UKBouldering.com
places to visit => indoor walls => competitions => Topic started by: Durbs on August 18, 2015, 01:53:52 pm
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IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) -Meiringen (SUI) 2016 PROVISIONAL
16 - 17 April 2016
IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Kazo (JPN) 2016 PROVISIONAL
23 - 24 April 2016
IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B,S) -Chongqing (CHN) 2016 PROVISIONAL
30 April - 1 May 2016
IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Navi Mumbai (IND) 2016 PROVISIONAL
13 - 15 May 2016
IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Tyrol (AUT) 2016 PROVISIONAL
20 - 21 May 2016
IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - (CAN) 2016 PROVISIONAL
4 - 5 June 2016
IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Vail (USA) 2016 PROVISIONAL
9 - 12 June 2016
IFSC Climbing Worldcup (L,S) - Central Saanich (CAN) 2016 PROVISIONAL
IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Munich (GER) 2016 PROVISIONAL
12 - 13 August 2016
Master Event - Adidas Rockstars (B) - Stuttgart (GER) 2016
30 September - 1 October 2016
Months too early - but as 2015 is finished, can start on 2016 discussion now :D
Any predictions at this early stage?
Mass illness in Mumbai?
Return of the Russians?
Year of the Youth?
Can China sort out internet?
All will be revealed.
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Mass illness in Mumbai?
Return of the Russians?
Year of the Youth?
Can China sort out internet?
1. Only if people are stupid (BTW more people were ill in Millau 2013 than in Chongqing 2013. One particular dish in one particular restaurant got about 6 people including me)
2. Rumour has it that Dima will quit
3. It is already the time of the Youth, Jongwon is only 19
4. If it wants to then yes. But we aren't FIFA or the IOC so probably no.
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;D
1) True dat - I was in India for 5 weeks with the Mrs and neither of us got ill, even eating street food (Clue: Don't eat the meat).
2) Dima looked like he'd already given up in Munich, lots of half-arsed attempts in the semi's with him just dropping off the wall, or giving up with over a minute left. Shame that. Out of interest, is there anything in the IFSC rules about non-competitiveness? As in, if someone got a place in the semi's, then just walked on, then off again (if they're having a strop) is it legal? A few sports have rules saying something along the lines of competitors must try.
3) Chon, Nathaniel, Gibert, Masceranas... all < 19 and making finals.
4) Out of interest, do you know why China are so keen to host IFSC events? They don't seem to have many top-level competitors (at least in Bouldering), but are regular hosts. There's lots of good rock climbing in China, so is it a tourism thing, or are they trying to build a climbing squad?
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4) Out of interest, do you know why China are so keen to host IFSC events? They don't seem to have many top-level competitors (at least in Bouldering), but are regular hosts. There's lots of good rock climbing in China, so is it a tourism thing, or are they trying to build a climbing squad?
I think it's probably a prestige thing: hosting sports events is one way of trying to get your city's name out there. Haiyang and Chongqing aren't particularly glamorous places.
If China wanted to build a climbing squad centrally, then they'd just get some of the leftovers from the gymnastics program and crush very quickly.
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2) Dima looked like he'd already given up in Munich, lots of half-arsed attempts in the semi's with him just dropping off the wall, or giving up with over a minute left. Shame that. Out of interest, is there anything in the IFSC rules about non-competitiveness? As in, if someone got a place in the semi's, then just walked on, then off again (if they're having a strop) is it legal? A few sports have rules saying something along the lines of competitors must try.
It would come under Unsportsmanlike behaviour so could be punished with a yellow or a red card.
You have just reminded me of something from a BICC at the Rock Face in Brum back around 1998. If a certain Mr Parry won he would finish 2nd overall, but that would mean beating Mr Vickers, which was nigh on impossible in those days. Mr Vickers fell off the 1st move. Both Gaz and Ian were red carded for unsportsmanlike behaviour as it was very deliberate :spank:
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4) Out of interest, do you know why China are so keen to host IFSC events? They don't seem to have many top-level competitors (at least in Bouldering), but are regular hosts. There's lots of good rock climbing in China, so is it a tourism thing, or are they trying to build a climbing squad?
I think it's probably a prestige thing: hosting sports events is one way of trying to get your city's name out there. Haiyang and Chongqing aren't particularly glamorous places.
If China wanted to build a climbing squad centrally, then they'd just get some of the leftovers from the gymnastics program and crush very quickly.
Yep, it is about prestige although in the case of Chongqing it is also about show casing the products of Geckoking, a wall manufacturer based in Chongqing.
If climbing gets into Tokyo 2020 then you can be sure that China will have a centrally built squad.
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1. Will miss Wurm's tongue-sticking-out smiles - YES.
2. Will be watching and enjoying almost all the comps - YES.
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1. Will miss Wurm's tongue-sticking-out smiles - YES.
2. Will be watching and enjoying almost all the comps - YES.
She will be at the BIFF :ras:
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The world fell out of my body for 5 wks in India. I felt like I was going to die, much to the chagrin of others I didn't.
I think India's a very silly addition to the circuit.
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Perhaps Rustam and Alexey will reimpose Russian domination. Would also be interesting to see a new Russian boulderer doing well, seems like all the good ones have been competing for ages now. Will be great to see all the new world cups, lots of them is better than less imo.
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Perhaps Rustam and Alexey will reimpose Russian domination. Would also be interesting to see a new Russian boulderer doing well, seems like all the good ones have been competing for ages now. Will be great to see all the new world cups, lots of them is better than less imo.
And I get to spend some time in Japan and India ;D
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I worked in India for a week eat lots of veg and non veg meals and I was not ill. the food was amazingly good. I did get very ill for a few days from my injections before I went.
As long as you are careful and remember to brush your teeth with bottled water and keep you mouth shut in the shower you should be fine.
Have to say I hated India and will not return unless I am really pushed by work never by choice/holiday.
The people are fantastic but found the experience aweful. The worst thing for me was the treatment of what they saw of the lesser people. Like the security guard outside my hotel checking on the guy laying dead in the street by giving him a boot to see if he moved. He did not so just walked away.
I could not deal with the traffic either thankfully I did not have to drive but I am always worried about traffic after being in a car crash in Shanghai
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Not sure if anyone here can speak Russian, but here is a great recent interview with Alexey Rubtsov. The questions and answers are characteristically blunt and detailed, makes for very interesting reading. The main points of the interview are that:
Rubtsov thinks that he is just as strong, or sometimes stronger than the other regular finalists, and that it is not strength that separates the competition but technique at this point
His two main goals of 2016 are to get in the top three of the overall championships and climb 8C. He plans to attend all bouldering events.
He has no sponsors, works as a coach at his gym
Also aims to get into the 2017 Olympic showing of bouldering in Poland, has anyone else heard about this or have any information? According to him the quota of sportsmen that get into it is based on pure competition results, and nothing to do with countries.
Would be nice to collect IFSC related interviews and news here as well as competition results, hopefully people are interested in the above.
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The world fell out of my body for 5 wks in India. I felt like I was going to die, much to the chagrin of others I didn't.
I think India's a very silly addition to the circuit.
but it might reduce the number of people muttering "eating disorder" - perhaps it should be the first venue, so people have a reasonable sounding excuse for being thin for the whole series?
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That's a pretty good idea
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Not sure if anyone here can speak Russian, but here is a great recent interview with Alexey Rubtsov. The questions and answers are characteristically blunt and detailed, makes for very interesting reading. The main points of the interview are that:
Rubtsov thinks that he is just as strong, or sometimes stronger than the other regular finalists, and that it is not strength that separates the competition but technique at this point
His two main goals of 2016 are to get in the top three of the overall championships and climb 8C. He plans to attend all bouldering events.
He has no sponsors, works as a coach at his gym
Also aims to get into the 2017 Olympic showing of bouldering in Poland, has anyone else heard about this or have any information? According to him the quota of sportsmen that get into it is based on pure competition results, and nothing to do with countries.
Would be nice to collect IFSC related interviews and news here as well as competition results, hopefully people are interested in the above.
do you have a link?
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Not sure if anyone here can speak Russian, but here is a great recent interview with Alexey Rubtsov. The questions and answers are characteristically blunt and detailed, makes for very interesting reading. The main points of the interview are that:
Rubtsov thinks that he is just as strong, or sometimes stronger than the other regular finalists, and that it is not strength that separates the competition but technique at this point
His two main goals of 2016 are to get in the top three of the overall championships and climb 8C. He plans to attend all bouldering events.
He has no sponsors, works as a coach at his gym
Also aims to get into the 2017 Olympic showing of bouldering in Poland, has anyone else heard about this or have any information? According to him the quota of sportsmen that get into it is based on pure competition results, and nothing to do with countries.
Would be nice to collect IFSC related interviews and news here as well as competition results, hopefully people are interested in the above.
do you have a link?
Well that was stupid of me, forgot to paste it there. Here it is: http://c-f-r.ru/press/news/4957/
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The IFSC have released a video interview of Jule Wurm discussing why she retired from the World Cups: https://youtu.be/uwDDxnI7EKM
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Not sure if anyone here can speak Russian, but here is a great recent interview with Alexey Rubtsov. The questions and answers are characteristically blunt and detailed, makes for very interesting reading. The main points of the interview are that:
Rubtsov thinks that he is just as strong, or sometimes stronger than the other regular finalists, and that it is not strength that separates the competition but technique at this point
His two main goals of 2016 are to get in the top three of the overall championships and climb 8C. He plans to attend all bouldering events.
He has no sponsors, works as a coach at his gym
Also aims to get into the 2017 Olympic showing of bouldering in Poland, has anyone else heard about this or have any information? According to him the quota of sportsmen that get into it is based on pure competition results, and nothing to do with countries.
Would be nice to collect IFSC related interviews and news here as well as competition results, hopefully people are interested in the above.
do you have a link?
Well that was stupid of me, forgot to paste it there. Here it is: http://c-f-r.ru/press/news/4957/
Google attempt at translating:
https://translate.google.co.uk/translate?sl=ru&tl=en&js=y&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&u=http%3A%2F%2Fc-f-r.ru%2Fpress%2Fnews%2F4957%2F&edit-text=
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A slightly revised calendar, with no Canada WC. Iffy time conversions are my own:
| Day | Date | Finals: | Finals: | Venue | Country |
| | | Local time | UK time | | |
| Sat | 16/04/16 | 18:30 | 17:30 | Meiringen | Switzerland |
| Sun | 24/04/16 | 14:20 | 06:20 | Kazo | Japan |
| Sun | 01/05/16 | 17:00 | 10:00 | Chongqing | China |
| Sun | 15/05/16 | 18:30 | 14:00 | Navi Mumbai | India |
| Sat | 21/05/16 | 20:15 | 19:15 | Innsbruck | Austria |
| Sat | 11/06/16 | 16:30 | 23:30 | Vail | USA |
| Sat | 13/08/16 | ??:?? | -1 hour | Munich | Germany |
I also noticed this fundraiser was posted on UKC yesterday for the hire of an internationally credited comp wall for the Mumbai WC, which is scheduled for a little over 6 weeks time: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=637685
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Bugger. The Munich round falls in school holidays & I'll be away. Innsbruck is on M jnr's birthday. Efforts to convince him it would be the perfect birthday outing are ongoing but haven't succeeded yet.
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Did no one think they'd have to host the world cup at a wall when they were given the task? Seems all thats happened is the ifsc has expected other people to pay for it, leaving it till now to get the tugging of heart strings involved. Fantastic choice for a venue :spank:
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This seems mental?
Aside from the fact they don't have a wall (not a problem, you can build a comp wall - though Baku is perhaps an example of why this is perhaps a bad idea).
If you are going to crowd-fund, 6 weeks beforehand seems a little pushed to raise the money, cash it, source a wall, and build it (and all supporting infrastructure).
Madness.
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The date is also a bit shit. Why do it 2 weeks post China instead of 1 week? if it were one, then all of the western travelers could knock out all three in a two week trip.
Same basic question for Swizz/Austria comps. Why separate them? Why not make it feasible for the eastern guys to do both in a single trip?
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I don't know anything about the scheduling of the WC's, but from trawling through the IFSC calendar I saw that the week after the China comp there's a Masters event in Nanjing, China. The prize money is a touch more than a WC too, so I'm presuming that the organisers are hoping that the big names will stick around for it.
More interestingly, Megan Mascarenas has registered for the first WC of the season.
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http://climbingworldcup.ketto.org/ClimbingBeyondBorders
Does this mean Mumbai might not happen?
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Hope not. What a shit idea. Whoever thought of this in the ifsc should be made to pay out of their own pocket or be sacked.
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OK. The season is starting. Prepare your bets....
Mine is as follows, assuming the people who register for Meiringen have funding to do enough comps to be competitive...
1) Akiyo Noguchi
2) Shauna Coxey
3) Megan Mascarenas*
Janja Garnbret should surely get into top three if she's doing the entire circuit, but I think not?
Anna Stöhr?
Fanny Gibert?
Monika Retchy?
One of the younger Japanese girls?
*If funding is in place
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I assume Schubert just does the WC in Austria because it is in Austria, and not the entire tour?
1) Jongwon Chon
2) Alban Levier
3) Jan Hojer
Alexey Rubtsov?
Kokoro Fuji?
Sean McColl?
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http://climbingworldcup.ketto.org/ClimbingBeyondBorders
Does this mean Mumbai might not happen?
RS 100,000 is only about £1,000. Doesn't sound enough to build/import a compwall+pads+holds+etc even in India.
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http://climbingworldcup.ketto.org/ClimbingBeyondBorders
Does this mean Mumbai might not happen?
RS 100,000 is only about £1,000. Doesn't sound enough to build/import a compwall+pads+holds+etc even in India.
In the link it looks like it's RS 1,000,000 even if the commas are arranged weirdly.
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ah right, mis-read it.
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Either way it doesn't look like good news for the comp. They've raised about £500 out of the £10,000 required.
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The main fundraising page is this one: http://climbingworldcup.ketto.org/ which has 19 campaigns and a grand total of Rs.16,90,946 raised (£17,800). But an fb post by Girivihar (who I think are the organiser) said they need Rs.40,00,000 by 16th April.
So, on one hand they've raised a shedload more than £500. On the other, it seems that they may be less than half-way to their target with 3 days left.
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well, I hope they get enough. It's a gamble that could pay off.
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Men:
1) Jongwon Chon
2) Hojer
3) Mcoll
Women:
1) Coxsey
2) Akiyo
3) Pooch / Masceranas
Notice Pooch isn't attending Austria? Assume she is competing this year, but maybe not enough comps to win, same as Megan...
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Qualification has started.
Dave Barrans, Ty Landman, Nathan Phillips and Billy Ridal for the brit mens.
Shauna Coxsey, Leah Crane, Micheala Tracey and Tara Hayes for the women.
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Looks like Jan didn't get the bonus on the first prob
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This live anywhere, can't find a link.
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They don't show qualifiers do they? Or am I going mad? :'(
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Go Rustam! I will fucking love it if he's on fire this year
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Dunno dense, can always hope. If Liam managed to periscope the British Champs surely someone could do similar in Switzerland?
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They don't show qualifiers do they? Or am I going mad? :'(
They didn't show the quals last year, sometimes put a couple of videos I think though.
Go Rustam! I will fucking love it if he's on fire this year
Same here! I first started watching comps when Rustam was in his prime so its good to see him going well again.
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Looks like he faded though :-(
Edit, I spoke too soon! Yes!
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How many qualification rounds are there? As I don't see any of the GB men in the results so far?
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You got the app? There's one qualification round, five problems, split into two groups. Top ten of each group go through to semis. Its order of seeding, so our boys come out later. Barrans is first, should start soon, Billy Ridal is one of the last to climb.
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You got the app? There's one qualification round, five problems, split into two groups. Top ten of each group go through to semis. Its order of seeding, so our boys come out later. Barrans is first, should start soon, Billy Ridal is one of the last to climb.
I haven't, is it just an IFSC one?
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https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/latest-news/item/263-the-ifsc-on-your-smartphone
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Barrans is climbing and is the first to top problem one in his half of the draw!
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Dmitrii is out. Wasn't he retiring last year?
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3t9 5b9 enough to get Barrans through? 6th place at the moment!
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Should be I reckon. Ty needs tops on these last 2 to have a decent chance though.
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Ty is through, 5th in his pool atm. Nathan starts in a min, going to need 3 tops...
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Jongwon Chon only just qualifying atm, 9th with 2 tops. Should be ok though as we're down to the (relative) minnows now.
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Great performance so far! Has Billy climbed yet? Can't find him on results..
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Just started.
