[Monolith]

Two tough Merseyside repeats in a week for honorary scouser Mick Adams who today sent the Breck's Haston Dyno in an impressive ground-up fashion. 

Said to have been climbed by Stevie Haston in the Merseyside glory days, the dyno had  attracted only mild interest until now. After a couple of test falls from the dyno position, Mike was seriously psyched to commit to what he later described as "a font 7b dyno in the sky".

Apologies for the woeful video quality as it was taken on my camera phone (I knew this would happen the one time my video camera and tripod weren't present). Strong potential exists for a future Merseyside short, for which Mike has been asked to climb the line again; this time on good quality film stock.

[Pantontino]

Awesome effort, and all the more so for doing it ground up!

Looks well gripping, even the dismount.

[Monolith]

Si, the facial expression looking down as he was helicoptering up there on a hold in unknown condition was one I'll never forget. It was one that said instantly to me, 'it's in the hands of the gods'. Thankfully, the helicoptering didn't follow through on it's trajectory or else we'd probably be in Arrowe Park A&E now.

[cofe]

Looks well gripping, even the dismount.

you're not wrong.

[GCW]

Nice.  How hard is the whole thing?  Is it not possible to top out?  Wouldn't fancy that jump much

[Monolith]

Was mooted at V10 when done. A strange problem historically from what I can gather..

It's not possible to topout sadly. Be nice if it did eh.

[Richie Crouch]

I reckon it may top with a further font 7c+ dyno to the top of the concrete past a wall of blankness? Certain paralysis upon failing!

Great effort Mike, I am inspired once more to visit the Breck.

p.s. Good job Duncan with the cleaning effort he has made on this wall as well as Bluebell wall, it looked in the best nick ever this week 

[dave]

jesus titty fucking christ.

[Will Hunt]

Again, 

What a beast. If he does trad then get him on The Famous Alto Sax Break. If/when someone does that its gonna be NAILS.

[Jaspersharpe]

That is rather high to be throwing one on. You really wouldn't want an uncontrolled landing from up there. 

Effort.

[magpie]

jesus titty fucking christ.

My thoughts exactly, good effort.

[Monolith]

Not that swarms of you will be rushing to the Breck, but Mick's now claiming to have all the symptoms of whiplash. Take a top-roping kit if you happen to find yourself catapulted at random to said venue.

[Houdini]

Take a top-roping kit if you happen to find yourself catapulted at random to said venue.

Anymore of that talk and you're quadruple puntered!

Take massive mates:  wideboy 6 footers and 12 mats w/ a mondo atop the lot.  Fuck top-roping's botty.

[Monolith]

Perhaps with 12 mats it's a more attractive prospect, but if you happened to be in the vicinity with a skinny old pod mat or two, I think not.

[stevie haston]

hi guys, stevie here, just checked the vid out. A couple of things, great that there is a bit of interest in ancient history, it was a great problem, but this isnt it. The break was used for the left hand (probably as in film) you unwieghted and used a tiny( the left was small, half pad)nick for two fingers of the right hand, and it cut, built your feet onto the rightfoot hold (as in film) and launched.There are a few things to support my excellent memory, one  I had witnesses, also the second ascentionist (who lived locally and tried over a period of two years) also had a witness, the sequence was as I said. As to the grade of this section of the overhanging wall( remember we used to grade bits not whole problems, grading large sections of rock is a bastard practice and best left to the french), the grade was 7a English. the move was similar to halie bob at font 8a or 7c+. If you need further info, a certain Jerry moffat failed on this section, now then thee, Jerry was not wont to fail on poxy V7 or 7bs, so, my, yes it was hard. How hard? Probably what I said. It is a common practice nowadays to disrespect  the good days sometimes had by talented old fogeys, and you know for about two months I was great and and in great form , it of course evaporated like many things at the end of the seventies. Let me mention  just a few people from that decade and the begining of the next,Tim Freeman( lighter than helium); phil davidson(never saw a better climber till I moved to France), Jerry(cunning, persistent never stopped learning), Cubby(underrated), and you know there were others nearly as good or who I didnt know about or who only blossomed for a short time. I am very upset (I was going to say kinda upset)   that people think I dont know what V7 or V10 is, jesus people like me(among others) invented those grades in britain. I hope this post dosent come across as too agressive or arrogant, it is not my intention.Strangely enough I had harder moves than the overhanging wall in London but I thought of them as triffles. I was more interested in the future of ice climbing and alpinism. Bouldering is a small thing by its very nature, and I have talked too long about it, and I will from time to time as bouldering is also a reasonable activity for people to lazy to climb. Yours Stevie.

