[Idol eyes]

What is the name of the crag...

[Johnny Brown]

Ina's Rock. Or do you mean the Buttermilks?

[AndiT]

Why, what's the difference?

[reeve]

Fantastic effort Mr T! That photos hints at an impressive looking chunk of churnet. Exploring that bit of the world creeps higher up my list of things to do everytime I hear about it.

[Somebody's Fool]

Nice one Andi.  It looks well brown.

[Bonjoy]

Yes, I'd have thought that would be due to the iron oxide content

[Idol eyes]

Inas Rock, looks very nice...
is this the new E7, what tech grade is it?

[AndiT]

I gave it 6c for the crux which Adam thought would be around V8 I think he said. Very bouldery section, the rest is 6a, 6bish I suppose. The last move needs a bit of 'momentum' and the mantle is scary.

[Johnny Brown]

Its worth noting I didn't do the crux move, I only gave it V8 cos it seemed hard, and any harder than V8 would be 7a. 6c is probably a better grade, particularly as the man that gave it has done the move.

[andy_e]

the rest is 6a, 6bish I suppose.

When 6c's no longer hard and 6a, 6bish is a rest...

[GCW]

I think you mean approaching a rest, don't you?

[andy_e]

yes, that is the quote, but andi said THE rest.

[AndiT]

The 6c is not that hard, and the rest is approaching 6b.



The move JB is on is almost a trick move and feels very unlikely. The left hand is on a poor roundy undercut and you have to get all your weight onto your heel, which is easier said than done to bring you right hand over to the pocket. If your heel pops then, or even once you've got the pocket, you're gonna fall awkward and hard. You then need to get your skates on to the top. I think without the beta, the crux would feel even harder. Getting off the ground took a bit of working out!

[Idol eyes]

Looks like a fantastic climb... there is something about highballs that push you to climb in a more relaxed state of mind! really fustrating to work out, really nerve racking whilst building up to the accent, then when it comes together, they just feel really smooth... do you know what i mean?
Did the line left of Public Enemy at Wind Moor End, so much anxiety prior to the end dyno, it just dissapeared half way through the first commited try, then cruiseing the end moves made it feel really easy, I fucking love Highballing i do...
Great effort, the Churnet Valley Rocks...

[a dense loner]

looking at the photo's the last move is a very long way, and andi is all limbs. quality looking route. i thought it didn't look too high till i saw the size of the ladder what the photo's were taken from

[AndiT]

Yeah, it's a pretty amazing ladder, and was so stable on the perfectly level patio beneath.

All limbs, I'd take offence if it wasn't true.

[Jim]

certainly better than being all schlong

[AndiT]

Not according to the gospel of Mark Sharratt 11:17 "It's better to be all Schlong, than all limbs, and it was so."

[Johnny Brown]

...and the meek were heard to mutter 'not fair, Shaz is both all limbs and all schlong. And he gets discounted rates at both Tan Tropez and Tanerife, how are we supposed to compete?'

[SA Chris]

Another thread goes tangential.

Or tan/genital.

[AndiT]

And so he went forth for said 'burn' which brought about a fiery glow, for it was Foun-tan Street, his second home for all of three minutes a week. Both schlong and limbs were all radiated and he said it was good and knew his returneth would be frequent.

[dave]

this thread is tantastic.

[cider nut]

Nice effort Andi.

It's worth adding for those of you who fancy exploring, the crag boasts one of the best E5's around (Inaccessible) plus two highball E4/5 routes and a brilliant E2 grovel crack, a crag worth checking out.

You forgot to mention Ina's Chimney, for the bumblies.  A worthwhile journey through the crag, in a league of its own really, in that it still manages to be fun despite the dirt and loose pebbles!  (Although the other routes may be like that too, I haven't done them).

[mini]

SCHLONG; A cock with substantial thigh-slapping length and girth.

Shaz ruined AndiT's first ascent when he drunkenly whipped out his schlong in front of everyone at the crag.

Amazing what you find on Urban Dictionary!

[Eddies]

Which leads us onto Rogers profanisaurus 
www.viz.co.uk