UKBouldering.com
places to visit => indoor walls => Topic started by: Adam Lincoln on January 07, 2010, 05:42:02 pm
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Sounds good
http://www.rockoverclimbing.co.uk/index.html (http://www.rockoverclimbing.co.uk/index.html)
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Isn't Manc getting a bit saturated with climbing walls now? From what I remember you've got:
Broughton
Manchester Climbing Centre
Awesome Walls Stockport
Rope Race
Climb UK
And now this new one. Plus Warrington wall isn't far off down the M62. When I climbed there plenty of Mancs made the commute.
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there will be only 1 good one
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(http://www.rockoverclimbing.co.uk/img/banners/image009.png)
Looking at the banner photo from their site makes you wonder how well they understand their target audience.
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Training people up to pull fierce moves at 8000m? :thumbsup:
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(http://www.rockoverclimbing.co.uk/img/banners/image009.png)
Looking at the banner photo from their site makes you wonder how well they understand their target audience.
There is a lot to be said for targeted marketing and identifying with your customer, but there's tons of overlap between the "disciplines" of climbing and mountaineers also boulder (unless their name is K Cool).
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well, pick another one then
(http://www.rockoverclimbing.co.uk/img/banners/image001.png)
(http://www.rockoverclimbing.co.uk/img/banners/image002.png)
(http://www.rockoverclimbing.co.uk/img/banners/image003.png)
(http://www.rockoverclimbing.co.uk/img/banners/image004.png)
(http://www.rockoverclimbing.co.uk/img/banners/image005.png)
(http://www.rockoverclimbing.co.uk/img/banners/image006.png)
(http://www.rockoverclimbing.co.uk/img/banners/image007.png)
(http://www.rockoverclimbing.co.uk/img/banners/image008.png)
(http://www.rockoverclimbing.co.uk/img/banners/image009.png)
(http://www.rockoverclimbing.co.uk/img/banners/image010.png)
(http://www.rockoverclimbing.co.uk/img/banners/image011.png)
(http://www.rockoverclimbing.co.uk/img/banners/image012.png)
(http://www.rockoverclimbing.co.uk/img/banners/image013.png)
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So is this The wall that Rupert Davies (Ru) is involved in then? Anybody know where-abouts it is?
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Nothing to do with me.
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manchester hasn't got a good climbing wall....though i think salford has one.
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Isn't Manc getting a bit saturated with climbing walls now? From what I remember you've got:
Broughton
Manchester Climbing Centre
Awesome Walls Stockport
Rope Race
Climb boulder UK
And now this new one. Plus Warrington wall isn't far off down the M62. When I climbed there plenty of Mancs made the commute.
none are up to the standard of the new crop of dedicated facilities. Broughton is good. (I couldn't imagine
going tonight though! -10would not be fun! it was cold enough on Sundaywhen it was about 0degrees! and yes I'm southern)
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Climb boulder UK
I think Greg was referring to Climb UK (http://www.climbukltd.com/), it's a bit closer to Manc that BUK.
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my bad. its still not that good
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manchester hasn't got a good climbing wall....though i think salford has one.
Agreed, Broughton = king of walls.
f&% the plastic...
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manchester hasn't got a good climbing wall....though i think salford has one.
Agreed, Broughton = king of walls.
If you want to train for Yorkshire lime routes.
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Nothing to do with me.
Is yours still happening/was ever going to happen Ru? (I'd heard rumour of it on the Mancehester grapevine).
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Where in Manchester is this going? North/East/South/West?
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awful name
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Does the name have anything to do with Andy Jennings?
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Or Rob Smith.
Tris - it says centre.
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did a bit of web stalking and the limited company and the website are both registered to an address in west didsbury which i suspect is the guys house rather than company premises. certainly a lack of pictures or detail about the centre.
Cheers
Tim
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It is his house and the company was only set up three days ago. This isn't relevant, I was just being nosey.
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It's all pretty strange as you'd have thought someone keen enough to open a bouldering wall would be known to at least someone either on here or among the other climbers I know. Seems like a (very welcome) bolt from the blue. Would be something of a committment as well as city centre commercial premises with lots of parking space don't come cheap.
Edit: Oops, it seems they are known to folk on here, I posted too soon!
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It is his house and the company was only set up three days ago. This isn't relevant, I was just being nosey.
aye not dissing the guy, sure it is genuine and a good addition. Just would be nice to see some pics, know when it might be open, and where it is, especialy since it is perporting to be the "North West's premier bouldering centre"
Tim
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There is some info about the guy here and more links on the left but no more exact info as to where in Manchester the bouldering wall is, thanks for pointing out it is actually in the centre Dobbin, I missed that :beer2:
There is also a gallery of pics but looks to be non climbing centre related.
http://www.rockoverclimbing.co.uk/about.html (http://www.rockoverclimbing.co.uk/about.html)
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Erection, La Grave. Good tick.
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This seems all very strange, the website gives the impression they aren't 'boulderers' and surely there must be someone/others involved with more idea about providing a successful facility for all abilities.....
I suspect it may be a smokescreen at present, because either the building isnt secured or they haven't actually found a building yet?
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There is some info about the guy here and more links on the left but no more exact info as to where in Manchester the bouldering wall is, thanks for pointing out it is actually in the centre Dobbin, I missed that :beer2:
There is also a gallery of pics but looks to be non climbing centre related.
http://www.rockoverclimbing.co.uk/about.html (http://www.rockoverclimbing.co.uk/about.html)
Yikes! He really should have had that lot proof read before putting it on line. Swaps from third to first person and tons of spelling mistakes. I know peeps get shouted down for pedantry on here but if thats going to be his livelihood it needs to look professional.
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how can you claim to have a fantastic atmosphere when it doesn't even exist yet?
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From the other channel: (http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=388610)
by - Tom Stewart on - 18:59 Fri
It is going to be right in the city centre, within 3 minutes walk from Victoria Station.
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urbis? Men? Or maybe that gaff that used to be a skate park by band on the wall? Under the railway arches?
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be very keen to see the quality of this place.
when i first read their websites write up, i was already questioning a few things - how can they promote a fantastic atmosphere just yet? we [the general public] have only just found out! and the northwest Premier bouldering location...have they been to buk or broughton, for whom i will vouch for their top flight in that league
then reading clm's post and his link, tom don't seem to be a dedicated boulderer as there is no mention of any ascents. hopefully the wall builders he's hired knows what a dedicated premier bouldering wall needs
broughton will always be that area's premier location. until it gets knocked down for more social housing
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The word is that its very close to Victoria stn, will have more bouldering than the works and a dry tooling room!
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There is also word that they don't actually have the building yet :whistle:
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I don't mean to be funny, but what's the point of a dry tooling room? There's not a lot of people that need to train for dry tooling 'cos not too many people operate at that level, so I really can't see them heading to ths place to get that extra grade.
Why waste space when you could bung in a campus board/ rings etc?
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Because this place is mahoosive, and there is room for everything!
There gonna have a nice woody, campus board and all that shizzle spread over 3 floors.
Im saying no more, I may get shot as it is!
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there's always room for dryboning
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what about a milking room for saltus?
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Because this place is mahoosive, and there is room for everything!
There gonna have a nice woody, campus board and all that shizzle spread over 3 floors.
Im saying no more, I may get shot as it is!
11,000 square Feet? Pretty much the same size as the works? Something will have to give to fit everything in like you say...
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Because this place is mahoosive, and there is room for everything!
There gonna have a nice woody, campus board and all that shizzle spread over 3 floors.
Im saying no more, I may get shot as it is!
i can't think of any buildings over 3 floors around that area at the mo. by strangeways or off bury old road near the asian fashion houses/close to broughton?
i wonder if its an andy long built wall as jamie cassidy did mention andy's next build was a secretive one
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Nomnok is on the money.
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what about a milking room for saltus?
and a fisting chamber? bring your ball gag and your red leather zip mask, and your fingerless satin fisting gloves.
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and a fisting chamber? bring your ball gag and your red leather zip mask, and your fingerless satin fisting gloves.
Sorry for going :off: but.....
Why would fisting gloves be fingerless, surely that's missing the point?
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try them
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try them
:lol:
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try them
I'm having difficulty finding the fingerless ones to be honest, I put 'satin fisting glove' into Google and it came back with this:
(http://www.gerrymay.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/jacko-glove.jpg)
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is it gonna cost as much as stockport wall? £7.50 for the shittest bouldering wall and the shittest set probs i've ever had the displeasure to climb on. is manchester in london? no
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Another one for the OE book of quotations ;)
I can see the day coming when we have drive through McBouldering walls at this rate.