[Monolith]

Bump.

Stevie, you'll have to forgive my reportage on this one. Finding out any info on this was hard and as I'm sure you're aware, the Breck isn't exactly in it's heyday. I grew up in Wirral and lived there until fairly recently and as such, made the most of what was on my doorstep.

I suppose in light of what Mike did, it is still an impressive bit of climbing, and I understand the likely eliminate nature of the move on the line that you did. As you say, the obvious difficulty of the move in itself is to be respected and is independent of the problem I have reported here.

Thanks very much for stepping forward on this and thanks also for the in-depth beta.

[nik at work]

Stevie nice clearing up of ambiguities over the line.
Just one small point, I don't think anyone has (or indeed would) suggest that you mis-graded the problem, so I don't think you need to be very (or even kinda) upset about it.

Anyway it's nice that you came to talk to us lowly lazy boulderers (an accusation that I'm kinda upset (I was going to say very upset) about....

[Monolith]

I turned a blind eye to deluded grandeur in this instance

[Houdini]

Oh don't worry Nik, it's quite normal for people to talk shit about the stuff they no longer excel at 

[nik at work]

Well thats what I'm doing here....

[stevie haston]

cheers Monolith (I,d prefer a real name). Other info for you it was pegged by Al Rouse(similar to me, good nerdy boulderer, more concered with slightly bigger things, killed him in the end ergo stick to bouldering) and the guys from the wirral were the ones I hung out with for years, very good sense of humour, still my mates 30 years later.
Not cheers Houdini (I,d prefer a real name and in your case an adress). I dont excel anymore but at least I did once or twice. You need an enema, perhaps taking orally, I have emergency first aid certificate and will volunteer for the job if you are anywhere near me. I am off swimming for three weeks so wont be able to reply thank god.  not at your service Stevie.   

[Houdini]

Oh you're not that far away Stevie . . .    Hope you're good at running, pops.   

(Mmmm . . .  Really digging this enema thing, cheers for the tip.)

[Jaspersharpe]

Reputations aside if bouldering is such a "small thing" which is only "a reasonable activity for those too lazy to climb" then why are you getting "very upset" over a 30 year old eliminate problem. Nobody's slagged you off, nobody's slagged the problem off and certainly nobody's attempted to belittle the acievements of you or any of the other legendary climbers you mention. These are names that (along with yours) are mentioned with nothing but admiration by most climbers - particularly boulderers who tend to understand climbing achievements better than the average.

Have a read through the pages of this forum and generally all you will see is appreciation for real achievement in whatever facet of climbing and from whatever period. You say disrespect for the old skool is "common practice". I say bullshit.

Respect for what you did achieve Stevie (massive respect) but coming on here under the guise of clearing up an issue and instead bemoaning an ill perceived lack of respect for the good old days smacks of bitterness. When you then decide to write bouldering off as being for those who don't do proper climbing it sounds small minded and blinkered to the point of being a UKC post.

On a lighter note, if you really did introduce V grades to this country then my opinion of you is forever tarnished. A "bastard practice" if ever there was one! 

Best wishes - A lazy boulderer using his real name.

Oh don't worry Nik, it's quite normal for people to talk shit about the stuff they no longer excel at 

I have no idea what you are talking about Houdini. 

[Houdini]

[meatball]

lets get back to the point of this thread! What Mick did was a hard piece of climbing ( wasnt there myself but have friends that where there ). Stevie your point has been noted and nothing has or will be taken away from your achievement!!

Lets stop the bitchin about different styles of climbing.  For me ice climbing is a stupid concept but i still have respect for the people that do it!!! Steve that was a bit petty saying bouldering is for lazy people, one of the main things in bouldering is making moves at our own limit. How that can be seen as lazy is beyond me!