[Muenchener]

Back & foot v-chimneys. Painted gloss.

[lagerstarfish]

there was some easy jamming at FBO16 - it was interesting to see some very stylish laybacking to avoid it

[tomtom]

There are other sports, where the style or type of course can favour one strength over another - I'm thinking of...

Downhill ski-ing
Cycling (BMX, MTB, road..)

(there are probably others)...

Given the long standing nature of many of these sports (esp ski-ing) there must be some regulations/standardisation of what/how the course is set? Maybe the IFSC people could look/learn from that?

[ghisino]

I love cracks and i've even set an inverted hand+foot jam at a contest recently, but i don't think they are particularly low percentage when you are used to them. They work because they are not a major trend...

Odd flared squeeze/OW/palming and pushing things without a defined beta have more chances in This regard,imho. And weren't they popular a few years ago????

[SA Chris]

There are other sports, where the style or type of course can favour one strength over another - I'm thinking of...

Downhill ski-ing
Cycling (BMX, MTB, road..)

(there are probably others)...

Just about everything on a non-standardised playing field? There have recently been some examples of poorly prepared pitches in cricket internationals where they gave one team a bigger advantage. I think that given the wealth of experience in many of these sports though, there is a general concensus on what good looks like by now.

[Muenchener]

Just booked the hotel in Innsbruck for me & the lad at the weekend.

Hoping the forecast 25 degrees will be bit more amenable for Shauna.

[Coops_13]

I love cracks and i've even set an inverted hand+foot jam at a contest recently, but i don't think they are particularly low percentage when you are used to them.

I really enjoyed the one at the CWIF

[jwi]

Best final so far this year. At least for the men. The Fuji/Narasaki showdown was great.

[a dense loner]

Is that a mountain range?

[Coops_13]

Are there two separate sets of boulders for each of the two qualification rounds? As it seems like one set in Innsbruck is significantly harder than the other? Tyler with t45 5b6 doesn't look like he's making it through to semis with competitors with 3 tops making it through in the other round?

[standard]

yes.
meanwhile Nathan Philips is having a blinder, and Barrans has qualified too?
http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition#!comp=1637&cat=6

[a dense loner]

2 separate sets of boulders? Just when you thought it couldn't get anymore farcical. Never mind at least it'll be a good final. Although just thought will the finalists be climbing the same boulders or will they each have 4 different problems to try?

Is that how you spell separate? I'm losing it thanks to the ifsc

[SA Chris]

Yeah blame the IFSC.

[sxrxg]

Looks like some big names have missed out on the semis: Tyler, Rustam, Jakob, Jan.

[Coops_13]

Looks like some big names have missed out on the semis: Tyler, Rustam, Jakob, Jan.

Is one of the qualification groups more full of stronger climbers than the other?

[r-man]

Fairly normal to have two different sets of boulders in qualis?

Is one of the qualification groups more full of stronger climbers than the other?

They are seperated evenly by ranking aren't they?

Of the bigger names who failed to make semis...

Jan, Tyler, Rustam in quali 1

Jorg, Jeremy, Jakob in quali 2

[Grubes]

well done nathan   

[Muenchener]

2 separate sets of boulders? Just when you thought it couldn't get anymore farcical.

It's pretty common in comps with lots of people Dense.

Of course it wouldn't be the worst idea if the two sets were at least roughly the same difficulty, which doesn't quite seem to have worked here.

[a dense loner]

People listen to kylie, doesn't make it right

[GraemeA]

Looks like some big names have missed out on the semis: Tyler, Rustam, Jakob, Jan.

Is one of the qualification groups more full of stronger climbers than the other?

Competitors in Group 1 = ranked 1, 4, 5, 8, 9 etc
Competitors in Group 2 = ranked 2, 3, 6, 7 etc

[r-man]

So...

Group 1 = 1st,  +3, +1, +3, +1

Group 2 = 2nd, +1, +3, +1, +3

I'm sure there's a reason I'm not aware of, but why not just split into odd and even numbers?

[lagerstarfish]

that's just what they'd expect you to do

[Fiend]

Mumbai was decent, some pretty cool climbing. M1 was a great gimmick problem, M2 was a terrible gimmick problem. Women's generally looked proper good but maybe a bit hard? Co-commentator was good. Event seemed surprisingly perky given the location - credit where it's due they did a good job despite the heat.

[GraemeA]

So...

Group 1 = 1st,  +3, +1, +3, +1

Group 2 = 2nd, +1, +3, +1, +3

I'm sure there's a reason I'm not aware of, but why not just split into odd and even numbers?

Look at the sum of the rankings and you will see that it evens out.

[r-man]

Edit: ah, I see what you're getting at - the odd and even numbers split doesn't add up to equally weighted groups.