[Johnny Brown]

Word. Directions from Jim's house:
M56 to Knutsford/Altrincham junction, A556 past kunts & northwich to sandiway (try not to be distracted by the bakery). Turn left at Sandiway by the big shell garage for A49 Whitchurch. Go round the whitchurch bypass, get on the shrewsbury road, still A49. Grinshill is on the left after some miles, 10 maybe?

I'll email you a rough map of the probs tonight.

[grimer]

Was at Nesscliffe again last night and we found a wedding ring near the bouldering on the lower bit near Berlin wall. We left it in the pub at the bottom if anyone you know has lost one.

[Johnny Brown]

Am I to take from this what you are now a fully initiated 'Altrincham All-star'?? What did you ddo last night? Good conditions I imagine?

[grimer]

I'm more of a mini-moon. I'm nothing unless the light shines on me.

Did some stuff in the big quarry. A fun little crack on the left, top roped an E3 6a groove on the very left (Nick's guide says often soloed. Fucking glad I wasn't soloing that, or I would have been soiling that). Tried My Snorkel just right, It gets E6 6c, but the hard move is by a peg, so is safe. Seems very doable. Then had a prolonged scuffle up The Pit and the Pendulum. "The best corner-crack in England" according to my partner. Fuck, it really is 150 of solid climbing, a dishearteningly long pitch. Battling with detoriorating rock, nests, dried soil, cobwebs. At one point i breathed in a lungful of bat dust. I kept some of my phlegm in case i develop some arcane lung cancer in years to come. The pathologist may be interested in it.

Can't wait to go back. You have done routes there, Johnny, haven't you?

[Johnny Brown]

In the dim and distant past. It was far too hot on Saturday, we were delirious. Clm made the same comments about the crack and groove. Effort on The Pit, did you lead? How many runners? Rests? Feel like the big man at the top?

We were bigging it up in the pub after getting it back...
Steady Neil (who didn't go), 'I don't mind, I went to kilnsey',
Us:'Nesscliffe is more impressive.'
Neil guffaws with laughter.
We don't.
'Oh, you're serious?'

[grimer]

Yeah, led The Pit. There is rests, but you still get a full, prolonged body pump. Placed a lot of runners in the first half, which meant that I placed about 3 in the second half.

Did some bouldering too, but the spirit had left the body at that point. I don't think the bouldering would be able to take a lot of hammering there. The rock is a bit soft.

Did CLM say the groove was meaty? That's interesting. It looks a bit like a highball only.

[Jim]

don't listen to Clm, he knows nothing about climbing!

[andy popp]

Us:'Nesscliffe is more impressive.'
Neil guffaws with laughter.
We don't.
'Oh, you're serious?'

Too right!

[Jim]

Recon will have a trip there tomorrow.
Hit me with those emails word!

[andy popp]

Johnny, in a rather more helpful vein than the last post, I've done some of the routes, particularly Full Sun, Leaf Storm and Berlin Wall amongst the harder ones. All absolutely brillant but for me, Berlin Wall, depite lacking the soaring grandeur of the big aretes and corners, is the essential tick. Great climbing on a beautiful sheet of rock. Gets E7/8 in the new guide but certainly worth the 7. I know your preference for good style so it might be worth knowing I managed this ground up back in 1989 (I think). Might be worth getting someone else to check the pegs (thankfully not Dixon home made specials) and brush any cobwebs off. Get to it!

[andy popp]

My last post, not Jim's

[Johnny Brown]

it might be worth knowing I managed this ground up back in 1989

You legend! I'm very impressed.
Following saturday's somewhat embarrassing attempts on the V4 traverse across the bottom I fear I may have to camp at Pex for a year before attempting the same. I think Nige thought my look of dismay when I realised that I wasn't going to do it was worth the drive on its own... well after 12 years, mostly in Sheffield, since my last attempt, I had entertained the thought I might cruise it.

[andy popp]

I'm somewhat embarassed now! My comments really were only meant as encouragement along the lines of if I can do it etc. You really should give it a go. A couple of mats would obviously ease getting to the first peg. Thinking about it it was probably 90 rather than 89. In the meantime, all you born again Marches sandstone fans really should consider making it to Helsby as well - its well brown (and black and luminous green, especially the latter). There was a mini boom a few weeks back with four new routes in three days, including a particularly fine and tricky little hanging arete. Anyone interested PM me

[clm]

That E3 groove would feel well stiff for a solo.  Did you find the crux at the top grimer?  I was right on tippy toes, and as Jim claims i am "morpho" (a whole 5 11 and a bit.  I top roped it to and then had to "redtoprope" it.

