[Jim]

From the guide:

Philli Winks 7a (F8a)
Shoddy holds lead up to a ledge from which a
powerful slap off a flake gains a diagonal line of
crimps leading to the top

[BenF]

the differences between how Joe and everyone else have done Monoblock is insignificant, using a different sequence doesn't make for different routes. Lots of routes can be climbed using different sequences.

Absolutely Andy.  If we don't take this approach we'll end up with a ludicrous level of prescription in climbing (other than with defined contrived eliminates of course).  Body morphology and climbing style always produce different sequences, and that's part of the rich variety in climbing (just as bouldering and ice climbing are part of the rich variety  ) that also enables us to argue for hours about the grades and number of stars alloted. 

[stevie haston]

hello Stevie here, had a great time swiming and bouldering for three weeks feel fit enough to help again. First I apologize for causing offence, dont know how I did maybe youll agree this time around.Dear Dolpf , you sound like you love your game. So for you Dolp, I read your thing, I,ll try my best dont take offence. The way I went up that wall was the best way I could work out, I think it was the easiest, I didnot deliberatly eliminate  holds, you were right the lower wall takes a bit out of you. You maybe stronger than me too use the right hand in the break or the hold might be different, who knows. I might go back  to the breck and check it out for you and me, but whoes to say if my memory will serve. Chipper Jones was six foot (second ascent) breck mike a fabulous boulderer and climber I think was trying it the original way but couldnt do it, dont know why as he had Font 8a  ability. The top wall was very complex but more navigation than raw power. Hope to meet you Dolp one day.
I feel a bit sick about this little wall as its been a bit like dead albatrose around my head for thirty years. I should have mentioned some other people like Jerry Peel , the great Hank, cris the horse Gore and criss hamper. contary to what you said Jasper I was only trying to help, and god knows how you know I am bitter, cos I,m not. I,m am sorry that my remark about bouldering is a good thing to do when too lazy to climb was taken wrongly. I am lazy, too. Yor were wrong Jasper also about not being insulted , I was. Its not a font 7b wall as Dolp has made clear, its 7c+ 8a. I did take this badly, maybe you would have too. I have done many V10s in america and this wall was always abit harder than them.I have also  come across many people who think there was no bouldering done before recent times, and who have insulted people who went befor. Think about the boots we had and other stuff;;;;
I hope I have helped, and yes even I agree that ice climbing is stupid, some of it is beyond fantastic but  yes most of it is not worth kitting up for. Bouldering is siege climbing of small stones, some are jems but most are base metal, now some are base plastic. I was not going to reply but Dolphs ernestness was inescapable, I guess I was once Dolp or something  like you all. Please take this all how it is meant, if you see me in wales next month please aproach me and talk to me(mines a double), if your name is Houdini on there hand... Yours Stevie   

[meatball]

Fair Play to you Steve!!!

[tc]

"Steve Haston visited the Breck in 1979/80 and upped the ante with a legendary dyno problem that is still reckoned to be around the Brit 7a mark (probably Font 7c+/V10). The legendary dyno in question is not an eliminate. It starts at the alcove ("fireplace") in the centre of the overhanging wall and moves up to two obvious flat holds in the diagonal break before flying direct from these to the similarly obvious housebrick-shaped rectangular slot This was first done as a top rope problem by Haston in 1979 or 1980 in a single session and repeated shortly afterwards by Keith Jones. Mike Collins also made some progress on the problem using an intermediate hold for the left hand but it is not known if he ever completed it using this method." - "the dyno remained the obvious direct challenge and was "harder than V10s at Hueco" according to Haston".

I wrote that after speaking to friends who were there (every night of the week, some of them) at the time. I spent last week in Fontainebleau with some of the same friends, one of whom -- Alan Mc Sherry or "Yag" as he is sometimes known -- told me he had also repeated the Haston Dyno. He top roped it first, then soloed it. No mats.

Nice to see the history being teased out. Shame about the negativity.

[tc]

Oh don't worry Nik, it's quite normal for people to talk shit about the stuff they no longer excel at 

I've just caught up with all this. What the fuck kind of stupid arse comment is that???

[c.j.d.]

Nice one TC - you keep those youths on their choker chains old timer!  

[nodder]

Oh don't worry Nik, it's quite normal for people to talk shit about the stuff they no longer excel at

I've just caught up with all this. What the fuck kind of stupid arse comment is that???

Its a funny one, yes? Very much in the vein of boulderers are lazy, old timers are bitter, ect ect...

On the subject of hard, old, dyno problems anyone know of anyone whose done no swing allowed at hylldrem, totally eliminate dyno though it is, only times Ive tried, or seen it tried you end up with nailing yourself into the bulge.  Obviously average session at hylldrem you would fail a drug test and its raining but probably the first V11 in wales?

Plus there is every chance that a 7b+ could feel harder than Hueco V10s, I regularly find 7b+ that feel harder than say, oh some Swiss 7c+ problems.  This proves nothing... apart from grading needing another 50 years of cheap flights to be anything like accurate around the world, ah, oh well thats not going to happen.   