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GB Men's qualifying results:
9) Tyler Landmann - 3t7 4b16
13) Dave Barrans - 3t9 5b9
56) Nathan Philips - 0t 3b4
62) Billy Ridal - 0t 3b11
Most of the usual suspects seem to have made it to the semis, should be a good one!
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Women have started, Shauna's topped P1 (t3 b3).
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You should live tweet these results Duma.
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Ha! don't tweet I'm afraid.
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5t8 5b8 from Shauna, looking strong!!
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Yeah, cruising.
Anna is struggling though.
Leah's topped P1 too.
looking fwd to seeing how Janja does after she destroyed them all at the legends thing.
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Leah looking very good (3t7 out of 3 so far)
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Really good by Leah, and Tara not doing bad either. 2 out of 3 so far..
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Stasa Gejo??
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Awesome effort from Leah!
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Tara needs this last problem
Micheala's climbing now too (1t2, 1b2)
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Leah in action
https://www.facebook.com/facebook/videos/10153231379946729/
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Barrans from the mens qualification
https://www.facebook.com/facebook/videos/10153231379946729/
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Damnit Duma - I have to be your friend on FB to see the action :furious: :shrug:
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I think the error might be Duma's here, seeing as both of those links are to the same "sharing with friends" video. Sterling job otherwise!
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Oops
The one of Leah is on Shauna's page, and the one of Barrans failing is on Leah's page
they're both set to public so thought they would be visible?
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https://www.facebook.com/leah.crane.5/?fref=ts
https://www.facebook.com/shauna.coxsey.3/?fref=ts
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ah. Cheers.
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Anyway - looks like Shauna, Leah and Micheala through! Effort from Tara as well, just seems she faded on the later problems
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Anna out!
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Bit crap of the ifsc to post on fb that the results were available when someone was still climbing, especially when their result could (and as it turned out, did) affect who went through, ie knocking out Anna Stohr!
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Ah, they've edited the post now to say mens.
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Can't remember 5 Brit's making it to the semis! Has it happened before (recently)?
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Don't know, great effort by all though!
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Round up from today:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TFPmI5gjnRg
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Random montage of clips. It would be nice if to see the problems actually climbed and see a few key battles.
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Live stream for Finals:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mgr2ZTv6MAA
Shauna and Ty
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Replay of semis:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PVSNnLm3mlk
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Onboulderings round up of Male qualis
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t4lJQUekzj0&feature=youtu.be
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Also appears to be a "camera 2" link on youtube livestream (should be live now but nothing showing yet):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QeUgd8Hm_rs
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Youtube not working for me. Backup stream here:
http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/component/k2/item/610-live-streaming-backup
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Cheers!
bit irrelavent for the girls anyway as Janja is going to walk it!
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That link only works sporadically. Fucking brilliant as always
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What a crock of shit
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your rage is making me feel a bit better about it though dense
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app's not updating the womens scores either
brilliant.
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According to Twitter they have switched of the YouTube stream for some reason. Think the backup is being streamed via an early 2000's camera phone. Typical IFSC! Shambles
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If this carries on I'm going to take the cost of my TV out on Graham's wine cellar, which will be considerably more expensive than the cost of putting on the comp in India!
How in the name of God can you get the feed right for the semis and not the final? :wall:
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Cheers Oaksi, or I'd still be sitting in front of the youtube page, not worrying 'cos there's usually half an hour of preamble.
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How in the name of God can you get the feed right for the semis and not the final? :wall:
this!
its the same fucking venue!
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on the upside it appears Shauna did the first prob and thus is still in the running to come second to Janja
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How in the name of God can you get the feed right for the semis and not the final? :wall:
this!
its the same fucking venue!
I think when this has happened before they have blamed increased local internet usage. No idea how plausible that is..
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Fucking hell...
:wall: :furious:
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the other stream has died now - same for you lot?
just as Ty came out too!
Janja didn't do W1 though, so Shauna's looking good!
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Back on here!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uy-SAx3Qsbo
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Quality is good on that link, thank god. Hopefully it doesn't cut out again. What a shambles...
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cheers! Doesn't look like Ty made it
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Shauna did though! get in!
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I can't get any of the links to work!!
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uy-SAx3Qsbo (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uy-SAx3Qsbo)
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This is the latest one, working for me.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uy-SAx3Qsbo
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Get in!
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Shauna wins, great effort! Ty had some good efforts too, especially on p4..
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Cheers for that link, couldn't be bothered watching to the end tho :(
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It is a new company doing the streaming this year.
I can't comment publicly on what I thought about the streaming etc or other stuff.
But I can say that Jens on 8a.nu is talking his normal bollocks. Ty could have won if he did P4 in short time.
It was a good comp, tense to the end for the men and for the women it was tense until Melissa climbed.
I have a few other gripes about the way things were done but they are for a private email to the IFSC.
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Thanks for the info Graeme, appreciated. Thought it was good bar the streaming issues, would have been nice to see a top on M4 and/or W4 too.
Was interesting to see how the young guns were crushing in the semis / qualifying, but faded by the finals - do you think the likes of Shauna and Melissa do specific work to deal with the format of the WCs (qualifying one afternoon then a hard morning and evening session the next day), or is it just the adrenaline etc is more draining the first couple of times you make the finals?
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Oh and like every WC I've ever watched, I was still yelling at the screen when others were climbing but the shot stayed with someone who just fallen, or was chalking up etc.
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Jens on 8a.nu is talking his normal bollocks
I sometimes wonder if his "upside down theory" has a small element of truth.
Alban Levier was talking in a video itw about listening to "painfully loud" music in isolation so he wouldn't hear the crowd and guess what climbers before him were doing.
And i wonder what happens if the athlete climbing before you is a thin-skinned hold greaser, making 5+ attempts?
Loosely related
Wondering what happened with janja garnbret. Can't decide if
a) her controlled "let's chalk up mid crux and lock it off statically" style only works up to a certain intensity...make it a tiny bit harder, ask her to take some risks, and she isn't ready.
b) it's just lack of experience.
other note:
french climbers picking a beta and getting stubborn with it, right or wrong. Alban Levier and Clementine Kaiser... wonder if other finalists had the same problem (only seen bits of the comp).
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Thanks for the info Graeme, appreciated. Thought it was good bar the streaming issues, would have been nice to see a top on M4 and/or W4 too.
Was interesting to see how the young guns were crushing in the semis / qualifying, but faded by the finals - do you think the likes of Shauna and Melissa do specific work to deal with the format of the WCs (qualifying one afternoon then a hard morning and evening session the next day), or is it just the adrenaline etc is more draining the first couple of times you make the finals?
I wondered about that. Was expecting Jam Jar to crush after looking much stronger than everyone else in the semis, but she must have used up all her jam.
Commentator had never heard of a drop-knee. Very odd. Shame the French route setter who did half the semis didn't return, he was good.
Fairly interesting overall. Not the most exciting, but intriguing to see the new crop of younger women challenging the established elite.
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Alban Levier was talking in a video itw about listening to "painfully loud" music in isolation so he wouldn't hear the crowd and guess what climbers before him were doing.
For quite a while now, I've felt that in the finals especially that the climbers should be forced to now all the scores along the way so some element of mental pressure can be put on them.
Like there would have to be a results screen staring them in the face in isolation.
However, it seems far too often that the electronic scoring stops for a while, that this probably couldn't happen yet.
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Like there would have to be a results screen staring them in the face in isolation.
They don't even manage to get a results screen staring spectators & stream viewers in the face most of the time.
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Jens on 8a.nu is talking his normal bollocks
I sometimes wonder if his "upside down theory" has a small element of truth.
I think more than anything the holds being consistently used for 20 odd minutes beforehand plays a big part in this, I mean even if they are getting brushed they're still going to heat up and world cup holds don't tend to be very incut...
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Jens on 8a.nu is talking his normal bollocks
I sometimes wonder if his "upside down theory" has a small element of truth.
I think more than anything the holds being consistently used for 20 odd minutes beforehand plays a big part in this, I mean even if they are getting brushed they're still going to heat up and world cup holds don't tend to be very incut...
Jens talks bollocks because he cherry picks his stats and ignores all other considerations.
Eg 1 the stats will not show that if Ty had done P4 1st or 2nd try then he won thus disproving the upside down nonsense.
Eg 2 Shauna has won 4 times now, twice from 1st in the semi, once from 5th and once from 6th. Hardly conclusive evidence for anything other than the theory is there is bugger all correlation between start position and final ranking.
Eg 3 In the CWIF you know that you are either getting the slab in the semi or in the final (likewise with the vert return on the other side). So if you get the slab in the semi and are good at them then you might qualify highly but do badly in the final because your forte is missing. This type of thing happens at most World Cups
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The French are off to a good start :2thumbsup: Akiyo looked tired, wonder if it's an indication for the season or just one of those days. Home crowd next week though which might give her a boost.
Good to have the young guns Megan and Janja snapping at the heels of the usual podium finishers. Should keep the pressure on. Ty throwing his shoes on the floor after M2, he did not look happy.
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.
Eg 3 In the CWIF you know that you are either getting the slab in the semi or in the final (likewise with the vert return on the other side). So if you get the slab in the semi and are good at them then you might qualify highly but do badly in the final because your forte is missing. This type of thing happens at most World Cups
Which might offer a "c" explanation to my JG mistery
Potentially endless topic.
Making it simple, lets say we only have 2 styles, slab and compression. Only two rounds, each one heavily skewed in one direction
Which one is the best comp: the one selecting the best slabber among compressors, or the one selecting the best compressor among slabbers?
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Have you been drinking?
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Have you been drinking?
Of course :alky:
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Yeh, whilst I'm very appreciative of the live streams it'd be nice to get:
- Split screens.
- A presenter who actually knows something about climbing and can commentate.
I never saw the commentator but it sounded like the annoying epictv presenter.
*EDIT* toned down attack on epic tv presenter.
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Yeh, whilst I'm very appreciative of the live streams it'd be nice to get:
- Split screens.
- A presenter who actually knows something about climbing and can commentate.
I never saw the commentator but it sounded like the annoying epictv presenter.
*EDIT* toned down attack on epic tv presenter.
They sometimes have split screens for semis as there are so many climbers out but not in the finals. I don't think it would be necessary in the final if they would avoid broadcasting climbers resting/chalking up whilst there is another climber on the wall. I think the problem with the commentary is that they always seem to target it towards people who know little/nothing about climbing or comps even though 99% of viewers must know at least the basics of what is going on.
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There is also the fact that no one who doesn't climb is going to watch a climbing comp, by that I mean with no association to climbing. So why do they cater primarily for these people? Fair enough if it's part of some massive thing, say the olympics, but it never is.
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It was fairly evident that the guy didn't even know what a dropknee or a toehook was until he picked the terms up from Fanny. There was a funny section where Fanny didn't know the English word for matching and asked him and he just repeated her question and then changed the subject. Seriously, get a climber to commentate.
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He's annoying after just ten seconds introducing epictv vids , who thought it was a good idea to put him on commentary for that length of time .
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Will someone who cares please do a Pearson's correlation on semi rank vs final rank for, say, 2015. If it's significantly negative
don't tell Jens. If it's NS or significantly positive, tell Jens.
Jens on 8a.nu is talking his normal bollocks
I sometimes wonder if his "upside down theory" has a small element of truth.
I think more than anything the holds being consistently used for 20 odd minutes beforehand plays a big part in this, I mean even if they are getting brushed they're still going to heat up and world cup holds don't tend to be very incut...
Jens talks bollocks because he cherry picks his stats and ignores all other considerations.
Eg 1 the stats will not show that if Ty had done P4 1st or 2nd try then he won thus disproving the upside down nonsense.
Eg 2 Shauna has won 4 times now, twice from 1st in the semi, once from 5th and once from 6th. Hardly conclusive evidence for anything other than the theory is there is bugger all correlation between start position and final ranking.
Eg 3 In the CWIF you know that you are either getting the slab in the semi or in the final (likewise with the vert return on the other side). So if you get the slab in the semi and are good at them then you might qualify highly but do badly in the final because your forte is missing. This type of thing happens at most World Cups
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There is also the fact that no one who doesn't climb is going to watch a climbing comp, by that I mean with no association to climbing. So why do they cater primarily for these people? Fair enough if it's part of some massive thing, say the olympics, but it never is.
And only a tiny minority of climbers too in my experience. I can't think of anybody apart from me in my circle of regular climbing partners who follows or gives a shit about comps, and I only follow or give a shit about bouldering. Otoh the live audience turnout at events in Munich is usually pretty large, so maybe my mates aren't typical.
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Will someone who cares please do a Pearson's correlation on semi rank vs final rank for, say, 2015. If it's significantly negative
don't tell Jens. If it's NS or significantly positive, tell Jens.
Anyone who interacts in any way with eight-a dot new or Jens is a fool.
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Will someone who cares please do a Pearson's correlation on semi rank vs final rank for, say, 2015. If it's significantly negative don't tell Jens. If it's NS or significantly positive, tell Jens.
Knock yourself out (http://vassarstats.net/corr_rank.html)
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Broadcasting issues aside (I didn't watch live, but the catch up video starts halfway through M1...) good start to the season.
I'm not as annoyed with this commentator as previous ones ("Shouty One" or "Non-Shouty One") though to echo everyone else surely there's someone out there with a good knowledge of climbing and who can talk into a mic coherently? Liam Lonsdale? Jon Pass Babtridge?
Men's was tense to the end, thought Ty was going to steal it at the end but alas no. Both Ty and Melissa seemed to be some of the few who actually get angry with failure (Ondra too but he wasn't in it). Lots of shoe-throwing going on from Ty - who throws a shoe?
Women's was quite a surprise. Akiyo not only looked tired, but wasn't reading beta well, didn't look herself at all? Laurel resting or an off day? Next week will show. Janja looked either gassed or just didn't have the raw power in the first place - she's so slender compared to the others... Enjoyed the mantle (W3?) - we've all been there.
I think I mentioned after the Rockstars (or Legends Only... the one where Janja destroyed everyone), although it was a thrashing, she was competing against a recently recovered Stoher, a non-comp ready Shauna, a no-longer-competing Wurm and an only-just-competed La Neve so might have skewed the results slightly.
Side-note: Is Pooch not competing this year or just not that round?
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I suspect Pooch is still in rehab from her knee injury. She has been doing a bit outdoors and a few comps in America but may be she's not ready for the world cup stage.
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I think the setting was a factor in Janja's uninspiring showing. There were a few long moves that must have made it harder for her. The start of the mantle problem and the last slab come to mind, not that anyone climbed the latter. I was rooting for Ty, but it seems that people who qualify really highly don't have as much left in the tank on finals day. There's probably a lot to be said for having enough comp experience to dose your effort correctly.
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I can't think of anybody apart from me in my circle of regular climbing partners who follows or gives a shit about comps, and I only follow or give a shit about bouldering. Otoh the live audience turnout at events in Munich is usually pretty large, so maybe my mates aren't typical.
Seems like a lot of the people at the wall are really into it. Which is maybe where most climbers are these days? Amongst people who actually go outside regularly, there doesn't seem to be as much interest, though amongst people I know there are definitely a few fans.
Broadcasting issues aside (I didn't watch live, but the catch up video starts halfway through M1...) good start to the season.
Women's was quite a surprise. Akiyo not only looked tired, but wasn't reading beta well, didn't look herself at all? Laurel resting or an off day? Next week will show. Janja looked either gassed or just didn't have the raw power in the first place - she's so slender compared to the others... Enjoyed the mantle (W3?) - we've all been there.
I think I mentioned after the Rockstars (or Legends Only... the one where Janja destroyed everyone), although it was a thrashing, she was competing against a recently recovered Stoher, a non-comp ready Shauna, a no-longer-competing Wurm and an only-just-competed La Neve so might have skewed the results slightly.
For my sins, I watched the semis. all of those excuses the other competitors might have had in the legends only event were null and void. Jar jar crushed. She chalked up on several problems mid crux, made everything look casual, and staticked moves the other top girls were snatching at. She looked like she did in that other comp - a level above everyone else. Her performance in the finals was a big surprise. Maybe she struggles to handle two sessions in one day?
it seems that people who qualify really highly don't have as much left in the tank on finals day. There's probably a lot to be said for having enough comp experience to dose your effort correctly.
this doesn't make a lot of sense. the winners of the semis will have done the problems in the fewest goes, thus having spent the least effort.
Tyler didn't look that tired - I think the problems just didn't suit him as well as the semis problems.
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There doesn't seem to be that much comp watching interest at the wall I go to
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... the winners of the semis will have done the problems in the fewest goes, thus having spent the least effort.
Good point!
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20 minutes of looking at and tabulating all 2015 results gives me a weakly positive but non sig correlation between semi rank and final rank. Inappropriate linear model added for the crack.
