[sharkey]

Moose don't write Back Bowden off just yet, right of Hazelrig wall is another huge roof with imaculate rock, independant roof problems from V3 to V6 perma dry and all classics, also on the boulder in front of Outwardbound is a lip traverse, V5 really worthwhile, as mentioned the burly roof problems below the main BB roof are all outstanding V2 - V7, when the wind blows it's a saving grace.

[SA Chris]

if you climb at moderate grades

who do you think you are, intimating that I'm MODERATE.  I'm shit I'll have you know!

Mentioning V7/8 says otherwise. By my standards anyway.

some of my best days out have ben in marginal weather, makes it all the more satisfying grasping gems from the mouth of the storm.

[moose]

Mentioning V7/8 says otherwise. By my standards anyway.

My few successes at V7 have all been after seiges that make the 100 Years War look like a happy slapping! 

I agree that dodgy conditions and perhaps a bit of initial hopelessness often make for the best days.  Getting Slapstick Arete at Caley was a recent example for me: a grim day when almost everything was too damp to contemplate and there was noone else bouldering.  Despite that I managed one of my projects and even the way it rained immediately afterwards seemed right: telling me to go home, chill, and not fuck myself up further because I had been, seen and conquerred!

Another treasured day was at Shipley: travelling hungover from Huddersfield I got completely lost in central Bradford and arrived to a drizzley crag in a complete state after around 2 hours of driving in circles.  Seized by a violent deathwish I threw myself at an obviously seeping Millstone, a problem I had always chickened out from in good conditions.  Somehow, after a few fraught moments, I managed to topout without crippling myself and then, psyched out of my tiny mind and encouraged by an oubreak of sunshine, managed a fairly damp Red Baron in very short order... again despite having failed miserably on previous occasions in mint conditions when I hadn't been on the verge of vomiting.

[Pantontino]

Sharkey's right, there are some great problems on the right side of Back Bowden. Dave is also right about the roof starts to the E1s etc (topping out is only about VS) - all top problems. Seek and you shall not be disappointed.

[nathan wind]

Hey ho... off-topic, but now I've finally done Slapstick Arete I don't suppose you (or anyone else) have got any cunning tips for:

- the LHS horn problem at Caley (other than be really strong and dynamic - is there some crafty heel-hook or sequence that I couldn't see?).

moose

my beta for this...

LH cups the starting boss, RH on some okish ripples adjacent to LH, LF toe hooks low near the base of the boulder / wherever feels good for you, RF goes in a small pocket... slap up with your right hand to the next set of holds, get the high 'dish' part of the sloper then match.. get 'em as good as you can.. the crux is next.. release your toe hook, hold the swing and put your LF on a small flat hold just beneath the starting handholds.. this last part all feels very tensiony and takes some control.. next, with your LF on the aforementioned hold, slap again with your RH to the next obvious hold/ sloper.. stick this.. LF stays where it was, (RF comes off then dabs onto a pebble somewhere to help with final throw..) .. next, with the LH kept low, slap again with the RH for the top / apex of the arete.. I find I can stick the arete about six inches below the top.. from here you can just slap again into the good jugs.. job done..

before I sussed the above sequence I used to do this prob heel-hooking, udging, thrutching and generally gasping for air.. with me 'new' improved sequence I find it just takes a bit of faith when you release the toe hook and a bit of committment for the final move..

absolute classic though, and one of my favourite problems anywhere.. in fact the whole circuit beneath the sugarloaf is all pretty stellar IMHO

can also recommend..

the prob to the immediate left of mr smooth.. prob 4, boulder 19 ( all numbers as in the current guide..) but do it from a standing start
pine arete from sitting.. prob 3, boulder 21..
flapjack traverse from L-R,  prob 1, boulder 23..

hope this helps

[nathan wind]

my best of '06..

after such a long lay off, 2006 was pretty much about filling in a few gaps; my faves would be...

uk probs: blockbuster 7b+, houdini 7b+, full green traverse 7a+,

abroad:   soulslinger v8/9 (the buttermilks), disco diva v8 (the happys), tendons give v4 (camp four)...

new lines: adbuster v6 (woodhouse).. culturejammer v5 (woodhouse).. both eliminates.. tho I should double check with Pantontino to find out if they've been done before...             
     

[jonjon]

I think i need to get out more in 07 - spread my wings, get a harness and rope...

   * Top three boulder probs, UK
Deliverence, Brad Pit, David (Mother Cap)


    * Top three boulder probs, abroad
Only had two days in Font - Mur Lombard being the pick of the trip
    * Top three trad routes/soloes UK
None
    * Top three sport routes UK
None
    * Top three routes abroad (any genre)
None
    * Top three new route/prob put up
None

[Houdini]

Arete of Ultimate Cuntitude, Koh Tao.

