[Stubbs]

Ah yeah I remember that, not Earl crag though, but another member of the crag nobility.

[r-man]

Ossum's Cave? The only pic I can find is this rather crap one.

That's the badger. Ossam's crag - http://www.climbingcrags.co.uk/ViewCrag.aspx?id=678

Developed in 1900, with 15 routes, so must be in a guidebook somewhere. Restrictions from March to end of June due to nesting Peregrines.

[(woz)]

I can't believe I forgot that one in my trad section Route/scramble of the year for sure. Probably very interesting to geology/nature types as well - well worth stopping off at.

[Fiend]

Peak Limestone South... In which case the route you did (going by the description) was probably The Chimney, a mere Moderate - no big numbers for you boyo  

[richdraws]

Yeah I meant Queens crag  , got mixed up with the other north facing wet, miserable and cold crag with a load of problems I would love to try. Sodding weather.

Worldline is an amazing problem though.

[ferret]

UK Boulders
xxxx Bowderstone 8a
Lou Ferrino 7c+
Joker 8a

Wasnt in britain much in '06

top 5 abroad

Dark Waters 8a+ Colorado Amazing boulder best ive done by far
Bush Pilot 8a Colorado amazing perfect
Le tombeau 7c+ Tagasonne brilliant 2 moves in massive roof
Psoass mole 8a+ Targasonne amazing
Black ice 7c+ Colorado

quite a year mate, you`ll be pleased to know at least 80% of hard problems in hueco r yor style, i fully expect yor ticklist to dismay me. hav fun 

[moose]

- the LHS horn problem at Caley (other than be really strong and dynamic - is there some crafty heel-hook or sequence that I couldn't see?).

moose

my beta for this...

LH cups the starting boss, RH on some okish ripples adjacent to LH, LF toe hooks low near the base of the boulder / wherever feels good for you, RF goes in a small pocket... slap up with your right hand to the next set of holds, get the high 'dish' part of the sloper then match.. get 'em as good as you can.. the crux is next.. release your toe hook, hold the swing and put your LF on a small flat hold just beneath the starting handholds.. this last part all feels very tensiony and takes some control.. next, with your LF on the aforementioned hold, slap again with your RH to the next obvious hold/ sloper.. stick this.. LF stays where it was, (RF comes off then dabs onto a pebble somewhere to help with final throw..) .. next, with the LH kept low, slap again with the RH for the top / apex of the arete.. I find I can stick the arete about six inches below the top.. from here you can just slap again into the good jugs.. job done..

Did this on saturday: absolutely fantastic problem - precision burliness and technical thuggery.  Completely made my day as any kind of dynamic slapping is something I am really crap at. That said it came close to destroying my day too - fell off whilst doing the final lunge at least 6 times over the course of almost four hours of solidly active whittling (christ I was tired that night).  Resulted in one quite spectacular public tantrum of completely incoherent swearing... embarassing but seemed to help  

So thanks for the beta - though congenital weakness meant I had to match on the hold below the apex (LF heel-hooking near starting holds) and generally spend a lot of time tenaciously adjusting on poor holds rather than just getting on with it.  Crux for me was probably believing I could get my left foot on that flattie whilst still hanging the slopers! 

[andy_e]

Bon effort moose... Didn't clean off much chalk though 

I dangled around on it on Sunday, conditions were A1 but my bizarre method was getting me nowhere. And now I have no skin. Roll on Wednesday!

[moose]

The chalk wasn't all mine... though I can't really claim any high ground - I guess I should have been a bit more considerate.  I think I might have seen you walking along the main path away from the crag area - around 4pm on saturday? I was having a look at what I think is Pedestal arete and completely failing to even pull onto the standing start!

If it helps my ridiculously long-winded sequence/beta for the horn LHS was:
- start LH on boss, RH on crimpy lip bit, RF in pocket. 
- Pull up onto arete:  really get your body into it using a low LF heelhook and slap RH onto best bit of sloper (a dishy bit fairly low down?),
- Then (and here's the knacky bit) to match the LH on the sloper you have to "sag" your body-weight directly under the RH whilst converting the LF into a toehook.  Immediately then bump the RH up a few inches to a bit of the sloper that is better for laying away from - more on the lip where from below there appears to be a "dip".
- Bring the LF onto the flat foothold (simultaneously with this I fractionally readjust LH to the dishy part of the sloper vacated by the RH to facillitate better "laying away" from).
- Hoick up and pop RH to good obvious hold (remember to use your thumb!), dab RF onto flat foothold whilst removing the LF and replacing it as a heel hook near starting holds. 
- I then crossed through LH to match (above RH), fully layed away from the holds (LF heel hooking top, RF either still on flatty or dangling) and lunged for the top.

I tried missing out various steps in the interest of efficiency (especially the readjustments on the sloper) but had no luck - this seemed to be the "minimal beef" path for me.  Good luck hope it helps...

[Stubbs]

I was having a look at what I think is Pedestal arete and completely failing to even pull onto the standing start!

Pulling in to the starting right hand hold is by far the hardest part.  I crimp the pebble, some people use the little sloper.

[andy_e]

Good luck hope it helps...

Cheers for the beta, it seems to make a lot of sense, so I'll give it a try tomorrow afternoon.

I think I might have seen you walking along the main path away from the crag area - around 4pm on saturday?

I was up at roadside all of saturday, so I don't think it was me...

[Aussiegav]

2006 resulted in 3 failed comebacks off the couch. none due to injury 

trip to sumatra  and finding  4 big caves next to morroccos best waves was good though...
if anyone wants new hard problems and a great surf on the same trip?? let me know and i'll give details and pics...

[SA Chris]

Planning a Maroc trip for later in the year, love to know details.