[r-man]

Dawes fireball - right right left left left and hold down punch...

So anyway, I'd love to know about Dawes special moves, things like that 6 inch dyno in Wales. People must have seen him do various outrageous things on boulders over the years. Things that don't really get recorded, but would be fun to try (or imagine)... no handed stuff, hopping, backwards, elbow drops, suplexes etc...

[Falling Down]

I have some slides somewhere of a cold day at Froggat when he did DR one handed for the first time - I got a tiny photo published in Rock 'n Ice that earned me more $$ than a cover shot for High... :?

Anyway the real point of the post was that on that day he was dicking around on Joe's slab and did something silly/interesting (delete as appropriate)... jump on to the lip from the boulder at the r.h end and then run along the lip R to L to Joe's arete and then finish up that no handed.. needless to say no one else attempted it/couldn't be bothered with something so daft.  

You can try it next time you are there R-Man  

[r-man]

Yes... I'm not sure how many of these I will actually be trying...   I get the feeling there's going to be a lot of potential for messy disaster with many of them...

I'll certainly look at it next time I'm there...

[fatboySlimfast]

the problem to the right of the hourglass arete, goes up from two pockets to a vague dish. Run down the slab that you normally lean against to watch your mates on it and jump, both hands have to land on  the vague dish and sloper at the same time

to the right of the climber here in the shadow from th ebig boulder

[grimer]

does anyone know about his non-stick vicar, below fun traverse at Black Rocks. That looks amazing.

I think there might be something about it missing a hold, but I've always had a theory when you hear reports about things like this by him or nadin or Woodward or John Allen, that they would have done it anyway, hold or no hold.

[r-man]

Knew I remembered reading something on ukc... just found it:

I was climbing on the lone boulder once (below Tower Face, Stanage) and he turned up with some mates. He said he wasn't climbing as he had a shoulder injury, but soon got bored and started running up the slabby boulder after 'squeaking' his big white trainers! Once he could run up it, I assume he thought the logical progression was to omit another limb, so he started hopping up it. Boy was he determined. He kept getting higher and higher and flying off backwards from near the top, but kept landing ok. Eventually he did it and then spent the next 1/2 hour getting the others at the boulder to give it a go!

[r-man]

the problem to the right of the hourglass arete, goes up from two pockets to a vague dish. Run down the slab that you normally lean against to watch your mates on it and jump, both hands have to land on  the vague dish and sloper at the same time

to the right of the climber here in the shadow from th ebig boulder

I had a look at this recently. I'm confused. There's nothing here that I would call a slab. There's a shoulder-height boulder with a slightly sloping flat top. From this, you could easily jump onto the top of the hourglass boulder. Did Johnny jump from here?

_____


Anymore for anymore?

-What's that boulder he runs up in Hard Grit?
-What was that thing at Gardoms? Wasn't there talk of some huge jump a couple of years ago?

[Bonjoy]

What was that thing at Gardoms? Wasn't there talk of some huge jump a couple of years ago?

The only thing I can think of at Gardom's that you might be meaning is on the big roof where Spanish Fly is. Very 'concept' and best suited to a basketball player physique. On the south side of the overhang is a good handsize pocket near the lip. To gain it would require a long technical sprint across boulders and a huge Big Air style jump. The rest of the line looks E6/7ish.

[Stubbs]

-What's that boulder he runs up in Hard Grit?

The one in hard grit is just the easy side of the pebble isn't it - it's even in Ru's guide.

[unclesomebody]

What was that thing at Gardoms? Wasn't there talk of some huge jump a couple of years ago?

The only thing I can think of at Gardom's that you might be meaning is on the big roof where Spanish Fly is. Very 'concept' and best suited to a basketball player physique. On the south side of the overhang is a good handsize pocket near the lip. To gain it would require a long technical sprint across boulders and a huge Big Air style jump. The rest of the line looks E6/7ish.

sounds amazing.

[r-man]

Bonjoy, that sounds awesome. I don't think it's what I was talking about though - I remember there being rumours that Dawes had leaped some big gap. Or something. I think it might have been in the ukbouldering new problems database, way back when. But I could be getting mixed up.

Stubbs - the no-handed thing on the Pebble goes left to right, whereas Dawes runs right to left, doesn't he? Haven't watched it for ages though, so again, I could be totally wrong.

[Johnny Brown]

I think you may be getting confused with the gap jump to pocket at Black rocks, on the left side of the prow below prom traverse. There are pics on his website/.

[(woz)]

-What was that thing at Gardoms? Wasn't there talk of some huge jump a couple of years ago?

I remember this one. It was on an on line update to the Rockfax peak guide (also mentioning rock hard bishop). I think it was over a gap at the North end boulders, up around that 7b+ sit start arete. It is a very long way.

[Somebody's Fool]

The thing Bonjoy is blethering on about is total death.  Missing the pocket would result in you not touching down for a further 25-30ft down the rocky hillside.  If you were 'lucky' enough to catch it there would still be an outrageous move to do with jackie-anal for your feet.  Futuristic to say the least.

I think the nature of the move would result in one of the boldest things going.  That's not to say that El Mocho, ably spotted by Klem, won't do it this weekend though...

[AndiT]

He was at the Roaches one time and was showing us some crazy shit and talking some too.

Notably, Joes Arete, one handed, but you need to start on ana adjacent boulder jump down, then up to start, which seemed to make no difference, but it was essential!

Harder was one on the two big pockets to the left of Joes Arete. Hold these, and place your feet (in big baggy white trainers if you desire) on the polished sloper beneath. Now do a 360 and land in the same place. It's nails. He kept falling off and crumpling into the ground, it looked so painful and he looked so wounded each time but kept at it.

The third thing was when we were trying to do Nadins traverse but keep really low through the middle section. We soon gave up on this and then it was a matter of simply trying to hold a position on this section of rock. Johnny said this was what he was into now, more than moving on rock, just holding positions. I thought this was futuristic, imagine the guidebooks of te future with just positions to hold listed in them, quality.

He is, and always will be a legend in my eyes. Johnny, Johnny, Johnny

[Fiend]

Harder was one on the two big pockets to the left of Joes Arete. Hold these, and place your feet (in big baggy white trainers if you desire) on the polished sloper beneath. Now do a 360 and land in the same place. It's nails. He kept falling off and crumpling into the ground, it looked so painful and he looked so wounded each time but kept at it.

Quality move, love it!

[r-man]

Cheers Andi, brilliant! That's exactly the sort of thing I was hoping to hear about. Did Johnny manage the 360 in the end?

[AndiT]

Did Johnny manage the 360 in the end?

No, he said he was a few years off doing it yet. Mind you, I saw some chunky bugger with a strong Bradford accent walking down the steps a few weeks later chuntering something about having done it that day..... And then to top it all off some Aussies did it second go last weekend by headtorch.....

Back to reality, no he didn't latch it, nor did any of us. I know that many years ago a guy died doing the easy problem up those pockets when he fell and smashed his head on the block behind. This was in the back of my mind.

[Idol eyes]

Non Stick Vicar, a really hard, three star high ball. gave this a lot of time and failed. needs minus temps...