Quite happy with that bit of procrastination actually.
(http://i67.tinypic.com/286r87s.png)
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NB: I got some possibly inaccurate ranks for one event (Toronto I think) because I just lifted them from the youtube vids and they were having trouble with the display thingy. Couldn't be arsed to check properly, but in any case I can't see it changing anything.
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Report up: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=70402
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Mrs and I watched the semis and finals (not live we were out climbing :tease:) and weren't as captivated as previous years - probably lots of reasons for this - however, enjoyed overall. Great to see Shauna look so strong and Mellisa (hottest competitor by far) do so well! Looking forward to Japan... :bounce:
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Mellisa (hottest competitor by far)
Jessica Pilz!
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Mrs and I watched the semis and finals (not live we were out climbing :tease:) and weren't as captivated as previous years - probably lots of reasons for this - however, enjoyed overall. Great to see Shauna look so strong and Mellisa (hottest competitor by far) do so well! Looking forward to Japan... :bounce:
Obviously you weren't as captivated as you weren't catching fleeting glimpses of yours truly flitting around :-)
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Mellisa (hottest competitor by far)
Jessica Pilz!
Anna Laitinen? (Normally doesn't get through the quals)
Piccy at the bottom of http://onbouldering.com/european-bouldering-championship-2013-qualifiers/
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Mellisa (hottest competitor by far)
Jessica Pilz!
Anna Laitinen?
We may have a winner.
Perhaps we we could have some kind of special thread for pictures of the best-looking boulderers :worms:
Wouldn't necessarily have to be restricetd to the ladies: Jan is a decent looking chap for example.
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Mellisa (hottest competitor by far)
Jessica Pilz!
Anna Laitinen? (Normally doesn't get through the quals)
Ty Landman for me.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2v8m8xMX9gU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t4lJQUekzj0
Footage from qualifying
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Obviously you weren't as captivated as you weren't catching fleeting glimpses of yours truly flitting around :)
This is true, although the back of Glennie's head was quite amusing. Will you be there to liven things up in Japan Graeme?
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Nope, I have a bad back/hip/leg due to sciatica & possibly failed surgery so have had to cancel the 1st half of the season, can't be lugging stuff around airports >:(
Hopefully be okay for Chamonix onward including Munich and Paris
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Dude! Sounds grim... Best of luck with recovery and hope to see your ugly mug on screen again soon :boxing:
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can they not get you some sort of Davros style judging chair, Graeme ?
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Nope, I have a bad back/hip/leg due to sciatica & possibly failed surgery so have had to cancel the 1st half of the season, can't be lugging stuff around airports >:(
Hopefully be okay for Chamonix onward including Munich and Paris
Herniated disc? Four epidural's and ~5 years and mine was only agonising.
Which was an improvement...
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*EDIT* toned down attack on epic tv presenter.
Charlie Boscoe - I can never watch the EpicTV Climbing Dailies because his face annoys me too much. I'm impressed that he has managed to present those for a year or more and still sound just as clueless as Shouty Commentator during that final.
Other than that the VOD is good, cool problems (perhaps a bit lacking in roof burl apart from F1) and some inspiring performances :2thumbsup:
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Shauna, Michaela and Leah have all qualified by the looks of it
:strongbench:
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was streamed. replay here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_xaopll9N94
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mens quali currently live
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=87UuIKxOrnI
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Have only 5 GB climbers gone to Japan? Tyler on the edge of going through
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Jongwon Chon out again! And Rei and Jorg...
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Nathan Phillips in 11th, bit gutting. Ty still hanging on, looks like only one guy could push him out now
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Unless the app is being veeeeeerrry slow to update, Ty has made it.
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Also, to the IFSC, could you find a way of showing on the app and/or the results page when a score is final (ie when the climbers time is up) it's annoying having to keep refreshing in case a score updates.
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Semis live 01:00 - 03:00
Finals 06:20 - 09:20
BST.
ugh.
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Don't think I'll be watching this one live! I like to have the live-scores open in another tab, its pretty hard to keep track of scores without. I wonder if they could put scrolling live scores across the bottom of the screen, that would be a big improvement on the way they currently display the scores between problems (sometimes).
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Reckon Micheala's due another final soon - she looked right up there with the top girls today.
Her and Leah seem to have stepped up a level from last year - hope they can keep it up. With Ty on form the Brit team is looking very strong atm.
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Shauna just flashed P3 so has won already as she was the only one to do P1 and P3. Good work :2thumbsup:
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Where can I find the live stream or reply please?
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https://youtu.be/jpG7NlG4gzo
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nice one Shauna
:bow:
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Dominant.
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the teenager whose idol is Shauna.
A point of view that is looking more understandable every day. :bow:
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Didn't see the semis but looks like Micheala only just missed the finals by number of bonus attempts.
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Not exactly a hair's breadth though:
Miho 1t2 4b4
Michaela 1t2 4b11
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Anyone know what happened to Akiyo? From the scores I'm guessing she's injured which would be a huge shame.
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I was about to ask the same question. Haven't watched the semis, but she was looking good in the bit of the qualis I had time for yesterday.
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Wow, two golds from two world cups for Shauna! So strong
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Yeah, she looks in a class of her own atm. Really psyched for Michaela, that's 8th then 7th, maybe next round she'll make the finals?
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Watching the comp now, seems utterly soulless :(
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I thought men's was better than women's.
Rustam!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jpG7NlG4gzo
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I thought it was excellent, the setting was good. Shauna needs a bit of competiton, but that's not her fault. The men's final was top stuff.
Commentator wants shooting, but which ones don't?
No upside-down results. ;)
Do I get a bottle of wine from GAs cellar now?
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Yeah, she looks in a class of her own atm.
Yup, she walked it. Amazing effort.
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Only watched the start but can I just say MIHO :wub: , that is all.
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Only watched the start but can I just say MIHO :wub: , that is all.
My thoughts exactly.
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Fucking hell, Shauna on the first problem, she was taking the piss, chalking up on holds other people were struggling to use :jaw:
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Edit: And problem 3 FFS :strongbench:
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Shauna cruised everything except the one everyone else cruised. go figure.
I thought the comp as a whole was amazing. It was awesome to see the climbing as a whole. Good variety, both overall and within the problems. After watching qualies, semis, and finals, it would appear the routesetters try not to overload any one hold type or pull/push motion. the variety was amazing.
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Shauna cruised everything except the one everyone else cruised. go figure.
I was wondering if anyone was going to comment on this; care to speculate further? I guess everyone has their respective strengths and weaknesses?
Miho's climbing style was amazing to watch.
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Shauna cruised everything except the one everyone else cruised. go figure.
obviously she did it deliberately so that the others didn't feel too bad
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Hmm, it was basically a slab wasn't it? Odd as I don't recall her generally struggling with them. Just seemed like the other girls trusted their feet more.
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She pissed the slab problem the week before where everyone had struggled a bit.
Maybe she knew she had the comp in the bag? Didn't she walk away before her time was out?
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Is she a bit shorter? The French pair in particular seemed to be pressing into the overhang more. I reckon being a top ahead probably takes the "I must flash this!" pressure off too, so perhaps she was content to just give it a few goes?
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Didn't she walk away before her time was out?
Shauna topped all four problems, I think
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Is she a bit shorter? The French pair in particular seemed to be pressing into the overhang more. I reckon being a top ahead probably takes the "I must flash this!" pressure off too, so perhaps she was content to just give it a few goes?
If you look back at the footage her foot/heel is at a funky ankle compared to the others (and it was an Anasazi heel!).
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Didn't she walk away before her time was out?
Shauna topped all four problems, I think
Ah OK, I must have missed her topping the last one, I was watching on a phone and relying on 3G, so it wasn't ideal.
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Yeah that problem showed different styles eh. The Francais just walked across it. Shauna's clearly spent too much time in grotty Welsh pits getting waaaay fucking strong.
Mens was good too, good variety of problems and the last one was exciting.
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I keep click around furiously on the IFSC website, but can't see the overall final results from Kazo, can anyone point me in the direction?
Thanks
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WOMEN (http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition/calendar#!comp=1635&cat=5)
MEN (http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition/calendar#!comp=1635&cat=6)
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Cheers min
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Megan Mascarenas didn't compete then? Is she injured, or just skipped it?
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No, her and margo didn't go
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Not on start list for China either.
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Is she a bit shorter? The French pair in particular seemed to be pressing into the overhang more. I reckon being a top ahead probably takes the "I must flash this!" pressure off too, so perhaps she was content to just give it a few goes?
Shauna's taller than Fanny I think
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Who's margo? Supermans squeeze?
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Margo Hayes
Made semis in Switzerland and recently did Pure Imagination in RRG
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How wide is Fanny?
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Shauna needs a bit of competiton, but that's not her fault.
Yeah. Anna injured. Akiyo for some reason not getting anywhere near finals. No sign of Janja, Megan or Pooch. Jule retired.
From the two rounds so far, it doesn't look like the others are at quite the same level.
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Akiyo looks completely out of sorts. Maybe an injury? She doesn't look anywhere near the climber she was last year. Or lack of motivation?
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How wide is Fanny?
Depends on girth
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Megan Mascarenas didn't compete then? Is she injured, or just skipped it?
I think the commentator said in Switzerland that Megan has school commitments this year and hopes to complete fully next season.
I believe that she's competing in the Vail WC, as is Puccio, but the IFSC's dire website doesn't work properly on my mobile so I can't check the list of starters.
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I think the commentator said in Switzerland that Megan has school commitments this year and hopes to complete fully next season.
I've stopped turning the sound on for WCs.
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I think the commentator said in Switzerland that Megan has school commitments this year and hopes to complete fully next season.
I've stopped turning the sound on for WCs.
He managed to compare climbing with golf last weekend!
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I think the commentator said in Switzerland that Megan has school commitments this year and hopes to complete fully next season.
I've stopped turning the sound on for WCs.
The Japanese TV commentators for the qualis were having a chat about Shauna's acro-yoga at one point. I would have been curious to understand what they were saying.
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Just managed to watch the replay. I thought the commentator was OK and that Sean McColl did a great job as co-commentator.
Melissa Le Neve was not miles off topping the problems she didn't do.
It was good to see Rustam Gelmanov in great form again.
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I thought Sean was absolutely terrible, nearly always had to be prompted, didn't have much to say when he spoke, and way too many uncomfortable silences between them. The other guy was token.
I'm genuinely surprised a few people said it was good.
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I think it was more that Sean was actually watching the comp, hence having to be prompted. He seems like quite a stats geek too which was quite interesting at times. Also interesting having such a long-term competitor in the booth, little things like the downward jump being technically illegal (to set rather than do, a point the other commentator missed) and he knew his history too.
I felt a little bit sorry for the commentators in that they suddenly had a 4-hour slot, not a 2-hour slot with half-as-much going on as usual, so a lot more air time to fill, and due to the time difference I don't think there was much social media going on for them to commentate on.
I was a bit torn on the women-then-men format. Plus side, you saw all the action, flipside it felt a bit stale at times and made for a long watch (two sittings for us).
No-one mentioned Fanny's W3 "attempt" - fall off, stand around for 3 more minutes, fall off straight away. Had she decided she couldn't do it so was buying Melissa some more time to recover, or just simply underestimated it? Seemed a bit odd.
Is Akiyo officially injured, or just off the boil? Would be nice for Shauna to have some competition... The men's is shaping up to be very interesting.
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She dis seem to spend a lot of time fannying about without actually trying the problem, then pulled on last second. Maybe it was to give MlN more time.
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Really dislike the separate women / men format, took way to long, diluted the atmosphere, and with only two climbers even half decent camera work and production should enable virtually all the action to be caught.
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Melissa Le Neve was not miles off topping the problems she didn't do.
It was good to see Rustam Gelmanov in great form again.
Rustam was fucking great.
Agree re Melissa, think she was closer to Shauna than the results show. With this plus Janja and the good yanks not being there, I'm not sure Shauna's as far out in front as seems to be being said.
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Good round up with some interesting thoughts from onbouldering:
http://onbouldering.com/kazo-aftermath/
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Having watched bits of Kazo on youtube, my son just announced that Innsbruck on 21st May would be an acceptable option for his birthday day out. YYFY. Tickets booked.
Shauna better still be on form, he has plans for a large banner.
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Good stuff! :2thumbsup:
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Having watched bits of Kazo on youtube, my son just announced that Innsbruck on 21st May would be an acceptable option for his birthday day out. YYFY. Tickets booked.
Shauna better still be on form, he has plans for a large banner.
Does it have a heart on it? [emoji12]
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Having watched bits of Kazo on youtube, my son just announced that Innsbruck on 21st May would be an acceptable option for his birthday day out. YYFY. Tickets booked.
Shauna better still be on form, he has plans for a large banner.
Does it have a heart on it? [emoji12]
I am not falling for your transparent attempt to trick me into saying "it would if I was designing it. phwoar. :wub: :wub: :wub: etc".
No, apparently.
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Pooch is still recovering from knee injury. From the dodgy translation on Facebook it seems Akiyo just had a bad round.
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...it seems Akiyo just had a bad round.
Rounds - didn't make finals last week either. Wonder if OnBouldering is correct that it was home-crowd nerves?
This weekend we shall see I guess
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Qualis tonight/tomorrow morning.
02:45 - 06:30 men
08:00 - 11:00 women
Semis tomorrow night
02:30 - 04:30
Finals Sunday night
10:00 - 11:30
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Finals Sunday night day
10:00 - 11:30
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oops! cheers.
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Just looked at the app for qualification results. Is Tyler the only GB man competing in China?
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What app are you using?
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From ifsc Twitter: Unfortunately the Chinese connection doesn't allow us to do it. We prefer to offer you replays, directly after the competition
That's embarrassing! The organisers spend all that money promoting the province and all we'll do is skip through that first 30 minutes of crap straight into the action.
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Some might say perhaps it'd be better to have the comps somewhere there is actually competitive athletes and local interest....
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What a joke. Its not like the poor internet is a surprise or anything, this happened last year as well IIRC.
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What app are you using?
It's the IFSC bouldering one, I think it has some random year in the name but it seems to work!
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So, Leah just tweeted a result sheet with her in 7th, was that semis or quals?
('Cos the IFSC site has bugger all info at 18:20 bst...).
I guess Quals from posts above, but not 100% sure.
I rarely know what day it is...
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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That was the qualifiers.
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https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.ifsc.boulder14&hl=en_GB
this is the app.
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So, Leah just tweeted a result sheet with her in 7th, was that semis or quals?
('Cos the IFSC site has bugger all info at 18:20 bst...).
I guess Quals from posts above, but not 100% sure.
I rarely know what day it is...
Results of qualis have been up since the morning: women's (http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition#!comp=1640&cat=5&route=0), men's (http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition#!comp=1640&cat=6)
Still no sign of any video anywhere though.
Wankers.
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there's a couple of bits on FB - Onbouldering put a problem up and shauna posted something I think.
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Semis results:
Shauna 1st
Michaela 10th
Leah 17th
Tyler 15th
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Melissa out
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Jongwon Chon and Jan Hojer make their first final of the season too.
edit - in fact only three survivors from Japan finals: Kokoro Fujii, Shauna, and Miho.
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Highlights video os the Qualification round is up, a mere 24 hours late and after the semis are finished. Spoilers much?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1yxzgRx8qvo&feature=youtu.be&a&pxtry=3
So how much is the city of Chongqing paying the IFSC to host an event in a place where there no credible local contenders, the athletes have to breathe choking smog, and what's happening in a supposedly "world class" sporting event has to be kept secret from the world?
Fucking disgrace.
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Next year the ifsc have asked North Korea, Eritrea and Zimbabwe to be the 3 sole hosting countries. They will not even publish any results till 1 calendar month after the final event.
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Highlights ... 90s much of which is crowd pictures. Pathetic.
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Shauna wins again. 3 out of 3, well 4 out of 4 if you include Munich the last WC of 2015.
And she stretches her lead as Melissa missed out on the final, finishing 7th.
No webcast due to the Great Firewall of China but they will get replays up as soon as they can.
Michaela 10th, Tyler 15th and Leah 17th.
:2thumbsup:
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No webcast due to the Great Firewall of China but they will get replays up as soon as they can.
Does that mean another 24 hours to bring out another piece of complete crap as for the Qualis?
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I think it means replays of the whole semis and finals. Plus the small 'highlights' thing (ie who got on the podium rather than the actual highlights).
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Can anyone fill me in on the schedule for the bouldering World Cup? Does it last all summer? I may just be thick, but he IFSC website is not clear at all!
