[rossydoodle61]

Quality is good on that link, thank god. Hopefully it doesn't cut out again. What a shambles...

[Footwork]

cheers! Doesn't look like Ty made it

[Duma]

Shauna did though! get in!

[Eddies]

I can't get any of the links to work!!

[Footwork]

[rossydoodle61]

This is the latest one, working for me.

[Duma]

Get in!

[bigironhorse]

Shauna wins, great effort! Ty had some good efforts too, especially on p4..

[a dense loner]

Cheers for that link, couldn't be bothered watching to the end tho

[GraemeA]

It is a new company doing the streaming this year.

I can't comment publicly on what I thought about the streaming etc or other stuff.

But I can say that Jens on 8a.nu is talking his normal bollocks. Ty could have won if he did P4 in short time.

It was a good comp, tense to the end for the men and for the women it was tense until Melissa climbed.

I have a few other gripes about the way things were done but they are for a private email to the IFSC.

[Duma]

Thanks for the info Graeme, appreciated. Thought it was good bar the streaming issues, would have been nice to see a top on M4 and/or W4 too.

Was interesting to see how the young guns were crushing in the semis / qualifying, but faded by the finals - do you think the likes of Shauna and Melissa do specific work to deal with the format of the WCs (qualifying one afternoon then a hard morning and evening session the next day), or is it just the adrenaline etc is more draining the first couple of times you make the finals?

[Duma]

Oh and like every WC I've ever watched, I was still yelling at the screen when others were climbing but the shot stayed with someone who just fallen, or was chalking up etc.

[ghisino]

Jens on 8a.nu is talking his normal bollocks

I sometimes wonder if his "upside down theory" has a small element of truth.
Alban Levier was talking in a video itw about listening to "painfully loud" music in isolation so he wouldn't hear the crowd and guess what climbers before him were doing.
And i wonder what happens if the athlete climbing before you is a thin-skinned hold greaser, making 5+ attempts?

Loosely related
Wondering what happened with janja garnbret. Can't decide if
a) her controlled "let's chalk up mid crux and lock it off statically" style only works up to a certain intensity...make it a tiny bit harder, ask her to take some risks, and she isn't ready.
b) it's just lack of experience.

other note:
french climbers picking a beta and getting stubborn with it, right or wrong. Alban Levier and Clementine Kaiser... wonder if other finalists had the same problem (only seen bits of the comp).

[r-man]

Thanks for the info Graeme, appreciated. Thought it was good bar the streaming issues, would have been nice to see a top on M4 and/or W4 too.

Was interesting to see how the young guns were crushing in the semis / qualifying, but faded by the finals - do you think the likes of Shauna and Melissa do specific work to deal with the format of the WCs (qualifying one afternoon then a hard morning and evening session the next day), or is it just the adrenaline etc is more draining the first couple of times you make the finals?

I wondered about that. Was expecting Jam Jar to crush after looking much stronger than everyone else in the semis, but she must have used up all her jam.

Commentator had never heard of a drop-knee. Very odd. Shame the French route setter who did half the semis didn't return, he was good.

Fairly interesting overall. Not the most exciting, but intriguing to see the new crop of younger women challenging the established elite.

[mr__j5]

Alban Levier was talking in a video itw about listening to "painfully loud" music in isolation so he wouldn't hear the crowd and guess what climbers before him were doing.

For quite a while now, I've felt that in the finals especially that the climbers should be forced to now all the scores along the way so some element of mental pressure can be put on them.

Like there would have to be a results screen staring them in the face in isolation.

However, it seems far too often that the electronic scoring stops for a while, that this probably couldn't happen yet.

[Muenchener]

Like there would have to be a results screen staring them in the face in isolation.

They don't even manage to get a results screen staring spectators & stream viewers in the face most of the time.

[iwasmexican]

Jens on 8a.nu is talking his normal bollocks

I sometimes wonder if his "upside down theory" has a small element of truth.

I think more than anything the holds being consistently used for 20 odd minutes beforehand plays a big part in this, I mean even if they are getting brushed they're still going to heat up and world cup holds don't tend to be very incut...

[GraemeA]

Jens on 8a.nu is talking his normal bollocks

I sometimes wonder if his "upside down theory" has a small element of truth.

I think more than anything the holds being consistently used for 20 odd minutes beforehand plays a big part in this, I mean even if they are getting brushed they're still going to heat up and world cup holds don't tend to be very incut...

Jens talks bollocks because he cherry picks his stats and ignores all other considerations.

Eg 1 the stats will not show that if Ty had done P4 1st or 2nd try then he won thus disproving the upside down nonsense.

Eg 2 Shauna has won 4 times now, twice from 1st in the semi, once from 5th and once from 6th. Hardly conclusive evidence for anything other than the theory is there is bugger all correlation between start position and final ranking.

Eg 3 In the CWIF you know that you are either getting the slab in the semi or in the final (likewise with the vert return on the other side). So if you get the slab in the semi and are good at them then you might qualify highly but do badly in the final because your forte is missing. This type of thing happens at most World Cups

[Footwork]

The French are off to a good start  Akiyo looked tired, wonder if it's an indication for the season or just one of those days. Home crowd next week though which might give her a boost.

Good to have the young guns Megan and Janja snapping at the heels of the usual podium finishers. Should keep the pressure on. Ty throwing his shoes on the floor after M2, he did not look happy.

[ghisino]

.

Eg 3 In the CWIF you know that you are either getting the slab in the semi or in the final (likewise with the vert return on the other side). So if you get the slab in the semi and are good at them then you might qualify highly but do badly in the final because your forte is missing. This type of thing happens at most World Cups

Which might offer a "c" explanation to my JG mistery

Potentially endless topic.
Making it simple, lets say we only have 2 styles, slab and compression. Only two rounds, each one heavily skewed in one direction

Which one is the best comp: the one selecting the best slabber among compressors, or the one selecting the best compressor among slabbers?

[a dense loner]

Have you been drinking?

[GraemeA]

Have you been drinking?

Of course 

[cha1n]

Yeh, whilst I'm very appreciative of the live streams it'd be nice to get:

- Split screens.
- A presenter who actually knows something about climbing and can commentate.

I never saw the commentator but it sounded like the annoying epictv presenter.

*EDIT* toned down attack on epic tv presenter.

[bigironhorse]

Yeh, whilst I'm very appreciative of the live streams it'd be nice to get:

- Split screens.
- A presenter who actually knows something about climbing and can commentate.

I never saw the commentator but it sounded like the annoying epictv presenter.

*EDIT* toned down attack on epic tv presenter.

They sometimes have split screens for semis as there are so many climbers out but not in the finals. I don't think it would be necessary in the final if they would avoid broadcasting climbers resting/chalking up whilst there is another climber on the wall. I think the problem with the commentary is that they always seem to target it towards people who know little/nothing about climbing or comps even though 99% of viewers must know at least the basics of what is going on.

[a dense loner]

There is also the fact that no one who doesn't climb is going to watch a climbing comp, by that I mean with no association to climbing. So why do they cater primarily for these people? Fair enough if it's part of some massive thing, say the olympics, but it never is.