What a great name.  Is there a background?

Sorry, missed this one.

OK.  A of U C is:   In full Thai sunlight from dawn till dusk (no shade ever); rounded and poor gritty granite holds; when the sun drops the water rises to prevent access in reasonable temps and vice versa.  Beaut moves, a pretty line that happens to be shafted by it's position and a great way to induce power-strops on a morning or nightly basis.

Trying to climb it was like stroking a gorgeous kitten that bites every time you touch, but for some reason you still keep wanting to touch it, and always get bitten.  A total chore of a problem included only for the memorable shenanigans it induced.

[Pantontino]

uk probs: houdini 7b+ - forgotten about that beauty. Awkward finish, or what!

new lines: adbuster v6 (woodhouse).. culturejammer v5 (woodhouse).. both eliminates.. tho I should double check with Pantontino to find out if they've been done before...             
     

The only place I ever used to do eliminates was underneath Clingen, and that was over 10 years ago. Where and what are your new creations?

[nathan wind]

uk probs: houdini 7b+ - forgotten about that beauty. Awkward finish, or what!

The only place I ever used to do eliminates was underneath Clingen, and that was over 10 years ago. Where and what are your new creations?

Houdini is awesome isn't it.. and man that finish is awkward! in some ways the hardest bit! I've never been able to do it with any grace at all.. always end up humping the rock!! first time I did this I thought its was a solid V9/ 7c... though sussed an easier start recently so maybe 7b+  wicked prob whatever...

as for the new probs..

a couple on clingen, one is a sit down start to the arete, slapping up the arete.. rather than pressing into the pocket as in prob 12 in the guide.. new prob starts with LH on hold 43, RH cups the arete at the base then slap up with the right to 34.. cool moves.. though I have a feeling this has been done? too good too have been missed I think.. theres an even lower start coming into this from the polished chipped holds at the start of twin cracks.. reminds me of the fridge at brimham, though I haven't linked this so it remains a project.. really green up there recently..

the others are all on cave buttress, a few new variants on there, all pretty good quality.. adbuster starts in the back of the cave, as for most of the 'classic' probs, then trends rightwards using the small / poor crimps right on the lip, then rocks onto the rh wall using a small pocket, (the slots out), a good prob which I dont think's been done.. theres a version that trends leftwards too which is slightly easier..

was hoping to send you a topo this weekend but have just managed to delete the pics whilst transferring 'em from my old mac.. will sort out a new one out this week..

[Fiend]

• Top three boulder probs, UK

Mono pocket roof problem, Churnet Valley
Gorilla, Dumbarton
Anything at the Sheep Pen Boulders

I must be getting old as I've only just remember I went to Porth Ysgo this year! So that list should read more like:

• Top three boulder probs, UK

Mono pocket roof problem, Churnet Valley
Spaz Arete, Porth Ysgo or Unmarked Grave, Porth Ysgo
Dumby in general

BTW I didn't do any eliminates on Clingen this year, but I did lead Clingen (after much speculation about the gear, not helped by the blatant LIES in the Yorkshire Guide). Very fine route too.

[Teaboy]

• Top three boulder probs, UK
  Only did one (direct to Lttle Extra) but such is my weakness even this represented an improvement
  Top three boulder probs, abroad
  Nope
  Top three trad routes/soloes UK
  Made a conscious decision to not climb trad this year but still managed some longstanding ticks, none of which disappointed; Dream\Liberator and Kafoozalem at Bosi and Ichabod at Scafell East, not the best route but I'd been after climbing on the East Buttress for about 18 years
  Top three sport routes UK
  Mescalito, New Dawn and Obsession (I spent some time at Malham this year!). It was so nearly so much better, one more move!
  Top three routes abroad (any genre)
  Got to add my voice to jonboy's, Tresor de Zebra is as good as it gets for the grade followed by any other two from the Tarn (maybe Planete Causse), also went to Osp but there was nothing there to touch the Tarn
   

[Bonjoy]

Yeah Planet Causse is amazing. So sustained, not the steady warm-up I was expecting, but awesome!

