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weakness mystery (Read 15437 times)

fx

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#50 Re: weakness mystery
July 14, 2008, 09:40:04 pm
hey mate

i think you d get most out of your training time by doing easier boulders and while doing them totally concentrate on technical aspects, i e drop knee, twisting and especially body wave (hope, the translations are right :-) ).
and i think, at least for stuff up to v5, pull up strength doesnt count much, you can close to always find a technical way, with that you can solve the problem... and with fourteen pullups youre pretty good, so no worries about that...  i d start to train for one arm pullups or to maximize my one arm locking power... endurance is best gained by climbing long long long boulders (easy stuff, 30-50 moves)...
in case i understood your problem in the right way, you cannot develop enough power/speed/momentum to get from the starting hold to the target? so you probably need to improve your dynamic climbing/body wave (or however it s called, when you initiate the move from your feet over your hips and then use the gained momentum to latch the next hold)... if this is the case, there s a pretty nice training for novices to this technique. get a pull up bar and a chair, put your feet up onto the chair, so that your body will be more or less horizontal (with outstretched arms), then lower your hip and snatch it up. in the moment you re feeling your body getting light you reach out with one hand to a target hold (imagenary or another pullup bar, a part of your door case or whatever). by this training, which isnt hard at all, you ll develop a feeling for this technique which will make it much easier to implement it onto the rock...
hope this helps :-) also, sure, try to lose some weight (in case you have a belly :-D)

cheers
felix

 

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