[grimer]

Exactly. Ray cites the Trauma pic as one of his best, when everything came together.

And well done Simon on the thankless task of posting news on NWB, it's a hard job well done.

On the other point, I know Mick, and I think he's a genuine and interesting person whose heart's in the right place. There is a fashion on here for calling him a cunt, and every time I see it, my opinion of those people who do it drops lower and lower and lower.

[Jaspersharpe]

I dont know Mick and as far as I'm aware I haven't called him a cunt. However with the whole "Yorkshire Bouldering Guide" incident he certainly displayed behaviour of an extremely cuntish nature. I can see why people would therefore choose to describe him as such (if it walks like a duck etc). I can also see why this would be distasteful to people who do know him and regard him as a decent bloke. It's all  anyways.

[dave]

people call mick that on here because of his long track record of what many regard as an absolutley appauling attitude and behaviour both on here and on UKC. if thats at odds with his real-life persona, then theres only him that can do anything about it. you can't blame anyone for judging a book by its cover but when the cover is all you're got to go on, and someones wiped the cover in dogshit, set fire to it and shoved it through your letterbox you've not got much option.

[Jaspersharpe]

..........which is basically what I was saying but not nearly as well.

[dave]

yeah, i think your post appeared just as i was posting mine. great minds etc.

[Fiend]

On the other point, I know Mick, and I think he's a genuine and interesting person whose heart's in the right place.

...wouldn't be the first word that came to my mind. The Tony Blair of the climbing community - more spin than a washing machine strapped to a ferris wheel. A large washing machine. With Scouse inside it, with his b0rked Powerball.

There is a fashion on here for calling him a cunt, and every time I see it, my opinion of those people who do it drops lower and lower and lower.

If one's opinion is going to be influenced by the impression someone gives of themselves on the internet (which I think is valid - internet behaviour is just another facet of a person), then I don't believe Mick escapes scot-free either.

I do think most of the accusations of cunthood appear when Mick makes a mockery of this site, or climbing internet sites and climbing internet journalism in general - rather than appearing out of thin air. Obviously not all the accusations though.

[SA Chris]

FWIW I can vouch for the fact that Mick (like most people I have met off the 'net) in real life is a genuinely sound and generous person, but something seems to take over when he is in front of a keyboard that totally does my head in, so much so that sometimes I swear it's a different person, it's almost like a dual personality.

[Houdini]

If saying that I'm not a fan can be called sniping, then fuck it.  Sniping it is.  Here in the real world, it's called criticism.  To say I don't like a certain piece of rock turns into an attack on the creativity of other people (!) I'd advise finding something other than climbing to occupy yourself w/, just a short break. You sound consumed, and this isn't the first time either...  You don't appear to have anything to say, Pantonandonandon.  Just stop.  You sound overworked.   Relax (and that's as a mate, not being patronising).

Dave is on the money w/ the c-word.  Fuck me, amongst my mates it's a term of endearment     

Dual personalities.  This is interesting.  You're onto something here, Chris. 

Anyway, great route.

[Houdini]

Sorry JB missed this earlier.

be aware that your web 'personality' does not (I hope) accurately portray your real one.

Really?  Thanks for pointing that elusive fact out, I'm overwhelmed I didn't realise this before...

As for what we know of each other we'd struggle to put that on a stamp.  Holidays?  I really don't give two hoots for who you would holiday w/.  I'm surprised.  How it can go from me saying I don't think a photo was much cop to this.  The internet is a barmy place, quite right too.

[Houdini]

. . . And no wonder, for Satan himself masquerades as an angel of light.

(Corinthians 11:14)

[GCW]

"And, lo!  He was strong"

Gaskins 7:23

[Houdini]

You mean Gaskins 1: 6: 10?

[grumpycrumpy]

Out of the two of them I think I'd rather go on holiday with Houdini .....

[account_inactive]

I'm confused.  When is this holiday?

Nice line BTW

[Drew]

Am I allowed to bring this thread back on topic? Or is going back to the original topic, somewhat off topic from the previous dozen posts? I'm confused!




