[r-man]

I've never been to Black Rocks, but Angel's Share sounds like great fun, assuming it can be played on as a bouldering problem -

8m. A desperate route up the centre of the slab above the runnel which has some unusual moves and is easier for the tall. No handholds on the pebble-less slab result in several rock-overs which require timed momentum from the previous rock-over to enable a foot to be placed higher - ultimate Dawes. Spotters and padding make this relatively safe, but it is graded for neither.

Uk 7a? So around ft7c then? And more importantly, what else is there to do? I've heard there's some good bouldering here.

[(woz)]

I've always enjoyed the railway slab (4ish? problems up to V3). There is plenty of other stuff to have a go at if you have a good wander around. I take it that Angel's Share is the one that Moonie falls off in doseage 4. And is 'Jumping on a Beetle' on that boulder too?

I've not been there bouldering for a good few years though.
dan

[r-man]

Just searching for photos, I found these

Archive photo (not sure how long ago)

Modern day photo

[r-man]

I've always enjoyed the railway slab (4ish? problems up to V3).

Looks good

[(woz)]

Nice pics! The rockfax database will tell you pretty much all you need to know as far as the routes (and the traditional problems) go.http://www.rockfax.com/databases/results_crag.html?id=202 - Perhaps Bonjoy/Johnny B/Miscellaneous exploratory peakophile will know of other, newer problems


Those pictures have reminded me of just how much I want to go and do Curving arete when I grow some balls

[Houdini]

Those two snaps are great.  It must be a hundred years old (?)  The trees and ground line speak volumes.

[(woz)]

Those two snaps are great.  It must be a hundred years old (?)  The trees and ground line speak volumes.

I couldn't work out whether the ground level has actually fallen, or whether the photographer was just stood in a different place. Tis a shame that pine above gaia isn't still there - very photogenic.

[Bonjoy]

From the photo it looks like the trees were already on there way out. There also appears to be attempts to protect new trees growing (wooden frames in ground). It's a shame they didn't succeed.

 There is not much bouldering at Black Rocks. There are a few good highballs such as The Runnel E2 6b, the arete to it's left 6b+ish (slink off right at the top), Non-Stick Vicar E3 6c/7b+/c? (long thought to have shed a hold, but nearly repeated by Keenus on a very warm day recently, the right arete is not used at that grade in case you wondered), Golden Days E3 6b, Make it Slappy E6 6c/7b+? (the arete of Velvet Silence, start on RHS then rock onto LHS to finish). There is a Fnt6cish boulder problem called Desert Island Disco (I think) between the two starts of Birch Tree Wall and a hard arete (7b+?) on the lefthand side of the lower block on Gaia. Opposite Railway slab is a big boulder, the Flying arete on this gives a highball when clean, Physical Graffiti E4 6b.

r-man - Have PM'd you some other info.

[dave]

i've only been to black rocks once, and the impression I got is that you'd get far more out of a day doind routes there rather than bouldering.

[r-man]

does anyone know about his non-stick vicar, below fun traverse at Black Rocks. That looks amazing.

Grimer brought this up once in the Dawes Special Moves thread. Anyone know owt?

[Bonjoy]

does anyone know about his non-stick vicar, below fun traverse at Black Rocks. That looks amazing.

Grimer brought this up once in the Dawes Special Moves thread. Anyone know owt?

Non-Stick Vicar E3 6c/7b+/c? (long thought to have shed a hold, but nearly repeated by Keenus on a very warm day recently, the right arete is not used at that grade in case you wondered...

Basically James did all the climbing without recourse to the right arete, got to the hideously sloping topout and fell/jumped off. Cold weather would have made a big difference. Cofe is hiding some good pics of this attempt somewhere.

[(woz)]

I think he hid one in climber magazine a few issues ago. Looks like a great problem/route.

[Bonjoy]

Cunning bastard, the one place he knew I wouldn't look!

[grimer]

I think he hid one in climber magazine a few issues ago. Looks like a great problem/route.
 
Cunning bastard, the one place he knew I wouldn't look!

 

There's a thing called Badmotorfinger too, about a 6c+ highbal. Unique
 
 

[r-man]

This looks good:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=84832

[grimer]

I've no idea where that is at Black Rocks.

Robin some more bouldering on th etop of the crag. Go to the far left hand end, then continue for less than 100m a\and there is a jumble of blocks there with mostly easier stuff, but 3 or 4 slightly harder ones. See here http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,8813.0.html

[Bonjoy]

This looks good:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=84832

??? Are you wearing special eye gear?
 

[r-man]

Hmm. I'm sure it looked bigger last night. 

[GCW]

Hmm. I'm sure it looked bigger last night. 

I've heard that comment before 

[Idol eyes]

Fireworks for the Blind is a good highball!!! 6A!
Plus the E4 E5 micro routes behind Gaia

[grimer]

Did you think FWFTB was a highball Pat. I just did it on a shunt, and it seemed horrific, very insecure and with a terrible landing. Did you test the landing?

[Jaspersharpe]

Perhaps that was what the "!!!!" were about?

[Idol eyes]

Err! found FWFTB straight foward, did it OS, nea pads mid 90's. It is an E4??? its a bit green though, no?

[grimer]

Greener than the envy in your green eyed idol's eyes.

Thanks for that Pat. On a shunt it seemed E5, but I'll take your opionion over that

[tallsop]

did Badmotorfinger at start of summer, yeah, prob is font 6c+ but wouldnt call it a boulder problem.  pretty shit landin.