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Not the best layout but looks like 4 more rounds, seems a bit daft having 5 in 5 weeks then the final 2 rounds 2 months apart
https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/component/ifsc/?year=2016&filter=world_cups
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Shuana just won(?) 3tops, the same as Akyio, but fewer attempts.
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2 weeks time they are in Navi Mumbai (India), then 2 weeks after they are in Innsbruck, then 2 weeks (or mayve 3) they are off to Vail in Colorado. Then a couple of months off until Munich in August. Then 3 weeks off until the World Champs in Paris.
In the mean time the Lead World Cups start in Chaomix in July
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Ha! I posted that on Haldon hill an hour ago, I thought it had vanished into the ether...
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Not the best layout but looks like 4 more rounds, seems a bit daft having 5 in 5 weeks then the final 2 rounds 2 months apart
5 in 6 weeks, there is next weekend off ;)
The IFSC system is that organisers apply for their preferred dates and then there might be a bit of to-ing and fro-ing if there are clashes . But if the organiser says that it must be a certain date then the IFSC doesn't have much leverage to get them to move, especially among the more established events.
Eg 1) Vail is attached to the Mountain Games in Vail, a multi million dollar event of which we are a small (but significant) pat. The date is cast in stone.
Eg 2) Chamonix is always just before Bastille Day.
Other factors come into play eg weather - as we found out last year in Chongqing you don't want to be there in June, Shauna said it was 30 there this year but last year it was closer to 40.
And then other factors such as the availability of the venue come into play eg Munich in the Olympic Stadium. This is THE iconic venue that we have and as such gets a lot of leeway.
Plus having Munich 3 weeks before the Worlds works for a lot of reasons. But Munich should be earlier if there is no Worlds straight after
Plus Toronto was the week before Vail but unfortunately got cancelled otherwise it was a nice little trip to N America.
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Is Mumbai still on then? Only 26 men and 25 women registered so far. Looks like the French team not going. Japanese and Iranian teams make up almost half the competitors. No Indians on the start list yet. What a load of shit.
The IFSC appear pretty much incompetent from the outside. If I was a competitor I'd be pretty fucked off with the whole business, it's not like there's any significant money in it, how are they justifying making people fly halfway round the world twice! (worse for the Japanese and Koreans). Put the comps in places where no one gives a fuck, and you can't even get a live broadcast to those who do! (commentated on by someone who doesn't know what a drop knee is).
The semis and finals are up on YouTube now but frankly I've not been arsed to watch them.
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I'm not gonna watch them either, nor am I gonna watch the Indian one. N if the one after that is as bad as the last one I won't be watching again.
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I watched it....if you thought the last one was soulless :whistle:
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I watched it....if you thought the last one was soulless :whistle:
I'd have to agree. I'm not sure if it was the route-setting or the fact I already knew the outcome but it didn't hold my interest beyond the last problem.
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If you don't want to watch the entire replay, Shauna has posted a short video on her FB page of her doing the final boulders. Also it's filmed by Leah so no dodgy camera cut aways mid-crux.
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I tried to avoid finding out the results, but failed. I checked the IFSC website to see if the video was up but instead got THE WINNER IS SHAUNA! Great. Thanks for ruining the comp for me. It's just not that fun watching a competition with the outcome already decided.
I reckon the only way delayed videos can work is if the results are secret until the vids are online.
I watched it anyway, but I can understand why lots of people wouldn't bother.
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If you don't want to watch the entire replay, Shauna has posted a short video on her FB page of her doing the final boulders. Also it's filmed by Leah so no dodgy camera cut aways mid-crux.
Excellent win for Shauna, really psyched for her, etc.
But I'm so fucking bored of volumes. Jesusfuckingchrist. Running on volumes, jumping on volumes, mantling on volumes, pressing out volumes.
Stick three crimps in a roof for once for fuck's sake!
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I don't mind watching people try horrendous volume run/jump/squeeze/invert/mantle nonsense in world cups, the issue is that route setters at local walls then think "that looks fun" and set terrible versions of them which offer no relationship to training for real rock.
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Training for real rock? What do you mean??
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I know i don't know why people still think that indoor climbing is mimicking real rock? If that was the case bendcrete would still be king and people would be complaining that the rough texture hurt their hands
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I'd like it to at least bear some semblance to actual climbing so I can get something useful out of an indoor session! I realise I'm in the minority there though.
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Competitive sport should be watched live or not at all. How many football fans watch the replay of a match they missed two weeks after the match?
If IFSC wants to build an audience for the bouldering world cup, it must make sure that every event is live broad cast. Simple.
The Chongqing comp was great, (mostly) excellent and spectacular problems that split the field for both men and women. But anyone watching a replay when the outcome is known is a sad figure.
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I would have liked to see W3 from the qualis, given that only two people did it and neither of them was Shauna. But Chinese state secret, apparently.
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I've emailed Julian Assange, to see if he's got it
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For balance and the view from the giddy depths of punterdom....
Mrs.S insisted on a news blackout over the weekend which was a good call.We watched the semis yesterday afternoon and the finals in the evening on you tube.Really enjoyed it.
Apart from the venue/background shots which looked horrific,like something out of Judge Dredd.
The highlight for us was Shauna on W4 in the semis :jaw:
As for soulless,maybe for those with a soul but fortunately no-one in this household suffers from such a burden.
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Karoline's shorts are the clear winner.
The first problem was not the most engaging start to a contest...
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Karoline's shorts are the clear winner.
The first problem was not the most engaging start to a contest...
I thought I was just being a bit grumpy with regards to the running-start type problems (IMO there are far too many). I can see the thinking behind it of creating not only a challenge but a spectacle (I'm thinking CWIF here) for the audience but when they don't work, or they're too easy it makes for dull viewing.
ps - I'm aware setting these kind of comps is far from easy or low-stress!
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Running on matting looks daft too.
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Hmmm. I'd (again) put myself in social media purgatory to avoid the results, downloaded the finals at lunchtime (1080p too!) And just finished watching them.
Very close comp, apart from W1 they were all really interesting problems, pretty decent camera work (nothing crucial was missed) and Kruder was a good co-commentator.
But.
I dunno, it just lacked atmosphere. Not sure if it's the venue, the crowd, the production, the commentary...? It just didn't draw me in? But nor did the last two either and it's hard to say why...
I think it's frustrating that it can be such a great sorry to watch, with physical and mental battles, and it's such a shame when this isn't conveyed. Will it just take over-caffeinated sugary drink company to plough in loads of cash to bring the whole thing up to the level it deserves? Any idea on a ballpark figure to stage the entire season?
Regarding volumes, I wonder whether this is partly for viewer's (live and streamed) benefit, as a tiny crimp can't be seen that well?
Anyway, yay Shauna! Hopefully Akiyo has returned to form.
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Regarding volumes, I wonder whether this is partly for viewer's (live and streamed) benefit, as a tiny crimp can't be seen that well?
It's clearly important that the problems look impressive and intriguing, which a blank wall with a scattering of barely visible crimps doesn't.
Otoh running starts are ridiculous nonsense and should be banned.
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I dunno, it just lacked atmosphere. Not sure if it's the venue, the crowd, the production, the commentary...? It just didn't draw me in? But nor did the last two either and it's hard to say why...
I think commentary is really important. I like watching snooker and cricket occasionally, both can be pretty slow going at times but I think I would find them pretty unbearable without high quality commentary.
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I'm with Sherlock on this. Also managed to avoid the result and watched semis and finals last night. Thought they were great. Really strong Japanese team at the moment. Agreed that Shauna on W4 in the semis was the highlight.
It does seem odd that the comps are spread out for so long over the year, must be hard to stay on form.
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i also did not see the results (watched the video on the ifsc youtube channel, where there are no clues as to who won), and thought the comp was rather good. except for the run and jumps.
almost all problems were do-able with a wide range of athleticism, tension, sketchy slopers and pure upper body power.
as for the commentary, it was great that Jerney Kruder was there, because when the commentator fills two hours by himself i start pulling my hair out in clumps.
this comp he mentioned the crowds reaction a few times, indicating that there was a crowd and that they were engaged, but i mistrust every single word he says.
but Jerney was engaged and so was i
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Mumbai Start List:
http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition/calendar#!type=starters&comp=1633
Not final at time of writing though.
No Tyler this round, VERY strong (and big) Japanese team.
No Indian competitors.
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The rankings up, not sure how quickly after each event they are updated though.
Men: http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition#!type=ranking&cat=ICC_MB&cup=16_WC
Women: http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition#!type=ranking&cat=ICC_FB&cup=16_WC
Team: http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition#!type=nat_team_ranking&cup=16_wc&cat=5,6
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Mumbai Start List:
http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition/calendar#!type=starters&comp=1633
Not final at time of writing though.
No Tyler this round, VERY strong (and big) Japanese team.
No Indian competitors.
No Micheala either.
31 women, 35 men
No Indians (4 nepalese though)
Without the Japanese team you'd hardly need a qualifying round.
What a fucking waste of time, money, CO2.
IFSC should be ashamed.
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Finally watched all of the previous finals video. It was okay but not as good as Kazo or the previous one - not as good footage, and too many volume problems especially given the apparent heat. The running jump ones were obviously frustrating the boulderers who just wanted to, well, boulder. OTOH M2 was pretty funny to watch the finish and there were a few spectacular moments.
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I'm with Duma that holding so many of these comps in boiling hot countries with no local bouldering scene is a complete farce.
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Cool to see 4 Nepalese in there :2thumbsup:
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IFSC should be ashamed.
I was pretty much of that opinion too until Graeme pointed out, either here or on the other channel, that the IFSC doesn't exactly have potential host cities queuing up. Beggars can't be choosers.
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There's too many rounds this year as it is.
You could drop india and the second china round and still have a decent calendar.
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No Indian competitors.
Deadline for registration is midnight CET tonight so I would expect Indians to be added sometime today.
There will definitely be at least one (Prerna), she spent 3 months in Sheffield training here.
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There's too many rounds this year as it is.
You could drop india and the second china round and still have a decent calendar.
What second China round?
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Exactly - Even stranger considering the strong competing nationalities; No French venue this year, no Russian venue (ever? Visa's too hard?), no GB world-cup round, ,Czech, Slovenia - all put in good teams but don't host events.
Also no Spanish venue, and it occurs to me not many competing Spanish boulderers - why is that?
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Then they should be proactive to find somewhere worth hosting, or cut the World Cup or something. What a joke of a venue. Holding it in a country that sends no climbers, that most of the top people won't go to is no World Cup! I don't mean to sound offensive but she probably climbs about 6a, token.
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The last sentence was in reply to Graham
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Exactly - Even stranger considering the strong competing nationalities; No French venue this year, no Russian venue (ever? Visa's too hard?), no GB world-cup round, ,Czech, Slovenia - all put in good teams but don't host events.
Also no Spanish venue, and it occurs to me not many competing Spanish boulderers - why is that?
No French venue, well no apart from the World Champs in Paris which will cost not far off 2 million Euro.
Maybe ask the BMC why there is no GB round ;)
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The last sentence was in reply to Graham
Who is Graham?
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However, this (the IFSC's host selection) looks to be a pretty good tactic for "spreading the word", as it were and might pay off in overall development of the sport long term.
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No French venue, well no apart from the World Champs in Paris which will cost not far off 2 million Euro.
True. but the World Champs isn't a World Cup round... they've had Lavalle the last few years, just wondered why the switch given the French generally have a very good team. Are the costs roughly the same so the Champs is better vfm?
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Your memory ain't so good ;)
In recent years they have had Millau in 2013 and Laval in 2014. They don't really do BWC's very often but do Chamonix and Briancon every year.
This is because the French work the same as most federations and rely on local organisers to come forward and provide the funding and man power and then the FFME come in and fulfill what ever it is that the national federation is required to do (a long list!).
This is the model for most countries except Germany where the WC is totally run by the DAV (no coincidence that the DAV is headquartered in Munich!). Even the events in Austria are pretty much run by the local organisers although the fact that the OEWK is headquartered in Inssbruck means there is a lot of cooperation.
Events in Spain were always organised/funded by Top 30 but now that they are part of Entre Prise it is hard to see another event in Spain
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The costs for the Worlds in Paris are massive due to it being held in Bercy (think French version of Earls Court).
The costs of the World's in Munich weren't too dissimilar from a WC as the venue and most other things were the same.
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Thanks as always for the insider info - Spain in particular
Lavalle / Millau / Laval - It's all France innit ;)
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There's too many rounds this year as it is.
You could drop india and the second china round and still have a decent calendar.
But then the IFSC wouldn't be able to wine, dine and bribe officials for Olympic votes ;)
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plenty of Indian competetors on the list now - both men and women
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Rather than moan about it being held somewhere warm, can we please get on to your local BMC activist and point out that the world champion elect gets fuck all apart from abuse about her shorts and surely we should be doing more to support competition climbing in this country, not worrying about climbing being more popular and thus not being able to get on Christmas Crack in June or "novices" falling off Wrinkle.
Props to India for at least having the balls to try to put on a show I say. Bravo, bravo. Maybe it'll be shit. But it'll be a lot less shit than watching tumbleweed blow across the deserted plains of British leadership in modern climbing. Now, excuse me, I'm off to read Kenton Cool's book about how fucking amazing he is at walking uphill again.
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My bad Graeme brain freeze ::)
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Maybe ask the BMC why there is no GB round ;)
Hassled by the magic of Twitter.
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I think they'll take note
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I think they'll take note
I got a response the other day from the DVLA!
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What "Here's your new licence Mr Bennett, nicely full of points, good luck with the VRS lolz"??
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What "Here's your new licence Mr Bennett, nicely full of points, good luck with the VRS lolz"??
More along the lines of "thank you for reporting the red Audi A3 with painted war figures on the dashboard for having no car tax." ;)
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LOL. You got me worried there. End of June as it happens. Maybe I should get something on the dashboard....hmmmm....
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Was listening to Jimmy Webb on The Ledge podcast, apropos of which a few thoughts about men's and women's competition bouldering and why the latter is more interesting.
Trying for the sake of argument to leave aside the :wub: factor.
The women have had a fairly stable group of top competitors for a few seasons so it's been possible to follow people's rise and fall. Seeing Jule Wurm finally win a major championship in front of her home crowd was great, as is the fact that the right person is now very much on the rise, having had a couple of promising but frustrating seasons beforehand.
Compare and contrast the men's this year, where some random bloke you've vaguely heard of won last week, some other random bloke you've vaguely heard of wins this week, repeat until August.
But also - circling back round to the Jimmy Webb reference - in the women's, the top competition boulderers are for the most part also the top actual boulderers. Whereas in the men's there's almost no overlap these days, with the limited exception of Daniel Woods usually but not always winning the US Nationals.
Discuss. Or not.
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Spliff, innit.
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Was listening to Jimmy Webb on The Ledge podcast, apropos of which a few thoughts about men's and women's competition bouldering and why the latter is more interesting.
Trying for the sake of argument to leave aside the :wub: factor.
The women have had a fairly stable group of top competitors for a few seasons so it's been possible to follow people's rise and fall. Seeing Jule Wurm finally win a major championship in front of her home crowd was great, as is the fact that the right person is now very much on the rise, having had a couple of promising but frustrating seasons beforehand.
Compare and contrast the men's this year, where some random bloke you've vaguely heard of won last week, some other random bloke you've vaguely heard of wins this week, repeat until August.
But also - circling back round to the Jimmy Webb reference - in the women's, the top competition boulderers are for the most part also the top actual boulderers. Whereas in the men's there's almost no overlap these days, with the limited exception of Daniel Woods usually but not always winning the US Nationals.
Discuss. Or not.
Go on then. Although not a boulderer Ondrawad had a pop a couple of years ago and did ok. He didn't need to do them as his reputation was already beyond reproach but did them anyway having more to loose than gain. Unlike everyone else though he was already Ondra so didn't need to prove he was as good as himself. The likes of Webbs and Woods, if they entered the IFSC, could be shown up to be dissimilar to the ability of Webbs(TM) and Woods(TM). Their sponsors may not like that. Why put yourself in a position where you could potentially damage your marketability? Cynical perhaps but understandable. I assuming that there is less money in sponsorship for the top women boulders who exclusively boulder out of doors so the comp circuit is a win win for them. This isn't new though as LeGrande and Hirayama had the comp circuit to themselves in the '90s while everyone else was messing about on rock.
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Just glanced at the in progress men's qualification results. It looks like you needed to climb all five boulders to make it through to semis. Does this mean the setting is too easy? Were they local setters or do the IFSC use a similar group of people for all comps?
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It's often a combination. The main route setters are accredited IFSC Chief route setters that are shipped in, but if the locals can provide some of their own setters, then they are used also for some of the work.
Some times with the comps, the difference can be as much the fact that the weather is different than expected to when the problems were set.