Good effort Pete. Keeping the Llanberis scene alive and kicking (the Peak's arse)!

[grumpycrumpy]

It's a hypothetical holiday , and yes it was slightly off topic but was merely intended to show that contrary to some peoples beliefs I do read the whole thread ....
And yep it looks like a fantastic line ....Nice one Pete .....

[Houdini]

Personally, this thread lights my fire.


I love seeing people faced w/ reasonable choices/opinions/decisions ignore them completely and let loose like they mean it; get deep down and dirty and have a crack.  Top behaviour.  Such is life, it won't change or stay the same for my convenience.  (Ed.  And why should it, c*ntface?)

Quite . . .

(I find it peculiar that sloppy journalism persists when the facts are but a call, email, sms away.  Totally fucking lazy really.)

But in case you hadn't noticed, this thread has been checked close to what? 1700 times and w/ so few posts.  I think this is tip top publicity for an amazing line, and one that is so amenable to so many in these high performing times.  It consolidates Pete's position as slatehead #1 (or at least joint 1st) w/ a 2nd 8b - and I'm excited that such a neglected form - one that hasn't seen much press action since Jean Mihn Ping-Pong and Lard Ass were mincing in these parts looking for a good harvest.  There are so many wild lines here that you won't have seen or heard of, fantastic opportunities to push (what for me) is an equal of gritstone fully into the 21st Century.  Slate is fucking wicked, and if you don't know that you really missed out.

For the record:  I've been available for holiday between 6 and 8 months of every year for the last decade.  Always room for more.   

[Doylo]

Caff's just done his slate project, another hard 8b,

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/index.html#n42838

[Houdini]

Great news! 

There's so much to do in this hole, what a bonkers place.

Tick's Groove, c'mon, soon!



(1900 times)

[Houdini]

You know that The Meltdown remains entirely climable, don't you?  No ganster's tooth required.

[Jaspersharpe]

Is there some unwritten rule where nothing's allowed to be harder than 8b on slate? This "8b, hard 8b, top end 8b" etc bollocks sounds like it is just that. I would wager that both these amazing looking routes are at least 8b+. In fact wasn't The New Slatesman described as a 7c with a 7C+ boulder problem on top of it? That doesn't sound like 8b to me. It was also mentioned as being "considerably harder" than other 8b routes - so that'll be 8b+ then. I get why people dont want to be seen to be overgrading but there has to be a point when you move things up a grade or it just gets silly. 

Great to see stuff like this getting done, whatever the grade.

[SA Chris]

Didn't the Very Big and the Very Small used to get 8c? or 8c+ even?

Lie you say though, all good news. Definitely a resurgence of interest.

[Jaspersharpe]

Didn't the Very Big and the Very Small used to get 8c? or 8c+ even?

Lie you say though, all good news. Definitely a resurgence of interest.

OK I should have said "nothing new's allowed to be harder than 8b" for the pedantic.   

[SA Chris]

Sorry, wasn't being pedantic, just assumed it was just a general observation on grades on slate as a mediumin general. Have seen varying grades for the TVBATVS, so wasn't sure.

[Houdini]

Well this much more like it, proper debate.

8b?  I can't say much about that personally (close on t/rope one time...but not enough).   How many 8b's on slate are there?  2 confirmed:  Bungle's Arete, T V B & T V S (oddly Dawes used to say that this was 8b+ in pinks, 8c in any other boot; but it's settled @ 8b+).  Then there's The Serpent's Vein 8b (another voice suggests differently) & now Sauron 8b (both unrepeated) and of course, New Slatesman 8b.  So whilst the first two routes have seen fair action, by the pair  doing the moving and shaking (Pete/Caff), no-one has touched the rest.  And this pair are not exactly known for hard Lime.   It's a combination of cautious/inexperience in the upper reaches of their ability.  Could be argued that Caff's opinion is more reliable (having done harder).

I'm not sure where this 8b upper limit comes from; probably the same place that once argued Welsh rock was not suited to moves harder that Brit 6c...