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So is this The wall that Rupert Davies (Ru) is involved in then?
That was my initial thought too.
I'm curious as to exactly where it is.
Substantial industrial building in the area which has applied for a change of use? Maybe some internet digging with unearth some answers.
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I did that yesterday by looking on the Manchester council planning site but couldn't see anything. Looked for any change of use applications in the last six months, mind you 2-3 mins from Victoria could be in Trafford or somewhere not covered.
I'm worried that this is all sounding like a bit of a witch hunt with doubts about the wall before anyone knows anything (I'm as guilty as anyone, I know) and I'd hate to put him off.
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is it gonna cost as much as stockport wall? £7.50 for the shittest bouldering wall and the shittest set probs i've ever had the displeasure to climb on. is manchester in london? no
Ever been to RockCity in Hull? Its £7.50 AND £10 year membership... and its not the largest of bouldering areas...
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is it gonna cost as much as stockport wall? £7.50 for the shittest bouldering wall and the shittest set probs i've ever had the displeasure to climb on. is manchester in london? no
And they don't have off peak rates. Even Manchester Corporate Events Climbing Centre has that.
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is it gonna cost as much as stockport wall? £7.50 for the shittest bouldering wall and the shittest set probs i've ever had the displeasure to climb on. is manchester in london? no
:off:
stockport is log. hence its name logport.
however it has gotten better. how could you tell the difference between a mono on the motherboard or the one you hung off at onthe 45 at logport?
the new crop of problems are far better set (done by cassidy and vickers). you got the worst of both worlds, badly set and badly overdue in need of resetting ie filthy. the problem is i think i may be the only person that ever cleans them.
the 45 is a bit of a shame really it needs tweaking badly, why the fuck is there a bog seat on it. ho ho ho how fucking funny. apparently they approached the beastmaker boys but then didn't get back in touch. which i think is an opportunity missed. and its a real shame they painted that board.
as for 7.50 is it in london? no. but it doesn't cost ten pounds to get in. it also has routes and quite alot of them. if you choose not to use them that is your issue. some are quite good. again when set by vickers and cassidy.
its not perfect, but its better than it used to be.
also off peak rates fuck me off a bit (but only cos I'm hungry and tired). why should i be penalised for having a fucking job and having to go when everyone else is cluttering up my personal bodyspace! if you're there in the middle of the afternoon get a fucking job, or be grateful you're not at work. I was at the works on monday afternoon and it was delightful before 6. you should probably have to pay more.
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:off: again! I think the recent set of problems are quite good at Stockport but the grading is very inconsistant. A lot of the reds are way harder than the greens and the only hard green is that one up the back left wave feature. Vickers seems to be a bit bipolar with his setting! Sometimes they are steady away and other times I feel like he is having a laugh at my expense! Either way he is a good experienced problem setter and at least they employ someone who knows how to set good problems unlike many other walls.
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guy in broughton seemed to think that it was already built and that someone (name escapes me) was busy route setting. He thinks its in the warehousing bury new road way. I think hewas referring to the old (ahem) rumour mill.
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barans setting me thinks
good luck to them I say, just hope it doesn't take away the business from broughton.
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is it gonna cost as much as stockport wall? £7.50 for the shittest bouldering wall and the shittest set probs i've ever had the displeasure to climb on. is manchester in london? no
Wow, don't hold back mate :o!
With such a big choice of walls in the area I'm surprised we still exist if things are that bad :-\!!!
Oh well, I'll try harder.
Dave Douglas
Awesome Walls Climbing Centres Ltd
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sorry for the hijack and :off: (this is directed at Dave Douglas)
but when I phoned up a few weeks ago and asked if you (awesome walls stockport) were open till 10 and they said yes and then I get kicked out at 8 just over an hour into my session cos there is not enough people in (without any refund) and then when i go back next week and the same bloke who remembers me refused to even give me a discount and basically gets arsey with me then it pisses me off. Also £7.50 is too much
Saltbeef is only sucking your cock cos he's got to justify his months pass and he forgets the rest of us don't get paid bum doctors rates
Admittedly ian and jamie set good problems
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stockport is log. hence its name logport.
hardly sucking cock. more constructive criticism.
broughton is good for finger strength. it does not give you power.
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Jim
The weather got a bit more sevre than excected that night so I made the call to close early so the staff could get home safely.
Email me if you still want a discounted session.
Dave Douglas
Awesome Walls Climbing Centres Ltd
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Sorry Dave, I was specifically told "there is not enough people here for us to warrent staying open, its not our decision"
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A bit of constructive criticism for Stockport, or rather suggestions, given that competition is going to be hotting up in Manchester:
1: Get some more sets of holds for the bouldering area, from different manufacturers. The easy problems are mostly lines of jugs - this isn't necessarily the setter's fault if they don't have a choice of holds to set with.
2: The new woody needs resetting. The holds seem randomly placed and many of them just don't work well on that style of board. Get rid of the toilet seat. More wooden holds would work better, but they have to be well made. Nothing fancy, just flat edges and pinches.
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:off: (a bit)
I think the stockport wall is a wee bit dear if you just want to boulder - but 7.50 is pretty close to most other walls for chuffing etc... I'd like it if maybe they had a boulder only rate for a couple of quid less... see below...
For a possible glimpse of the future - Its interesting to see whats happened in Leeds since in the space of 1 year its gone from one wall (Leeds wall with OKish bouldering & lots of leading) to having two extra bouldering walls (Depot & Citybloc). Since then, the Leeds wall has really pulled its finger out and re-sets the bouldering wall more often (at the expense of the leader wall so my chuffing friends tell me) and has a boulder only price of £5... so Citybloc & the Depot are around £6.50-5 (depending on peak time etc.. and other things).
My tuppence worth - for my punter abilities the Stockport wall is fine (I tend to go about once a week) and the problems are generally pretty well set - and I dont run out of things I can/cant do before they are re-set (thuogh if I went more frequently that might change..). I agree with ru that the same brand/type of hold is a pain etc.. new area is good. Interstingly though, the best set problems in the walls I frequent are consistently at Citybloc - it may not be the biggest or best looking of venues but I like the bouldering... T
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£7.50 is too expensive. The bog seat is bobbins. I liked your board though. You need bad footholds (8-10mm hardwood small blocks - round the edges off) on the bottom half, and where possible make wooden holds out of hardwoods. Ban people standing on wooden holds.
Oh, and you need some means of cooling it down. Good effort for putting in the new bit though. And for responding to your critics.
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yes, I've never understood why walls don't have 2 prices, one for bouldering only and one for full use.
why good effort for responding to your critics? one was a lie, the other one basically said we dont care if you dont like it, there are plenty of mugs paying their £7.50
broughton is good for finger strength. it does not give you power.
of course, barans and cooke are piss weak
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is it gonna cost as much as stockport wall? £7.50 for the shittest bouldering wall and the shittest set probs i've ever had the displeasure to climb on. is manchester in london? no
Ever been to RockCity in Hull? Its £7.50 AND £10 year membership... and its not the largest of bouldering areas...
i think if you combine the cave and the moon wall it probably doesn't have a lot less than citybloc.
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is it gonna cost as much as stockport wall? £7.50 for the shittest bouldering wall and the shittest set probs i've ever had the displeasure to climb on. is manchester in london? no
Ever been to RockCity in Hull? Its £7.50 AND £10 year membership... and its not the largest of bouldering areas...
i think if you combine the cave and the moon wall it probably doesn't have a lot less than citybloc.
Sorry but :off: again...
If you go on wall square footage alone I think City bloc's quite a bit larger and its also taller.. At Rockcity there are no circuits (maybe 2 or 3 problems at each grade) & the shape of the moon wall (middle bulge) means alot of the problems there are sit start one move 'wonders'.. The cave looks great but I tire of it really quickly, because there are no bolt on's - OK, this requires me to use my imagination and construct eliminates etc.. but I run out of inspiration there.... I quite like it that someone has set a problem to solve... isnt that part of the point of setting problems rather than just leaving you with a random set of holds??
There are some great people there but the lack of problems (&inspiration) and £7.50 a pop means I'd rather burn £10 worth of diesel and head over to Leeds or Sheffield - and I'm not the only one who has voted with their feet... I've mentioned this to Mark but you can guess what he thought.....