(its a bit high for you jim)

[Percy B]

Me and the Weasel had a few good Nesscliffe sesions last year, and will probably head back for more before too long. We had a few good days there when the locals had been cleaning the harder routes up, so holds were clean and chalked, and we got some good beta on crucial gear, etc... I personally found it pretty full on - long sustained pitches with some 'interesting' rock and gear, but awesome all the same. Great long pitches. The Weasel was particularly good value, on-sighting E5's and E6's like they were going out of fashion (which was nice as I had the comfort of a top rope on some pretty harrowing ground). The big E6 corner in the first big main quarry on the right stands out as something I'm so glad I had the benefit of the blunt end on. The Weasles constant stream of expletives was awesome, especially once he got commited and the rain started! If you are climbing E3/4 or harder and want more good long single pitch routes at your grade than you can shake a shitty stick at, get down there. The route that was on on cover of Climber a year or so ago is great fun, although spicy at 'steady E7' (fantastic coach bolt in a break half way up which sticks out about 4 inches from the sand that holds it in...!!!) I haven't bouldered there yet, but will go and sample before to much longer as soon as my guide arrives from those nice folks at V12.

[grimer]

Yeah probably was the crux near the top. I top roped it too. I think it is probably worth mentioning this as it is a bit naughty, especially considering how friendly it looks from the ground.

[GCW]

Slightly  as it's Worcestershire.  Anyone ever been to The Hermitage (Southstone Rock)?

I went there once about 9 years ago, on a wet day for a recce.  Strange place.  Sinister woods.  Sinister rock formations.  Sinister moss and lichen.  I shat em and walked off fairly quick.  Had the most bizarre feeling of being un-nerved.   
Totally irrational.  Maybe I shouldn't have gone on my own.   

[dontfollowme]

I live in Worcestershire and considered this venue but the following comment put me off a bit

 

Thought I'd take a look as I don't live too far away and fancied something local as an alternative to walls. So today I took the mutt for a strole to this crag. Well I've limited climbing experience but even I could see that this was a pile of c**p. I don't even know why it's listed on this site, okay it's a rock but that's it. Even if the vegetation is cleared you'd need a severe jet-wash to get me even touching the rock. Judging by the stuff left around, the only people who frequent this place just want somewhere out of the way for their sex, drugs and alcohol. I'll never subject me or my dog to this tip again!
crezzer - 22/09/2006

I might go for a look to if there is bouldering potential.

[GCW]

It was crap in 1997/8.  It was more the sudden feeling of panic associated with it.  I wouldn't go back.  I doubt there would be much bouldering potential either.
Plus they make you pay a quid for the guide!!!!  http://www.westmidlandsrock.co.uk/downloads_1995.htmand there were only 11 routes in 1995   

[GCW]

Flicking through the old guide it says:

Character
It is difficult to adequately describe the character of this crag, save to say that the atmosphere and ambience here are unique.  For many, including the author, it is a rather frightening  and inhospitable place- rumours that the site is used for witchcraft are entirely plausable.

Glad it wasn't just me 

[dontfollowme]

It was crap in 1997/8.  It was more the sudden feeling of panic associated with it.  I wouldn't go back.  I doubt there would be much bouldering potential either.
Plus they make you pay a quid for the guide!!!!  http://www.westmidlandsrock.co.uk/downloads_1995.htmand there were only 11 routes in 1995   

I'll skip it then. Have you been to Ipkins rock?

[GCW]

Ippikins?  Some good routes on good rock..... when clean.  Most of the popular routes seemed OK.  Gear isn't plentiful, but sufficient, some pegs.  Stuff there is fingery and strenuous.  Live Evil and White Heat are neat.  Access was a bit delicate when I went (but it is years ago).  Worth a look though.  Pontesford is OK for lower grade routes, again sparse on gear.

[notbadforafatlad]

Has anyone done Nonsense (Nuance groove all the way) at Nesscliffe? Any comment about quality / grade. One of the best routes at Nesscliffe to my mind.

[grimer]

no, although fancied a go at nuance next time i go. What's it like?

[notbadforafatlad]

Nuance is also superb. It's got everything that you would want from a route at Nesscliffe; it's visually inspiring, with quality moves on rock and gear that you cannot be 100% confident in. I think that Nuance is easier if you are tall, but still memorable. It's been superceded a little as the Nuance arete has also been led now at E6. I've heard it's good also, but I haven't tried it.
 Trouble in Toytown is also excellent and Marlene Corner is surprisingly good.