maybe your belief that you SHOULD be able to climb v6 is the issue,you might just be putting to much pressure on your self.
Quote from: Dylan on June 18, 2008, 01:23:21 amTabata didn't test squats AFAIKhttp://www.pponline.co.uk/encyc/0145.htmyou're correct its some chat waterbury variation that I read on figureathlete or something I think...I still can't see how you can relate it to climbing, you can't exactly spring on a board, so do you go from doing a fr5 circuit to doing your max boulder problem then back or something? still not quite seeing how it would work anyway that's an aside.
Tabata didn't test squats AFAIKhttp://www.pponline.co.uk/encyc/0145.htm
Quote from: webbo on June 18, 2008, 03:33:59 pmmaybe your belief that you SHOULD be able to climb v6 is the issue,you might just be putting to much pressure on your self.Good point! Maybe I should just chill a bit, put the work in while enjoying myself and it'll come with the increased volumes that I'm already doing.
On a mental flava, I'd recommend getting hold of 'The Rock Warrior's Way'. I'm reading it at the moment and it's given me a lot of insight into what I do to myself while I'm climbing. Health warning - it can be a bit cheesy in a bit of an Oprah kind of way, but if you can look past that I think there's value in it.Oh yeah. And do some pullups too.
why dont you go an buy Horst as well
I was joking. Just to make sure people understand the sentiment: Don't buy Horst. Just Don't
Do you climb on your own? If you do, find other people to try problems with and work out what they doing.
Does anyone rate Horst? Far as I can see, it's just a long-winded way of describing system board training with weights.
There's something I don't understand and would like some help with please.I want to put more load through the parts that count when I'm bouldering on plastic. But I'm having problems working out what is stopping me.I have reasonable arm-strength (can hold footless one-arm 90 degree lock for a second each side), and can crimp okay, hang and dyamically latch small holds.But still I find:1) difficulty doing problems longer than 2-4 moves on the 50 degree wall2) difficulty finding suitable 'threshold' boulder problems. V2 is a grade I can easily do 4 x 4's on. V3+ is a grade I can onsight with good control indoors. So I ought to be able to benefit from threshold bouldering on the odd V6s. Here I'm often blown by limitations in my movement repertoire but can latch holds and move between them somehow or other.Any other ideas?I'm never going to be the best boulderer but we all like to release our maximum potential, right?
in reply to carefultorque-You Don't do pull ups, but you can do 14!?!?You must have some natural strength then, I reckon. I can barely do 10 pull ups some days, in fact some days i struggle to do 5!My pull up ability has always been shit, even when I had half decent power endurance (after doing burly traverses at woodwell).Are pull ups really that important?
In terms of movement on a 50 board, a good default technique to work from is to keep your hips (and free leg) into the wall as much as poss throughout moves, drop a knee and twist into the move where possible, and stare out the hold you're going for (makes a lot of difference!). Kind of applies on all angles but becomes most apparent the steeper it gets.
I would suspect your shoulder girdle is letting you down. If the board is a true 50 then each move is going to require a very large element of one-arm strength. Now you obviously have some as you can lock off for one second. However as you have found you don't have enough and you've used your second of strength up by 2-4 moves in! Prob best way to make gains at your level is by doing sets of offset pull-ups and frenchies (working up to offset frenchies!). These will give you a bit of an arm and upper back workout with enough volume to have power-endurance benefits while going someway to targeting one-arm and locking strength respectively. [/quote author=Nigel link=topic=9397.msg152589#msg152589 date=1213906636]Thanks!! I think you could be on to something here. I will start to throw a few offset pulls and frenchies into the mix for six weeks and see where that gets me.I should have said that there aren't any problems on the 50 degree wall lower than font 7b.
Quote from: Nigel on June 19, 2008, 09:17:16 pmIn terms of movement on a 50 board, a good default technique to work from is to keep your hips (and free leg) into the wall as much as poss throughout moves, drop a knee and twist into the move where possible, and stare out the hold you're going for (makes a lot of difference!). Kind of applies on all angles but becomes most apparent the steeper it gets.I can imagine big malc reading this whilst tutting and shaking his head
No because there are a million other ways that are better