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:off:
Jim, neither of them are. But broughton is essentially locking on crimps. (I think its good, and I think it transfers well to outdoors) however it doesn't give you that power that a fifty degree board gives you, because you can do lots of egyptians and its 30degrees.
tomtom. I disagree about setting. I have done everything now bar about 4 problems (hero) in a couple of sittings. as Ru said there are too many jug hauls especially on the steep bit. I'd like to see a few more in the red/blue categories on the steep bit. less 4b steep jug laddders (yes dob for me to tic tac up!)
The board. I agree wth Ru, and Dobbin. Strip it. and get some quality wooden holds (NOT the metolius wooden ones) It could be an awesome feature. (please)
It does seem to have cooled down in there too.
If you could install a dungeon for me and Jim too that would be great.
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tom
in regard to whos voted with their feet,given there is only about 10 or so regular boulders in hull.one or two disgruntled ones going off to leeds is hardly going to warrant the expense of building a new bouldering section.however there are plans to extend the cellar out to the back of the skate park.mark just needs to find the money to fix the roof first.
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I would certainly be more intrested in going if there was a dungeon
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yes, I've never understood why walls don't have 2 prices, one for bouldering only and one for full use.
The Edge (http://www.sheffieldclimbing.com/price_table.php) have a two-tier pricing system. Pretty sure The Foundry (http://www.foundryclimbing.com/foundryclimbing/prices.php) used to but alas no more (except an off-peak bouldering price).
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yes, I've never understood why walls don't have 2 prices, one for bouldering only and one for full use.
why good effort for responding to your critics? one was a lie, the other one basically said we dont care if you dont like it, there are plenty of mugs paying their £7.50
Jim
Having a separate price of bouldering only is something that we might be bringing in when the new Stoke bouldering wall opens.
There were several reasons for closing early but the main one was to let the staff leave early. As for 'we don't care' I was stating a fact that if we were so shit as a dence loner put it we wouldnt be so popular!
Thanks for the comments off the other guys, all noted and will be looked into.
Cheers
Dave Douglas
AWCC
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if the works was 45mins drive away as opposed to an hour and a bit i would drive there if it was £8.50. Its not its £6.50.
I do remember moving to manchester from shef and being really pissed off with the prices of the wall. especially as there was none that i would really want to join.
reset the board please with good wooden holds. it doesn't have to be symmetrical (would be better) please contact dan variable.
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With all the complaints about facilities in Manchester has no one ever thought about starting a co-op and all chipping in for a venue then building exactly what you want? 24x7 access with a key each.
I'd be prepared to pay for that and can donate stuff e.g. Beastmaker, holds, double mattress, dumbbells.
Just a thought - if it's been mentioned before then apologies.
Matt
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my contract ends in august. if i get a job elsewhere then...
if i don't then i'd be keen
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With all the complaints about facilities in Manchester has no one ever thought about starting a co-op and all chipping in for a venue then building exactly what you want? 24x7 access with a key each.
It sounds like a good idea and I would be more than willing to chip in cash and time doing somewhere up. I just think it will struggle in other areas like ongoing maintenance. Like who pays the rent/mortgage on a place? What about electricity and other bills, council tax, water etc etc - would anyone be willing to put them in their name and chase other people for the cash? Would you need building insurance? Liability insurance?
Sorry to be pessimistic, but if that idea were to take off you would need at least one person to be serious about taking on those responsibilities. Getting people together and chipping in cash to build it is the easy part.
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With all the complaints about facilities in Manchester has no one ever thought about starting a co-op and all chipping in for a venue then building exactly what you want? 24x7 access with a key each.
It sounds like a good idea and I would be more than willing to chip in cash and time doing somewhere up. I just think it will struggle in other areas like ongoing maintenance. Like who pays the rent/mortgage on a place? What about electricity and other bills, council tax, water etc etc - would anyone be willing to put them in their name and chase other people for the cash? Would you need building insurance? Liability insurance?
Sorry to be pessimistic, but if that idea were to take off you would need at least one person to be serious about taking on those responsibilities. Getting people together and chipping in cash to build it is the easy part.
People have set up Gym's in industrial storage units... you would get lighting from them for that... set up a board or 2 in on of those?
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There's a small church in Horwich just begging to be turned into a climbing/bouldering venue.
It's been renovated on the outside and stripped inside. I think the owner was going to turn it into flats but ran out of dosh!
Anyone got any ideas of the kind of costs involved in such a project?
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People have set up Gym's in industrial storage units... you would get lighting from them for that... set up a board or 2 in on of those?
That sounds like it could be a better proposition. Are there any in/near Manchester? I assume you can pay monthly/quarterly/annually for the rent for example? Do you need any kind of permission from the storage company or from the council to build stuff in there? I know I can't even put a big shed in my back garden without asking the council first..
I know nothing about this kind of thing to be honest, I was just brain dumping some thoughts about stuff that may be needed for a 'wall' or 'board' to open or run.. I guess for the idea to take off, it would need someone who is clued up about setting this sort of thing up? And that person definitely ain't me ;D
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People have set up Gym's in industrial storage units... you would get lighting from them for that... set up a board or 2 in on of those?
That sounds like it could be a better proposition. Are there any in/near Manchester? I assume you can pay monthly/quarterly/annually for the rent for example? Do you need any kind of permission from the storage company or from the council to build stuff in there? I know I can't even put a big shed in my back garden without asking the council first..
I know nothing about this kind of thing to be honest, I was just brain dumping some thoughts about stuff that may be needed for a 'wall' or 'board' to open or run.. I guess for the idea to take off, it would need someone who is clued up about setting this sort of thing up? And that person definitely ain't me ;D
I've not got a scooby either - but there was an article on the Grauniad a while back -
Here's the fella...
http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/2009/nov/29/self-storage-britain-tom-lamont (http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/2009/nov/29/self-storage-britain-tom-lamont)
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Without getting embroiled in any cost debate, props are due to Dave for installing a board, campus etc in Liverpool. Thanks for that. Thanks also for giving me a beastmaker platform on which to embarrass Richie Crouch.
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If people want to make their own facility then why not put some time into broughton.
It's only £4.50 and they are currently dismantling the free standing boulder and putting the boards next to each other on the wall.
Ste is looking at putting a roof in and with any luck an extension on to the woody.
Then all that needs doing is sorting the holds out and setting some problems and it'll be one of the best facilities in the north west and you can help decide what goes in / set problems or contribute in any other way. Get to it (http://broughtonpower.wetpaint.com/)
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is it gonna cost as much as stockport wall? £7.50 for the shittest bouldering wall and the shittest set probs i've ever had the displeasure to climb on. is manchester in london? no
Wow, don't hold back mate :o!
With such a big choice of walls in the area I'm surprised we still exist if things are that bad :-\!!!
Oh well, I'll try harder.
Dave Douglas
Awesome Walls Climbing Centres Ltd
why are you surprised you're still open? there's a lot of climbers in and around manchester and a lot of people willing to pay these prices, or did you already know that :-\
that doesn't mean that the problems weren't crap and £7.50 is way too expensive to boulder. it has already been said that the new probs are a lot better, and that people agree £7.50 is too dear. which of course you're going to look at after you see the impact the new wall has on entries.
i'm obviously speaking from a bouldering perspective, since i'm on a bouldering website. i know less than nothing about routes, and possibly not much more about bouldering
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while i'm going around upsetting people, thank god that boulders been dismantled at broughton. i think the last good problem on it was 10 years ago.
disclaimer: i have a lot of time for broughton
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broughton is good for finger strength. it does not give you power.
Is there not a route (in Pembroke? by Vickers?) called 'Broughton Power', I think it is fair to say that what ex-world cup winner, milky bar kid and general climbing super wad says is the law. Broughton gives you POWER.
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Maybe a small caveat needed there: Broughton gives you STATIC POWER.
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What Jim says.
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With all the complaints about facilities in Manchester has no one ever thought about starting a co-op and all chipping in for a venue then building exactly what you want? 24x7 access with a key each.
I'd be prepared to pay for that and can donate stuff e.g. Beastmaker, holds, double mattress, dumbbells.
That is not a bad idea. A friend of mine in Dorset has access to something similar. I would be very interested if it can be organised.
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On a similar but separate note regarding the woody at Stockport. It would appear to be the only commercial wall I know of which doesn't have a sign warning children off the board. Minor observation but I do see a lot of children from the parties try and pull on it. Possible law suit in waiting??