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Some times with the comps, the difference can be as much the fact that the weather is different than expected to when the problems were set.
This is definitely true sometimes but unlikely in Mumbai as it is inside with air con. I guess the setters just undercooked it a bit.
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Just glanced at the in progress men's qualification results. It looks like you needed to climb all five boulders to make it through to semis. Does this mean the setting is too easy? Were they local setters or do the IFSC use a similar group of people for all comps?
Sean Mccoll didn't seem too happy about the qualifiers
"IMO 4 boulders were much too easy with one hard blind jump boulder, which if you were tall, you could jump straight to the jug. Sooooooo..... basically it was a qualification on one boulder, one move, one jump. If you didn't do that one move, you could flash the other 4 and you'd be out of semi finals!"
source: https://www.instagram.com/p/BFYcdK7t9mu/?taken-by=mccollsean
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but at least most of the local guys topped out on something
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interesting to see a few Iranian chaps in there as well
although their team website looks a bit odd - it appears to be Japanese spam
http://www.iranmountfed.com/
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Discuss. Or not.
The top male competitors either are on par with the world's best when they visit the great outdoors (Hojer, Ondra, Schubert, etc) or would be on par with the world's best after a few months of getting used to the new environment I'm sure. I agree that it would be more interesting if there were fewer strong competitors.
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Maybe someone needs to step up and put themselves ahead of the rest?
Easier said than done perhaps... but I do remember Ondra coming to events a few years ago and just demolishing it - so it's definitely possible.
Equally, perhaps the routesetting could be used to aid in this.
It's nice seeing a bunch of different styles and testing the competitors on a range of holds and movement types.
But if we think that it is, on the whole, negative for the sport to have a very random looking podium, then perhaps keeping some consistency of style (and perhaps favouring a few competitors over the rest) might not be the worst thing in the world?
It might also favour TV viewing, with (for example) larger dynamic moves being a bit more marketable than ticky tacky technical nonsense that doesn't translate well? This may tend to favour Hojer, Fischuber style climbers rather than the finger strength flexi guys from Russia and Japan...but there you go.
FWIW, I have found the Men's event far less interesting the last few years since Kili/Sharafutdinov/Hori stopped winning everything in the Men's - and while it might not being such a great 'overall' test of climbing, I'd 'think' I would prefer a good show/storyline to seeing the 'best' climber top out on some dodgy problems.
I may also be completely full of :shit: since I haven't watched a lot of the comps this year, but if they want me to do that, they'll have to hire a better commentator.
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Have come to the conclusion that McColl is a wanker generally, but am also calling horse shit on the instahelm post as Hojer (tall) did not flash problem 2 yet Bonder (short) did. Sour grapes IMHO...
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Mccoll may well masturbate but he is completely right
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Mccoll may well masturbate but he is completely right
After the way he behaved in the qualifiers in fiera, it's about time he got shut down :)
Whilst be may well be correct that it sucks, his comments highlight more about him than the comp. Boo fucking hoo, there was a problem that didn't suit him and he couldn't make up for it on the others, because too many other competitors did those ones. That's comps for ya, just like falling off a traverse section low down on problem 2 at fiera, looking at the judge to see if he has noticed that both feet are back on the mat ( he hadn't ) allowing the competitor to step back on 4 moves into the problem and top it, thus qualifying for the semis, is also a fine example of comps and the sort of shit certain people like getting away with. I'm not bitter. I wilted on the last move on problem 2 at fiera after several failed attempts (i lost body tension, dabbed on the move Sean did and stepped off), where if I had flashed it, I would have qualified for the semis.
Hahahahahahaha
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Mccoll may well masturbate but he is completely right
After the way he behaved in the qualifiers in fiera, it's about time he got shut down :)
Refresh my memory?
Edit: oh you did
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Mccoll may well masturbate but he is completely right
After the way he behaved in the qualifiers in fiera, it's about time he got shut down :)
Refresh my memory?
Edit: oh you did
I've just checked the results and I exaggerated, he would have got two tops in three attempts ( not one top as I stated) and would have finished 21st, rather than going on through the semis and finals and finishing 3rd.
http://www.digitalrock.de/egroupware/ranking/sitemgr/digitalrock/eliste.html#!comp=1097&cat=6
I could not have qualified, even if I cheated on problem 2, I would have been 22nd :D
Problem 2 had a difficult start traversing from the right arete to the left arete with the crux being cutting loose when the left arete was gained so that you could heelhook by your left hand. This is where Sean walked across the mats ( I'm not exaggerating, his hands were still on the handholds to his credit) to get his left heel up and continue onwards.
I've never seen a dab like it. In fact the word dab is just insufficient in its capacity to be able to encompass the sheer amount of gall involved
Edit: I know I did, but thought I may as well expand
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_k63HhNTUSw
Onbouldering stitched this up from instagram clips
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No ones saying he can't do Hubble I'm saying he's right with what he said about the problems
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You may say he's right Dense but as the very wise Ste Graham said on Twitter:
https://twitter.com/sxrxg/status/731543677278011392?s=09
Also, are the probs on the hard side for the semis?
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Shauna's missed the cut :o
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Yeah, seemed below par!
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thought I was watching the last comp - W4 looks very familiar
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Finals are live now and mens 1 looks brutal
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00nLWbGQJks (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00nLWbGQJks)
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Fatneck what do you mean wise? That's almost exactly what mccoll said! They may as well not have had the 4 easy problems and just said here's a jump if you do it you're going through
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I thought that was a pretty good comp, good separation of the climbers and some interesting problems. Boscoe's grip of the rules leaves a little to be desired though..
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Also thought it was good.
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Fatneck what do you mean wise? That's almost exactly what mccoll said! They may as well not have had the 4 easy problems and just said here's a jump if you do it you're going through
Hi Lee, basically I'm a cock and obviously still suffering the ignominy of being neutered... :hug:
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Oh cum on ;)
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http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=70457
Does Rubtsov have a tiny head, or is it just far away?
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Atmosphere-wise, I thought it was the best yet; good crowd, lighting, an excited co-commentator.
The Women's was let down by poor setting IMO - 6 tops out of 24 possible is pretty low. Looking at the semis and quali results seemed they hadn't quite judged the level right with either a flash-fest or too hard.
The Men's, felt for Rustam who nearly got M1 and and M3 and his final position didn't show this - but it was a closely fought battle
Enough of the run-and-jumps - just seems like a lazy way to split the competitors on attempts. This one in particular was worse in that once you'd made the bonus, the top was a given.
But yeah, good round :)
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My dislike for "run-n-jumps" was bad enough just looking at them and imagining having to do them.
Now my boulder gym is setting them more and more.
I feel like a proper angry old man (wasn't there an emoticon for that), but if I wanted to do parkour I would not pay for a boulder gym.
Also Rubtsov seemed very annoyed by the run and jump in the Mumbai final
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My dislike for "run-n-jumps" was bad enough just looking at them and imagining having to do them.
Now my boulder gym is setting them more and more.
I feel like a proper angry old man (wasn't there an emoticon for that), but if I wanted to do parkour I would not pay for a boulder gym.
Also Rubtsov seemed very annoyed by the run and jump in the Mumbai final
We are constantly being requested to set more Parkour style problems.
It's what the majority want, Dynos and jumps; suddenly everyone's a Ninja.
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Tell 'em to f*ck off, then cover the walls with tiny scrittly crimps.
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I am shit at parkour style problems, not good at dynos either but hey...they are FUN!!!
That said i believe one of the features of a good gym is offering balanced circuits...a bit of everything, much like a good comp round.
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I feel like a proper angry old man (wasn't there an emoticon for that), but if I wanted to do parkour I would not pay for a boulder gym.
Hey, I'm the angry old man in the village! (signature is a gif)
The Building One version of The Arch in London had parkour circuits when it first opened. Fred Stone is an astute chap and I'm sure it's in response to demand, the place is reportedly rammed. I think they are crap (and not just because I'm rubbish at them) and I've not been back.
Running and jumping is eye catching and attractive to non-specialists so I'm sure there will be much more setting like this if the IFSC and interested parties want mainstream attention and money.
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I feel like a proper angry old man (wasn't there an emoticon for that), but if I wanted to do parkour I would not pay for a boulder gym.
Hey, I'm the angry old man in the village! (signature is a gif)
The Building One version of The Arch in London had parkour circuits when it first opened. Fred Stone is an astute chap and I'm sure it's in response to demand, the place is reportedly rammed. I think they are crap (and not just because I'm rubbish at them) and I've not
They've stopped setting them as parkour now as there were a few broken legs I think. Now just normal [emoji106]
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I don't want my wall's setter who's on the French team getting any more of a fondness for running and jumping. if only they appreciated how little I want to sprain an ankle climbing indoors.
Got to be a market for an old folks climbing wall made of bendcrete, crimps,and bits of wood, where all the problems are solved statically and dynos are banned.
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Enough of the run-and-jumps - just seems like a lazy way to split the competitors on attempts. This one in particular was worse in that once you'd made the bonus, the top was a given.
As confirmed by the guest commentator route setter, it seems the prevailing opinion is that running and dyno problems are a good way to split the competitors.
From the audience's perspective, yes it may be an effective way of doing it, but it's not always a good way of doing it. We want to see people separated by climbing ability, not the roll of a dice on an easy but low percentage move.
Which doesn't mean they shouldn't set them ever, just that their frequency seems a little high sometimes.
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I feel like a proper angry old man (wasn't there an emoticon for that), but if I wanted to do parkour I would not pay for a boulder gym.
Hey, I'm the angry old man in the village! (signature is a gif)
The Building One version of The Arch in London had parkour circuits when it first opened. Fred Stone is an astute chap and I'm sure it's in response to demand, the place is reportedly rammed. I think they are crap (and not just because I'm rubbish at them) and I've not
They've stopped setting them as parkour now as there were a few broken legs I think. Now just normal [emoji106]
I'm not surprised if they've gone, I remember seeing the original video and thinking that it was going to lead to a lot of people hurting themselves. Specifically the wall to wall jumps they set, massive potential for awkward twisting/spinning/flailing falls.
I did quite a lot of parkour before I climbed and you either need a solidish landing so that you're under no illusions of the consequences of failure or a foam pit which will actually protect against the kind of falls you can take when those sort of moves go wrong. People, in particular newer climbers have way too much faith in indoor climbing wall mats. For parkour falls they have enough give to often make twisting/sideways forces worse but nowhere near enough to actually dissipate the force safely like a foam pit. On a similar note, massive sideways jumps at the tops of problems (this isn't with particular reference to BWC setting) are also a terrible idea that shouldn't be allowed to spread.
So yeah, despite the parkour background I'd actually rather that we kept the parkour movements out of climbing. It's fine to take some inspiration now and then but climbing walls really aren't set up for parkour and your average participant isn't very aware of the different risks associated with the movements. And back on topic, with regards to the BWC, I find it very disappointing when there's a running jump that actually decides the outcome.
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As confirmed by the guest commentator route setter, it seems the prevailing opinion is that running and dyno problems are a good way to split the competitors.
They work for this purpose, but not sure I'd go as far as "good". Any low percentage move would do. I'd rather a double-dyno/campus over a run-and-jump because it's at least more "climby".
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off-width or flared cracks might be another way to split the field
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Or a long problem where they have to continually hold their breath whilst uttering the word "kabaddi".
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old school brick edge mantles
yeah, that'll sort the wheat from the chaff
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I did like the inclusion of the hand-jam on M1,
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Back & foot v-chimneys. Painted gloss.
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there was some easy jamming at FBO16 - it was interesting to see some very stylish laybacking to avoid it
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There are other sports, where the style or type of course can favour one strength over another - I'm thinking of...
Downhill ski-ing
Cycling (BMX, MTB, road..)
(there are probably others)...
Given the long standing nature of many of these sports (esp ski-ing) there must be some regulations/standardisation of what/how the course is set? Maybe the IFSC people could look/learn from that?
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I love cracks and i've even set an inverted hand+foot jam at a contest recently, but i don't think they are particularly low percentage when you are used to them. They work because they are not a major trend...
Odd flared squeeze/OW/palming and pushing things without a defined beta have more chances in This regard,imho. And weren't they popular a few years ago????
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There are other sports, where the style or type of course can favour one strength over another - I'm thinking of...
Downhill ski-ing
Cycling (BMX, MTB, road..)
(there are probably others)...
Just about everything on a non-standardised playing field? There have recently been some examples of poorly prepared pitches in cricket internationals where they gave one team a bigger advantage. I think that given the wealth of experience in many of these sports though, there is a general concensus on what good looks like by now.
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Just booked the hotel in Innsbruck for me & the lad at the weekend. :dance1:
Hoping the forecast 25 degrees will be bit more amenable for Shauna.
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I love cracks and i've even set an inverted hand+foot jam at a contest recently, but i don't think they are particularly low percentage when you are used to them.
I really enjoyed the one at the CWIF
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Best final so far this year. At least for the men. The Fuji/Narasaki showdown was great.
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Is that a mountain range?
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Are there two separate sets of boulders for each of the two qualification rounds? As it seems like one set in Innsbruck is significantly harder than the other? Tyler with t45 5b6 doesn't look like he's making it through to semis with competitors with 3 tops making it through in the other round?
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yes.
meanwhile Nathan Philips is having a blinder, and Barrans has qualified too?
http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition#!comp=1637&cat=6
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2 separate sets of boulders? Just when you thought it couldn't get anymore farcical. Never mind at least it'll be a good final. Although just thought will the finalists be climbing the same boulders or will they each have 4 different problems to try?
Is that how you spell separate? I'm losing it thanks to the ifsc :-\
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Yeah blame the IFSC.
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Looks like some big names have missed out on the semis: Tyler, Rustam, Jakob, Jan.
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Looks like some big names have missed out on the semis: Tyler, Rustam, Jakob, Jan.
Is one of the qualification groups more full of stronger climbers than the other?
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Fairly normal to have two different sets of boulders in qualis?
Is one of the qualification groups more full of stronger climbers than the other?
They are seperated evenly by ranking aren't they?
Of the bigger names who failed to make semis...
Jan, Tyler, Rustam in quali 1
Jorg, Jeremy, Jakob in quali 2
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well done nathan :clap2: :strongbench:
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2 separate sets of boulders? Just when you thought it couldn't get anymore farcical.
It's pretty common in comps with lots of people Dense.
Of course it wouldn't be the worst idea if the two sets were at least roughly the same difficulty, which doesn't quite seem to have worked here.
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People listen to kylie, doesn't make it right
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Looks like some big names have missed out on the semis: Tyler, Rustam, Jakob, Jan.
Is one of the qualification groups more full of stronger climbers than the other?
Competitors in Group 1 = ranked 1, 4, 5, 8, 9 etc
Competitors in Group 2 = ranked 2, 3, 6, 7 etc
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So...
Group 1 = 1st, +3, +1, +3, +1
Group 2 = 2nd, +1, +3, +1, +3
I'm sure there's a reason I'm not aware of, but why not just split into odd and even numbers?
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that's just what they'd expect you to do
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Mumbai was decent, some pretty cool climbing. M1 was a great gimmick problem, M2 was a terrible gimmick problem. Women's generally looked proper good but maybe a bit hard? Co-commentator was good. Event seemed surprisingly perky given the location - credit where it's due they did a good job despite the heat.
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So...
Group 1 = 1st, +3, +1, +3, +1
Group 2 = 2nd, +1, +3, +1, +3
I'm sure there's a reason I'm not aware of, but why not just split into odd and even numbers?
Look at the sum of the rankings and you will see that it evens out.
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Edit: ah, I see what you're getting at - the odd and even numbers split doesn't add up to equally weighted groups.
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that's just what they'd expect you to do
Expect the unexpected.
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that's just what they'd expect you to do
Expect the unexpected.
Nobody expects the Spanish inquisition
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Their chief weapons are surprise and fear
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And "MASSIVE COCK or something".
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Good mix of Women through to the next round. Megan and Janja are back in the fray
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In the hall with M jnr, having a good close look at the blocs before kick off. They look a lot harder than they do in the telly :o
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Cool!
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Looking good, hope you enjoy Muenchener. Go Dimitrii, just pissed M4! Decent commentary today, interesting discussion on the different support levels for the different teams, and the scheduling. Interesting that it's on national TV in Austria too.
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Shauna took 4 on w1, she's going to need 4 tops
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Austrian commentator just said fuck on live TV wrt w's semi "fuck it's exciting"
He's not wrong
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If Shauna flashes W4 she's tied with Anna in semis and qualis, tied in 6th. Who goes through?
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Finals UK time? Also can we have more swearing on the finals commentary plz.
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Shauna's in the finals with a flash on W4
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Do we have 7 girls then?
