberland.pdf

http://www.lakesbloc.com/EUKBI_Lists/lakedistrict.pdf

http://www.lakesbloc.com/EUKBI_Lists/scotland.pdf

http://www.lakesbloc.com/EUKBI_Lists/southwest.pdf

Also be keen on a list of the 8As in Ireland and anything that has happened in the South East...

Thanks in advance.

(The site is down for the time being, while I update it.)

Doylo

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#1 Re: Elite UKBouldering Inventory RE-BOOT
August 18, 2012, 08:59:51 pm
will give u a hand with wales, problems under 2 ft do count don't they?

Greg C

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#2 Re: Elite UKBouldering Inventory RE-BOOT
August 19, 2012, 09:16:37 am
Thanks Doylo. Yeah one mover arse-dragers are welcome... this is Britain  ;)

I'll get the lists put onto Google Docs, rather than PDFs - they'll be easier to keep up to date.

tomtom

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#3 Re: Elite UKBouldering Inventory RE-BOOT
August 19, 2012, 10:12:46 am
Keelhaul is in twice in Yorkshire...

S Smith

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#4 Re: Elite UKBouldering Inventory RE-BOOT
August 19, 2012, 10:32:51 am
I think this is a great idea.  I'll do up the Irish list when I get a few mins

Greg C

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#5 Re: Elite UKBouldering Inventory RE-BOOT
August 19, 2012, 10:39:14 am
Keelhaul is in twice in Yorkshire...

Could do with someone actually doing the Yorkshire list properly - I can email an excel/Google Docs link file to make things easier. Any takers?

Greg C

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#6 Re: Elite UKBouldering Inventory RE-BOOT
August 19, 2012, 10:43:55 am
I think this is a great idea.  I'll do up the Irish list when I get a few mins

Thanks that would be great, PM me if you want me to email you the Excel version...

I've got someone helping me with the Peak (Bonjoy/ and hopefully Mike Adams), Southwest (Tackleberry) and Wales (Doylo).

I'm going to email the Higlander about Scotland, hopefully he'll help out, and Mr. V about Northumberland.

So help with Yorkshire and the South East would be useful...

Thanks.

S Smith

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#7 Re: Elite UKBouldering Inventory RE-BOOT
August 19, 2012, 11:21:37 am
PM me if you want me to email you the Excel version...

Will do.  In the meantime, here's a google docs I put together.


Greg C

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#8 Re: Elite UKBouldering Inventory RE-BOOT
August 19, 2012, 01:28:48 pm
PM me if you want me to email you the Excel version...

Will do.  In the meantime, here's a google docs I put together.

Cool thanks.

Adam Lincoln

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#9 Re: Elite UKBouldering Inventory RE-BOOT
August 19, 2012, 04:05:28 pm
As far as scottish stuff goes.

Sabotage is 8a now.
Sabotaged is 8a. Fa will atkinson
Le saboteur is 8a/+ Fa malc smith

Chahala ss is 8a+


SA Chris

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#10 Re: Elite UKBouldering Inventory RE-BOOT
August 20, 2012, 09:09:28 am
I'm far from an expert so don't reaally want to take on the full task, but I know there are some new things at Torridon Jumble by Dan V;

Stokes Croft 8a
Roof of the Brave 8a

I'm sure richieb or dan V can supply details of anything else

and Tim Rankin did

Devistator 8a at Cammachmore Bay in Jan 2011

Dave Mac did At Eternity's Gate at the Arisaig cave - V13??

and Triangulation which he gave "8a Ballpark"

Then there's the Screapadal Prow he did on Raasay and gave 7c+ but it looks harder.

I'm sure there is loads of other stuff.

Pantontino

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#11 Re: Elite UKBouldering Inventory RE-BOOT
August 20, 2012, 10:25:34 am
Good to see this up and running again Greg. I'm sure Doylo will give you all the relevant info (particularly on the limestone stuff) ,but glancing at the Welsh mountain crag list there are lots of new additions and lots of grade changes (some because of downgrades from repeaters, some because of broken holds).