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as jim says broughton is the closest thing to a 'school room' manchester currently has.
despite mcc and awesome opening up, broughton still gets passing trade.
its got its pro's (cheap) and cons (can be freezing cold)
if you want something like the school room this is the closest and best option. established wall with 1000plus problem database its cleaned regularly and secure carpark at night. no liabilty concerns etc as its run by salford council.
only problem is will they ever knock it down? it'll a sad day if/when it happens.
yes the boulder is finally being moved out of the way, i havent set on it for ages cos i cant be arsed and felt at times it wasnt really appreciated. maybe when its finally up against the wall and proper matting, we can repaint it a prime colour at least. stick all the holds on and they can stay on so we can make up new problems that incorporate slopers as well as crimps.
we currently have a fender fingerboard, but hopefully getting my hands on a resin one off jamie cassidy and also may get one of them modern wooden cnc fingerboards they all keep going on abt
another potential project for the wall is take down the defunct systems board (council says we cant use it as its a danger to move up and down all the time) and replaced with a new combo of a roof (akin to demon wall) and 45º board that can be a static systems board.
fundraising schemes are being schemed
ste li
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Maybe a small caveat needed there: Broughton gives you STATIC POWER.
Is there any other type of power? We all know slapping is for weak puffs.
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Without getting embroiled in any cost debate, props are due to Dave for installing a board, campus etc in Liverpool. Thanks for that.
Definitely, I echo your thanks to Dave. The woody is giving me a reason to climb at Awesome walls Liverpool as I'm not digging the current routes (but that's a different discussion).
Perhaps the stepped overhang bouldering wall could be disposed of and some better bouldering put in at some point soon? Honestly Dave, that step is very outdated and unpleasant to climb on, plus the other bouldering surfaces aren't exactly inspiring. I'm guessing that putting in three different angled boards with nice aretes wouldn't be stupidly expensive either. Although I appreciate that you have your work cut out setting up the Stoke wall, just please don't forget Liverpool. But again, thanks for the new woody and campus board.
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The Crypt and woody are all you need for Parisella's training ;)
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The Crypt and woody are all you need for Parisella's training ;)
I don't doubt that Rich but I want to train for climbing too. ;)
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It sounds like a good idea and I would be more than willing to chip in cash and time doing somewhere up. I just think it will struggle in other areas like ongoing maintenance. Like who pays the rent/mortgage on a place? What about electricity and other bills, council tax, water etc etc - would anyone be willing to put them in their name and chase other people for the cash? Would you need building insurance? Liability insurance?
Sorry to be pessimistic, but if that idea were to take off you would need at least one person to be serious about taking on those responsibilities. Getting people together and chipping in cash to build it is the easy part.
Rent/Mortgage - Whoever's name is on the lease or mortgage would be liable for such costs (so it is likely you would need to chase people)
Business Rates - Payable by the party in occupation
Water. Electricity, building insurance etc - If it was on an industrial estate somewhere hopefully this would be covered by a service charge (payable by the lessee)
Public Liability - I'm less sure about, but I would expect that it would be lessee again.
Planning - Change of use would be required, if you do things by the book
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I liked the idea of using a storage unit (previously linked) and have asked the question about using it for a bouldering training facility. The link gave the example of a martial arts gym running out of a Safestore so have asked the question of the Safestore near to Old Trafford - not sure the ceiling height would be high enough but I will await the reply....
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I liked the idea of using a storage unit (previously linked) and have asked the question about using it for a bouldering training facility. The link gave the example of a martial arts gym running out of a Safestore so have asked the question of the Safestore near to Old Trafford - not sure the ceiling height would be high enough but I will await the reply....
Interesting - keep us posted.. T
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Quick update before I leave work...
Safestore came back to me and after I explained what a bouldering wall was they said it would be no problem - they have a couple of recording studios running out of the Trafford Park site.
Few Details:
smallest unit with a suitable ceiling height is 300 sq ft - Ceiling height 25ft, might be overkill
£128 per week! which is £512 a month between 15 of us that would be £34 a month.
Access is 24/7
The guy who called me was really keen and had no issue with us using the space for whatever we liked and loads of people having keys. Might be worth checking to see if we could get a better deal elsewhere which works out cheaper.
interesting........
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Put me on the interested list if its trafford park area
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Oh and do you have rates on top of that?
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The guy from Safestore didn't mention any other charges but he called me just as I was about to leave work - I'll confirm a few more details with him.
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If any of you are close enough to train in Macclesfield PM me, ive got a nice woody there.
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300sq feet is not very big
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it seems a bit daft to me. £34 a month is a lot of money assuming you get 15 people willing to pay it and then you've got to buy all the wood/fixings and holds etc...
I've got a woody in my garage I go through fazes of using which is good enough for me and if anyone live over east manchester and wants to get involved in some sessions then drop me a line. I could do with getting some psych back.
Like I said earlier broughton is changing and you can certainly have some input into what gets built/what holds go on/ setting some problems by way of contributing a little time or money into building/helping out or setting. you can get a monthly pass for £25 and there is a EXTREME weights gym next door that I believe you can use for just a little bit more ontop of the climbing fee. Also it not too far from trafford park
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Its an interesting idea, and i think it would run if there were no facilities in Manchester.... 300 sq ft's about the size of a double garage I think - and 25ft high would be just fine!
But, there are other places to climb in Manc... In winter it'd pay for itself (cost = 4.5 visits to stockport wall a month) but in summer - I'd never use it...
Still its a great idea for anyone living a long distance from a climbing wall to try...
Good effort on getting the quote Chicane...
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300sq feet is not very big
No - that's what I thought, approx 3m x 9m (10ft x 30ft) - maybe one side/board. And do you need it 8 metres high?
Personally I think it makes sense to wait until this new place opens in MCR centre - it could be feckin amazin :whistle:
If it does turn out to be shiter than shite, then like Jim says - it would be much easier to put time and effort and a bit of cash into Broughton. It's already a venue, but sounds like it just needs a bit of tlc and elbow grease to make it shit hot.
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(http://www.econ.ucsb.edu/~tedb/Journals/gavel.jpg)
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I'd be happy to contribute to something towards Broughton.
I was just keen to see what the costs were but like others have said having thought about it 300sq ft isn't very big.
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300sq feet is not very big
No - that's what I thought, approx 3m x 9m (10ft x 30ft) - maybe one side/board. And do you need it 8 metres high?
Personally I think it makes sense to wait until this new place opens in MCR centre - it could be feckin amazin :whistle:
If it does turn out to be shiter than shite, then like Jim says - it would be much easier to put time and effort and a bit of cash into Broughton. It's already a venue, but sounds like it just needs a bit of tlc and elbow grease to make it shit hot.
Thanks for the maths lesson. That's a small size for people to pay £34 per month plus the rates plus the board. My workshop was around 1000 sq feet and about £350 p/m. That would be a minimum size I would have thought. How many people can you get in a 300 sq feet space? Not many
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as jim says broughton is the closest thing to a 'school room' manchester currently has.
despite mcc and awesome opening up, broughton still gets passing trade.
its got its pro's (cheap) and cons (can be freezing cold)
if you want something like the school room this is the closest and best option. established wall with 1000plus problem database its cleaned regularly and secure carpark at night. no liabilty concerns etc as its run by salford council.
only problem is will they ever knock it down? it'll a sad day if/when it happens.
yes the boulder is finally being moved out of the way, i havent set on it for ages cos i cant be arsed and felt at times it wasnt really appreciated. maybe when its finally up against the wall and proper matting, we can repaint it a prime colour at least. stick all the holds on and they can stay on so we can make up new problems that incorporate slopers as well as crimps.
we currently have a fender fingerboard, but hopefully getting my hands on a resin one off jamie cassidy and also may get one of them modern wooden cnc fingerboards they all keep going on abt
another potential project for the wall is take down the defunct systems board (council says we cant use it as its a danger to move up and down all the time) and replaced with a new combo of a roof (akin to demon wall) and 45º board that can be a static systems board.
fundraising schemes are being schemed
ste li
Im assuming that 'cons' is an abbreviation of conditions.
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Has anyone had any news on location yet?
Searches on Counci's website dont show any new applications for a Change of Use. Seems more than likely this is something they will need to do sooner or later.
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Has anyone had any news on location yet?
Searches on Counci's website dont show any new applications for a Change of Use. Seems more than likely this is something they will need to do sooner or later.
Not looking in the right council imo. It will be in salford if its across the irwell. Ive heard it will be very near strangeways.
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Searches on Counci's website dont show any new applications for a Change of Use. Seems more than likely this is something they will need to do sooner or later.
The Academy in Bristol didn't need change of use so why would this Manc proposal, maybe it's an old cinema or something.
