[Andy F V2.0]

Shauna's missed the cut 

[fatneck]

Yeah, seemed below par!

[lagerstarfish]

thought I was watching the last comp - W4 looks very familiar

[Footwork]

Finals are live now and mens 1 looks brutal

[a dense loner]

Fatneck what do you mean wise? That's almost exactly what mccoll said! They may as well not have had the 4 easy problems and just said here's a jump if you do it you're going through

[bigironhorse]

I thought that was a pretty good comp, good separation of the climbers and some interesting problems. Boscoe's grip of the rules leaves a little to be desired though..

[highrepute]

Also thought it was good.

[fatneck]

Fatneck what do you mean wise? That's almost exactly what mccoll said! They may as well not have had the 4 easy problems and just said here's a jump if you do it you're going through

Hi Lee, basically I'm a cock and obviously still suffering the ignominy of being neutered... 

[a dense loner]

Oh cum on

[SA Chris]

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=70457

Does Rubtsov have a tiny head, or is it just far away?

[Durbs]

Atmosphere-wise, I thought it was the best yet; good crowd, lighting, an excited co-commentator.

The Women's was let down by poor setting IMO - 6 tops out of 24 possible is pretty low. Looking at the semis and quali results seemed they hadn't quite judged the level right with either a flash-fest or too hard.

The Men's, felt for Rustam who nearly got M1 and and M3 and his final position didn't show this - but it was a closely fought battle

Enough of the run-and-jumps - just seems like a lazy way to split the competitors on attempts. This one in particular was worse in that once you'd made the bonus, the top was a given.

But yeah, good round

[finbarrr]

My dislike for "run-n-jumps" was bad enough just looking at them and imagining having to do them.
Now my boulder gym is setting them more and more.
I feel like a proper angry old man (wasn't there an emoticon for that), but if I wanted to do parkour I would not pay for a boulder gym.
Also Rubtsov seemed very annoyed by the run and jump in the Mumbai  final

[Oldmanmatt]

My dislike for "run-n-jumps" was bad enough just looking at them and imagining having to do them.
Now my boulder gym is setting them more and more.
I feel like a proper angry old man (wasn't there an emoticon for that), but if I wanted to do parkour I would not pay for a boulder gym.
Also Rubtsov seemed very annoyed by the run and jump in the Mumbai  final

We are constantly being requested to set more Parkour style problems.
It's what the majority want, Dynos and jumps; suddenly everyone's a Ninja.

[Muenchener]

Tell 'em to f*ck off, then cover the walls with tiny scrittly crimps.

[ghisino]

I am shit at parkour style problems, not good at dynos either but hey...they are FUN!!!

That said i believe one of the features of a good gym is offering balanced circuits...a bit of everything, much like a good comp round.

[duncan]

I feel like a proper angry old man (wasn't there an emoticon for that), but if I wanted to do parkour I would not pay for a boulder gym.

Hey, I'm the angry old man in the village! (signature is a gif)

The Building One version of The Arch in London had parkour circuits when it first opened. Fred Stone is an astute chap and I'm sure it's in response to demand, the place is reportedly rammed. I think they are crap (and not just because I'm rubbish at them) and I've not been back.

Running and jumping is eye catching and attractive to non-specialists so I'm sure there will be much more setting like this if the IFSC and interested parties want mainstream attention and money.

[Coops_13]

I feel like a proper angry old man (wasn't there an emoticon for that), but if I wanted to do parkour I would not pay for a boulder gym.

Hey, I'm the angry old man in the village! (signature is a gif)

The Building One version of The Arch in London had parkour circuits when it first opened. Fred Stone is an astute chap and I'm sure it's in response to demand, the place is reportedly rammed. I think they are crap (and not just because I'm rubbish at them) and I've not

They've stopped setting them as parkour now as there were a few broken legs I think. Now just normal [emoji106]

[fried]

I don't want my wall's setter who's on the French team getting any more of a fondness for running and jumping. if only they appreciated how little I want to sprain an ankle climbing indoors.

Got to be a market for an old folks climbing wall made of bendcrete, crimps,and  bits of wood, where all the problems are solved statically and dynos are banned.

[r-man]

Enough of the run-and-jumps - just seems like a lazy way to split the competitors on attempts. This one in particular was worse in that once you'd made the bonus, the top was a given.

As confirmed by the guest commentator route setter, it seems the prevailing opinion is that running and dyno problems are a good way to split the competitors.

From the audience's perspective, yes it may be an effective way of doing it, but it's not always a good way of doing it. We want to see people separated by climbing ability, not the roll of a dice on an easy but low percentage move.

Which doesn't mean they shouldn't set them ever, just that their frequency seems a little high sometimes.

[AlistairB]

I feel like a proper angry old man (wasn't there an emoticon for that), but if I wanted to do parkour I would not pay for a boulder gym.

Hey, I'm the angry old man in the village! (signature is a gif)

The Building One version of The Arch in London had parkour circuits when it first opened. Fred Stone is an astute chap and I'm sure it's in response to demand, the place is reportedly rammed. I think they are crap (and not just because I'm rubbish at them) and I've not

They've stopped setting them as parkour now as there were a few broken legs I think. Now just normal [emoji106]

I'm not surprised if they've gone, I remember seeing the original video and thinking that it was going to lead to a lot of people hurting themselves. Specifically the wall to wall jumps they set, massive potential for awkward twisting/spinning/flailing falls.

I did quite a lot of parkour before I climbed and you either need a solidish landing so that you're under no illusions of the consequences of failure or a foam pit which will actually protect against the kind of falls you can take when those sort of moves go wrong. People, in particular newer climbers have way too much faith in indoor climbing wall mats. For parkour falls they have enough give to often make twisting/sideways forces worse but nowhere near enough to actually dissipate the force safely like a foam pit. On a similar note, massive sideways jumps at the tops of problems (this isn't with particular reference to BWC setting) are also a terrible idea that shouldn't be allowed to spread.

So yeah, despite the parkour background I'd actually rather that we kept the parkour movements out of climbing. It's fine to take some inspiration now and then but climbing walls really aren't set up for parkour and your average participant isn't very aware of the different risks associated with the movements. And back on topic, with regards to the BWC, I find it very disappointing when there's a running jump that actually decides the outcome.

[Durbs]

As confirmed by the guest commentator route setter, it seems the prevailing opinion is that running and dyno problems are a good way to split the competitors.

They work for this purpose, but not sure I'd go as far as "good". Any low percentage move would do. I'd rather a double-dyno/campus over a run-and-jump because it's at least more "climby".

[lagerstarfish]

off-width or flared cracks might be another way to split the field

[dave]

Or a long problem where they have to continually hold their breath whilst uttering the word "kabaddi".

[lagerstarfish]

old school brick edge mantles

yeah, that'll sort the wheat from the chaff

[Durbs]

I did like the inclusion of the hand-jam on M1,