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Well thank Christ for that.
Shauna & Anna both through says commentator here.
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Not sure - the commentators just because they are tied - they both go into the final.
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Shauna/Anna 4t8 4b8 in semis, 5t5 5b5 in qualis
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Scrap that just heard the commentators
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Really enjoyed those semi finals - pretty exciting on W4.
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My heart was in my mouth when Shauna popped for the last hold! Shame the commentators seemed so clueless about the maths of it, it was so exciting!
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Gutting for Dave.
If he holds this, he makes finals:
https://youtu.be/jaxmbllSflY?t=1444
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Finals UK time?
19:30
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Thank you Munch. Any word on the swearing probabilities??
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Great mix in the female finals of established winners and youth challengers.
Shauna is listed as the last female finalist. Hope this means she'll climb first and on her own.
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Anna is climbing on her own
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Japanese team appeal against Sean's start on M2
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Anna heel dab on the swing
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Anna heel dab on the swing
Class getting it done right!
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Shauna wins :dance1:
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Boom. Shauna can't be caught
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Unless I'm mistaken, Shauna's just taken another gold!
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nice one Shauna
:clap2:
:bow:
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Shauna wins :dance1:
Gah! Beaten to it [emoji21]
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Boom. Shauna can't be caught
What does she need to secure the whole thing?
Missed the start but coverage from Innsbruck looks to have been better than other competitions to me.
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Isn't it best 6 scores? Shauna has 4 golds, that means 400 points. Uncatchable?
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And a first senior medal for Janja? Also impressive
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Megan on prob 4 :o
Also, that was probably the most boring commentator combo i've heard
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Megan on prob 4 :o
This ^^^
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Shauna wins :dance1:
Gah! Beaten to it [emoji21]
Live in real time baby. The "live" feed has a few seconds delay in case he says fuck again
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Shauna wins :dance1:
did your lad enjoy it?
Shauna's flash of the last problem was very cool
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Shauna's got 437, 118 ahead of Miho, and 136 ahead of Melissa. No one else is in it really.
Pretty hard to catch now if she can drop the ninth from last week.
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Apparently if she makes the final in two more rounds then she is guaranteed to be world champ. Which is nice.
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Also, that was probably the most boring commentator combo i've heard
is it true that SBC has a hot lust thing for Graeme A ?
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shame about SBC being a bit dull, the israeli guy they had for the semis was really good I thought
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did your lad enjoy it?
Very much so thanks. Finding ourselves in the same restaurant as Jakob Schubert in thr afternoon was a bonus - always a good sign you're not in some crappy tourist trap iflocals go there.
Shauna's flash of the last problem was very cool
Good to see her back on machine mode after all the little slips on starts that made us nervous in the semis.
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Japanese team appeal against Sean's start on M2
I can see why they'd call that. What was the verdict?
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is it true that SBC has a hot lust thing for Graeme A ?
Well she did send me a friend request on Facebook from her private account ;D
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Apparently if she makes the final in two more rounds then she is guaranteed to be world champ. Which is nice.
Not quite true, it would be true if there was only 6 in the final but as we saw in Innsbruck you can always get ties :-\
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Angel, who does the On Bouldering stuff, is flogging tee shirts to help fund his travels to the comps. he is the only one that does video of the quals so if you want to support him go buy a shirt - they are quite cool anyway
https://represent.com/onbouldering-tee#shipping
Alternatively I can get a load sent to The Works so he saves on the shipping.
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another great comp
no run and jumps :)
would have been nice to see a bit of mens' 4 though
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Apparently if she makes the final in two more rounds then she is guaranteed to be world champ. Which is nice.
Not quite true, it would be true if there was only 6 in the final but as we saw in Innsbruck you can always get ties :-\
By my suspect calculations, if Shauna gets two 6th places and Miho wins the remaining two rounds then Miho will take the overall by 1 point.
However, if Shauna gets at least 3rd place in Vail then she can't be caught. If Miho gets 2nd next time then Shauna needs 8th for the overall (or Miho 3rd, Shauna 14th; Miho 4th, Shauna 19th and so on).
If Shauna finishes in at least 15th in Vail then Mel can't catch her.
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Having the strong Americans (Pooch and Megan) in Vail could help Shauna as they can take points from Miho and Melissa. With no Canada this year the traveling athletes will have jet lag and altitude to deal with. Pooch lives in Boulder and Megan in Colorado Springs so both have altitude sorted.
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What are people talking about? "help shauna"? She's won 4 world cups this year the last thing she needs is help
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What are people talking about? "help shauna"? She's won 4 world cups this year the last thing she needs is help
No Dense, the last things she needs is a broken leg like in 2012 or a knackered finger like last year ;)
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Graeme what happened with the Japanese team appeal against Shaun's start on the "foothold slot of doom" problem?? I was curious about that and what exactly the rules specific for starting hand/foot placements?
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I missed it, what boulder was it and I will have a look.
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I missed it, what boulder was it and I will have a look.
https://youtu.be/u7ki5XKtYTU?t=5660
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Having the strong Americans (Pooch and Megan) in Vail could help Shauna as they can take points from Miho and Melissa. With no Canada this year the traveling athletes will have jet lag and altitude to deal with. Pooch lives in Boulder and Megan in Colorado Springs so both have altitude sorted.
Is altitude really a problem? I'm genuinely curious about this. Just going on my own feelings of climbing at altitude, stamina plods are harder at moderate altitude (2500m) and they get a little easier with time. The few times I've done hard moves on routes or bouldering at altitude I haven't noticed any difference at all.
Of course, anaerobic power does not decrease with altitude as you can guess by the name of the metabolism, or by pursuing Coudert's article “Anaerobic performance at altitude” (1992). Again, just going by the name of the metabolism, aerobic power does decrease with altitude, and more so for athletes who are not acclimatised. According to Bassett ("Comparing cycling world hour records", 1999) the acclimatised athlete should have around 89% and the un-acclimatised athlete should have around 84% of maximal available power at 8000 feet a.s.l.
According “expert opinion” bouldering is mostly an anaerobic activity, where aerobic metabolisms are mostly used during the rest phase. (Of course, no published data exist on this, afaik... yes, there is one study on the systematic use of oxygen but that is of no interest whatsoever.)
If aerobic power is rather unimportant for bouldering, say that it supplies 20% of the energy and that 80% of the energy is supplied by the anaerobic pathways then a back-of-the-envelope computation say that an acclimatised competitor should be at 98% of max, while an un-acclimatised should be at 97% of max. Given the importance of route-reading and other factors, I very much doubt altitude (apart from altitude sickness of course) is a factor.
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I think you're underestimating the stamina aspect of a comp. The semi-finals followed by the finals in the same day is pretty brutal. If you recover less between rounds at altitude* being un-acclimatised compared to an acclimatised athlete, then you may struggle in the final with fatigue.
* I don't know if this is true, I'm speculating
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Having the strong Americans (Pooch and Megan) in Vail could help Shauna as they can take points from Miho and Melissa. With no Canada this year the traveling athletes will have jet lag and altitude to deal with. Pooch lives in Boulder and Megan in Colorado Springs so both have altitude sorted.
Given the importance of route-reading and other factors, I very much doubt altitude (apart from altitude sickness of course) is a factor.
I agree. Vail is only at 2445 m a.s.l according to google, too. Hardly 'high' altitude. Interesting looking site for assessing effect of altitude of oxygen availability: http://www.altitude.org/oxygen_levels.php. Apparently 75% of oxygen available at sea level is available at 2445 m.
I tried looking at wc results to see if the 'acclimatised athletes' tended to do better at the high altitude events, but quickly gave up on the ifsc website.
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quickly gave up on the ifsc website.
I've done that. As easy to navigate around as Swindon.
Would have thought altitude would male little difference.
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Having the strong Americans (Pooch and Megan) in Vail could help Shauna as they can take points from Miho and Melissa. With no Canada this year the traveling athletes will have jet lag and altitude to deal with. Pooch lives in Boulder and Megan in Colorado Springs so both have altitude sorted.
Given the importance of route-reading and other factors, I very much doubt altitude (apart from altitude sickness of course) is a factor.
I agree. Vail is only at 2445 m a.s.l according to google, too. Hardly 'high' altitude. Interesting looking site for assessing effect of altitude of oxygen availability: http://www.altitude.org/oxygen_levels.php. Apparently 75% of oxygen available at sea level is available at 2445 m.
I tried looking at wc results to see if the 'acclimatised athletes' tended to do better at the high altitude events, but quickly gave up on the ifsc website.
It might make a small amount of difference, but given these athletes are performing at their max, the difference may be impactful?
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If you recover less between rounds at altitude* being un-acclimatised compared to an acclimatised athlete, then you may struggle in the final with fatigue.
* I don't know if this is true, I'm speculating
Aerobic power and capacity is certainly important for recovery. There's a ton of stuff that happens inside the muscles when resting between the moves, between the attempts, between the boulders and between the heats. A better anaerobic metabolism improves recovery between the moves and between the attempts, that we can say with very high confidence. But if it is so important that it will have great impact on the outcome even at just 2500 m (where aerobic power is just 6% lower for un-acclimatised climbers than for fully acclimatised) then I think this indicates that aerobic power is more important than we might think for the outcome of boulder world cups.
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I missed it, what boulder was it and I will have a look.
From what I heard, from Dave Mason (who was there) via Bri, the Japanese appealed because Sean apparently did not touch the left hand hold with his right hand hold - you can't see this from the live stream as his body is in the way.
This would be consistent with the rule which allows you to pull on like Sean did ie right hand and right foot on right hand volume and then touch the correct start holds before using any other holds.
So I was not there, don't know exactly what happened, or when it happened (did the Japanese check their own video and conclude it was worth an appeal) so sorry I can't be more definite.
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I tried looking at wc results to see if the 'acclimatised athletes' tended to do better at the high altitude events, but quickly gave up on the ifsc website.
Anecdotally, yes they do, Pooch and Megan have won golds in Vail but never anywhere else. Of course Megan hasn't done many comps so it might be less valid than for Pooch.
Also Alex Johnson, Margo Hayes and Angie Payne have all been in finals in Vail but no where else. They all live in Boulder.
Ps this is from memory so AJ might have been in a final elsewhere but i don't think so, she was the perennial 7th which is why she did lots of commentating in finals when she did the tour
Of course it might just be home crowd advantage rather than altitude but who knows.
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Okay cool, I was just interested. I assumed it was because Sean started with two limbs touching the single taped foothold before moving his hand to match the starting handholds (which I assumed he did). Then I thought "no, competitors often pull on into position with a foot against the wall before moving it to tap a requisite taped foothold"....and then I thought "but maybe that's okay as long as the spare limb is just against the wall, but not okay if the spare limb is exceeding the number of tapes put on a hold". But then as you say if the only rule is "Must have all limbs on correct starting holds before touching a non-starting hold" then what he did is legit (I'm sure he would have scraped a fingernail against the edge of the handholds before moving).
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Altitude difference would be massive to some people, speaking from my own experience and I'm sure not cheesy will agree with me, we flew into salt lake and were out of our minds for 3 days! This time it was due to the altitude. No concentration, all looked like jack Nicholson at the end of one flew over the cuckoos nest.
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Maybe US competitors have done better because of a) home-crowd advantage and b) a less competitive field?
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I missed it, what boulder was it and I will have a look.
From what I heard, from Dave Mason (who was there) via Bri, the Japanese appealed because Sean apparently did not touch the left hand hold with his right hand hold - you can't see this from the live stream as his body is in the way.
This would be consistent with the rule which allows you to pull on like Sean did ie right hand and right foot on right hand volume and then touch the correct start holds before using any other holds.
So I was not there, don't know exactly what happened, or when it happened (did the Japanese check their own video and conclude it was worth an appeal) so sorry I can't be more definite.
But the appeal was dismissed, so I assume that either there was other footage showing him touching it, or when lacking footage they go with the original judges decision? Seems unlikely he'd reach back to touch the starting hold, then decide not to bother when almost there (notwithstanding rodma's experience...)
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Speaking with my Diver hat on, a 25% reduction in PPO2 would be crippling ; if suddenly introduced. Similar to reducing O2 at sea level to 15%. Since PPO2 is critical to gas exchange it's going to have a detrimental effect in overall feeling of health and energy.
I've seen people blackout finning on the surface breathing 13% O2 travel gas.
Don't underestimate PPO2. If you tried breathing pure O2 below 6mtsw you twitch out of O2 toxicity and drown. 6 mtrs being fuckall.
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But the appeal was dismissed, so I assume that either there was other footage showing him touching it, or when lacking footage they go with the original judges decision? Seems unlikely he'd reach back to touch the starting hold, then decide not to bother when almost there (notwithstanding rodma's experience...)
I didn't know that :) But it doesn't actually alter what I said, he would only have been illegal if he hadn't touched with his right hand. The Japanese got it wrong, either not knowing the rule or trying it on.
In the finals there are so many pairs of eyes (boulder judge x 2 + either the JP or the other IFSC Judge plus 50% of the Delegate) that you hopefully don't need to check the video. A classic example of this was Ondra last year in Innsbruck, the boulder judges were already telling Ondra to step off as me and the JP were scrambling onto the mats. No video was needed
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Here you go
https://www.facebook.com/seanmccoll1987/videos/965024826947334/
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So he just about brushed it with his fingertip, but if the judge was happy then it's good.. I wonder if the Japanese appeal was about the whole method, or if they though he didn't actually touch the hold.
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i can imagine they thought he didn't touch/use the left hand hold
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Maybe they were just appealing against that haircut.
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I can see how they didn't like it, that video clears it up enough, and it was a superb send by Sean.
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Good comp, pretty good production, great win for Shauna. To think she almost didn't make finals!
I'll admit to a little smirk when SBC was introduced as giving an "experts' view", can't say she bought much to the commentary. Is Liam in the running for next year? Need someone with a touch of verbal diarrhoea to fill in the blanks better than "the climber's just resting................*long pause*............".
Nice routes though, no run-n-jumps which was welcome (I'm assuming the setter's a glued to UKB to see what to set next). Nice to see a slab for the men too - great variety and all solved in a number of ways.
Akiyo doesn't look as smooth as last year - not sure if under-trained or just "off" generally. Similarly Anna doesn't seem to be reading the problems like her old self - still has the best smile though.
Dimi looked frustrated by most of the blocs, surprised he didn't nail the crimp fest though.
Can't wait to see Pooch in Vail, should make for a great comp with her and MM.
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I can see how they didn't like it
Yup, he busted out some beta they hadn't thought of.
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I'll admit to a little smirk when SBC was introduced as giving an "experts' view"
Oh FFS this is getting boring. She's been in a semifinal this year and is currently ranked #25 in the world. That makes her a considerably better qualified expert than, for example, you.
I offer no opinion on whether or not she's a crap commentator as I haven't listened to the English language commentary. In general I think getting competitors to co-commentate is a great idea. Of course some of them will turn out to good at it, and some will turn out to be not so great on their first attempt.
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Watched this last night. Another good comp. Well done shauna, won with some very strong competition. Shame Akiyo is off the pace. I'm sure her and anna will be back at the top soon. Still finding the woman's more compelling viewing than the men's at the moment.
SBC was good I thought. I'd presumed she be more vacuous. But she was genuine, offered some good insights when asked and clearly wanted MM to win!
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SBC was good I thought. I'd presumed she be more vacuous. But she was genuine, offered some good insights when asked and clearly wanted MM to win!
My smirk was a guilty one... I've heard her interviewed before and she comes across really well, think it was before the ABS '15 finals.
Muenchener - how was Killi at commentating? Assuming you were listening in German?
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Muenchener - how was Killi at commentating? Assuming you were listening in German?
Kili was on Austrian TV, Muenchener was there live
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Yeah, I wasn't sure whether it was the same commentary live & on TV but on reflection I guess probably not.
The live commentator was ok. Iirc in Kazo it was Yuji :bow: and in Munich Markus Grünebach generally does it. He's been Bavarian state champion multiple times and runs a chain of bouldering walls, so also has something of a clue. The DJ in Munich is generally better; shame it's always in the school holidays when we're rarely at home.
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I haven't listened to the English language commentary.
... except the bit about me & the lad at 3:12:00 to 3:12:02 8)
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I'll admit to a little smirk when SBC was introduced as giving an "experts' view"
Oh FFS this is getting boring. She's been in a semifinal this year and is currently ranked #25 in the world. That makes her a considerably better qualified expert than, for example, you.
I offer no opinion on whether or not she's a crap commentator as I haven't listened to the English language commentary. In general I think getting competitors to co-commentate is a great idea. Of course some of them will turn out to good at it, and some will turn out to be not so great on their first attempt.