For example:

New Noise re-climbed with new lower start

Roadside arete in Diesel Power is arbitrary - not really any harder than original

Mr Fantastic is 8A or perhaps even easier now

Subversion and Sub Society 7C+

Compact Culture split grade FA and repeater thought different: 8A+/B

What it is to burn is very minor - I would leave it out

Cross therapy probably 7C+


New stuff in mountains/down Lleyn:

Isles of Wonder 8B - Ogwen - Carreg Mianog - Pete Robins 2012 (unrepeated)

Go Motion 8A Crafnant - Pete Robins 2012 (unrepeated)

Worzel Gunnage 8A/+ - Llanberis Pass - Cromlech Boulders Richard Ames 2011 (repeated by Dave Noden)

My Own Private Idaho 8B - Crafnant - Chris Davies 2011 (unrepeated)

Corridors of Power 7C+/8A - Llanberis Pass - Cwm Glas Bach Dave Noden 2010 (given 8A, but Pete Robins thought 7C+)

The Tracks 8A+ - Llanberis Pass - The Barrel Dave Noden 2010 (repeated by Pete Robins)

Stoned Temple Pilots 8A/+ - Llanberis Pass - The Barrel Chris Davies 2010 (given 8A+, but Pete Robins thought 8A)

Danny LaRue 7C+/8A! - Ogwen Valley, Lily Savage Area Mike Adams 2010 (unrepeated)

Dolly Rocker 8A - Lleyn - Porth Ysgo - Dave Noden 2010 (repeated by Mike Adams)

The Crest sds 8A+ - Bethesda Wave - Ogwen Dave Noden 2010 (repeated by Pete Robins)

Left Said Fred 8A - Lleyn - Porth Ysgo - Mike Adams 2010 (unrepeated)

A Life Aesthetic 8B - Tremadog - Moel y Gest - Chris Davies 2009 (unrepeated)

Light Weight 8A - Dolwyddelan - Craig Pont y Pant (aka: Rhiw Goch) Chris Davies 2009 (repeated by Pete Robins)

Jerry’s Left Hand 8A - Ogwen - Sheep Pen Boulders Adam Hocking 2008 (unrepeated)

Kingdom of Fear 8A - Ogwen - Sheep Pen Boulders Adam Hocking 2007 (unrepeated)

Kingdom of Pain 8A - Ogwen - Sheep Pen Boulders Adam Hocking 2007 (repeated by Pete Robins)


Still quite a few unrepeated grade 8s in the mountains - if any strong types fancy popping over to Wales and giving them a go this autumn I'd appreciate any feedback for the new guide, even if you don't get up them any opinion on the grades is better than nothing. Otherwise we just have to rely upon the fa's suggestion and/or Pete Robins.

Pantontino

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#12 Re: Elite UKBouldering Inventory RE-BOOT
August 20, 2012, 10:48:37 am
Forgot to say but other unrepeated stuff in the mountains include:

Hippocampus 8A/+

New Noise low start 8A+

This Parade 8A+



Neon Handshake 8A+ (this looks really good and has a better landing now)

Poppy's Reach 8A+

Full Punks Trav 8A (suspect this is easier, but could be wrong?)


Pantontino

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#13 Re: Elite UKBouldering Inventory RE-BOOT
August 20, 2012, 10:57:35 am
...and apologies to Greg for the slight hijack of the thread. I just got carried away...  :oops:

willackers

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#14 Re: Elite UKBouldering Inventory RE-BOOT
August 20, 2012, 11:10:43 am
As far as scottish stuff goes.

