How many one armers per arm?How many pull ups on jugs?How many pulls ups on a small rung?What is the smallest hold you can hang one arm open or 3 fingers? What can you campus at the moment?Can you do front levers at the moment? if so, for how long? What weight can you load onto yourself and still do a pull up on a small rung? QuoteI'm guessing from your lock strength theres going to be a whole lot of things you can work on, whether or not they're the best use of your time is another question.What's making you fall off on those steep problems? wildly bicycling feet?
I'm guessing from your lock strength theres going to be a whole lot of things you can work on, whether or not they're the best use of your time is another question.What's making you fall off on those steep problems? wildly bicycling feet?
How many pull-ups can you do?
I don't do pull ups.
Quote from: carefultorque on June 17, 2008, 10:01:39 pmI don't do pull ups.There in lies the problem. Do some sets of pull ups every day for a week and you will see a massive improvement
is there SCIENCE behind this claim?
Quote from: carefultorque on June 17, 2008, 10:15:10 pmis there SCIENCE behind this claim? Possibly not, but there's LOGIC.
Fingerboard exercises, locking exercises (bar/campus), core or PE training (4x4,Tabata, volume etc), technique drillsHope this helps you figure it out
It's hard to say what your weakness is without seeing you climb, but consider..........What is letting you down on steeper angles? Holding on, moving between the holds, keeping your feet on, PE or technique to get to the top?Hope this helps you figure it out
Sounds like you might be struggling to initiate the movements? (That's my interpretation of what you said, correct me if I'm wrong)Two thoughts:-technique shizzle, initiating with legs/anything else good climbers do- lack of power (rather than static strength) - do some campussing or summat instead of lock work?{Disclaimer: most people on here know more than me about training/being strong than me, so probably best to take their word for it if they contradict me.}Other question: How long have you been climbing for?
Sounds like you might be struggling to initiate the movements? (That's my interpretation of what you said, correct me if I'm wrong)
I probably still move like an E3/E4 climber
Tabata didn't test squats AFAIKhttp://www.pponline.co.uk/encyc/0145.htm
You still don't say how long you have been at it for? I think getting on outdoor rock as much as possible and doing mileage across all rock types / styles / grades is required to build a decent base repertoire of technique/s.
how many times a week do you climb.i would suggest you just cilmb more and it will start to fall in to place.at the level your at i doubt getting all scientific with supplementry training is gonna help that much.