She could be the expert of experts, or even declaim the entire Divine Comedy by memory, she still has one of the most annoying, squeakiest voices I've ever heard.
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I've heard more irritating voices, didn't think she was that bad, must admit that i though she sounded OK and fairly knowledgeabe before realising who it was. And I learned from her what a valedictorian is.
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Going back to Vail/altitude briefly as I catch up.
(BTW Graeme, AJ won in Switzerland the first year that she did a whole season)
The years that Diane competed at Vail she always commented on how most competitors would come back into isolation after each problem puffing and panting. Even on the slab. Which you don't normally get at lower altitude events. So anybody that didn't end up like this, due to whatever, would be at an advantage.
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The translation from Japanese to Englishis really crap but judging by Akiyo's Facebook post she was just really tired and felt week. Given that she mid read the beta a couple of times I wonder if this is a mental thing as much as a physical one.
As for SBC commentating I thought she was good, kept the normal bloke on track with the scores at least - he keeps saying watch the action and we'll worry about the maths later which makes no sense, especially when the competition is as close as it is in the women's at the moment.
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the normal bloke ..... he keeps saying watch the action and we'll worry about the maths later
I'd forgotten about that - it annoyed me at the time
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I didn't enjoy SBC's commentary. Reminded me of Mark Lawrenson's commentary - never seemed to say something that added anything.
I think Sean did one last year? That had some insight into what the competitors are really thinking iirc. Didn't realise he had done > 100 world cups!
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Valedictorian would be a good name for a route though
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Valedictorian would be a good name for a route though
Victorian Valedictorian? Or would that not work [emoji16]
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.... And I learned from her what a valedictorian is.
I thought she was great, however the definition of valedictorian was strictly speaking wrong (the valedictorian is the student delivering the valediction, which may or may not be the students with highest grade average) and slightly confusing since “class” has a different meaning in american english.
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What did she say it was?
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Whoever had the highest GPA (which means Grade Point Average - I was paying attention).
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Valedictorian would be a good name for a route though
Valid Dick Tory?
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Just to touch on the altitude thing and name drop I was talking to Coach Glennie on Tuesday and he said they were flying out a week early to acclimatise which would suggest that they are taking the altitude fairly seriously...
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Just to touch on the altitude thing and name drop I was talking to Coach Glennie on Tuesday and he said they were flying out a week early to acclimatise which would suggest that they are taking the altitude fairly seriously...
Only feasible flights include a stopover in La Paz though yeah?
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No idea, we swiftly moved on to talking about fly fishing... :fishing:
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Just to touch on the altitude thing and name drop I was talking to Coach Glennie on Tuesday and he said they were flying out a week early to acclimatise which would suggest that they are taking the altitude fairly seriously...
Isn't taking it seriously sleeping in a large section of pipe with a DIY pressure reduction system that might end you should it fail in the night?
I drove from Squamish (over a day or so) to the Hulk in the High Sierras. Climbing the route (a 5.10) was bleedin' hard work. My head was pounding and I kept kicking holds rather than placing my feet on them. Also, on the walk in there was an altitude at which both Nat and I seriously slowed down (up until that point I thought perhaps people were just making a meal of it).
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If you like to geek out on the bouldering WC's, then I found this lengthy podcast with Udo Neuman offers some interesting and anecdotal points:
http://ctclimbingpodcast.com/2016-world-cup-roundup-udo-neumann-ifsc-climbing/
He gives a good insight into the organisation of various WC's, the structure of different teams, styles of route setters, quality of holds (Laurent Laporte's Cheeta volumes age really quickly) and why the Russians never get ill on their travels (because Russians see sickness as a matter of willpower).
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as somebody who now lives in colorado, i can tell you that going from sea level to 8000' is going to affect anybodies athletic performance. how much its going to effect a bouldering competition is difficult to say. i can go and work away for a month at sea level, come back and go mountain biking at 10,000'. im gasping for air but other than that ok. if my wife goes away for more than a week, she gets headaches and dizziness for a day or 2, it affects people differently.
it would seem that competing against the worlds best in any sport, that margins are small and a fully acclimatized athlete will perform better, i imagine those that can will try and get out there a week early.
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Good move, where in CO are you based now?
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Just outside of golden
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Nice, the lowlands ;) I lived in Fraser ("Icebox of the Nation") for 2 winters.
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Nice, the lowlands ;) I lived in Fraser ("Icebox of the Nation") for 2 winters.
was up there today, beautiful right now, super green and still loads of snow on the peaks
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Yep apparently amazing snowpack this season
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IFSC just put on fb that female qualifiers to start an hour earlier at 1400 tomo. If I've worked it out right that's 2100 BST
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& hours difference - they are on Mountain time in the mountains ;D
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Or even 7 hours difference. Doh!
Ty and Dave both through, Ty 3rd in his group and Dave had his normal nail biter by being in 10th for half the comp.
It would ge great to see all 3 Brit women through as well to help consolidate our 3rd place national ranking. It is strange to see us beating Austria and possibly even over hauling France to get 2nd :smart:
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no stream of the qualies?
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Correct - there is no stream of qualification. Vail is always a hard comp if you're a lowlander - I've set there twice and I have struggled both times with the thin air for the first three or four days. You don't notice it at all until you try and exert yourself, and then you're puffing like an old bastard! Before Dense starts confirming that I am an old bastard, a mate of mine who is an ultra runner and one of the fittest guys I know was in Vail for the mountain games last year, and I caught him on his way back from a training run on his first day in town. He'd made it half a mile from the hotel before he was totally done in, and had to do the walk of shame back home due to the altitude doing him in.... A spot of acclimatisation will do competitors the world of good...
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Onbouldering have a vid on FB/Instagram of a Qual problem.
As Graeme said, both Brits through, but also Hojer, Coleman and Hori out.
Shauna's just flashed W1
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a mate of mine who is an ultra runner and one of the fittest guys I know was in Vail for the mountain games last year, and I caught him on his way back from a training run on his first day in town. He'd made it half a mile from the hotel before he was totally done in, and had to do the walk of shame back home due to the altitude doing him in....
A friend who is into mountaineering once told me that when he went to the Himalayas, the people who suffered most from altitude were the keen fell runners. The one who coped best was the smoker. Reading around since suggests that it's an acknowledged phenomenon - combination of smokers being used to coping with low partial pressures of oxygen, and fit types being a bit high maintenance and / or incapable of taking it easy enough to acclimatize. So.... put your bets on the indolent chain smoker.... or maybe not!
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Pic of Puccio on Insta getting her shoulder taped for the comp today, but she's not on the results page......
edit-looks like they're still coming out. guess she must be last
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Pooch is one of the last out.
Shauna is top so far, and Micheala looks safe, but Leah is 19th and given the strong Americans still to go, looks in danger of not making semis.
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Pooch is back, joint 1st with Shauna.
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a mate of mine who is an ultra runner and one of the fittest guys I know was in Vail for the mountain games last year, and I caught him on his way back from a training run on his first day in town. He'd made it half a mile from the hotel before he was totally done in, and had to do the walk of shame back home due to the altitude doing him in....
A friend who is into mountaineering once told me that when he went to the Himalayas, the people who suffered most from altitude were the keen fell runners. The one who coped best was the smoker. Reading around since suggests that it's an acknowledged phenomenon - combination of smokers being used to coping with low partial pressures of oxygen, and fit types being a bit high maintenance and / or incapable of taking it easy enough to acclimatize. So.... put your bets on the indolent chain smoker.... or maybe not!
Another description I heard was that altitude is like trying to operate with a severe hangover, all the time. And there is an obvious way to train for that ...
So who is the Don Whillans of competition bouldering?
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a mate of mine who is an ultra runner and one of the fittest guys I know was in Vail for the mountain games last year, and I caught him on his way back from a training run on his first day in town. He'd made it half a mile from the hotel before he was totally done in, and had to do the walk of shame back home due to the altitude doing him in....
A friend who is into mountaineering once told me that when he went to the Himalayas, the people who suffered most from altitude were the keen fell runners. The one who coped best was the smoker. Reading around since suggests that it's an acknowledged phenomenon - combination of smokers being used to coping with low partial pressures of oxygen, and fit types being a bit high maintenance and / or incapable of taking it easy enough to acclimatize. So.... put your bets on the indolent chain smoker.... or maybe not!
Runners and the super fit are often crap at altitude it seems. My theory is that they can't necessarily go slow for very extended periods and tend to push too hard. There are exceptions - we had an ultra marathon runner who did very well, but then he was used to being on the go for 12+ hrs. The smoking thing is bollocks though, generally speaking smokers don't do so well. As for bouldering, I've bouldered at 5400m and you know about it, but I reckon it would be a poor excuse for a bad performance. If you've not arrived a few days early in Vail then you've asked for it!
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I always got the impression that adaption to altitude is a pretty random physiological quirk. The year I went to the Himalaya I "trained" by working in a bakery in Bristol and climbing in the gorge in the evenings and was pretty worried that I simply wasn't going to be fit enough. But I felt positively good when I got out there, I would almost say better than normal. I felt like it suited me. Not that this proves anything of course.
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Does anyone know what time the final is? I can't make anything out of the ifsc website, again!
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CNLzus-CqEw
This is the only way I can work it out. Using the countdown on Youtube. Not sure how much prewaffle is included.
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Does anyone know what time the final is? I can't make anything out of the ifsc website, again!
They're 7 hours behind us, semis 5pm and finals 11.30pm. I think.
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Correct
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Cheers guys. The ifsc website makes my head hurt
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That was close!
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Tactics, finish in 6th,get the upside-down result. Worked last time.
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Live now
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XxZpoF0Bgao
think I read if she finishes 3rd or better she's won the overall, or if Miho finishes lower than 2nd
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Bit amateur of Shauna on W4, could cost her the win if Megan doesn't top it.
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Bit amateur of Shauna on W4, could cost her the win if Megan doesn't top it.
Oh well, doesn't change the overall.
Shame about Men's 4, looked incredible...didn't seem to climb very well.
Conditions must have changed a lot since it was set.
G'Night all! :yawn:
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Yeah didn't make any difference since Megan was pretty untouchable, And with Miho not performing Shauna's wrapped up the overall.
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There's just one round left; Munich? Good work Shauna MBE.
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So not much comment apart from Shaunambe then?
Thought Puccio appeared to suffer, not sure if it was a shoulder injury? odd as W4 looked like it'd be right up her street and she made no impression on it. Good to see Anna's not a spent force.
Bit gutted Rubtsov didn't nick it at the end, looks to be just between Tomoa and Kokoro now. Loved Shaun's beta at the start of M3, shame he didn't quite seal the deal.
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Just watched Rustam on M3 in the final from about 1:25 to 1:29. More or less continuously. Magnificent thrutching skills.
Who is the co-commentator? SBC again? Doing a good job imo whoever it is.
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Who is the co-commentator? SBC again? Doing a good job imo whoever it is.
No, another American lass. Climbed well in the semis.
Good comp. Problems mostly good to watch. The dyno to a footless quarryman press was a cool move.
The Japanese team has been incredible this year.
Shame Alexey didn't top the slab - he was the only bloke who got close.
Lots of talk about the field heating up next year with Megan doing the circuit, Janja coming through and so on. I heard elsewhere that Ashima is 16 next year, so finally old enough to compete. That would be good to see...
As they mentioned in the commentary, it will be interesting to hear if anything hard gets done in RMNP with lots of climbers staying on for a while...
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Watched the back end of the semis. Once I had got my head around the merrily rotating carousel that was semi qualifying it was brilliant. Pooch was looking beastly strong - she really made the problems look easy. Shauna blitzing W4 as well to qualify was just great - total heart in mouth uttering allez's at the monitor while she was on it. That was the semis for me and the short time I was watching it.
As for the finals:
Mens - just great action - the guy desperately trying to match the final hold on one of the early problems (either M1 or M2 - can't remember but he was the only one to get close to it) was almost heartbreaking. M3 was even better - Rustam (if he is the one that I am thinking of) had no right to do the problem the way he did it which can only be described as a bloody brilliant whilst equally outrageous solution to that problem but however you did the problem it was a potentially massive shutdown at the end. I must admit to a few vicarious thoughts at the end of that one. M4? That was a bit of a harsh one but - conditions? They mentioned them in the commentary I think but not sure.
Womens - Disappointed to see Pooch carrying - what was to my punter eyes anyway - a shoulder injury in the finals. As mentioned earlier she was looking strong but in the final she was getting shut down with problems I would assume she would do easily. Shauna looked really relaxed and looked to be climbing well but Megan was in another class - four problems in five attempts tells it's own story. Don't remember he problems as well - they seemed to get done reasonably quickly and the it was over to the men to see them suffer. W3 I would have liked to see a bit more as it was the one problem that seemed to present a real issue on the Women' circuit (unless your name is Megan) but it was against the M3 problem which was the problem of the finals.
Still can't complain for my first live viewing on the web - not quite in the league of Sex Pistols at the Free Trade Hall in Manchester but I won't complain. ;)
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As they mentioned in the commentary, it will be interesting to hear if anything hard gets done in RMNP with lots of climbers staying on for a while...
Fb says sol sa just did her first V10 on rock
Find that a tiny bit depressing tbh.
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Am I right in thinking Shauna may end this year setting the record for the highest score for a given season in the world cup?
If she were to win the final event, and if her 9th place score is dropped, she would then have the second highest score possible.
Even if she tanks the last event, does anyone happen to know if anyone else has ever had a more dominant season?
edit: I've just realised that there isn't necessarily a consistent number of events throughout the years, so obviously they aren't directly comparable.
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Anna Stoehr? 2013 I think she had 7 1sts and a 2nd out of 8 comps?
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As they mentioned in the commentary, it will be interesting to hear if anything hard gets done in RMNP with lots of climbers staying on for a while...
Fb says sol sa just did her first V10 on rock
Find that a tiny bit depressing tbh.
I know! I saw this and thought unbelievable! I don't know how close she lives to real rock though. I picture monsters being born in gyms, only seeing natural light on day release to compete.
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Anna Stoehr? 2013 I think she had 7 1sts and a 2nd out of 8 comps?
Fair enough. Effort Anna :bow:
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Yeah, I was surprised the commentators didn't know that - it was an extraordinary season for Anna. Perhaps they have only started following the comps in the last couple of years.
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Good round, great result.
Ideally a couple more tops for the men would've been nice - Rubstov dropping M2 was tantalising, M4 looked really hard - especially as the last problem when everyone's already gassed.
9/10 production, couple of duff camera shots, Kyra was a good commentator which in turn gave Charlie something more to talk about.
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Yeah, I was surprised the commentators didn't know that - it was an extraordinary season for Anna. Perhaps they have only started following the comps in the last couple of years.
That's not really a good reason not to know (/not to be supplied with info on) such things as a commentator.
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Kyra was a good commentator.
Really? Maybe harsh, but she has one of those bland monotone american voices. Almost had to mute it.
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Yeah, I was surprised the commentators didn't know that - it was an extraordinary season for Anna. Perhaps they have only started following the comps in the last couple of years.
It was in 2013, not 1983.
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But they're not really commentators are they? In the grand scheme of things. One's nearly always from the semis who didn't make it into the final and who knows who the other is?
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Not as monotonous as others I thought... and every other word wasn't "like", and very few "super-" things too.
I think I've worked out what my grumble is about the commentary in general is; it's the lack of passion.
When Rubstov dropped the last move, it was a very flat "Oh, he's missed it" where as me and the Mrs let out a big "Ooooooooooo". There's no excitement from the commentators.
Also, it seems they're both watching the screen, not the live action as a couple of times they didn't know what attempt a person was on (Melissa on W3? for example) they didn't know whether she'd even pulled on as the camera had only been showing M3. Perhaps they couldn't see the live action, but seems odd to me.
Lastly - the scores not working on screen and saying "check the app" doesn't work if you're not watching live as you'll see the final results...
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Or the scores being shown over somebody's flash attempt (at least make it semi-transparent)!
But they're not really commentators are they? In the grand scheme of things. One's nearly always from the semis who didn't make it into the final and who knows who the other is?
I know what you're getting at, but yes, they are commentators and it's hardly a big ask (or that complex) to have some access to past stats. You'd need one comps geek to be available via the great wide interweb with a spreadsheet or simply access to the spreadsheet (the IFSC website is rubbish)!
Apart from my above negativity I thought they were decent enough.
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Kyra was a good commentator.
+1
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onbouldering.com (http://onbouldering.com) has some good highlights footage of the women's qualis from Vail.
https://youtu.be/cVLic8TYfU4
At around 6:20 we even see Shauna visibly having to try hard :o
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... and here are the lads
https://youtu.be/Wvlj6etfSiI
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Seems puccio was seriously injured in vail, herniated disc, will need removing and fusing, 3 months off.
https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=1150135955047384&id=456682231059430
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Bloody hell,that's awful.Poor lassie.