[Andy Harris]

Here's my list. Some what limited by only climing on Peak limestone /grit but mostly Switzerland.

top 3, no 4 OK 5 uk boulder
Pistol Whip (7b+ Almscliffe) - what a great line
Full Power (8a Gardoms) - always good to get a Moffat tick
Flat World ss (7c+ Baslow)
Brad's Wall (7c) - what an effort


top 3 (OK 4, no 5, no 6!) boulder abroad
Never Ending Story II (8a Magic Wood) - simply fantastic moves
Impasse du Hazard (7a+ Cusiniere)
Mallonge (7c Brione)
Octopussy (8a Magic Wood)
La Peche (7a Cresciano) - extreme mantel, but no Beast!
La Pelle (8a Cresciano) - old nemesis

top 3 sport
Kali Yuga (8b Two Tier) - amazing
Gonads (8a+ Two tier) - nice mono
Maximum (7c+ Mallham) - such big holds

top 3 trad / solo
Business As Usual (E5 6B OSS)
My Apple (7b+ Rowtor) - will count this as a route

top 3 routes abroad
no route climbinga broad for me this year

[Bonjoy]

Gonads (8a+ Two tier) - nice mono

Genious

[irish si]

UK Boulders
xxxx Bowderstone 8a
Lou Ferrino 7c+
Joker 8a

Wasnt in britain much in '06

top 5 abroad

Dark Waters 8a+ Colorado Amazing boulder best ive done by far
Bush Pilot 8a Colorado amazing perfect
Le tombeau 7c+ Tagasonne brilliant 2 moves in massive roof
Psoass mole 8a+ Targasonne amazing
Black ice 7c+ Colorado

Ive done a lot of amazing quality blocs this year with my move to usa.  very lucky.

sport uk

only did one with doylo
eat the rich at the water cum jolly, nothing special to be honest. the inch test looks about v13 though

Top trad

havnt done any dont think last year. now that i think about it. i must have done one, just cant remember.

Top sport abroad

Freaks Colorado 8b.
warm up clear creek 5c

thats it.

[Nibile]

top three uk:
- one good attempt on brad pit
- a very smooth flash of a problem thats left of bentleys gonna sort it out, that rises from left to right on positive edges
- a quick ascent of demon wall roof and the following flash of steves wall and the following wine and whiskey night

top three abroad:
- FA of a stunning line at la baleine, annot
- quick ascent of one problem in cresciano i dunno the name (cut my finger badly)
- doesnt get to my mind, so prolly does not exist

no trad no spurt

[r-man]

Impasse du Hazard (7a+ Cusiniere)

Glad someone else rated this as well. Brilliant problem.

Almost forgot, I did do some trad, I just can't remember what it was. It was fantastic though -

The Spiral Route? - diff? - on that limestone cliff over the road from Wetton Mill - jump the fence (is there another way?), scramble through the brambles and in a sort of cave you'll find an upwards leading spiral tube. Scramble up and round and it eventually finishes at a large window halfway up the cliff. Turn around and slither down again...

Think it's in a guidebook, there are some old threads there too. Anyone know more?

[Fiend]

I know someone who would be very interested in that, if it is described in a guide please let me know.

[richdraws]

First years bouldering outdoors...

Best boulder problems UK

Worldline (V8) - Earl crag
Steve's Wall (V7) - Almscliff
Horror Arete (V5) - Bridestones

Abroad (Well just Font  )

Le Mouton a 5 Pattes, (7a) - Cuisiniere
La Couer (7a) - Elephant (did not complete)
Mary rose (6a)

I am gonna get lynched for forgetting the correct names of those places in Font I am sure 
I did one trad route at frogatt, dabbled with sports routes in Llanberis and Llanymenoch, but mainly it was a year of bouldering and trying to learn how to climb outdoors. Hopefully this year will see some more choices for best foreign bouldering and have some climbs to choose for best routes.

[r-man]

I know someone who would be very interested in that, if it is described in a guide please let me know.

Sorry, I don't really know the guidebook details. Drop (woz) a pm, he'll know more, or his dad will.

Think it's possibly on the cliff to the right in this photo:



Park at Wetton Mill, near cafe.
http://www.multimap.com/map/browse.cgi?client=public&GridE=-1.83460&GridN=53.09480&lon=-1.83460&lat=53.09480&search_result=Wetton%2C%20Staffordshire&db=freegaz&lang=&keepicon=true&place=Wetton%2C%20Staffordshire&pc=&advanced=&client=public&addr2=&quicksearch=wetton&addr3=&scale=100000&addr1=
Cross road, follow track to the left, through a field or two. After a couple of minutes you get to a wire fence, with the cliff behind. Jump fence and wade over/through vegetation get to bottom of crag. Aim for the middle. Route is obvious.

[andy_e]

I have a feeling that is in On Peak Rock...

[Bonjoy]

Ossum's Cave? The only pic I can find is this rather crap one.

[Stubbs]

Worldline (V8) - Earl crag

What's this? Name doesn't ring a bell.

[Bonjoy]

It's at Queen's Crag, Northumberland. http://www.northumberlandbouldering.co.uk/queens_worldline2.htm