[Tim Broughtonshaw]

The campus board looks as though when it was put in it was forgotten that the mats were going to raise the floor hight by a foot or so. Hence it's now very low and pretty much useless. It would be better being bigger and wider. I predict it will get very little use in its current form.

They've told me when saying the same as you that they are going to reposition the campus board  imminently. But this was soon after opening and as yet there appears to be no signs of it being moved soon.  Shame really cause a really good campus setup is essential to make the bouldering wall a rounded training venue.


Cheers
Tim

[maybe_si]

Hi Tim, Rupert et al.

Im glad you like the place so far, the Beastmaker will be getting more foot holds soon, also with regards the campus board we are currently in the process of designing an entirely new training area upstairs, we hope to have this completed in time for the winter training season.  In the mean time please keep throwing feedback at us and bear with us as we are still trying to catch up with ourselves after opening!

Cheers

Simon

[account_inactive]

I went the other week and forgot to post some thoughts.......

On the whole I think this is a great wall for Manchester.  The natural light is great (even if people complain about the heat.  It also looks like you have loads of space to expand when you see fit. 

As Ru said the Beastmaker board could do with having some more variation in footholds.  I also like Entreprise holds, but some variation would be good (i know you are sponsored and I also realise they will be less rapey in a bit).  The cave at the back needs some lighting as it looks a bit grotty without.  Setting is a little all over the place grade wise but as with any new centre I'm sure this will sort itself out.  The music that was played was awful.  I know this is personal taste but hell this was terrible rock music.  If I notice the music at a wall then it's bad.

Overall I would be well psyched to climb there if I lived in Manchester.  As it is I live in Sheffield and have the Works and the Foundry 

[Nike Air]

hi Si,  has the comp wall been reset recently?
 
cheers

[Jim]

vickers reset it on wednesday

[Nike Air]

vickers reset it on wednesday

cool, nice1 Jim.

[maybe_si]

Cave lighting is also on the to do list, as for the terrible cheesy rock music, i may have had something to do with that!

Cheers

Si

[highrepute]

i'll have my twopence worth, good to see someone's listening si.

positives
nice atmosphere, good lighting (sure its hot but where isn't in the summer), like the higher walls, pretty good wall really. I'd go there if I lived in manchester and I do so i will be.

negatives
campus board needs sorting, too low and no footholds. moving up stairs seems like a good move, it's not in a great place where it is.
beastmaker finger boards are way off vertical, use a spirit level and sort them out.
the traverse block upstairs is rubbish, like really rubbish, the corners on it mean that you can't actual do anyclimbing it felt a bit like traversing round my kitchen. a straight wall that you can do traversing on would be much better. I would appreciate some power endurance training, something like the wall on the right at the works as you come in the door.
the new comp problems are good but all very similar in style, i.e. crimpy. could do with a steeper section on comp wall so problems can be hard with bigger holds.

basically, and this isn't a very useful comment, i think the works is the best bouldering wall around, so the more like the works you make this wall the better it will be

[maybe_si]

Traverse block is coming down and traverse wall is going up, also power endurance will be catered for with the new circuit board we will be putting upstairs and as i mentioned before the campus board will be moving soon too, 

hope this helps!

Simon

[saltbeef]

i agree
too few footholds on beast maker board
other changes sound good

[highrepute]

Traverse block is coming down and traverse wall is going up, also power endurance will be catered for with the new circuit board we will be putting upstairs and as i mentioned before the campus board will be moving soon too, 

hope this helps!

Simon

Sounds ace, look forward to the changes. good to see you taking the comments on here on board!

[maybe_si]

Jamie set 30 new problems this morning, the green v7/8 circuit and the yellow world cup circuit, they look desperate!  Also I set a big old traverse/route all around the islands which goes at around f6c(ish)?

[Stoat]

Looks like an excellent venue. Good to see owners who seem keen to satisfy every whim of their patrons. I wish that the new owners of my gym were as consumer friendly. After requesting heavier dum bells I was classed as a body builder and therefore undesirable.

Also, I may be old, but I prefered walls where you made your own problems.

Yeah, I know, just fucking old!

[erm, sam]

Also, I may be old, but I prefered walls where you made your own problems.

Well nobody is going to stop you from setting  your own problems, so go for it. I don't really see how having lots of marked problems stops you doing this.

[Eddies]

I took my first trip there today and was impressed.
Good spread of nice problems through the grades. plenty of traversing, nice roof in the middle and steep caves and steep training wall in the dark bit! I dint touch the Beastmaker but it looked like just the ticket for week day beasting sessions.
The comp wall was very good, nice variety.
It was very hot and sweaty in there today and there could be more sofas or bean bags down stairs to chill/change on, also there was no music on today.
I hope it gest the attention it deserves 

[a dense loner]

did you ask them to put some music on?

[Wipey Why]

also there was no music on today.

If you ask they are generally pretty accommodating.

[Eddies]

It didnt really bother me to be honest, we hardly noticed. Just an observation that seemed strange at the time.
They really do seem like their going their best to get things just right there. 

[maybe_si]

i'm glad you had a good session, its odd there was no music, i shall have to sack all the staff that worked on the weekend at once! 

On a serious note, if there is no music or if the music is terrible (usually my ipod)  then just mention it at reception and we will change it, either that or you are welcome to bring in your own playlists and we can play those

[saltbeef]

any plans to put a few more footholds on the beastmaker board?

[fiveknuckle21]

The board seems to have been vandalised updated with new resin footholds. I think people were insinuating a higher frequency rather than larger size... I could have sat and had a cuppa on some of them.

[Andy F]

After a quick visit yesterday I'm happy to say that it's a great facility. Grades are a bit all over the place, but the quality of the problems is great 

[Tim Broughtonshaw]

The board seems to have been vandalised updated with new resin footholds. I think people were insinuating a higher frequency rather than larger size... I could have sat and had a cuppa on some of them.

fear not ive been told by staff that the resins are to be replaced by some more beastmaker foot holds but they are on order with the beastmaker chaps and awaiting arrival.



Cheers
Tim

[Serpico]

You appear to be a bit of a convert (convict?) Tim, time for another name change?
 Tim Rockovershaw?

[Tim Broughtonshaw]

You appear to be a bit of a convert (convict?) Tim, time for another name change?
 Tim Rockovershaw?

No mate, just a temporary measure until broughton gets its act together and mounts  the freestanding boulder boards  onto the wall. ( which they have been promising for around 12 Months now). Im currently alternating sessions at the walls. Also Sector hero temperatures arent quite here yet. But they are coming......

Also i have renamed rockoverclimbing to prisonbloc as it sounds much much better (IMO). Any other nomenclatures based around the strangeways theme are welcomed

Cheers
Tim