BTW I don't have any inside info apart from its an amazing building.
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Searches on Counci's website dont show any new applications for a Change of Use. Seems more than likely this is something they will need to do sooner or later.
The Academy in Bristol didn't need change of use so why would this Manc proposal, maybe it's an old cinema or something.
BTW I don't have any inside info apart from its an amazing building.
You will need a change of use if the buildings previous use was something other than D2 (Assembly & Leisure). I do not know what the Academy was previously but if it wasn't something falling under this use (i.e. cinema, concert hall, sports hall, gym etc..) then they are likely to be operating contrary to planning. In this case their choice would be to apply for retrospective planning or wait it out until they can apply for a certificate of lawfulness (not recommended).
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Just in case you missed it. The Academy did not need change of use.
I did not say that The Academy did not get change of use.
The conclusion being that the Academy already had D2.
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That is fair enough. I was simply making the point that it is not that uncommon that buildings are used contrary to planning.
In respect of this new wall I am not aware of any D2 properties that have been available in the market in the location we have been eluded to.
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There is an article in Crains this week about the new wall. It is on Julia Street, close to Strangeways.
The only thing that has been on the market recently on Julia Street is number 45. It would appear to fit the bill in terms of size, if they took two floors.
Tom states that the centre is subject to planning, but searches indicate that no applications have been submitted (either that or the Council have chosen not to put it on the website).
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There is an article in Crains this week about the new wall. It is on Julia Street, close to Strangeways.
The only thing that has been on the market recently on Julia Street is number 45. It would appear to fit the bill in terms of size, if they took two floors.
Tom states that the centre is subject to planning, but searches indicate that no applications have been submitted (either that or the Council have chosen not to put it on the website).
maybe there's a basement
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The only thing that has been on the market recently on Julia Street is number 45. It would appear to fit the bill in terms of size, if they took two floors.
This Building? (http://maps.google.co.uk/maps?oe=utf-8&client=firefox-a&ie=UTF8&q=45+Julia+Street+manchester&fb=1&gl=uk&hnear=&cid=0,0,8963605064677444998&ei=0CdoS7z-HNS7jAfCtLi9CQ&ved=0CAoQnwIwAA&hq=45+Julia+Street+manchester&ll=53.491173,-2.245331&spn=0,359.990355&z=17&layer=c&cbll=53.491105,-2.245612&panoid=zd2azAtUk5dNza-vZMG93A&cbp=12,16.82,,0,-16.12)
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Is that Stangeways just across the road? How lovely!
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maybe there's a basement
The marketing particulars say there is a basement and the article states that they intend to construct an underground caving network at Phase 2. So it seems like a possibility.
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There is an article in Crains this week about the new wall. It is on Julia Street, close to Strangeways.
Where about can I find this article? Is it online? Never heard of Crains
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Just found it!
http://www.crainsmanchesterbusiness.co.uk/article/20100201/SUB/302019996 (http://www.crainsmanchesterbusiness.co.uk/article/20100201/SUB/302019996)
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Tom states that the centre is subject to planning, but searches indicate that no applications have been submitted (either that or the Council have chosen not to put it on the website).
As far as I am aware, planning applications have to be made accessible to the public...therefore if one exists it should be on the local authority website. Sorry if this has been mentioned already, I didn't read the whole thread...
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Manchester City Council's Public Access page states that 'For reasons of confidentiality, Manchester City Council may choose not to display certain Planning Applications'
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just seen a building as we were using a atm close by.
3 storey 10k sqft
could be another spot if its not the other one suggested
google maps park place manchester and drag that man in and you should have it
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any updates?
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Opening in May according to my source...apparently it's a big space and there will be a lot to go at.
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I understand that Tom is speaking to a lot of people about what they would like to see so I hope it turns out well.
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I noticed that website for this is up and running (though a little sparse). It has location and some details...
http://www.rockoverclimbing.co.uk/ (http://www.rockoverclimbing.co.uk/)
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Fuck yeah a whole 5 minute walk from my new office. :bounce: :bounce: :bounce: :bounce: :bounce: Combined with the gym at work I'm going to be a beast, albeit a middle aged beast.
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Fuck yeah a whole 5 minute walk from my new office. :bounce: :bounce: :bounce: :bounce: :bounce: Combined with the gym at work I'm going to be injured, albeit fat, middle aged and injured.
Fixed that for you.
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Lets hope the website isn't a taste of things to come.
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Lets hope the website isn't a taste of things to come.
Yup - its a roadcrash....
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Lets hope the website isn't a taste of things to come.
Yup - its a roadcrash....
That's what I thought ;D
The all new Rock Over Climbing Website launches today. The boys at Hammer Design, keen climbers themselves are promising all sorts of features to come still trying to figure out how to use backgrounds in Frontpage...
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Website says it's opening in a few weeks on Sat 5th June with the Summer Rock Fest, £2k cash prize...
Peak adult entry is £6.70 (http://www.rockoverclimbing.co.uk/entry-prices-other-info/)
Some pictures of it being built (http://www.rockoverclimbing.co.uk/gallery/)
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Anyone else been in for a look? Do you think having a 50* board equipped by Beastmaker is a good idea? Is putting it next to a 45* board just a tad greedy?
Personally I've been favourably struck by both the space itself and the walls... like The Works, only more extensive I think.
Thankfully looks like they're a lot better at building walls than websites.
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why would having a 50 degree board built by beastmaker not be a good idea? I don't really see your comparison with 45 board? thats like saying do u think a slighty off vertical wall nx to a vertical wall is a good idea
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I bet that corridor (http://www.rockoverclimbing.co.uk/gallery/ (http://www.rockoverclimbing.co.uk/gallery/) painted orange) is going to be 'fun' on a busy night.
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Anyone else been in for a look? Do you think having a 50* board equipped by Beastmaker is a good idea? Is putting it next to a 45* board just a tad greedy?
Personally I've been favourably struck by both the space itself and the walls... like The Works, only more extensive I think.
Thankfully looks like they're a lot better at building walls than websites.
My understanding is that the 45 is to be part of the bouldering/circuit boards and the beastmaker is (obviously) going to be a training board, it is so steep ;D
Also the pictures do not do the place justice those two islands in the middle are massive.
Seeing as nobody else has mentioned it. They are offering a few annual passes at £160
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Image 19 looks fantastic, nice variety of roof angles and curves, could be excellent with a couple volumes thrown on too. Quite looking forward to paying a visit when the chance should arise!
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:shrug: What is it with wall builders building all these mental roofs :thumbsup:
Looks good, i wonder what access from the north will be like though in an evening?
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(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-sjc1/hs600.snc3/31622_394809152085_255125752085_3860787_5520649_n.jpg)
(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs600.snc3/31622_394809167085_255125752085_3860790_1725036_n.jpg)
(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs580.snc3/31622_394809192085_255125752085_3860794_3213506_n.jpg)
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why would having a 50 degree board built by beastmaker not be a good idea? I don't really see your comparison with 45 board? thats like saying do u think a slighty off vertical wall nx to a vertical wall is a good idea
My point exactly, perhaps that was a little too understated (they are adjacent). I think it's a bloody marvellous idea, as is the plethora of steep walls/roofs etc. That's why I've gone for their pass offer. Compared to the £75 my missus coughs up monthly for the David Lloyd, £13.30 a month seems quite good.
Shame I'm injured :(
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(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-sjc1/hs580.snc3/31622_394809217085_255125752085_3860796_7355687_n.jpg)
I am stood under the 50 degree board at the back. It is a lot steeper when you are underneath it.
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WOW their walls fuck with the laws of physics
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Glad to hear you like the photos, we still have some annual passes left for the bargain price of £160, visit the website or facebook page for more details. Also online registration for the opening comp is now open, this is necessary for all competitors and there are limited spaces!
All feedback, comments etc are welcome.
Cheers!
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Well I just got an annual pass and they gave me a quick tour round.. Looks good, several steep boards/roofs (as you will have seen), high walls (er, also in the photos) and a small kids area near the cafe with free admission for kids under 6!
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Dan testing the new Beastmaker board
(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs347.ash1/29522_398216587085_255125752085_3943659_2706641_n.jpg)
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Looks brilliant....for the five people in Manchester who'll be able to make good use of it! ;D
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I'll be going for the any-holds-to-the-top tick.
