[Pantontino]

Mr Golden Heels has climbed another slate project:



Full story:

http://www.groundupclimbing.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=205

Jack Geldard has also covered it on UKC:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=287683

[Doylo]

good work peter, he's had a good start to the year!

[Houdini]

Amazing, isn't it?  How the sound of jungle drums distort w/ time . . .


The most I ever did for that line was:   let it be known it existed;  name it;  put the top inspection/working bolt in;  and offer another bolt in a bloc at the top of the level above to enable an abseil.  Oh I took a reasonable amount of loose rock off it too.  I bolted it about half an hour before I did Song of the Minerals in '89 (I had a thing about aretes at the time . . . )

I never once tried the moves, not once.  Truth is, my vision lies unrealised taking the arete on it's left overhanging side - not the slab to the right.  Pete bolted it, and finally all the hard work has payed off.  It's 100% his very own route. 

Effort youth!     Time to get stuck into something hard now    Beers fine wine is on me when I return to The Village of the Damned.

(I'm convinced w/ another 8 years of solid powerball I can cream the arete on it's left (pinches/cheval) at 8c+/9a.  Watch this space, just be sure to blink occassionally.)

[Pantontino]

Pete told me there are no holds on the left side of the arete (and it certainly looked that way when I was up there last). How did you propose to climb it - with sink plungers perchance? 

(PS. I've tweaked the news item to ensure historical accuracy regarding your fleeting involvement with said line. Apologies for any distress the original item may have caused.)

[Houdini]

No distress, merely amusement.

Proposal?  Pinching the arete till it bled, and clamping all the way, possibly weaving around the arete as one went.  I recall there being one or two holds on the left side, or perhaps even fabricating holds (?)  It could well be impossible on the left. Nevertheless, I left the country if I recall, then gave up roped climbing for good soon after.

[Houdini]

Which is hardly the fucking point!


Point is, this is one of the most aesthetic lines I've ever seen - it blows Bungle's Arete, Dragonslayer and Il Migliore Fabbro out of the water.  The climbing is full-on, with some extremely difficult moves for the medium.  I thought there might actually be a little more competition for the line from Gelderd and Hocking . . .

Si, do you have a more head on pic of the arete?  Those generally interested in the line should check out the Quarries as you head towards Llanberis from the Pass or vice versa when the afternoon sun is on it.  It's directly above the farthest right winding house. You'll not see a more obvious or striking line.  I'm excited for Pete, very fin de siecle and hopefully onward to greater challenges; of which there are many in Dinorwig.

Tick's Groove anyone?  (Surely this must fall next?)

[Pantontino]

Your wish is my command...



The light/shadow arete of The New Slatesman can clearly be seen up and right of the winding house.

[Pantontino]

And if you look very closely you'll see Ben Bransby tussling with the groove of Rowan just to the left.

[Houdini]

Amazing, isn't it?  How the brain distorts w/ drugs . . .

. . . in '89 (I had a thing about drugs at the time . . . )

*cough*

It was August 1998 . . .

Ball & Chain really, just say no, children.  Nice pic by-the-by.  The one on UKC is poor, hope Mondo will be taking a shot at it.

[Jaspersharpe]

Amazing, isn't it?  How the brain distorts w/ drugs . . .

. . . in '89 (I had a thing about drugs at the time . . . )

*cough*

It was August 1998 . . .

Ball & Chain really, just say no, children. 

  Some of my memories may be slightly fuddled in a similar fashion but I generally get the decade right.


That is some line.

[Pantontino]

I was thinking that there might be potential for a front cover shot for the new Slate guide - go back early morning and catch the light on the right side of the arete.

I've got Gill's shot of Song of the Minerals by the way. A fine image.

[Houdini]

That?  Yeah it's not bad (should do too as it was taken w/ a medium format camera that looked as costly as a new car) - & no logos, which is fantastic.

Use it however (caveat:  front, back or inside covers and I'll burn your haus down  always fancied a centerspread meself 

Do you know if a better photographer will shoot Pete on it?  Deserves b/w film.

[Houdini]

FAO ~ Ed. Mick Ryan / Ass. Ed. Jack Gelerd (Who will read this eventually.)

I'm really not happy w/ my name being on the front page of your website.  Please remove it ASAP.  On The Edge has never heard of this line (pre or post ascent) that's a different WAY harder line.  Thanks, but no thanks, there are too many inaccuracies in your story for words.  Please don't print my name ever again.

(Sorry for the hi-jack Peter, back over to you, fella.)

[Fiend]

On, the plus side, Riddim Puss, you are a "talented climber" 

P.S. This route looks good.

