UKBouldering.com

any shorties done stall? (Read 9471 times)

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9945
  • Karma: +561/-9
#25 Re: any shorties done stall?
February 09, 2007, 02:54:17 pm
 Was on this on Sunday and figured a great sequence that hasn't been mentioned so far. Pull on with RH on pebbly bit and left foot (!) on the foothold round on the right, palm down with left hand just above the poor undercut to get right foot onto the best foothold on the arete, walk hands casually up the arete with the flagging left foot curtailing the barndoor. Not too strenuous so links in well to the sitter.
 If short or coming in from the sitter you have to work hands up the arete with RF on hold round corner and LF heel-hooking the start flake, then do a precarious foot swap whilst holding a LH undercut/sidepull just above the start flake.
 This beta is gold-dust. Yes I do accept cheques

 Also did The Fink Sitter which seemed harder (two power screams) than Stall sitter. Hell of a sandbag at 7b!! Fin sitter - 6B sit moves into an admittedly hard 6C = 7B. Fink sitter - 7A+/7B sit moves into an admittedly soft 7A+ = 7B. If I was American i might say 'go figure'. :-\
« Last Edit: February 09, 2007, 03:01:57 pm by Bonjoy »

r-man

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Glory lurks beneath the moss
  • Posts: 5030
  • Karma: +193/-3
    • LANCASHIRE BOULDERING GUIDEBOOK
#26 Re: any shorties done stall?
February 09, 2007, 03:31:11 pm
If I was American i might say 'go figure'. :-\

Is that some sort of Action Man?

dave

  • Guest
#27 Re: any shorties done stall?
February 09, 2007, 05:03:30 pm
the rule of thumb is if it takes banks more than three goes then its 7c+.

Ru

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1973
  • Karma: +120/-0
#28 Re: any shorties done stall?
February 09, 2007, 05:12:43 pm
Fink Sitter gets the same as the Fin sitter in the guide cos when I did them I thought they were the same grade and no one else had done the Fink sitter to comment.  Or at least if they had done it they didn't comment. And I thought Stall sitter was harder. So there. Having said that I didn't consider your grade logic as set out above that's most convincing. It's not the first grade I got wrong in that book, and I'm betting it's not the last.

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9945
  • Karma: +561/-9
#29 Re: any shorties done stall?
February 10, 2007, 11:24:04 am
 Hey Ru you did a sterling job with the guide. There are bound to be anomalies and i'm bound to point any out that I find. Getting every grade spot on for everyone is a long way beyond the realms of possibility. My opinions on the grades of things changes over time anyway. At the moment i'd give one hard 7a+ and the other 7b+, but I might change my mind next time I go. Regards Stall Sitter, my beta is so good it's bound to feel pretty ok  ;D.

Ru

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1973
  • Karma: +120/-0
#30 Re: any shorties done stall?
February 10, 2007, 01:24:13 pm
 Sorry Bonjoy, having re-read my post it sounded a bit arsey, but it wasn't supposed to be. It was supposed to sound faux-arsey in a jokey sort of way.  :oops:

Johnny Brown

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 11481
  • Karma: +703/-22
#31 Re: any shorties done stall?
February 10, 2007, 07:14:39 pm
Given your recent high quality posting, I read it as being faux-arsey, though I wasn't aware that was the correct term.

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9945
  • Karma: +561/-9
#32 Re: any shorties done stall?
February 10, 2007, 07:28:42 pm
Ah but perhaps I was being faux-placatory. Fighting faux-fire with faux-fire, or not...

dave

  • Guest
#33 Re: any shorties done stall?
February 10, 2007, 09:26:14 pm
you're just a pair of maux-fauxs.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal