[Aussiegav]

is this a morpho problem??
just could not get my feet on to the arete.
did the fink which was alot easier than stall. hence my thoughts being a morpho prob??

[Ru]

No, not really morpho. If I remember, I had my right fooot on the good foot hold round the bottom of the arete on the right, then stood my outside left onto somthing on the arete its self, quite high, then stood upfor the good holds up and left. I used a little pebble for my left hand to stop the barn door. Might have a pic somewhere.

[Aussiegav]

then stood my outside left onto somthing on the arete its self, quite high,

thats what i couldn't get my foot onto
the right ledge is too low and the footer on the bottom of the arete too high...

[ferret]

lisa rands did the sitter, shes not taal.

[Bonjoy]

I'm not short, but still would agree that the Fink is easier.

[John Cooke]

Think i did it with similar feet as Ru suggested with my right hand starting by pinching the arete, i then came over with my left hand onto the arete to cup it and i put a right heel on to move my right hand again to come over my left, i remember there being a real sharp pebble or seem that really bites. I then brought my left foot up and was able to reach for the good holds. Not sure what your idea of short is but I'm 5'9" so not exactly tall.

[Fiend]

Don't think it's a height thing as I could manage it, maybe a flexibility thing getting your foot up??

Definitely a conditions thing though, the arete "holds" have that essential grit friction aspect...

[Johnny Brown]

Its a good point - Stall is never a pushover, especially in summer.

[Houdini]

This problem is getting fascinating.  Never heard of it.  Has anyone got a pic they can post so I can work out why people of little height can't do it.  JB?

(Some drunk kraut wastrel called me a Lilliputana t'other month.)

[dave]

basically its just a layback arete that doesn't really come down to the ground. theres a good foothold at the base of the arete that if you're reasonably tallish and flexible you can go straight onto, if you're short its hard to get started i guess.

[Falling Down]

I'm surprised no one has mentioned the Dawes yet... after all he did the 1st ascent of the whole route (there's a top bit thats probably not had many ascents).

Class problem, one of my faves..

[Johnny Brown]

This problem is getting fascinating.  Never heard of it.  Has anyone got a pic they can post so I can work out why people of little height can't do it.  JB?

Voila.



I don't actually believe its harder for shorties at all. Its always struck me (sitter particularly) as summat that would be horribly bunched for the likes of Dave 'Shaq' Parry.

[Stubbs]

I don't actually believe its harder for shorties at all. Its always struck me (sitter particularly) as summat that would be horribly bunched for the likes of Dave 'Shaq' Parry.

I think going for the next hold (the next move in the picture) is obviously easier if you are tall, i tried it with my foot in the same position as in the picture and couldn't reach the hold.  Great problem though, it looks about v2 until you pull on.

[Houdini]

Can it be Chevalled?  It looks on.  

(Wicked shot by the way.) 

Are these the kind of 3/4 long-short things you hate, tc?

[Pantontino]

Excellent photo JB, but I guess you know that already.

[cofe]

Excellent photo JB, but I guess you know that already.

like he needs bigging up anymore!?!?

can't believe this thread is still on going. you people need to guppy more. this isn't hard for the short, its technical. there's a big hold all the way up it.

[Johnny Brown]

Excellent photo JB, but I guess you know that already.

Yeah, I'm particularly proud of leaving just enough room for the word 'Climber' across the top...

can't believe this thread is still on going. you people need to guppy more. this isn't hard for the short, its technical. there's a big hold all the way up it.

Wise words indeed. As Clm once said, "No holds on Archangel? What are you talking about? Its the biggest hold on the fuckin crag!"

[Jim]

now I can't believe your bigging Clm up, as if his head isn't already big enough 

[Johnny Brown]

 

[Eddies]

Must be harder for shorties as I start with right hand fairly high on the arete/fingers on pebbles on the right/hand side.
If you cant reach them then i would have thought it would be a very hard start, need good friction and a brush!

[Johnny Brown]

Crazy talk - I can't reach that bit from the ground. As Cofe said, there's a big hold all the way up if only you've the wit to use it.
The sitter is tough though...

[Rice Boy]

Blatently loads of ways to do it.

I physically can't climb aretes and so ended up lanking right hand high (from ground) undercutting seem down and left, right foot on good smear and more or less dynoing for the top to avoid the barndoor or arete climbing bit. Felt soft like this and was a proper good move. 

However, given I'm keen to try the sitter I think I'll have to go back to the drawing board.

[Eddies]

I was up there straight from work last night and did it for the first time, noticed someones been trying the sitter! Bloody ticks all over the poor thing. looks a right state.

Are the jugs on the face in? I didnt use them but they where chalked up !!

[Rice Boy]

Ain't me guvner!

Jugs on the face? The high ones? Cos the hard bit's over by then unless of course you using my lankey dyno beta.

[Eddies]

Yeh the high ones. blatantly been used lots but like you say Rice-Boy, the funs pretty much over my then!
maybe there part of a seperate problem not in my book?
Does anyone use these jugs? Spose its not an Arete prob if you do!

[Bonjoy]

 Was on this on Sunday and figured a great sequence that hasn't been mentioned so far. Pull on with RH on pebbly bit and left foot (!) on the foothold round on the right, palm down with left hand just above the poor undercut to get right foot onto the best foothold on the arete, walk hands casually up the arete with the flagging left foot curtailing the barndoor. Not too strenuous so links in well to the sitter.
 If short or coming in from the sitter you have to work hands up the arete with RF on hold round corner and LF heel-hooking the start flake, then do a precarious foot swap whilst holding a LH undercut/sidepull just above the start flake.
 This beta is gold-dust. Yes I do accept cheques

 Also did The Fink Sitter which seemed harder (two power screams) than Stall sitter. Hell of a sandbag at 7b!! Fin sitter - 6B sit moves into an admittedly hard 6C = 7B. Fink sitter - 7A+/7B sit moves into an admittedly soft 7A+ = 7B. If I was American i might say 'go figure'.

[r-man]

If I was American i might say 'go figure'.

Is that some sort of Action Man?

[dave]

the rule of thumb is if it takes banks more than three goes then its 7c+.

[Ru]

Fink Sitter gets the same as the Fin sitter in the guide cos when I did them I thought they were the same grade and no one else had done the Fink sitter to comment.  Or at least if they had done it they didn't comment. And I thought Stall sitter was harder. So there. Having said that I didn't consider your grade logic as set out above that's most convincing. It's not the first grade I got wrong in that book, and I'm betting it's not the last.

[Bonjoy]

 Hey Ru you did a sterling job with the guide. There are bound to be anomalies and i'm bound to point any out that I find. Getting every grade spot on for everyone is a long way beyond the realms of possibility. My opinions on the grades of things changes over time anyway. At the moment i'd give one hard 7a+ and the other 7b+, but I might change my mind next time I go. Regards Stall Sitter, my beta is so good it's bound to feel pretty ok  .

[Ru]

 Sorry Bonjoy, having re-read my post it sounded a bit arsey, but it wasn't supposed to be. It was supposed to sound faux-arsey in a jokey sort of way. 

[Johnny Brown]

Given your recent high quality posting, I read it as being faux-arsey, though I wasn't aware that was the correct term.

[Bonjoy]

Ah but perhaps I was being faux-placatory. Fighting faux-fire with faux-fire, or not...

[dave]

you're just a pair of maux-fauxs.