[mini]

By the way Grimes, whose Andi Turnet? New player on the Churnet scene?

[AndiT]

Mart, you must read the titles more carefully.

Cider Nut, of course, the chimney is a speleological dream with a Bellamesque top out "Lurking, deep in the undergrowth" and if you haven't done it, you haven't lived. Same goes for Sifta's Quid at the Roaches.

T

[mini]

Doh! Feel such a Schlong!

[SA Chris]

Just had a flip through new LARGE FORMAT Climb mag in WHSMiff. Great picture of this route, hats off to Andi and to Mr Photographer man (JB/AL). Pretty pics of Steely Fingered Yoof, Ru and Gus too.

[AndiT]

  it's certainly a colourful publication this edition. The one of Gus at Goldsborough is of particular mention, I think that one would make a good blow up, very nice. Incidentally, I was luck enough to get a print from photographer man (JB/AL) of Hen Cloud from the Spring Boulders (it's on his web page) which I took into a gallery in Leek where I get my pictures framed; the guy there just held the picture and went WOW, breathed out and then went WOW again, a great accolade I reckon.

[SA Chris]

Amazing.

Didn't know there was a gallery in Leek.

You should have scanned it and flogged him half a dozen copies.

[Johnny Brown]

Yesterday myself and Uncle managed a couple of ground-up ascents of this superb line. Being both  rather shorter than Andi, we managed to find a way around the heel-hook crux with a nice bit of footwork and a little pop, making it more like 7a+/7b or V7. I think its still worth E7 though, it felt like an E6 6a but harder - E7 6b? The top section is very positive climbing which is a good job because it feels as high as it looks.



More info at Keith's blog. The only thing he didn't mention was the knee-wobbler mantel onto the narrow ledge at the top. I wouldn't recommend the traverse off (unless, of course, you've a point to prove), either take a rope and finish up Inaccessible or abb off the holly bush like Keith. Either way its very, very good.

[slackline]

Good effort guys, looks like quite a spicy solo.

[grimer]

ah brilliant. Could you not lassoo the two spikes with a rope, Peter harding style to sooth the nerves on the ledge move?

[Johnny Brown]

In theory, possibly yes. In practice its a very spicy spot that needs getting out of fast. I fear hanging around, desperately flicking a rope, with the options of the fall or going without wheeling around your mind, would be worse.

Worth mentioning also in thew current climate, this crag is permanently dry, and the rock in this area at least is impeccable. Amazing.

[Bonjoy]

It looks brilliant. Am keen to see Jim's footage.

[unclesomebody]

Sorry to mislead you, but Jim only has stills. He will probably put some up when he gets back from work.

I'm thinking about heading back tomorrow to finish the job. Weather looks fine, so if anyone else is keen then come along! Bring a pad, or two, or three.

[Jim]

I should point out that this is not really a highball at all. Its fucking high.
A fall from the last move would definatley result in injury; even onto the 4 or 5 big pads we had stacked up.
You definately need to take your brain out for this

[unclesomebody]

It's not that high. We had 3 pads stacked on top of each other. You're memory is worse than mine. Put up some pics Jim, unless you have been issued with a cease and desist.

Edit; Upon reflection, it is quite high, but because of the flat landing I think you could fall, in a controlled manner, a long way and still be able to walk out. An out of control fall would definitely result in injury.

[Adam Lincoln]

It's not that high. We had 3 pads stacked on top of each other. You're memory is worse than mine. Put up some pics Jim, unless you have been issued with a cease and desist.

Edit; Upon reflection, it is quite high, but because of the flat landing I think you could fall, in a controlled manner, a long way and still be able to walk out. An out of control fall would definitely result in injury.

Your not selling it me for tomorrow! I have done nothing but sport climb for last 6 months!

[Jim]

don't put yourself down uncle. Its fucking high and you were shitting yourself on that ledge. It doesn't look that big with the picture of Andi on it because Andi is fucking massive as well.
I can't be arsed to get my camera out of my car yet cos I've been at work all day and am truly done in. I'll email you some photo's when I do

[AndiT]

I was so pleased to hear about this yesterday, it's great news that it's getting some attention and that you guys think it is not only good, but scary too, I pooed myself doing it. I'd like to hear the non-heel beta definitely too.

It's also great that it's had an improvement on style, I well and truly top roped it before my ascent.

I got some 'history' from Boysen last time met him and it was interesting to hear that John Allen had once worked this line, as had Simon Nadin, which I suppose reveals that it's not such a back water as first appears....well maybe!

If folks are going back tomorrow (Friday) please let me know, I'd love to go up and have a go at getting an ascent of the other new route 'Cornelius' to the left.

Once again, really well done on the GU. Stoked.

[Johnny Brown]

Edit; Upon reflection, it is quite high, but because of the flat landing I think you could fall, in a controlled manner, a long way and still be able to walk out. An out of control fall would definitely result in injury.

I've taken some big falls onto ground and mats in my time, but there's no way I'd like to fall, even in perfect control, off that last move. You are going to hurt yourself. Fluff the mantel and you'd be in a world of shit.

I think you'll like the new beta Andi, its a lovely move, easier and flows straight into the next. And you don't have to stretch out horizontal at 3 metres. Did a slightly more direct start too, though looking at the pics from last year not as direct as I nearly did then.

[Fiend]

it felt like an E6 6a but harder - E7 6b?

Brilliant. The UK grading system lives on. 

Nice one guys. Better than Hoy??

The E8-ish thing to the left next, then??

[Adam Lincoln]

If folks are going back tomorrow (Friday) please let me know, I'd love to go up and have a go at getting an ascent of the other new route 'Cornelius' to the left.

Yes Andi, me and Unc are meeting there for 10.30 tomorrow morning. See you there....

[AndiT]

Hmm, 10:30 would be a bit of a stretch, need to work you see! Wouldn't be able to make it until the afternoon, sorry.

Email me if you're interested in any beta, or if you fancy meeting later on...

[unclesomebody]

After I gave Ned a demo by climbing up to the final moves then back down, Ned flashed Thumbelina confirming the high quality of the line, whilst also confirming what was in my mind... that this is a nice highball v7.  This really is a great problem and should have far more traffic. Why waste your time with flooded peak limestone when you can enjoy high quality sandstone? 

[Bonjoy]

 Was only saying yesterday that my limestone season is probably over for 08. It's all about grit (and maybe a bit of sand) now.

[Johnny Brown]

C'mon Keith, what happened on Cornelius? Bit spicy above that tree?

[Adam Lincoln]

C'mon Keith, what happened on Cornelius? Bit spicy above that tree?

What tree?  Only joking.

Funny one regarding the E grade. Should you be able to fall off the crux of an E7 and be ok? I slipped off crux first go, and was fine. So not sure on grade. It is high and if you fluff the mantel, you would be screwed.

Depends how many pads is too many, we had 6. Keith would have done Cornilius today if that tree stump was not there. But it is, so there you go.....

Grades ey!

I got some pics of both routes, which ill upload tomorrow.