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any shorties done stall? (Read 9470 times)

Aussiegav

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any shorties done stall?
August 27, 2006, 09:12:04 am
is this a morpho problem??
just could not get my feet on to the arete.
did the fink which was alot easier than stall. hence my thoughts being a morpho prob??

Ru

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#1 Re: any shorties done stall?
August 27, 2006, 11:52:50 am
No, not really morpho. If I remember, I had my right fooot on the good foot hold round the bottom of the arete on the right, then stood my outside left onto somthing on the arete its self, quite high, then stood upfor the good holds up and left. I used a little pebble for my left hand to stop the barn door. Might have a pic somewhere.

Aussiegav

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#2 Re: any shorties done stall?
August 27, 2006, 01:29:26 pm
then stood my outside left onto somthing on the arete its self, quite high,
thats what i couldn't get my foot onto >:(
the right ledge is too low and the footer on the bottom of the arete too high...

ferret

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#3 Re: any shorties done stall?
August 30, 2006, 12:36:05 am
lisa rands did the sitter, shes not taal.

Bonjoy

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#4 Re: any shorties done stall?
August 30, 2006, 09:21:43 am
I'm not short, but still would agree that the Fink is easier.

John Cooke

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#5 Re: any shorties done stall?
September 01, 2006, 10:14:16 am
Think i did it with similar feet as Ru suggested with my right hand starting by pinching the arete, i then came over with my left hand onto the arete to cup it and i put a right heel on to move my right hand again to come over my left, i remember there being a real sharp pebble or seem that really bites. I then brought my left foot up and was able to reach for the good holds. Not sure what your idea of short is but I'm 5'9" so not exactly tall.

Fiend

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#6 Re: any shorties done stall?
September 06, 2006, 11:25:00 am
Don't think it's a height thing as I could manage it, maybe a flexibility thing getting your foot up??

Definitely a conditions thing though, the arete "holds" have that essential grit friction aspect...

Johnny Brown

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#7 Re: any shorties done stall?
September 06, 2006, 12:59:52 pm
Its a good point - Stall is never a pushover, especially in summer.

Houdini

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#8 Re: any shorties done stall?
September 06, 2006, 08:16:04 pm
This problem is getting fascinating.  Never heard of it.  Has anyone got a pic they can post so I can work out why people of little height can't do it.  JB?

(Some drunk kraut wastrel called me a Lilliputana t'other month.)

dave

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#9 Re: any shorties done stall?
September 06, 2006, 09:32:49 pm
basically its just a layback arete that doesn't really come down to the ground. theres a good foothold at the base of the arete that if you're reasonably tallish and flexible you can go straight onto, if you're short its hard to get started i guess.

Falling Down

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#10 Re: any shorties done stall?
September 06, 2006, 11:36:00 pm
I'm surprised no one has mentioned the Dawes yet... after all he did the 1st ascent of the whole route (there's a top bit thats probably not had many ascents).

Class problem, one of my faves..

Johnny Brown

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#11 Re: any shorties done stall?
September 07, 2006, 10:14:41 am
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This problem is getting fascinating.  Never heard of it.  Has anyone got a pic they can post so I can work out why people of little height can't do it.  JB?

Voila.



I don't actually believe its harder for shorties at all. Its always struck me (sitter particularly) as summat that would be horribly bunched for the likes of Dave 'Shaq' Parry.

Stubbs

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#12 Re: any shorties done stall?
September 07, 2006, 10:19:50 am
I don't actually believe its harder for shorties at all. Its always struck me (sitter particularly) as summat that would be horribly bunched for the likes of Dave 'Shaq' Parry.

I think going for the next hold (the next move in the picture) is obviously easier if you are tall, i tried it with my foot in the same position as in the picture and couldn't reach the hold.  Great problem though, it looks about v2 until you pull on.

Houdini

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#13 Re: any shorties done stall?
September 07, 2006, 10:21:47 am
Can it be Chevalled?  It looks on.  

(Wicked shot by the way.) 

Are these the kind of 3/4 long-short things you hate, tc?

Pantontino

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#14 Re: any shorties done stall?
September 07, 2006, 01:50:42 pm
Excellent photo JB, but I guess you know that already.

cofe

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#15 Re: any shorties done stall?
September 07, 2006, 02:55:55 pm
Excellent photo JB, but I guess you know that already.

like he needs bigging up anymore!?!?

can't believe this thread is still on going. you people need to guppy more. this isn't hard for the short, its technical. there's a big hold all the way up it.

Johnny Brown

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#16 Re: any shorties done stall?
September 07, 2006, 07:12:08 pm
Quote
Excellent photo JB, but I guess you know that already.

Yeah, I'm particularly proud of leaving just enough room for the word 'Climber' across the top...

Quote
can't believe this thread is still on going. you people need to guppy more. this isn't hard for the short, its technical. there's a big hold all the way up it.

Wise words indeed. As Clm once said, "No holds on Archangel? What are you talking about? Its the biggest hold on the fuckin crag!"

Jim

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#17 Re: any shorties done stall?
September 07, 2006, 08:13:32 pm
now I can't believe your bigging Clm up, as if his head isn't already big enough  ;D

Johnny Brown

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#18 Re: any shorties done stall?
September 08, 2006, 09:38:51 am
 :thumbsup:

Eddies

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#19 Re: any shorties done stall?
October 26, 2006, 12:14:13 pm
Must be harder for shorties as I start with right hand fairly high on the arete/fingers on pebbles on the right/hand side.
If you cant reach them then i would have thought it would be a very hard start, need good friction and a brush!

Johnny Brown

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#20 Re: any shorties done stall?
October 26, 2006, 12:46:08 pm
Crazy talk - I can't reach that bit from the ground. As Cofe said, there's a big hold all the way up if only you've the wit to use it.
The sitter is tough though...

Rice Boy

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#21 Re: any shorties done stall?
October 26, 2006, 01:12:14 pm
Blatently loads of ways to do it.

I physically can't climb aretes and so ended up lanking right hand high (from ground) undercutting seem down and left, right foot on good smear and more or less dynoing for the top to avoid the barndoor or arete climbing bit. Felt soft like this and was a proper good move. 

However, given I'm keen to try the sitter I think I'll have to go back to the drawing board.

Eddies

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#22 Re: any shorties done stall?
October 27, 2006, 12:21:11 pm
I was up there straight from work last night and did it for the first time, noticed someones been trying the sitter! Bloody ticks all over the poor thing. looks a right state.

Are the jugs on the face in? I didnt use them but they where chalked up !!

Rice Boy

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#23 Re: any shorties done stall?
October 27, 2006, 12:30:07 pm
Ain't me guvner!

Jugs on the face? The high ones? Cos the hard bit's over by then unless of course you using my lankey dyno beta.

Eddies

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#24 Re: any shorties done stall?
October 30, 2006, 12:10:07 pm
Yeh the high ones. blatantly been used lots but like you say Rice-Boy, the funs pretty much over my then!
maybe there part of a seperate problem not in my book?
Does anyone use these jugs? Spose its not an Arete prob if you do!

 

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