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these boards are fantastic. saying that i am mates with the guys that build them, so take that statement with a pinch of salt if u want. however they are fantastic! you do get stronger by using them anyway anyhow. if only 5 people in manc will be able to get to the top so what? people can leave their ego's on the mat n fall off it a lot trying to get to the top. for all the zen fools out there surely its about the journey.
a few friends are disappointed with the depot putting extra holds all over the place so people can use their beastmaker board, the thing is people aren't using the beastmaker board. they said they'd rather it be too elitist than not so they can work towards doing 2 moves in a row on it, and they actually enjoy watching people who do climb on it.
i know walls cater to everybody but there's no point building an elite board then changing it, seems strange.
board in manc looks good, let people dream... ::)
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you have mates? Is the wall built by kettle bells inc., acme flatscreen tellies and bt broadband? You gonna be over here to try it out? Give us a shout if you do. (uncle piggy)
Anyway, steep elitist boards are fine. Why train on brutally steep surfaces on massive holds when there are bugger all places to apply such tecniques in the uk (maybe rubicon, the route). Climb on less steep stuff to build technique, then steely fingers, then transfer it to the steep stuff. Will help avoid being one of those massively bumpy people who are shit.
In short, what dense said. :agree:
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Dan says hi Lee
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didn't think of that clm but will give u shout when over. can we arrange it for 5 tho so u actually turn up on time at 7 :kiss2:
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Dan testing the new Beastmaker board
Looks like they forgot to use holds, just small offcuts from a wooden toy factory.
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Dan testing the new Beastmaker board
(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs347.ash1/29522_398216587085_255125752085_3943659_2706641_n.jpg)
Looks good, although I'm not sure about the logic of painting/leaving the boards white :shrug:
It does make spotting the day-glo orange holds on the right a bit easier though...
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We left the boards white because we think it look pretty cool and makes the holds easier to see, keeping it simple folks :)
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We left the boards white because we think it look pretty cool and makes the holds easier to see, keeping it simple folks :)
And it shows up dirty black boot rubber better easier too :-\
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Looks good, although I'm not sure about the logic of painting/leaving the boards white :shrug:
I asked pretty much the same question when I saw it.
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oh my fucking god u people :wall:
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All boards end up rubber coloured and I'd rather white than a spray painted multi-coloured logo. I find that hard enough and I don't have any eyesight colour issues.
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TBH I doubt there'll be much black rubber above the kick board in any case so there's need to get so aesthetically exercised about it.
PS They told me next year's colours are magnolia with a magenta trim. Happy now?
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oh my fucking god u people :wall:
what lee said. plain and simple. (I'd have preferred plain wood)
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Who is down at the opening comp tomorrow?
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What is this place like to get to from the north... M60? If for example an weekday evening about 7? Is it chocker?
White boards... nice...
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Would have thought that it would be reasonable okay about 7. Fortunately I work about 20 minutes walk away so I've been waiting for this opening for a long time! Won't be down at the weekend but will be testing it out one evening next week.
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I wish they would change the wall name.
"Where are you climbing tonight? Broughton, MCC, Awesome, boulderuk.... rockover?"
Cheers
Tim
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I wish they would change the wall name.
"Where are you climbing tonight? Broughton, MCC, Awesome, boulderuk.... rockover?"
Cheers
Tim
Could be worse.... could have been legover...
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I'm hoping they will actually have tons of rockover problems... well at least 1.. :lol:
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what, and Awesome is a good name?
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Who is down at the opening comp tomorrow?
I was going to, but with a slightly quirky finger I think it best not to. Have fun if you are going down
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what, and Awesome is a good name?
well relative to rockover....yes its infinately better. :)
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Massive thanks to everyone who came along yesterday, I think everyone had a great time and it was a brilliant way to open our new centre!
Results will be posted on facebook and our website in a few minutes.
Hope to see you all down here climbing soon :)
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Went here for the first time last night for a short session. I wasn't really on top form but I thought it was good. I like the Beastmaker board. It climbs like the School board rather than the Works board - I think it may be steeper than the works board. It could do with a few more footholds - 3 footholds on the kickboard is a bit restrictive.The holds seem well carved and aren't restrictively small. I was going to train on it every day I think I'd want some smaller holds on it, but I'm not, so I think it's about right.
The campus board looks as though when it was put in it was forgotten that the mats were going to raise the floor hight by a foot or so. Hence it's now very low and pretty much useless. It would be better being bigger and wider. I predict it will get very little use in its current form.
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The campus board looks as though when it was put in it was forgotten that the mats were going to raise the floor hight by a foot or so. Hence it's now very low and pretty much useless. It would be better being bigger and wider. I predict it will get very little use in its current form.
They've told me when saying the same as you that they are going to reposition the campus board imminently. But this was soon after opening and as yet there appears to be no signs of it being moved soon. Shame really cause a really good campus setup is essential to make the bouldering wall a rounded training venue.
Cheers
Tim
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Hi Tim, Rupert et al.
Im glad you like the place so far, the Beastmaker will be getting more foot holds soon, also with regards the campus board we are currently in the process of designing an entirely new training area upstairs, we hope to have this completed in time for the winter training season. In the mean time please keep throwing feedback at us and bear with us as we are still trying to catch up with ourselves after opening!
Cheers
Simon
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I went the other week and forgot to post some thoughts.......
On the whole I think this is a great wall for Manchester. The natural light is great (even if people complain about the heat. It also looks like you have loads of space to expand when you see fit.
As Ru said the Beastmaker board could do with having some more variation in footholds. I also like Entreprise holds, but some variation would be good (i know you are sponsored and I also realise they will be less rapey in a bit). The cave at the back needs some lighting as it looks a bit grotty without. Setting is a little all over the place grade wise but as with any new centre I'm sure this will sort itself out. The music that was played was awful. I know this is personal taste but hell this was terrible rock music. If I notice the music at a wall then it's bad.
Overall I would be well psyched to climb there if I lived in Manchester. As it is I live in Sheffield and have the Works and the Foundry :thumbsup:
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hi Si, has the comp wall been reset recently?
cheers
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vickers reset it on wednesday
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vickers reset it on wednesday
cool, nice1 Jim.
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Cave lighting is also on the to do list, as for the terrible cheesy rock music, i may have had something to do with that!
Cheers
Si
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i'll have my twopence worth, good to see someone's listening si.
positives
nice atmosphere, good lighting (sure its hot but where isn't in the summer), like the higher walls, pretty good wall really. I'd go there if I lived in manchester and I do so i will be.
negatives
campus board needs sorting, too low and no footholds. moving up stairs seems like a good move, it's not in a great place where it is.
beastmaker finger boards are way off vertical, use a spirit level and sort them out.
the traverse block upstairs is rubbish, like really rubbish, the corners on it mean that you can't actual do anyclimbing it felt a bit like traversing round my kitchen. a straight wall that you can do traversing on would be much better. I would appreciate some power endurance training, something like the wall on the right at the works as you come in the door.
the new comp problems are good but all very similar in style, i.e. crimpy. could do with a steeper section on comp wall so problems can be hard with bigger holds.
basically, and this isn't a very useful comment, i think the works is the best bouldering wall around, so the more like the works you make this wall the better it will be :)
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Traverse block is coming down and traverse wall is going up, also power endurance will be catered for with the new circuit board we will be putting upstairs and as i mentioned before the campus board will be moving soon too,
hope this helps!
Simon
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i agree
too few footholds on beast maker board
other changes sound good
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Traverse block is coming down and traverse wall is going up, also power endurance will be catered for with the new circuit board we will be putting upstairs and as i mentioned before the campus board will be moving soon too,
hope this helps!
Simon
Sounds ace, look forward to the changes. good to see you taking the comments on here on board!
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Jamie set 30 new problems this morning, the green v7/8 circuit and the yellow world cup circuit, they look desperate! Also I set a big old traverse/route all around the islands which goes at around f6c(ish)?
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Looks like an excellent venue. Good to see owners who seem keen to satisfy every whim of their patrons. I wish that the new owners of my gym were as consumer friendly. After requesting heavier dum bells I was classed as a body builder and therefore undesirable.
Also, I may be old, but I prefered walls where you made your own problems.
Yeah, I know, just fucking old!
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Also, I may be old, but I prefered walls where you made your own problems.
Well nobody is going to stop you from setting your own problems, so go for it. I don't really see how having lots of marked problems stops you doing this.
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I took my first trip there today and was impressed.
Good spread of nice problems through the grades. plenty of traversing, nice roof in the middle and steep caves and steep training wall in the dark bit! I dint touch the Beastmaker but it looked like just the ticket for week day beasting sessions.