[Jaspersharpe]

Plus there is every chance that a 7b+ could feel harder than Hueco V10s, I regularly find 7b+ that feel harder than say, oh some Swiss 7c+ problems.  This proves nothing... apart from grading needing another 50 years of cheap flights to be anything like accurate around the world, ah, oh well thats not going to happen.   

I read that as "another 50 years of cheap fights" at first. It still made sense in the context of this thread.

[Houdini]

Tsk!   I was hoping tc's comment would remain the last post of the thread, seeing as he answered his own question n'all.

Meta-horseshit, if you will.   

[Joepicalli]

Thank fuck this thread has settled to UKB's usual standard of measured debate. It was all looking a bit uk cock for awhile there.
At least this thread has inspired me to break my Breck cherry; pathetic I know, given that I am nailed to Mersey sandstone, and if Breck Mike is still bouldering in the area and reading this thread it would be brill to see you again .
Pex is the definition of wall climbing. Call anything on the dateline wall bouldering and you were climbing at pex in the '80's.  Hmmm ok off topic now. And has anyone soloed "Black Pimp" yet?

[DrStatham]

ummm... so where does it go then?   

[tc]

Just spent five wonderful hot days on Merseyside sandstone. Here's a Haston Dyno history update:
It was later soloed (no mats) by Alan "Yag" Mc Sherry, who held the title of "Boss of the Breck" in the 1990s.

[tc]

That was lazy of me. Actually, after extensive field research and local consultation the history on this currently reads thus:

Steve Haston visited the Breck in 1979/80 and upped the ante with a legendary dyno that is still reckoned to be at least Font 7c+/V10). The legendary dyno in question is not an eliminate. It starts to the right of the alcove ("fireplace") in the centre of the overhanging wall and moves up to two obvious flat holds in the diagonal break. Repeat ascentionists have flown direct from these to the similarly obvious housebrick-shaped rectangular slot (V8) but Haston's original method used a "proto nick" for the right hand to assist take-off.  This was first done as a top rope problem by Haston in 1980 in a single session and repeated shortly afterwards by Keith Jones. Mike Collins also made some progress on the problem using an intermediate hold for the left hand but it is not known if he ever completed it using this method. The V8 version was later top roped and then soloed (no mats!) by Alan ("Yag") Mc Sherry in the early 1990s and then in 2008 by Mick Adams, who adopted a less heart-stopping and more modern highball-with-pads approach

Also, my car mat now smells of dog shit, which Breck regulars will be able to sympathise with, I feel sure. It makes the hot drive back up the M6 to the Bowderstone very unpleasant 

[Monolith]

Jesus christ. Those boys had bollocks!! I can't se how it was topped out but perhaps that wall has deteriorated a lot now. In any case, I don't envy them doing that! Glad to hear you were around tc. Did you clock a few glorius laps of Bluebell Wall for ol times sake?

[tc]

A few glorious laps would have been...well, glorious. My all time best was four with a weight belt. This time, after several years absence, it took me a session to piece the moves together again. That fucker might well have been hard V5 when it was first done in 1968/9 but it's way harder than that now. V7 6b/c is my estimate. To my knowledge it has never been flashed. Even Mr Moffat and Mr Glowacz failed to achieve that, despite the vigorous assistance of a team of locals who pointed out the sequence and the hidden footholds. Slackers, eh?

Anyway, as I mentioned elsewhere, get down to the Breck now. It's had a battering from a team of ancient Breckmasters and lots of the classics are now nice and clean and newly chalked up.

Pex and Frodsham were fun, too.

[superfurrymonkey]

What happened to the video of Mick Adams?

[r-man]

Repeat ascentionists have flown direct from these to the similarly obvious housebrick-shaped rectangular slot (V8)

Hang on, how come the new method is only V8? Dolph said earlier in this thread:

(The 7b quote was a throw away comment made in a cafe). The only problem i have done that felt similar is Turbo Clinex a highball 8a dyno in Spain which is not as high but does have the same feel.

Sounds like more than V8 to me. Perhaps I'm getting mixed up? Anyway, keep up the good work TC, the history of these older problems is interesting.

[tc]

Sorry, that was a previous draft I did for the Breck wiki. It should read:

Repeat ascentionists have flown direct from these to the similarly obvious housebrick-shaped rectangular slot (V10), while Haston's original method used a "proto nick" for the right hand to assist take-off.

[Monolith]

Even Mr Moffat and Mr Glowacz failed to achieve that

Jerry I can understand going to the Breck as the man lived off limestone dust for a decade but Glowacz? How do you explain that one?

[tc]

It's a good story. I'll tell you sometime when I see you at the Breck. You'd be surprised at the people who have bouldered there over the years.

[SamT]

and the vid 

[Monolith]

Video of Mick is still on youtube. Tc, drop us a pm in advance if you can and I'll see you there.