[Houdini]

I'm a better runner & vegetarian cook, and I do a great Foot on the Seat - Busby . . .

Who gives a fuck?   

The route is  m i n d b l o w i n g .  Robins is a  w a d .

[GCW]

I'm a better runner & vegetarian cook, and I do a great Foot on the Seat - Busby . . .

I preferred your earlier work with the Ministry.

Looks a great line (and this coming from someone that doesn't do routes.   

[Houdini]

I've met more than one namesake.  I'm more handsome than all 

Really must get my Thin Lash out on EP.


Rowan on this buttress is also an excellent line.  I found this abandoned line in '97 w/ a brass mashie in the groove.  I left it alone and kept schtum about it as it was clearly someones failed attempt. I'd love to hear from anyone who may have any information about this.  Think it goes at, what?  7c+.  I hear it's a mammoth move, too.    Pete's on fire.

When you see this line face on you will understand...  It's killer.  Bet Caff is on it now.

[Pantontino]

Do you know if a better photographer will shoot Pete on it?  Deserves b/w film.

That is a bit ungracious Paul, given that the existing shots by Jack and Gareth were taken in bad light conditions and are genuine 'in the moment' first ascent photographs.

As for having your name on the news page at UKC - does it really matter?

[Paul B]

Is it just me that likes the UKC photo of the line? 

[Fiend]

I quite like it but prefer the original (and agree with SAChris's comments, just a bit of saturation and b/c needed). A great pose / angle tho.

[abarro81]

Is it just me that likes the UKC photo of the line? 

I'd agree that it's better than the ones on groundup...

[Houdini]

Ungracious?  Graciousness has never had anything to do w/ the expression of an honest opinion and everything to do w/ massaging fragile ego's and walking on eggshells, graciousness can bend down and kiss my ass.  I think it's a poor shot, it may be of the moment but it's nothing special.  Ray's Trauma pic is of the moment, also in poor light and it's brilliant.  As for UKC I'd prefer not to read my name in print regarding things I never did on a commercial website run by a  c u n t.  (Excuse me if I'm coming across as ungracious here).  I thought you cared about the historical record?    If I wanted to use my christened name I would instead of the dead American's I currently do.   

I just though that since this is the hardest proudest line in years that a real peach of a pic should be taken, not for the press, but for Pete's grandchildren.

*touches wood*

[Johnny Brown]

Is it just me that likes the UKC photo of the line?  shrug

I'd agree that it's better than the ones on groundup...

I wouldn't agree. A better angle, perhaps, but I prefer the way the ground-up ones have been reproduced.

Houdini, knowing Mick as little as I do (I've met him twice), and knowing you as I do (just based on your posts on here), I'd rather go on holiday with him. He is not a cunt, and you should be aware that your web 'personality' does not (I hope) accurately portray your real one.

[Pantontino]

Ungracious?  Graciousness has never had anything to do w/ the expression of an honest opinion and everything to do w/ massaging fragile ego's and walking on eggshells, graciousness can bend down and kiss my ass.  I think it's a poor shot, it may be of the moment but it's nothing special.  Ray's Trauma pic is of the moment, also in poor light and it's brilliant.  As for UKC I'd prefer not to read my name in print regarding things I never did on a commercial website run by a  c u n t.  (Excuse me if I'm coming across as ungracious here).  I thought you cared about the historical record?    If I wanted to use my christened name I would instead of the dead American's I currently do.   

I just though that since this is the hardest proudest line in years that a real peach of a pic should be taken, not for the press, but for Pete's grandchildren.

*touches wood*

If pics like Ray's one of Trauma were common place your sniping would (almost) be justified, but they are not. Off the top of my head the only other example of an amazing first ascent shot in recent times is JB's of Appointment with Death at Wimberry. Both of these pics are stunning and a credit to the photographer's skill, but such results are rare.

Personally I'm grateful that Gareth and Jack were there, and whilst you might not like the results I reckon they did a good job at capturing 'the moment'. Of course there have been discussions about a return for an early morning shot in good light - but whether that works out remains to be seen.

From a news point of view it is interesting that someone else (namely you) inspected the line and placed the bolt at the top of the route, and also named it, especially as the first ascencionist chose to keep your proposed name. Given that your involvement is newsworthy, are you seriously suggesting that Houdini is used instead of your real name?

[Greg C]

As for UKC I'd prefer not to read my name in print regarding things I never did on a commercial website run by a  c u n t.

On occasion Mick may well act like a five star tool on the interweb, he is not, however, a c**t. That sort of outburst does you no credit.