[grimer]

Our own AndiT finally snagged his new route in the Churney Vallet this weekend. You probably won't have been there, but it's the wall below Inaccessible on Ina's Rock. Really amazing looking route, a very highball solo above a flat landing, but still pretty scary looking. I think it's called Thumbalina, E7 6c. 

[Fiend]

 

I've been twice. This was THE line that needed to be done. Finishes up Inaccessible I presume?

[grimer]

Not sure, wasn't there. Although you end up on stood on a big ledge, so in a way they;re different things. I didn't think it was that natural to finish up Inaccesible.

By the way, did Inaccesible last week, that really is a superb, unique and well protected route. And with the other great routes there, could we see a day in the future when Ina's Rock becomes the new Dave's Cave?

[AndiT]

I was going to finish up Inaccessible but didn't in the end, opting for the lightweight highball approach. Like Grimer says Inaccessible is another 'pitch' effectively, but would make for an amazing outing.

I'd jumped off from quite high on Thursday afternoon but then managed to slightly refine my sequence on Saturday and get up it. For a short route it's surprisingly draining and has no 'chalking' points from when the crux starts to the finish. I'm really pleased with the climbing and the independance of the line, it was one of those lucky finds with just enough holds to get you up. Chuffed to pieces. Was gonna call it M16a, but no one understood my texts so I renamed it Thumbelina. Thanks to Gus for spotting on the day and for those others who I have dragged down in the previous couple of weeks to a crag which isn't to everyones taste. It's worth adding for those of you who fancy exploring, the crag boasts one of the best E5's around (Inaccessible) plus two highball E4/5 routes and a brilliant E2 grovel crack, a crag worth checking out.

[Bonjoy]

Good work yoot! Any photos in the pipeline?

[Johnny Brown]

Hold yer horses there Bonners. I have some, though I'm not sure I can show you.

Its amazing though. Looks bof, as El mo would say. Best line I've seen in a long, long time.
Well in the peak and its environs obviously, I went to Nesscliffe last week, some LINES there, oh lordy. Sandstone is the new gritstone, y'all need to stop prancing round these wanky limestone 'bouldering' venues I tell you.

[AndiT]

Sandstone is the new gritstone, y'all need to stop prancing round these wanky limestone 'bouldering' venues I tell you.

Damn straight!

[Eddies]

But isnt there a new line you and Justin have been working on recently very very close to you?
Whens that gonna get done?

[AndiT]

Yeah, need to be a bit better to climb that one though, imagine it'll have to wait for colder conditions again now too.

[mini]

Glad you got it ticked on Saturday, though to be fair you couldn't have got much closer to doing the send on Thursday! Sorry I wasn't there to see the grin on ya face once ya touched the ledge.

Good work, whats next?

[Mirf]

Had a look at that wall a few years back, looks like a brilliant route, good effort.

[rainbow]

Well done Stunning line, finally t'other end of the churnet getting the attention its deserves. Great name to.

[AndiT]

Glad you got it ticked on Saturday, though to be fair you couldn't have got much closer to doing the send on Thursday! Sorry I wasn't there to see the grin on ya face once ya touched the ledge.

Good work, whats next?

I wasn't grinning til I was stood on the ledge, I never liked the last mantle!

As for next, I'm gonna buy a ladder for route inspection. I've seen the light! Might go back to the route me and Just were trying, I fancy a break from the Churnet for a couple of weeks, although still want to tick Old King Cole at Harston. Probably just chill and be satisfied for a bit too.

[Fiend]

Sandstone is the new gritstone, y'all need to stop prancing round these wanky limestone 'bouldering' venues I tell you.

Word.

This spring I've had great days out at Helsby, Pex, and twice in the Churnet.

Oh and Font.

Next on the list, Nesscliffe and Armathwaite (and maybe Hetchell).

"Proper" sandstone is great.

Andi, you gonna do the big link at some point then? Or is once enough 

[AndiT]

Andi, you gonna do the big link at some point then? Or is once enough 

I won't be linking it into Inaccessible, but I will be going back, if you catch my drift.

[Fiend]

 

[AndiT]

There is possibly more to the headwall than just Inaccessible, though none to match it in quality. The crag isn't route-saturated yet.

[Jim]

Fiend - take a yard brush if your going to hetchell

[Fiend]

I have one! Well, a proper outdoor patio-scrubbing type brush anyway. I just need some gimp who is willing to "swap" route brushing .

[Johnny Brown]

Where are you based? Sheff? I wouldn't travel from Leeds to go to Hetchell, its cack. Nesscliffe though, I'd come from the moon.

In the light of recent debate the patio at the base of Tumbellina is rather amusing.

Oh, go on then, here's a taster through the eye of The Shaz. Me failing to commit to the crux. As you can see 'highball' ain't really the word.

[Fiend]

Nice, good flexibility there strong lass. Good spotting from the dogs too lol. Definitely an impressive wall!

And yeah, from Sheff, I've already been to Hetchell twice soloing....I like exploring esoteric bollox 

[unclesomebody]

 

Where are you based? Sheff? I wouldn't travel from Leeds to go to Hetchell, its cack. Nesscliffe though, I'd come from the moon.

In the light of recent debate the patio at the base of Tumbellina is rather amusing.

Oh, go on then, here's a taster through the eye of The Shaz. Me failing to commit to the crux. As you can see 'highball' ain't really the word.

I guess it's not that high...  Oh, here's a photo of Adam, I mean Lisa Rands on a v10/E7 "highball".

[Bonjoy]

Where are you based? Sheff? I wouldn't travel from Leeds to go to Hetchell, its cack. Nesscliffe though, I'd come from the moon.

In the light of recent debate the patio at the base of Tumbellina is rather amusing.

Oh, go on then, here's a taster through the eye of The Shaz. Me failing to commit to the crux. As you can see 'highball' ain't really the word.

Wowsers, that looks brilliant.


PS Everyone knows Americans give their headpoint routes V grades because they think it's more cool than 5.12d or whatever. Doesn't mean they're especially bold, just that they can't grade properly

[AndiT]

I guess it's not that high...  Oh, here's a photo of Adam, I mean Lisa Rands on a v10/E7 "highball".

Always nay-saying  

That pic of Lisa is quality. I wonder what the moves are like where she is now?

[Johnny Brown]

Everyone knows Americans give their headpoint routes V grades because they think it's more cool than 5.12d or whatever. Doesn't mean they're especially bold, just that they can't grade properly

Both US boulder and route grading systems don't really have capacity to include danger. The YDS justs adds an X or R at the end, similar to yorkshire P grades but less specific. Similarly V grades just get highball written after them.

That churnet shot doesn't show the height very well, and Andi had a couple of pads as opposed to the 15 doubtless hidden behind that brush. Uncle's photos will impress me more when they come with some info on how hard they are high up. If that route is E7, that means its less dangerous than Andi's which is probably tough V8 but also E7.