Sabotage is 8a now.
Sabotaged is 8a. Fa will atkinson
Le saboteur is 8a/+ Fa malc smith

Chahala ss is 8a+

Spam Dagger 7C+/8A
Mr Tickle 8A
Mr Tickle Extension 8A+ (maybe 8B)  ;)
« Last Edit: August 20, 2012, 11:18:07 am by willackers »

Pantontino

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#15 Re: Elite UKBouldering Inventory RE-BOOT
August 20, 2012, 11:50:10 am
Another Welsh mountain one that I forgot:

Beatitude Kiss 8A - Tremadog - Moel y Gest Dave Noden 2009 (unrepeated? This may have been chipped after Dave's ascent)

Greg C

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#16 Re: Elite UKBouldering Inventory RE-BOOT
August 20, 2012, 12:54:50 pm
...and apologies to Greg for the slight hijack of the thread. I just got carried away...  :oops:

No worries good to see some good psyche! Thanks to everyone for the feedback.

Site's back live: http://www.eliteukbinventory.blogspot.co.uk/

I've updated the layout and added quite a bit of backdated news (although will be adding more as the lists are updated) and re-booted the lists into dynamic Google Docs - so they should be easier to keep up to date. Many of the lists are yet to be updated but they are live so people can view them as they progress and suggest additions/amendments.


SA Chris

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#17 Re: Elite UKBouldering Inventory RE-BOOT
August 20, 2012, 01:06:16 pm
Also Dave Mac has done 7 of 9 in Glen Nevis @ 8b+ in April 2011

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#18 Re: Elite UKBouldering Inventory RE-BOOT
August 20, 2012, 01:08:29 pm
word up  - don't forget about all the south yorks limestone (roche abbey, conisborough, sprotborough, anston etc), plenty of 8s there, and no doubt all mick's secret crags down newark way or wherever they are.

Greg C

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Greg C

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#20 Re: Elite UKBouldering Inventory RE-BOOT
August 20, 2012, 01:10:19 pm
word up  - don't forget about all the south yorks limestone (roche abbey, conisborough, sprotborough, anston etc), plenty of 8s there, and no doubt all mick's secret crags down newark way or wherever they are.

I emailed Mick yesterday, hopefully he will give me the relevant info to stick on a list.

gme

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#21 Re: Elite UKBouldering Inventory RE-BOOT
August 20, 2012, 01:32:01 pm
looking at the northumberland list i am guessing that

the crack standing has been downgraded from 8a to ? (7c) (never was given it until the 1st guide decided to publish it at that)
Prep H standing is no longer 8a (sit start in at 8a ???)
The magician no longer 8a?
Purely belter (no longer 8a (7c))
Time and punishment (no longer 8a or missed)
Scar tissue (ditto)
Antihydral (ditto)
The Young down from 8a+ to ???. (not a boulder problem in my mind)

And do you include for link ups ie cubbys in to yman (8a?)

Greg C

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#22 Re: Elite UKBouldering Inventory RE-BOOT
August 20, 2012, 01:37:53 pm
looking at the northumberland list i am guessing that

the crack standing has been downgraded from 8a to ? (7c) (never was given it until the 1st guide decided to publish it at that)
Prep H standing is no longer 8a (sit start in at 8a ???)
The magician no longer 8a?
Purely belter (no longer 8a (7c))
Time and punishment (no longer 8a or missed)
Scar tissue (ditto)
Antihydral (ditto)
The Young down from 8a+ to ???. (not a boulder problem in my mind)

And do you include for link ups ie cubbys in to yman (8a?)

Dan did this list.

T_B

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#23 Re: Elite UKBouldering Inventory RE-BOOT
August 20, 2012, 01:40:54 pm
Cue Gav "I was climbing soft 8as in the county before he was born"  :P

gme

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#24 Re: Elite UKBouldering Inventory RE-BOOT
August 20, 2012, 02:03:45 pm
Dont want any soft grades up here, couldnt do 8a then, hence why the crack was never that grade, and even less likely now. Just wouldnt want any of you southerners coming up here for an easy time.

I had noticed a bit of upward creep in the last two guides, hopefully this will be addressed in the next one, if not by the time i am 60 i will have climbed two grades harder than in my 20s.

Luckily Dan appears to be in charge of grades now so its likely to stay the same way as it was originally intended to be, sandbag heaven.

 

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