The comp wall was very good, nice variety.
It was very hot and sweaty in there today and there could be more sofas or bean bags down stairs to chill/change on, also there was no music on today.
I hope it gest the attention it deserves :thumbsup:
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did you ask them to put some music on?
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also there was no music on today.
If you ask they are generally pretty accommodating.
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It didnt really bother me to be honest, we hardly noticed. Just an observation that seemed strange at the time.
They really do seem like their going their best to get things just right there.
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i'm glad you had a good session, its odd there was no music, i shall have to sack all the staff that worked on the weekend at once!
On a serious note, if there is no music or if the music is terrible (usually my ipod) then just mention it at reception and we will change it, either that or you are welcome to bring in your own playlists and we can play those :)
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any plans to put a few more footholds on the beastmaker board?
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The board seems to have been
vandalised updated with new resin footholds. I think people were insinuating a higher frequency rather than larger size... I could have sat and had a cuppa on some of them.
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After a quick visit yesterday I'm happy to say that it's a great facility. Grades are a bit all over the place, but the quality of the problems is great :thumbsup:
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The board seems to have been vandalised updated with new resin footholds. I think people were insinuating a higher frequency rather than larger size... I could have sat and had a cuppa on some of them.
fear not ive been told by staff that the resins are to be replaced by some more beastmaker foot holds but they are on order with the beastmaker chaps and awaiting arrival.
Cheers
Tim
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You appear to be a bit of a convert (convict?) Tim, time for another name change?
Tim Rockovershaw?
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You appear to be a bit of a convert (convict?) Tim, time for another name change?
Tim Rockovershaw?
No mate, just a temporary measure until broughton gets its act together and mounts the freestanding boulder boards onto the wall. ( which they have been promising for around 12 Months now). Im currently alternating sessions at the walls. Also Sector hero temperatures arent quite here yet. But they are coming......
Also i have renamed rockoverclimbing to prisonbloc as it sounds much much better (IMO). Any other nomenclatures based around the strangeways theme are welcomed :)
Cheers
Tim
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Prisonbloc eh? I like it! Im not sure who told you that the resin footholds are a temporary measure, I fear that they may be misinformed, the resin footholds are here to stay! We are however still waiting for more Beastmaker footholds to add to the board (have been waiting for quite some time now!)
For those of you who are dead set against the resin footholds..... dont use them! The board has seen considerably more use since we put them up and pretty much all the feedback we have got about them is positive :thumbsup:
We are currently addressing the slightly erratic grading, this should be sorted soon.
As always all feedback is most welcome and we shall do our very best to please everyone, hope to see you all down at the comp this Saturday 9th, its shaping up to be a great day!
Cheers
Simon
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As always all feedback is most welcome and we shall do our very best to please everyone, hope to see you all down at the comp this Saturday 9th, its shaping up to be a great day!
Cheers
Simon
Feel free to post it in the competitions section: http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/board,11.0.html (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/board,11.0.html)
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For those of you who are dead set against the resin footholds..... dont use them! The board has seen considerably more use since we put them up and pretty much all the feedback we have got about them is positive :thumbs
I bet it's not as positive as those footholds
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Maybe it's because I'm weak but I'm much in favour of the new resin holds on the beastboard. I was struggling to do many moves without my feet coming off before (if i wanted to campus I'd use a campus board), feel I can make better us of the board now . I think the problem with the board is the beastmaker foot holds don't go well with the steepness of the board (i've been quite happy with them at the works) - so some larger foothold are necessary.
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Now Andy, not everyone has guns as big as yours!! ;D
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First time tonight. Great wall, and will add it to my climbing wall circuit. No real bad things i can think off. Guess the heat in summer, but was fine tonight. :great:
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I had my first visits this week and found it a bit disappointing - the facility overall seems good and the staff seem friendly enough, but although there weren't many people in it soon started to get too warm and there was condensation dripping off the glass roof on to the matting. What really let it down though was the route setting, there were some very good problems but there were far too many overly reachy problems and the majority of the easier problems were unimaginative.
I'm going to give it a few more visits to see if I've just caught it on a bad set.
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Short person in problems too reachy shock :P
To be more fair I do think the latest set of problems possibly aren't the best. The white circuit has some good problems (maybe a bit easy for you) but on first aquaintence the new reds don't seem the best and and I don't think the comp wall problems are as good as the previous set. On the plus side they reset the problems regularly so maybe you'll like the next set better.
On the conditions front I think last night was strange weather a November night with 16 degree temperatures and heavy rain! Conditions have been fine over the last few weeks.
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I was there last night and it was a bit warm but it didn't bother me.
The main problems I would highlight are is the horendous level of traffic in the evenings (not much can be done about that) and the price (think I paid £7.50).
Other than that I've enjoyed my visits to Rockover. I'm loving the campus board there with a set of rungs on it so deep even I can get to the top! :lol:
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I did some of the reds the other day - I thought that the ones I did were pretty good. I also haven't found the problems too reachy, but I haven't tried any of the harder, less steep problems on smaller holds.
Generally I think that the suggestions are being listened to and it's shaping up into a good wall.
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Hmm, im not sure about it being so hot the condensation was dripping off the roof (im currently sat behind reception wrapped in RAB downy goodness!), chances are as it was belting it down with rain we may have had a small leak, unfortunately this is the curse of having a beautiful old glass roof, loads of natural light but we are forever repairing it! As for the setting we always embrace everyones feedback, it is much easier to get it in person though so if something is bugging you then please feel free to let us know/vent your anger! ;D
Cheers
Simon
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It may have been a leaky roof (there was more than one), but it doesn't have to be hot for condensation to form on cold glass and start dripping.
The reds I did on the comp wall were good (with the exception of one in the middle), my issue is that in two visits I found myself repeating the same few problems (~8) because there was little else of interest.
As for IanP's 'short boy in reach shocker' I seem to remember the one problem he recommended he couldn't make the reach on - the king of Lank cut down to size...
From other users comments it seems I've not caught the wall at it's best, so when is the next set?
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Maybe get a variety of setters for the V6 and above problems. Or get the setters to be more imaginative. I thought Gaz's set was good this time. But yes, more problems on the comp wall please. More stuff around the V8 and above mark too. :)
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The next few things to be set are the Green (V7-8) and Yellow (World Cup) circuits which Harry Pennells is setting this Wednesday, James Garden is in on Monday 15th to reset the comp wall and I am setting the White (V4-5) on Wednesday 17th, hopefully this should keep you all busy for a little while at least! :thumbsup:
Cheers
Simon
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It may have been a leaky roof (there was more than one), but it doesn't have to be hot for condensation to form on cold glass and start dripping.
The reds I did on the comp wall were good (with the exception of one in the middle), my issue is that in two visits I found myself repeating the same few problems (~8) because there was little else of interest.
As for IanP's 'short boy in reach shocker' I seem to remember the one problem he recommended he couldn't make the reach on - the king of Lank cut down to size...
From other users comments it seems I've not caught the wall at it's best, so when is the next set?
I've never been particularly insipred when I've been down there before (twice..) :shrug: I like the compwall area - but the darker bits around the sides just seemed to have nothing great there... Its all about the problems and how they are set and I'm certainly not writing the place off... like Serpico said maybe I've just not caught it at its best...
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Yellow (World Cup) circuits which Harry Pennells is setting this Wednesday,
Wowzers! A world cup circuit based on kudos eliminates? This will be worth travelling for!
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Yellow (World Cup) circuits which Harry Pennells is setting this Wednesday,
Wowzers! A world cup circuit based on kudos eliminates? This will be worth travelling for!
:lol:
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I went over there last week and in spite of the horrendous traffic on the way eventually found the place. On first impressions, the problems there are seem ok, although the competition wall seems a little blank for the space it takes up.
I found the whites good, although there could have been more of them.
Yes, it was hot, but not too bad.
As another wall in the area it's great for variety, but wouldn't make me switch entirely from Broughton to be honest.
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Glad you like the whites, but as for more of them?? Where would they go? every bit of wall has a white problem and any more of them would just be far too confusing as they would be far too close to eachother!
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Oh yeah, Rupert, I added those footholds to the beastmaker this afternoon.
simon
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Hi Si if you're having problems set tomorrow will this affect access during the day ?(ie will it be open at 12 as usual?) I looked on the website but could not see anything.
Thanks
Jon
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Hi Si if you're having problems set tomorrow will this affect access during the day ?(ie will it be open at 12 as usual?) I looked on the website but could not see anything.
Thanks
Jon
I don't think this will be a problem, never has been before.