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That is shit for her! Hope all goes well >:(
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i wish i was strong enough to herniate something
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Shit, a slipped disc? Strange, she's not even that old, is she?
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Discuss. Or not.
The top male competitors either are on par with the world's best when they visit the great outdoors (Hojer, Ondra, Schubert, etc) or would be on par with the world's best after a few months of getting used to the new environment I'm sure. I agree that it would be more interesting if there were fewer strong competitors.
Rustam climbs outdoors for three days this year, does Hypnotised Minds. The best competitors are the best climbers.
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To be fair it's quite obvious he'd piss it, it's also quite obvious he'd piss woods other problem in magic wood 8c, name escapes me at mo. He'd struggle like fuck on things like the island, spectre etc. Horses for courses
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No idea of the competition hence lazily sticking it in here, but some serious topping out skills (http://imgur.com/gallery/f64uJ) .
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It's the head to head from last year's Adidas Rockstars
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Rustam climbs outdoors for three days this year, does Hypnotised Minds.
Possibly a dumb question, but what sort of grade are the probs they do in the finals? Hard to tell when they make everything looks so piss.
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[UKC]
well, I've been climbing at Hard Severe for 30 years and I think the problems in the final look about 6C+
[/UKC]
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In the 7B-8C bracket? My experience of world-cup style problems is mostly through Romain Cabessut (chief route-setter in Vail this year for instance) who sometimes set problems in one of the gyms in Toulouse. His problems are impossible to climb regardless of the grade.
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Having had a fairly close nosy before the start of the semis in Innsbruck: the holds are a lot smaller/slopier/worse than they look on youtube
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Can't remember where, but sure I've read it's quite a big range, something like low 7's to low 8's depending on style.
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Having had a fairly close nosy before the start of the semis in Innsbruck: the holds are a lot smaller/slopier/worse than they look on youtube
Yep, I figured as much. When you look from behind most of the time it's a surprise when there's a change of angle and you see actual steepness.
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When's the next one? Munich? Or is that the World Champs (or whatever it's called...)
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Looks like last bouldering is Munich 12/13 August. Quite a wait for an anticlimax for women's but men's is still open?
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NNFN
women's lead final in briancon starts with a run 'n almost jump
:furious:
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Never mind, tiny Dinara Fakhritdinova just did it static, using what looked like a foot"hold"
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It's crazy that Kasja just came off so low, having onsighted 8c earlier this year. The level is so high in the girls' final!
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The commentator continues to be uninformed, he can't even describe what we are seeing. It was obvious that Jain Kim had got the sequence wrong having gone to higher side pull with her left so she couldn't press out with it, she was struggling on this move for a good few seconds so it was pretty obvious but he's still banging on about her slipping off. Unfortunately the co-comm isn't adding much insight either.
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The commentator continues to be uninformed, he can't even describe what we are seeing. It was obvious that Jain Kim had got the sequence wrong having gone to higher side pull with her left so she couldn't press out with it, she was struggling on this move for a good few seconds so it was pretty obvious but he's still banging on about her slipping off. Unfortunately the co-comm isn't adding much insight either.
Come on, cut the guy some slack. He's been (I assume voluntarily) turning essentially random events into narratives for two days solid now. The fact that you noticed that she re-adjusted and ended up wrong-handed just demonstrates that your perception is at such a level that you don't need a commentary. I thought he did a pretty good job to be honest.
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I find him really friendly.
But... Can you imagine a football commentator who is really friendly but can not remember the score, or who scored, let alone how anyone scored?
I love to watch the climbing , but the commentary is slowly getting to me.
The last two semi's were great, with one of the route setters as co-commentators, that's the way to go
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The thing is if the comms aren't going to comment on the different sequences etc what are they supposed to talk about? It's not like he's giving background of the climbers and doesn't seem to know where people are up to (he was saying he wasn't sure whether one of the climbers was in provisional second or not when she fell three holds below the provisional third placed climber). All that might sound a bit harsh and it is a minor gripe as the coverage was excellent but it just like footy commentary of a few years ago where pundits added nothing, just a few platitudes and vague observations.
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I find him really friendly.
But... Can you imagine a football commentator who is really friendly but can not remember the score, or who scored, let alone how anyone scored?
Now you mention it having Chris Kamara as commentator might liven things up!
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I find him really friendly.
But... Can you imagine a football commentator who is really friendly but can not remember the score, or who scored, let alone how anyone scored?
This would be AMAZING.
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It's crazy that Kasja just came off so low, having onsighted 8c earlier this year. The level is so high in the girls' final!
She was really nervous (her 2nd senior comp). I met her after the semis and she was hoping for the final to be canceled due to rain...
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(I assume voluntarily)
Surely this should be in 'Only Joking'
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I find him really friendly.
But... Can you imagine a football commentator who is really friendly but can not remember the score, or who scored, let alone how anyone scored?
This would be AMAZING.
:off:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H8gKmQ6Hrro
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Haha, that's exactly it
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Except at the ifsc no one is laughing
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Streaming didn't work due to a dodgy connection, I think there will have been some angry words this morning once the service provider got to work. Finals now up. Worth fast forwarding to 1 hr 53 to see Manu Cornu on P4. Funny as fuck.
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So much for Dmitrii peaking for the World Champs then :-( And what happened to Jan this year? Can't hack it without his gf?
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qwQQHxl-DqA&t=3539s
Excellent final....just watch the whole thing. Amazing.
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I watched this last night. 1st time i have seen a lead comp for years other than the occasional glimpse. Thought it was brilliant and Ondra was in a league of his own.
Does anyone know how the points work out for the combined. Ondra got a 1st and 2nd so if he had turned up at the speed, fall off the 1st move and coming last would he have had enough points to beat McColl.
Sounds like the IFSC/IOC are not going to move from the combined thing for the Olympics so pretty sure if the top boys want to join in they are going to have to do speed.
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I watched the blind climbing. All I can say is :bow:
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Superb route setting in the men's final by Adam Pustelnik (8c+ allegedly). Another highlight was Petra Klinger's ascent of women's final boulder
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2mhDMzzbmpQ
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Barrans was 7th in the combined, could have been higher if he'd done a little better at the speed.
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Does anyone know how the points work out for the combined. Ondra got a 1st and 2nd so if he had turned up at the speed, fall off the 1st move and coming last would he have had enough points to beat McColl.
no.
it works like this:
1) the athletes who do the combined are ranked within each discipline (eg manu cornu was 1st of the boulder, mccoll 2nd, etc)
2) the sum of the 3 disciplines ranks makes the combined ranking.
this means that a competitor being quite good at all 3 has a lot more chances than one being dominant at 2 disciplines and bad at one.
example: mccoll was 2B,4S,1L. total=7. he won the combined. Manu was 1B,1S,8L. Total=10. Silver. A theoretical competitor being second at each discipline would have beaten the two of them.
and for instance, somebody being 10th at each discipline would rank better than one winning two of them and being 30th at the other one...
it could work a bit more as you said with a score system (1st=100 ponts, 2nd=80 etc). That would leave the door open to someone being strongest at lead and boulder, and total shit at speed. I honestly don't see the french federation pushing in this direction...dunno for the rest of the world.
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It should work like this: Combine the results from the lead and bouldering comps and ignore the speed comp as it's an insult to the other 2.
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It should work like this: Combine the results from the lead and bouldering comps and ignore the speed comp as it's an insult to the other 2.
i have many things against speed.
the only time i tried a speed wall i was ridiculous, i think some top speed climbers look more like communist-era weightlifters than climbers, i don't like the route staying the same for a long time, i don't like time being used to split ties in lead etc...
BUT i like the idea of a speed event making a small difference in a combined format. imho they should twist the thing so that the best bet to get a medal would be to get really strong at two disciplines and barely decent at the third, rather than "average" at all three.
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Leah has made finals at rockstars. Think they're live somewhere but on train.
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http://www.adidas-rockstars.com/en/live/
from 7.15pm BST
(according to Shauna)
I don't know what Adidas think they are doing; I didn't even get asked to compete
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http://www.adidas-rockstars.com/en/live/
from 7.15pm BST
(according to Shauna)
I don't know what Adidas think they are doing; I didn't even get asked to compete
Your prior Nike sponsorship ruled you out...
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http://www.adidas-rockstars.com/en/live/
from 7.15pm BST
(according to Shauna)
I don't know what Adidas think they are doing; I didn't even get asked to compete
Really?
They wouldn't leave me alone, even after I explained I was washing my hair tonight.
All posts either sarcastic, tongue-in-cheek or mildly mocking-in-a-friendly-way unless otherwise stated. Looking at you, here, Dense.
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just watched Janja on B2 - :bow:
quite enjoying Shauna's commentary
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Yeah, that was crazy. It looked like she killed the swing before she even bothered taking the undercut :strongbench:
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I was expecting her to chuck a fist jam into that big hole/pocket - she didn't need it
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and again on B3 :bow:
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Trommelfeuer :bow:
after this I expect to be entertained by Graeme and Percy playing house music on wine bottles and bags of cash
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that Adidas women's superfinal is what the Olympics should be
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that Adidas women's superfinal is what the Olympics should be
And should we have the same format for the men, or something different?
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i'm pretty sure the comment was posted between the women's ant the men's final.
but please please pretty please don't add time to bouldering
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that Adidas women's superfinal is what the Olympics should be
The format for the women's super final turned out to be pretty much IFSC standard format. 4+ minutes with most tops winning :-)
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that Adidas women's superfinal is what the Olympics should be
And should we have the same format for the men, or something different?
3 people doing the same problem at once, obviously (gold, silver, bronze); and all three should look like they're enjoying the challenge
maybe have a money prize for the best victory dance?
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Superb route setting in the men's final by Adam Pustelnik (8c+ allegedly). Another highlight was Petra Klinger's ascent of women's final boulder
Damn right that.
The recent IFSC stuff has been generally great :clap2:
Will have to catch up on the rockstarz.
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I am obviously biased, but of all the media from the world championships, I like this one the best. A five minute short from the mens finals, but just key bits in slo-mo with a half decent soundtrack......
https://youtu.be/SzyFSIpNEgU
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I am obviously biased, but of all the media from the world championships, I like this one the best. A five minute short from the mens finals, but just key bits in slo-mo with a half decent soundtrack......
https://youtu.be/SzyFSIpNEgU
I obviously thought the whole thing was shit and the setting hasn't moved on from the Foundry Bouldering League 1994/5. Low level traversing in the fire escape corridor is what is needed in the Olympics.
Ps Percy did okay in Paris :-)
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Meant to say this ages ago, big shout out to the Bishmeister for awesome setting in Paris. I expect someone has already said it but the final women's problem was one of the best I've ever seen! The look on Petra Klingler's face as she stuck the move was "moment of the year" for me and also Anna Stohr wagging her finger when she figured out the move too late. Just brilliant! :clap2: :bow:
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2017 IFSC Bouldering World Cup provisional calendar:
| Final | Date | Venue | Country |
| Sat | 08/04/2017 | Meiringen | Switzerland |
| Sun | 23/04/2017 | Chongqing | China |
| Sun | 30/04/2017 | Nanjing | China |
| Sun | 07/05/2017 | Tokyo | Japan |
| Sun | 21/05/2017 | Amsterdam | Netherlands |
| Sun | 11/06/2017 | Vail | USA |
| Sun | 25/06/2017 | Mumbai | India |
| Sat | 19/08/2017 | Munich | Germany |
In additional there's:
| Date | Event | Venue | Country |
| 26/02/2017 | CISM World Winter Games | Sochi | Russia |
| 25-26/03/2017 | Studio Bloc Masters | Pfungstadt | Germany |
| 21-23/07/2017 | The World Games | Wroclaw | Poland |
| 25-26/05/2017 | ROCKMASTER | Arco | Italy |
The two World Games events feature Lead, Speed and Bouldering but I don't know if they are stand alone competitions or combined like the Olympics proposal.
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2017 IFSC Bouldering World Cup provisional calendar:
| Final | Date | Venue | Country |
| Sat | 08/04/2017 | Meiringen | Switzerland |
| Sun | 23/04/2017 | Chongqing | China |
| Sun | 30/04/2017 | Nanjing | China |
| Sun | 07/05/2017 | Tokyo | Japan |
| Sun | 21/05/2017 | Amsterdam | Netherlands |
| Sun | 11/06/2017 | Vail | USA |
| Sun | 25/06/2017 | Mumbai | India |
| Sat | 19/08/2017 | Munich | Germany |
In additional there's:
| Date | Event | Venue | Country |
| 26/02/2017 | CISM World Winter Games | Sochi | Russia |
| 25-26/03/2017 | Studio Bloc Masters | Pfungstadt | Germany |
| 21-23/07/2017 | The World Games | Wroclaw | Poland |
| 25-26/05/2017 | ROCKMASTER | Arco | Italy |
The two World Games events feature Lead, Speed and Bouldering but I don't know if they are stand alone competitions or combined like the Olympics proposal.
The World Games have stand alone medals but possibly also a Combined medal like in Paris.
The CWIF will also be on the Calendar when I remember to ask. It will be 18/19 March and already the line up is looking promising - McColl, Hojer, Kruder (x2), Gejo, Chon, Le Neve, Klingler have all said they will be coming.
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Good CWIM line up!
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Late to the party, but just caught up on IFSC Paris and Rockmasters too.
Agree with everyone the Women's IFSC final was ace - W3 was sooooo close to being done, which would've flipped the contest on its head and W4 was a fantastic problem. Seen a couple of those toe-hook-catch moves recently, really interesting.
Only minor grumble was lack of crowd noise on the audio. Packed stadium, and kept on being told "the crowd are on their feet" but there didn't seem to be any ambient noise in the live feed - so felt a little stale.
Route-setter co-commentator was good IMO, Stasa was interesting too - though all were guilty of talking over attempts...
Rockmasters was ace. Again, women's final was a real nail-biter, and Men's was just insane - Jan got out-Jan'd! Good commentary from Liam and Shauna too.
Top stuff.
Take Rockmasters production, stick it on IFSC and you have a winner. I guess this would also require Rockmasters' budget, so not likely to happen.
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Late to the party, but just caught up on IFSC Paris and Rockmasters too.
Agree with everyone the Women's IFSC final was ace - W3 was sooooo close to being done, which would've flipped the contest on its head and W4 was a fantastic problem. Seen a couple of those toe-hook-catch moves recently, really interesting.
Only minor grumble was lack of crowd noise on the audio. Packed stadium, and kept on being told "the crowd are on their feet" but there didn't seem to be any ambient noise in the live feed - so felt a little stale.
Route-setter co-commentator was good IMO, Stasa was interesting too - though all were guilty of talking over attempts...
Rockmasters was ace. Again, women's final was a real nail-biter, and Men's was just insane - Jan got out-Jan'd! Good commentary from Liam and Shauna too.
Top stuff.
Take Rockmasters production, stick it on IFSC and you have a winner. I guess this would also require Rockmasters' budget, so not likely to happen.
I heard Rockstars costs around 600,000 Euros, which is significantly more than any World Cup.
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:blink:
Yowzers. They must be hoping to sell a LOT of shoes
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Although on that note, I wonder why Adidas or other big players (e.g. over-caffeinated cow-stomach-bile drink) haven't looked into funding the World Cup - or if they have, why they didn't.
I guess 9 rounds at €600,000 is quite an investment, but if they're happy to drop it for a one-off, it might be worth it for a season?
Maybe post 2020...
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I think they get more value for money by doing their own events/stuff.
Kailas, a Chinese brand do sponsor boulder world cups, and the fact you have not noticed shows the benefit of doing so.
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Oh, I was aware of them, just don't think you can even buy it in they uk? Though haven't actually looked..
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I think they get more value for money by doing their own events/stuff.
Kailas, a Chinese brand do sponsor boulder world cups, and the fact you have not noticed shows the benefit of doing so.
Kailas sponsor the whole World Cups, not just boulder. But they do it for exposure in their main market, which is China. They are in their 3rd season so I guess they think they get value for their money.
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https://www.instagram.com/p/BMjrg9njEAm/
Melissa's retired from WCs
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:'( :wub:
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My feelings exactly... :wub:
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So she'll be spending more time down my way working AD
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Just what I thought Muench!
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TBH, it didn't sound too good in the planetgrimpe-interview. Unable to do harder physical training than walking for a month after Bercy, unusual injuries... I hope it's not overtraining.
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Tara Hayes got silver and William Bosi got Bronze in the bouldering at the World Youth Championships in China!
Outstanding!!