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We will be open as usual, we start setting at the horrendously early time of 08:00 and usually aim to have almost finished by opening time at 12:00, however often the faint sound of drilling can be heard till 2ish but this does not affect 99% of the centre, see you tomorrow
Simon
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Cool thanks.
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Had a very good session last night - much better set this time.
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it was nice to see a few of the broughton massive down last night.
felt kind of motivated, tho the new set on the comp wall was a tad hard for an aging punter like me.
got home and did feel i had a good workout
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Scerpico - really glad you had a decent session this time, it was good to see the broughton massive out in force last night!
I set a new white circuit (V4-5) today so there is 28 new problems to go at!
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I paid a visit for the first time on Sunday and thought it was an excellent wall with some great problems and angles. I particularly liked the red circuit; some really thoughtful problems there.
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Awesome in Stockport is pretty good
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Awesome in Stockport is pretty good
really?
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Awesome in Stockport is pretty good
Is it Awesome tho?
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I've heard its especially Awesome now that they've put sandpaper on the majority of the bouldering surface.
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I've heard its especially Awesome now that they've put sandpaper on the majority of the bouldering surface.
I am not sure why they have done that. It seems a little pointless and also shreads the tips of your fingers when you snatch at small holds.
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I quite like the Logport wall... its just about the right size/setting frequency for my week/every other week visit - has 1/2 price lunchtime bouldering deal and for me is 15 min down the road. Problems are normally well set and I like them (Vickers work?). For me Rockover is a pain in the arse to get to - I just cant be arsed with getting through Manchester during day or evening.... but thats just where I am I guess
:shrug:
Personally I'd rather be outside whatever, and the wall is just a gym...
AFAIK the 'sand paper' (textured paint it looked like to me) was only on the newer Ohanging section - but that was last week...
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I think if you get yourself on the inner ring/relief road (M57?) from whatever direction and then along Deansgate it is pretty accessible. It's definately easier to get to if your using public transport. Either way its horses for courses but I just think Rockover is superior value for money. Oh and I have enough skin issues as it is
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A57(M). Go down Deansgate - can be slow but better than some other routes. If returning and Deansgate very busy you can go parallel along it on more minor roads on the Salford side.
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First time in on Sun. Good wall i like it. Couple of my comments,
Good problems
Loads of space/light, good temp
Good tunes
Friendly staff
Severe lack of problems around V6/V7 (a grade a lot climb at) and i thought you could double the routes on the comp wall.
...and i dont like to gripe behind peoples back but a quid for a brew! a quid, and hand made as well! You can get 40 t bags for a quid where i come from, drop of milk and some hot wata, must be a couple 1000% mark up there. This left a bit of a bitter after taste to be honest, thats a rip boys.
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...and i dont like to gripe behind peoples back but a quid for a brew! a quid, and hand made as well! You can get 40 t bags for a quid where i come from, drop of milk and some hot wata, must be a couple 1000% mark up there. This left a bit of a bitter after taste to be honest, thats a rip boys.
Get a flask? :shrug:
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This left a bit of a bitter after taste
That's water in Manchester for you ;)
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...and i dont like to gripe behind peoples back but a quid for a brew! a quid, and hand made as well! You can get 40 t bags for a quid where i come from, drop of milk and some hot wata, must be a couple 1000% mark up there. This left a bit of a bitter after taste to be honest, thats a rip boys.
Get a flask? :shrug:
Tea in a flask :shrug: .. sadist.
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I don't drink tea or coffee so have no point of reference, but if you're not happy with the price its one possible solution.
You don't actually have to put the tea in the flask, you could get that £1 box of 40 tea bags and have hot water in your flask, and put the two together yourself. Pinch a few sugar satchets from somewhere and take one of these if you have yours white...
(http://www.babysmileandgrow.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/05/greenbottle.jpg)
(Might cost the centre a fair bit to keep an urn boiling to provide tea/boil a kettle every time someone wants a mug, then there is paying someone to serve it up to you :shrug:)
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This left a bit of a bitter after taste
That's water in Manchester for you ;)
Is Manchester water not our recycled piss? Double bitter filtered.
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This left a bit of a bitter after taste
That's water in Manchester for you ;)
Is Manchester water not our recycled piss? Double bitter filtered.
Yeah but keep in quiet!
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(Might cost the centre a fair bit to keep an urn boiling to provide tea/boil a kettle every time someone wants a mug, then there is paying someone to serve it up to you :shrug:)
Is that not what the £7.90 entrance for? To pay wages etc. If they were selling chocolate bars at £1.50 to cover staff costs and storage facilities it would prompt questions... so why brews?
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I'd imagine there are also over-heads such as ground rent/council tax for business/electricity to light the place/heating the place/etc.....
I don't eat chocolate either so couldn't comment, but I accept if I want a can of fizzy drink or a flapjack I'm going to pay more from a climbing wall (last time I bought a Flapjack at The Foundry it was something like £1.20) or pub than if I bought in bulk from the supermarket/made it at home.
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Probes, don't ever go to Starbucks - you'll explode.
If you're going to go T'big city you'll have to get used to their fancy ways and expensive prices.
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Ha ha. I guess you can take the boy out of chorley...
Ill reel my neck in.
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This left a bit of a bitter after taste
That's water in Manchester for you ;)
wind your neck in, best water in the country, by a mile.
A quid for a brew isn't too bad tbh. Its 20p at out work. Have you ever paid for a cup of tea anywhere else before?
It would seem like you haven't
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Cheers for the feedback, you are right we do have a lack of V6/7 at the moment and we will be adding more routes at these grades asap. As for a quid for a brew? I think its pretty fair, in fact you are the first person who has even mentioned it!
Cheers
Simon
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wind your neck in, best water in the country, by a mile.
A quid for a brew isn't too bad tbh. Its 20p at out work. Have you ever paid for a cup of tea anywhere else before?
It would seem like you haven't
21p surely Jim?
If you don't want to pay a quid for a brew then don't, they don't hold a shotgun to your head do they? Someone trying to make money off the business they've started? Twats.
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I didn't mind paying a quid for a brew this morning. Mind you, I had just been given a hunderd weight of freebie caramel shortcake!
Cheers, it was delicious!
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Someone trying to make money off the business they've started? Twats.
:lol:
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Yep ive bought a few brews in my time, thats exactly the problem, i can easily go through 4 in one wall session, thats why the nice boys at boulder throw a few freebies in for me.
Ok here's a comparsion for y'all
BoulderUK was 50p now 60p
Awcw was 70p now 80p
Westview 120p (posh machine thing)
Rockover 100p
Manchester Climbing Centre... ?
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Yep ive bought a few brews in my time, thats exactly the problem, i can easily go through 4 in one wall session, thats why the nice boys at boulder throw a few freebies in for me.
Ok here's a comparsion for y'all
BoulderUK was 50p now 60p
Awcw was 70p now 80p
Westview 120p (posh machine thing)
Rockover 100p
Manchester Climbing Centre... ?
Which gives a mean price of £0.90 (Standard deviation £0.25) and a median price £0.90 (based on current prices).
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I rest my case. ;)
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Get a car kettle! Brew up along the way!
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I was there for the first time a couple of days ago whilst visiting family in Manchester (was planning to go to Broughton for old times' sake, but Rockover turns out to be much easier to get to by public transport).
Friendly staff
+1
Very friendly, helpful and welcoming.
Loads of space/light, good temp
I founds this to be not the case, and it would actually be my major gripe. The corridor behind the comp wall seemed to have some interestingly-set slabby problems, but on some of them it was hard to tell in the near pitch darkness. Dingy white hold, or pale yellow?
In general I found the setting fun but the grading at my level massively soft. I was doing purples, some whites, and some comp and brown circuit problems that were marked around V3/V4, and flashed quite a few of them. I don't speak fluent V, but according to Rockfax V3/4 should equate to around 6B/+, and I know for damn sure that I don't routinely flash 6B/+ anywhere else that I climb regularly, indoors or out.
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I live in Sheffield but work in Manchester, so it makes a nice change going to a bouldering wall other than the Works in the week. Rockover makes a good contrast - in general the problems are not as well set as the Works, and the lighting can be a little sketchy. On the plus sides, the problems seem burlier and better for training as opposed to simulating outdoor problems, if that makes sense. I always feel really worked after Rockover, which isn't always the case at the Works.
There also is plenty of room to properly warm up, stretch etc at Rockover, and you don't have small children running underneath you like what happens too often for comfort at the Works.